IamScotticus

I had read that the Ford blocks were painted MG Maroon. Honestly, do what you like with marine grade materials for durability and MV8 is right about cushion density. No Body But You Will Know Any Different.

On scuttle tab fixing, I looked at a few of my books to try to see anything definitive. Series 1, no tabs. they were too cool for tabs, like all DeDions. But us live axle schmucks are stuck with tabs. Series 2, tabs on all cars but the scuttles are mostly fixed to the instrument panel hoop vertical tube (PHVT), about an inch above the chassis top tube (CTT). Series 3, same as 2 up to the early 80s where the tabs are riveted close to the top edge of the CTT, but not below it. Series 3 in the early 90s, and perhaps a long cockpit thing, tab rivets appeared inserted low, about an inch below the CTT, and more centered on the tab. It is possible that the final tab hole location may have been an executive decision by the Arch riveter with the drill at the time of build since locating a blind hole behind panel is difficult, Arch probably didn't pre drill that hole. Going forward, I also saw many examples of 7s that should have had tabs that were removed for esthetics. For any build, It would be perfectly acceptable to remove the tab and afix the scuttle edge to the PHVT. I've often pondered the possibility of cutting the form wire off and sliding the tab down between the skin and CTT. That would scratch TS out of the tube. Maybe if I smooth out the edges nicely. I will be taking my scuttle off soon, doing the rivnut mod (2nd time). I'll look for the holes then. Im pretty sure I have holes under my tabs because I remember drilling them out of my old scuttle and I have a few pictures of them. Interestingly, they are located more like early 80s but my chassis is a 95.

Vin, its a common mod for ease of access under the scuttle to drill out the rivets securing the front edge to the bulkhead, inserting rivnuts to the bulkhead, then attaching the scuttle with screws instead of rivets

What will you use for the engine and final drive?

Van, where are you?

Arch Motors UK but since you are building the chassis, its probably better to work with a metal man locally. Those who can form aircraft panels can do a 7. Motorcycle tank builders can make the nose and fenfers, assuming these will be metal.

Im not liking the old bullet type connections of the older cars (mine). Which connector are you using?

Do you have a plan for afixing the scutte tabs? Im in the same boat. Last fellow that re-skined mine didn't provide a tab hole location. I have to hunt for it. I will rivnut the fronts and make it all removable and might thread the rears, or sheet metal screw before drilling out large holes for rivnuts.

V, Are those pipes packed? where from? And that rocker cover?

The good: They kept it British The bad: This is a pattern that has been seen before. A small flexible business that had survived as such gets new enthusiastic people with big ideas to improve on something that wasn't broken. Even if Cat offered a basic budget 7 again, they would have to move many more cars to be profitable. The enthusiastic big idea people always believe this won't be a problem. If this doesn't pan out, there's no scaling back to the small British cottage industry. VT will pull everything out of UK. Cat let the fox in the hen house.

Do you have that remote shifter contraption?

will put up a puc later, but the car is lifted under the cross brace. I put the stand just behind it. It might be moved later or as needed for access to work around.

I don't know what stock springs are...

Yes, just fun blatting, nothing serious. I will require a softer ride for the roads here.

If it hasn't been said already, That was a wonderful article on this project in Low Flying a few months ago.

There are soooo many discussions on springs... Its just easier to ask again than to sort through it all. What springs are we running on the basic SPAX G303 Front and G305 rear non-height adjustable spring perch on a standard S3 Caterham Live axle (Ital) that will not be raced? I have old G305s on the rear now with blue springs that I can't ID yet, possibly Hyperco, but I will be looking for springs in a different color. Bilstein yellow would be nice. Where do these spring numbers get stamped? Thanx

I think I see the sale items in the For Sale link in the menu link

Can anyone say if the rear clam wing supports used by Lotus and early Cat improve wing stability at speed? They are still available at Cat parts.

I suppose I shouldn't show and not tell... https://allstarperformance.com/chassis-dollies-all10625/

Yes, that jack has the height to lift to the top tier of the stands without spacers. But I do use a block of 2×4 under the diff and a 2ft length of 2x4 under the front chassis for lifting. I had the 4x4 block handy if I needed it but I didn't. It looks tall, but its a small car. The car is only 17 inches up, floor to chassis. As for step lifting, I already had been on wheel dollies so the angles were not too extreme. If not, then yes, I would be lifting the front and back in steps. Probably just two steps. Another note, as these stand bars are only 30" long, and the verticles are spaced 23", I wasn't comfortable with that on the rear where the chassis is 39". I cut the rear stand in half and extended it 13". 1.25x36" square tube from Home Depot is a perfect fit inside.

Are you a live axle?

aww, just let them fray. i think its better to leave them loose.

see this https://www.cobraseats.com/seats.html?pid=20&cid=2

Hi Robert. We need to know the lug bolt spacing (PCD).

is there a price for the parts kit for DIY,