IamScotticus

Ken at Dave Besn is a goid source for rebuild kits. 2097545802 I'm actually considering fitting an early 80s Mazda RX7 drum brake MC. I may have more new old stock availability. They may be 7/8".

You are living the whole 7 experience

Loose rivet tails in frame tubes wouldn't be heard over all the louder sounds of engine, tire noise, wind buffetting, etc. The formulas of cavity protection should have a viscous creeping property to spread and cover areas not directly applied. Even if all you did was a small shot in every 5/32 rivet hole, it should spread, if that formula has that property. I heard something about rust prevention "cubes". I didn't get enough info to get a trade name and I haven't found anything yet. The prospect of a loose solid granular substance doing the protection is interesting to me.

After paint, will you apply one of the Cavity rust inhibitiors like Fluid Film or Cosmoline? I have a long list of candidates if you're interested.

My chassis and suspension is a mess because of powdercoating. All over the thing there are areas I need to sand down and recover. It will never be done right until a full tear down is done. Paint is so easy to repair and re-apply.

I can understand why you would want a color match, for authenticity. But I doubt even Lotus paid much attention to the shades of grey the chassis were painted, as long as it was a shade that would reveal cracks. I wouldn't be surprised if all the various chassis builders used different shades.

can you take a sample to one of the hardware stores with a digital color matching code machine?

I'll have ask him how he gets his.

So... What did Marina Man have?

On the cylinders, they may have been increased in capacity from the standard saloon for lower pressure on a light weight car.

These shoes look like mine. Some things have to be checked to be sure, but the info is interesting. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ferodo/1511230 AUSTIN AUSTIN Maxi Hatchback (Year of Construction 04.1969 - 10.1980, 68 - 90 PS, Petrol) AUSTIN Allegro Hatchback (ADO 67) (Year of Construction 05.1973 - 10.1983, 45 - 91 PS, Petrol) AUSTIN Allegro Estate (ADO 67) (Year of Construction 08.1975 - 12.1983, 58 - 76 PS, Petrol) AUSTIN Maxi II (Year of Construction 10.1980 - 12.1982, 72 - 91 PS, Petrol) AUSTIN Allegro Saloon (Year of Construction 02.1973 - 12.1984, 56 - 69 PS, Petrol FORD FORD Escort Mk1 Saloon (AFH, ATH) (Year of Construction 01.1968 - 02.1976, 34 - 72 PS, Petrol) FORD Escort Mk2 Saloon (ATH) (Year of Construction 12.1974 - 08.1980, 45 - 48 PS, Petrol) FORD Escort Mk1 Estate (ADH) (Year of Construction 06.1968 - 02.1976, 40 - 57 PS, Petrol) FORD Cortina Mk2 Saloon (Year of Construction 10.1962 - 03.1972, 46 - 76 PS, Petrol) FORD Cortina Mk2 Coupe (Year of Construction 10.1962 - 03.1972, 46 - 140 PS, Petrol) FORD Cortina Mk2 Estate (Year of Construction 10.1962 - 03.1970, 46 - 82 PS, Petrol) 1200, Year of Construction 10.1962 - 09.1966, 1198 ccm, 46 PS 1200, Year of Construction 10.1962 - 09.1966, 1198 ccm, 48 PS 1500, Year of Construction 10.1962 - 09.1966, 1500 ccm, 58 PS 1500 GT, Year of Construction 10.1962 - 09.1966, 1500 ccm, 76 PS 1600 GT, Year of Construction 10.1967 - 03.1970, 1599 ccm, 82 PS LOTUS LOTUS Europa S1 Coupe (Year of Construction 10.1966 - 10.1970, 78 PS, Petrol) LOTUS Europa S2 Coupe (Year of Construction 05.1970 - 04.1976, 106 PS, Petrol) MORRIS MORRIS Marina Saloon (Year of Construction 04.1971 - 12.1979, 60 - 95 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Marina Coupe (Year of Construction 04.1971 - 06.1980, 57 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Marina Estate (Year of Construction 04.1971 - 10.1975, 78 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Ital Saloon (Year of Construction 07.1980 - 03.1984, 60 - 79 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Ital Estate (Year of Construction 07.1980 - 03.1984, 60 - 79 PS, Petrol) MORRIS Marina II Saloon (Year of Construction 10.1975 - 09.1978, 50 - 73 PS, Diesel, Petrol) MORRIS Marina III (Year of Construction 10.1978 - 10.1980, 57 - 106 PS, Petrol) TRIUMPH TRIUMPH 1300 Saloon (Year of Construction 01.1967 - 12.1970, 76 PS, Petrol) TRIUMPH Dolomite Saloon (Year of Construction 01.1977 - 12.1981, 59 PS, Petrol)

While on the subject of these, there are two articles you should have, as well as the Haynes manuals for Ital and Marina. The Ital Axle Debate- by Graham Skykes (Low-lying Archives) Compatibility of the Ital Axle with the British Leyland parts bin- by Ellie Boone Low-lying Nov 2017 Unfortunately, these aren't about the brakes

What a blast from the past. I spent so much time in JC Witney catalogs. So much of thst stuff looked really cheap. But I didn't care. It was there.

What are ya using for diff oil? It's interesting, Caterham has always written in the build manuals that the axles are Itals, but the narrower hub keys are Marinas', and probably the cylinders too.

Try Derek Moore at Caterham Midlands ( previously Classic Carriage) 01455 841616. They supplied the axles to Caterham back then. And there's Skip Harris "The Marina Man" marinaman@marinaman.org. He should know how to get them if anyone. I would say early TR 7 4spd shoes would work but the more I look into the TR7s axles, the more minor differences I find, so I'm not sure about that. I need them for my car too as spares. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/drive-it-like-a-race-car-1975-austin-marina-gt

That can't end well. At least he's ahead of the output end

Want a Jim Clark edition

delete

I can't make a particular recommendation, but I can make a suggestion... Some questions to ask: For what kind of storage? Temporary outdoors? For an occasional shower? In the garage between outings? In the garage for months or yesrs at a time? Your enemy is moisture. Any non breathing material should be only for temporary use. Any long term covering, or indoors cover needs to breathe. For my use, I use two low thread count bed sheets for garage storage. I have learned that the pedal box cover (if you have one) will trap enough moisture to rot out the frame it's covering over a long term, in my case, but probably not on a regular driver.

@Steve in Lititz PA I have you to thank! I didn't know I needed that part. I was wondering where the clips went

I want to understand this because I will be dealing with it myself and it's my first time hearing about it. The carrier is the plastic housing that the release bearing is set into? Yes/no? I didn't have any clearance issues sliding my release bearing on my GBT9509. Perhaps you're getting a bearing that requires the modification? Which C.R.B. is specified? You must have a pre-remote car.

Steve, My mother said I was almost named Steve... You say you like the gear shift position now? Do you have that remote shifter contraption Cat used? It's a very common solution to the short shifter turret location. I haven't seen a Xflow with a T2 that didn't have a remote shifter... All the Xflow/T9 combos I've ever seen place the shifter directly under the instrument panel tube. I believe Cat sold them this way. I am planning on using the remote with the T9. I won't have that flick shift, but the position will be correct You said Burton says to bore our your bearing? They already sell the solution for this: https://www.burtonpower.com/quaife-alloy-nose-cone-with-steel-over-tube-type-9-5-speed-gbt9509.html I have to say, with the complications of the external slave, why not do the centric slave? Also, have you considered ditching the speedo cable for a GPS speedo or other sensor activated speedo? BIN THE SPEEDO CABLE!

I'm piecing together a T9 swap as well. My 96 Cat has a mount plate installed that should ocomoddate a T9. It's the plate you should get from Cat, Arch or Red Line. You will be using the 1600's flywheel, clutch cover and throw out bearing. Get a new clutch cover, Borg & Beck CP2624/1, Get your flywheel balanced (with the cover on) and surfaced. The clutch disc is a specialty item not standard on any car, except the Nash metropolitan, possibly. It will be a 1600's seven 1/2 inch 190mm diameter with a Pinto 2.0's 1X23 spline. AP 47238 You need the reduced diamter (34mm) bearing slide from Burton or take yours to a machine shop to get it turned down to allow a 1600 release bearing to fit over it. If you have the long shaft (no jokes) V6 T9 (the one Cat used) get a 1" spacer (Burton again) that goes between the box and bell and make sure there is a cut-out in the spacer for the layshaft end cap. If using a centric clutch release, on a V6 T9 you may need a spacer for that too. Note that the threads in the engine block will be imperial and the threads in the bellhousing will probably be metric. The pilot/spigot bearing is the same and the input shaft tip on a V6 T9 may need to be cut back a small amount, I read 10mm. Deal with this before you get to the final bolting together. Get a quality input shaft spline grease. There's a specific tacky grease made for the release bearing and disc to slide on. Don't shoot any lubrication or Solvent onto the pilot bearing! They're pre-packed with grease. If using a cable, get a fork that goes with the bell. I'm not an expert on BHs but I believe the iron Sierra with a right side cable is most common. TracSport in UK has a variety of T9 stuff and bells. Gear kits too, which is something to consider because 1st gear is so low. A gear kit made for 7s evens ratios out to drive like a normal car. That's why the T2 is so nice, it's already perfect ratios. Steve Perks (TracSport) supplied reconditioned T2s and Ital Axles to Cat in the 90s so he's the guru. Also, in the build manual for xflow T9, it says to make a spacer between the mount and bracket. Not sure why. I read somewhere that T9 require RS2000 cable. Not sure why. I will find out. See: https://www.classicfordmag.co.uk/tech/gearbox-tech-ford-type-9-five-speed-guide/ http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=103512 http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=103512&page=3 http://www.topdocsracing.com https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/guides/maintenance/pre-loading-clutch-release-bearing-crb-cable-clutches Pics from Bearingkits.co.uk Here is a Red Line parts list I stole from a poster here: REDLINE CLUTCH PARTS LIST Clutch Plate - Helix 190X23 - 70-1605 Clutch release bearing -Helix - 40-2482 Clutch cover - Helix High Performance - T9 - 60-3329 Spigot bearing - 30E108A Pivot Pin - 6022530 Clutch alignment tool - T-9- AT13T Seal - crankshaft rear Xflow - NA793 Gasket Rear cover Xflow - 5028796 Front Seal Gearbox- 1602036 Gasket bellhousing to T9 (early) - 1632552

Like a Panhard rod, or Watts link system, the A frame's porpoise 🐬 is only to restrict latteral movement while allowing vertical movement as well as arresting axle rotation.

A frame weaknesses have always been the bain of the Seven. I'd say find a talented welder, give him the original A frame to fab up a jig and he build a solid A frame replacement on it. If you order an A frame from Cat, or Arch, you'll probably end up changing the radius arms as well due to a length difference.