IamScotticus

185/65-70/R13 inch gives more sidewall for flex and impact when inflated at 20psi. Like that bike you had with 2" balloon tires. They may not look sporty, but in a 1200 pound car prone to skip around, you need the grip and your back needs the cushion. On a perfectly smooth race track, it may be something else. Many like to run 205 in the rear. To keep tire searching simple, sometimes tis easier to search these sites for 1985 Mazda RX7. Ive been keeping a list of rubber mentioned on forums. Some of these mentions may be for 15". Pirelli Cinturato CN36 https://www.pirelli.com/tyres/en-ww/car/collection/product/cinturato-cn-36 Kumho Solus TA11 https://www.kumhotireusa.com/us/global/tire/view.do?returnType=L&menuCd=MN000162&langCd=LN000004&ord=0001-0002-0001-0001&idcate=MC000112&iditem=50 Michelin 155 HR 13 https://www.michelinman.com/classic/tires/michelin-xas https://www.michelinman.com/classic/tires/michelin-xas-ff https://www.michelinman.com/classic/tires/michelin-xdx-b https://www.michelinman.com/classic/tires/michelin-zx Uniroyal Rain Expert (well recommended for street) 13" NA Nitto NT05 Nankangs Toyo Proxes R888R Avon CR322 Avon ZZR (softest compound) Bridgestone 720 Notes on Formula Ford: Dunlop Racing "Formula Ford" F: 135/545 R13 CR82 R: 165/580 R13 CR82 https://hptyres.com/product/135-545-13-dunlop-historic-formula-ford-race-tyre/ On my car, but too old now. I would get more If I could find them Yokohama HPT (High Performance Tire) S-707 185/70R13 86T Diameter 23.2" Width 7.28" 589mm I tend to continue to update these lists after posting Personal recommendation, find Kumho Solus TA11 for under $100 and get a set. If rims are alloy, take to a specialist who wont break your wheels on the changing machine. If you have Ford PCD, not to worry, lots of replacement options. DeDion should be Ford.

185/65-70/R13 inch gives more sidewall for flex and impact when inflated at 20psi. Like that bike you had with 2" balloon tires. They may not look sporty, but in a 1200 pound car prone to skip around, you need the grip and your back needs the cushion. On a perfectly smooth race track, it may be something else.

You can be annoying and lag several car lengths behind. If Bubba pulls up you have room to start rolling before he does. being that far back is so annoying, he won't forget you're there.

So true plodding along at everyone's speed is dangerous. the only places a 7 is seen is out front or over five car lengths behind. everywhere else is your blind spot zone.

Hello. Ive been wondering the same thing. Has anyone ever seen or have the instructions given with the early sevens that were written in reverse order? Someone on L7C is asking.. https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forum/chitchat/self-build-disassemby-instructions-myth-or-fact

Sheesh...I was in high school

Im still wanting the info, as I am very tempted to go aluminum from my brass.

I see a label on the side (hint)

I have worked in a business in which I witnessed many (understatement) classic cars found by scouts and brokers working for extremely wealthy foreign people who are buying up and adding to their personal collections or sell or give as wedding gifts. Its nothing for the agent to bid and secure and dump if the buyer in another time zone later rejects the car when he has time to look at his daily toy shopping list.

Thanks for that. The main parts just mght be the same. Amazing that this type pump was used by just about all manufacturers in the 1930s to early 60s. The 80mm orange diaphragm has an inscription.. "Replace with AC 1524905 only" Need that diaphragm spring and the plunger rod seals. This looks closer: https://www.smallfordspares.co.uk/products/e93a-9349-fuel-pump-repair-kit-export-model-e36-z-1

A curved radiator? Cool, but why?

Hi Anyone know who would have the rebuild kit for the older Kent glass bowl fuel pump? Anyone know the part number for this pump?

Bro, your 7s looking good.

I was going to ask what car that is off of?

Hi Wayne. Nice you got a BDA. Even better if its on 711M or AX block.. Can't wait to see pictures. Please start a build page. Although its built, the refresh is likely going to be interesting. You didn't say if itwas driven by son?

Good fit. is there an item number? Manufacturer?

I wish those new Smiths Chronometrics were reasonable.

From Haynes # 139 That doesn't look too good. I will work on it

I hope this helps. Its a really old version of the catalog. They're probably still using it. The PDF attachment is all six pages of the catalog section. DaveBeanRev0297.pdf

What many "essential" (law enforcement) employees who are required to report to duty, during a lapse of funding, learned then was they got all the backpay even if they were AWOL during the lapse. This isn't a good time to have a payment problem for Border Patrol and Customs while the southern border is getting bum rushed. The cattle call is loud and clear. Come and get fed.

Really wanting to be rid of the speedo cable, drive gears, adapters, etc. So the VDO must go. There are some speedos that work with a variety of inputs, hall effect, proximity, GPS, etc. Leaning towards Racetech because, I like green. It seems to be a decent unit with options. But Im not finding much technical info available for it. Wanting combo sub guages to have an extra hole for an AFR. Only downside to Racetech is I don't see an electric oil pressure guage in the set, just tube type. If that is a negative. Still have time to shop. Any suggestions?

@61Elite3THAT is a fine 7

The removing of axles and pumpkin don't require special tools and come out without too much effort. Its the disassembling of those sub assemblies, like bearings from the shafts and changing pinion, crown gears and differentials, that require the special tools. You shouldn't have to do any breakdown for a refresh and bearing greasing. If the brake cylinders have been sitting for ten years, check those bores for rust. Have a tube of brake grease ready for the reassembly if you get lucky. Get a tube of black silicone sealant for the hub mount and back plate sealing. Theres a neat product , Quick- Glo, for rust removal and polishing. good for spot cleaning and parts like the Park brake rod. It comes in different grits and leaves a protective wax coat.

Caterham rocker switch holes are 30mm x 22mm

OK, ive seen otherwise. I think it was S1