IamScotticus

Pics of your car!

The doors and hood wil fit. Like all things 7, some adjustments will be necessary. Cat never changed any external dimension of the cockpit and basket from S2/3. Only changes were seat back bulkhead set back 2.25" and shock tower mounts have evolved to suit. Hoodstick and windscreen shapes and locations unchanged throughout S3 "Imperial" chassis production. DeDion cars may have a difference, I don't know. Always specicify an Imperial S3 kit. The main difference will be the door closing strap fasteners type and location. That may need to be changed on the body as they moved from outside to inside, or did they use both? Order weather kits without fasteners fitted so you can fit according to what's already on the car. I have a S2 and a modern Cat screen. (not selling it) The faster types are different but locations are identical. I easily switched out the bullets for poppers.

Looking for a bare aluminum Caterham S3 bonnet for that either has the GT spec downdraught carb hole or is a smooth top without louver vents in the carb hole area. Something I can use for a GT spec Cat. I have a perfectly good DCOE bonnet Im not willing to sacrifice for this project. Not willing to trade. Thanks

Oh, those are good photos. Everyone with a 7 should see the teardown pics. The corrosion is incredible. Much of that can be prevented with a battery kill switch, but a lot of it is inevitable with time. The question is answered, yes, the box is brazed on like everything else.

Hi. Regarding the covered steel framed pedal box the master cylinder bolts to, is this box welded to the chassis, or removable at all? Thanks Scott

They're available as repros. But the Lotus should add an additional $100

Working at Bean makes you 7 royalty 🫅

Get this if you can You can here

Yea, you're new to this

I suspect oil bypass valves allow more slippage than we know.

You're a beginner?

Carpeted my tunnel to stop burning my knees. I then started wondering if the glue had a low flash point?

Im looking for the S3 drop-in kit to bolt up a motor to the bell, two big cells on the side and cooling down the center. That shouldn't be very complex. Heh, watch Birkin do it first!

The best line here, "Science advances one funeral at a time" https://arstechnica.com/space/2023/05/at-long-last-the-glorious-future-we-were-promised-in-space-is-on-the-way/

Its a mixed bag with RL. some members here have had recent service. I don't know.

https://www.thundersport.co.uk/ http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/ http://softbitsforsevens.co.uk/ Chris Mintoft at Redline UK Caterham, of course. You might need to change out the bullet fasteners in the windscreen to popper bases.

Search the MG/AH forums. they must be the BMC experts

Your case breather was capped at some time for a dry sump. This goes in the plugged hole above the fuel pump boss: https://www.burtonpower.com/breather-elbow-23-5mm-ford-x-flow-691m-711m-ohv-kent-fp280a.html this or a genuine OE Ford oil-air separator. And if you're getting that from Burton, might as well get a blanking plate with splash deflection https://www.burtonpower.com/fuel-pump-blanking-plate-with-deflector-fp281.html Although there's nothing wrong with the mechanical fuel pump. Formula Ford run them hard and they're self pressure regulated.

is the case vented?

What oil pressures are you expecting?

An old trick is to chock the front wheels and jack up the rear really high, angle in the eng while lowering the chasis as you feed the tail through the tunnel. then with the eng and trans mounts still loose, raise again to instal the shaft. Keep the mounts loose until all ancillaries are installed for intake and exhaust positioning when on the ground. More than helpful...

Are the arms Mini?

PM coming soon

Although a $6-700 gantry is a huge investment, and makes more sense for a professional outfit (planning for the future), I have read many times of issues using "cherry pickers" on sevens that have been problem fraught. I saw how one fellow had to extend the boom so far, the rear legs needed extra weight added to keep from tipping. It would probably less of an issue for 7s up on wheel ramps where the legs can roll between the wheels, but chassis stands tend to get in the way.

Ooooh! A teachable moment! please give us a pic of the hoist used. My future engine plucking plan is a gantry hoist.