IamScotticus

That's really nice. And your boot cover is perfect. Jealous.

You can find wrestling and driving shoes are thin enough, and the wrestling shoes should be cheaper because they don't have to be fired retarded.

If you got 3500lb mix concrete

S3 seat width is 16" between tunnel and body wall. find something that width, squeeze into it and decide what is tolerable. length won't be an issue with any S3 or SV. Foot well space might be. Another thing that may not be well tolerated is the wheel arch hoop always there to jab your armpit or elbow into.

I will measure it later today. To clarify, the strip I am holding is the Caterham Item. Sorry, I can't let it go, Im going to use it. I would have used it currently, but it wouldn't fit under a new screen. The bottom of the screen frame is flatter than the scuttle curvature, causing the two to contact and making it nearly impossible to fit the screen with the trim in place. The Lotus screen I have fits my scuttle perfectly. I could continue to use the Lotus screen but I wanted the blue tint and supposedly safer glass. Im trying to figure out how to solve this. 🤯 Damn, after 10 years of figuring, it just occurred to me... Put the new glass in the old frame. Glass thickness shall determine that. The takeaway here for all you 7 builders is, test fit the windscreen without the weather strip first to check for conflicts. Here is my windscreen assembly procedure advice. Everything here is based on my own errors. Know your screen fasteners! Don't assume the the side screws are the same pitch as other screens. Have the right parts and test fit. Use plenty of masking tape on the scuttle sides under the stanchions. Attach the stanchions loosely first, without the screen. If you are using a stanchion bracket, Be prepared to adjust the height of this with shims if needed. (you probably didn't know these existed, did you?) Place the screen between the stanchions using masking tape wraped loosely around the upper stanchions sticking to the front and back of the screen to keep to keep the screen upright (assuming you are working alone, as most 7ers will be). Begin threading the lower side screen screws evenly on both sides, then align the top screws and loosly fit the screws. Observe the rubber strip to see if it is remaining in place. Remove masking tape from under the stanchions before they get too tight. Snug down the six screen screws until the stanchions are flush with the screen frame. Tighten the six screen screws to hand tight, or, remove and replace one at a time applying blue Loctite. Then tighten to hand tight. When the lower stanchions are tightened, there will be considerable tension applied to these screws as the stanchions twist. They don't need tension now. Feed the ends of the weather strip down under the stanchion triangle and trim as necessary. Personally, I like to trim off the top "T" portion where it meets the scuttle and stanchion pinch point. Tighten the lower stanchion screws. If attaching directly to the scuttle sides, use doubled fender washers and lock nuts on the inside. Stainless steel or geade 8 if you want to get fancy. If these fasters are going to get sheared, you got worse problems to worry about. Finally, a little trick. On the upper screen fasteners, apply an index mark of some kind to indicate backing out. I would make a little dot with a starter punch, or score a line at the 90° point. About stanscion tension and twisting, I don't know if its an intentional design, but I don't like it. However, it seems this is how the things are supplied, almost flat. The difference between the screen angle and scuttle angle, I roughly estimate is 20°. Thats a lot of tension applied. I don't know if it's supposed to be that way so take it into account with my suggestions.

Looks similar to me

This looks like the item https://mossmotors.com/windshield-seal-bottom I have a new one from Cat and this looks identical. The use of this by Austin-Healey in 1953 predates the Lotus 7

do these Chinese carbs accept weber jets and emulsion tubes?

The ubiquitous 32/36 DGAV is certainly out there. No shortage of YouTube tuning experts and service guides. It may be the most supported carb around. I think FF is stuck with it as well. But, the I have not read the praises for the 32/36 like I have for the 38/38 outlaw. I am reading that for a engine tuned beyond stock, 38 is the carb. It may be what my A2 cam needs to feed it. Not that its anything to brag about, its just the tallest cam Cat could build up a 1600 with, without having to replace pistons. So yes, the 38 may be larger than my little car needs, a 28/36 may be very sweet for a weekend driver. I have a 32DFM(Manual choke) coming my way that was a Cortina carb, and the carb the crossies had that Lotus dropped in the S3s and S4s. I will rebuild it and try it out for fun. I have a feeling I may want more, eventually. I need to see why Lotus used a DF as opposed to a DG before buying any more carbs.

Looking to score deals on these carbs. Condition, rebuildable. Considering attempting the 38 progressive conversion using the 23/36 parts, so the 23/36 can be junk, as long as the linkage is serviceable. Manual choke preferred but will accept aqua.

MT8162 is the standard For escort and Sierra boxes. Keep in mind you may need to adjust the drive line angle to match the diff at the final ride height. The mount is where you will do this with a spacer, if needed. Another idea to work in is is a retention collar around the front drive shaft joint to capture the grease that slings, protect it from dirt, and capture the shaft if it breaks loose. That thing slinging around at speed can do a lot of damage.

you kept the 4spd? Dog box?

I edited my downdraught rant to omit the progressive 32/36 to include the 38/38. It seems to be golden egg for under 2 liters. Even better if modified to a progressive primary and secondary opening articulation. Just cannibalize the linkage off a 32/36, trurn down a shaft, & plug the secondary accelerator pump circuit (being delayed, you don't want a fuel dump on top of it.) Now, Im not going to say that DCOEs can't be dialed in well. They can run just about anything. The most common mistakes on those is not matching the choke to the drive style. For our cars, you want to be on 32-37 chokes for general blatting around. And then theres the famous "dead spot". That could probably be adjusted for, or compensated for as well. But its one thing the downdraughts don't have much issue with. From what I am reading, the 38/38, if I can make it fit, will give all the flow I need. It certainly isn't any slouch on larger cars.

Here's a rabbit hole.. Im wanting to do the downdraft carb conversion. Of course there will be some loss in performance, but I think there is much to gain in drivability, livability, reliability and ease of setup. Really...DCOEs "floating"? A 38/38 DGxx doesn't need to float. You lock it down and done. The family wagon that hauled you kids all over in the 70s and 80s, that was probably on a 2 barrel carb. I think the downdraft is probably very neglected by the 7 crowd; perhaps for obvious reasons. I suspect many have just forgotten how easy they were to live with. Perhaps, once the DCOEs and the new bonnet were put on, they never looked back, just happily dealing with the syncing and thackary washers as needed, while enjoying the HP gains. Are the downdrafts under appreciated? Of course, it wouldn't be a question for racing, But that's what DCOEs are for. Downdrafts are still used in racing, where required, like Formula Ford, etc. But Im thinking downdrafts are more practical for street and road. Lotus and Caterham sold many 7s equipped with the base Cortina & Escort lump. Why not go back to it, if all Im going to do is be a weekend street driver? With a dry sump and A2 cam. One question for the gurus is, is there any problem in fitting a Weber 38/38 DGxx to a Ford manifold and running on an A2 cam? Aldon Dizzy. Some opening of the manifold flange to clear the 38 plates possibly.

will 914 seats fot standard 7?

I believe Craig Chima has one now

What is this?

They will ban those too

One of the awesome 7 factoids. Yea, a copy of that would be very cool to have.

I heard on a news broadcast there is no prohibition from ownig and operating gassers. They just won't be sold as new cars. Lets seee how this goes when the petrol stations dry up 😬

Im thinking a chassis dolly might be the most practical for me. Im my half of the garage it would be too tight to get around a 4 post. A 2 post would need too much room also. I can rotate Beater on a dolly and maneuver it around my half of the garage. Im not sure yet how to get Beater up on and off one.

dual bonded bushes only work this way if the inner sleeve is a wider width than the outer. I have noticed that some of these type are very close to being of equal length. Can anyone say how the PowerflexUSA brand of poly bushes are constructed? Preload or not applicable?

@MXM Thanks! That is exactly the info I was looking for, at the time. I eventually figured it out, but many others may have the same questions. Your photo of that tack weld is very hard to come by. @MV8 Yes, the Ital / Marina axle half shaft inner bearing is a very tight press, but would walk off from latteral hammering due to a loose A frame, or just too much curbing on the race 7s. In the 90s Caterham's spartan entry level scholarship academy Classic budget 7s were supplied with used Escort Sport boxes and Morris Ital axles reconditioned to Cat specs by SP Components (Steve Perks) which is now Raceline. There is much criticism over the choice to weld the bearing. I have read that it was solely Caterhams specification. @ Everyone Having gotten my answer, which was how to remove the axle depending on the weld location. I now wonder how to go about minimizing any damage to the bearing in the process? Use a heat source to expand the case? I would rather not have to remove the fuel tank so I can torch in the area. Perhaps a heak block, but I don't know where to find something like that. Ive seen blocks for heating pistons, etc. The problem with sourcing a different axle is the long cockpit tunnel is too far back to clear better, larger axles. There may be Mazda and Toyota options that have been used, but too much hassle for me. The Ital axle is more than adequate as long as I keep a mild road Xflow. Im just wanting to learn how to service it properly.

Interested in this as well. I would need to fit a lift in a 2 car garage that wifey will be parking next to. So, it must be narrow, 8ft, 4 post and not an eyesore so it will be NIMG (Not In My Garage) proof. Maybe I can throw a tablecloth over it

Tube can accept a rod core for strength