IamScotticus

So you're saying to remove the BH, stab in the shaft holding the clutch and cover, and assemble whilst checking the spacing between the block face and transmission face? This is brilliant!

Chuck, did those wheels come off a 7 with Escort (Ford) or Marina/Ital (Morris/Triumph) live axle or a DeDion (Ford)?

I think if you got them on a flat level surface, have the shaft axis alignment, a bubble level on the T9 cover, and rocker cover, you should be able to slide them together. if not, re-align the clutch disc again.

my vote is on valve seals

ask Ken who builds engines near you ken@davebean.com

size? PCD?

good to know,thx

your doing this with engine in car? I can come by and lend my engine stands if you like. it may be easier out of the car. rotating the shaft sounds like a plan. Also, there are clutch centering tools that clamp against the splines that may be more reliable than the common spline tool.

Looking through my parts, I found this scissor jack. One of the previous owners of my kit had obtained it, possibly as a Caterham accessory, as it appears perfect for a seven. The weight is 3lbs 14oz. The cradle is close to 3 inch diameter. I found info on it here http://www.classic-british-car-jacks.uk/Metallifacture_jacks_2.htm I am considering using my lower battery tray as a mount for this.

Im sure you've heard of inserting a pair of drill bits as wrenches. Not ideal for track prep, but they would take no space in a tool kit.

Good question. But perches from different manufacturers have different shaped notches, some have holes.

my Scholarship car's bonnet has a blemish in the metal I will never be able to polish out. Not a total eye sore, but enough to keep if out of presentation grade. Probably a blem that kept the cost of the kit down. As is stated above, you could do a lot of work just to find something unsustainable for bare. Perhaps a baking soda blaster is the thing,?

The 13" Yokos are dry rotted. Im thinking its its about time to to do the 14" conversion. After all, 100mm PCD opens up a lot of wheel options. Or 4.75/108mm, for some reason, which doesn't have the OEM wheel pickings, but has been an option for certain popular Ford wheels. Is that the Escort PCD? Regardless, Im stuck with the Ital axle for now. This brings me to the question of rear PCD conversion adapters... Are they a sensible option? I have heard of them failing on larger vehicles, possibly due to poor installation, but is failure less likely on a car this light? Any advice on PCD adapters please!

I will try to find something, but if no luck here, Im sure Chris at Redline will know

Probably only a later Arch location, I have heard chassis numbers are stamped on the wiper motor mount, as well as a rear shock mount.

I trying to prevent spider cracks on the clams. not overtightend, of course.

I was looking for hold down screws with more surface area and found these on McMaster. 1/4-20 stainless. Just a smidge larger than the OE 6mm. The hole in the support will need opening up slightly. Head diameter is .75". I'm willing to part with 3 pairs to who would like them, no charge, just not fast. PM please

We will all be in sterile eggmobile bumper cars on electric tracks. Set a destination, sit back and enjoy a choclate cannabis bar and a movie. You will be notified when your arrive. If you arrive...

Better to let the GTI go with engine probably to another racer or street freak. You can price the upgrades into the deal. You will always regret offing the VW, you just have to commit to it and not be holding on. And there's this this point, what if you decide the 7 isn't your thing?

Getting and keeping bare alloy pretty is a chore. I would be thinking prep and re-paint You could try Rustoleum Aircraft remover as a stripper. don't use anything abrasive or you will make paint filled gouges. Painting on metals, especially fast oxidizing, often require an etching primer. No idea if Cat used it or how hard it is to remove. In sure its not impossible.

Here is a Xflow head Ive had sitting around for 15 years. I bought it built to this spec. About 10 years ago i gave it to a marine boat engine man to install new valve seals and whatever, which it probably didn't need. It was all bare metal then. The engine man painted it with a thick coat of black. I think he knew this heads future waz to sit for the next 10 years and a coat of paint would keep the rust off. He was very right. However, as I look toward my Xflow refresh, its possible that head might go on. So, what do I have here? It looks like a ported head with double springs and maybe larger valve stems. I don't see bronze valve guides. I dunno about that. I do know that I don't plan on doing any cam and piston swapping so the A2 cam and standard 1600 pistons stay for now. Are dual springs necessary? In the porting, #1 and #3 exhaust broke into the head bolt holes. Install a sleeve? What else does this head need to get ready for road? Of course I wouldn't put this on without cleaning it up first. I'll give it to a shop to dip, flux and face. Measurements: intake ports: 1 3/8 intake valves: 1 5/8 exhaust ports: 1 1/8 exhaust valves: 1 3/8 valve stem tops: 5/16 weight: 35 lbs porting incursions: ex # 1 ex #3

Looks like a barb. You might be able to put a fuel hose and clamp over it, but the intended fitting is preferred. Most QD fittings have O-rings or are smooth

Carl, is this a DeDion suspension?

If I had this car, all I would do is put clams on it. Then watch them buckle.

On the subject of release bearings, When I set up my cable play, I have the option of preloading the bearing. This has been discussed elsewhere, with the opinion that keeping a light contact with the splines, thus keeping the bearing moving, helps reduce bearing face wear on the take-up. Any experience with this? T-9 to Xflow