7Westfield

Pat retired several years ago

I'd def have it tapped before building an engine If not used, a plug is cheap teardown for doing it later ain't

The foam is probably pretty tired, anyway, so who cares.... I'm thinking of doing mine, looking for some stiffer foam than original

Easiest way is probably one of those rotating laser levels https://www.ebay.com/itm/356310236044?_skw=laser+level+360&itmmeta=01JDYTT6NSJ0C5DVGQK0GPHC6B&hash=item52f5bebb8c:g:JCoAAOSwGmRnLeN4&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnl7%2BzhxQry%2FmBDf95E71tCrldl20fhl1LM4%2Fm0ga5Jti99SCfX15hQKrMmEyKREZmdQSkfyXnpO9UmzA0Ixmih3n4w8FVZ1wEgOiXp1kTpFYerlgqHR%2BI9NAqLhT7xZNCf5D1NUz4xDkrfMl7z2EngCHuB4Hr0kA3amIjbbda0f3nYu%2FpCAEzBEH1vRWBNp5aCzs9wSuDL1skBXBvRNaGu8kBtDB3ZlnDs5KvvrYd61qwZ9pkDVVRA7dsjY%2B%2Frzcnho0sthdA5P%2B6Xc0HFNe%2F86JQWiyi8kftK96o7BsmrMA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMgOvo2u9k just put it in the middle and use a yardstick on each of your pads some people use a water level or, if you have a long enough straight edge and a digital level yes roll the car off the pads and bounce it a couple of times after a change, then back on and verify

108 is good for a street motor But, if you want to run at the pointy end of FF, you need more and the serious SCCA types will be touching up the valves at 25 hours, and rings at 50

So, an update first, it's def not an Arnie motor it is a fresh build, but prob 20 years ago still has the Ford pistons, not the current CP items had an oil pressure issue, as in none priming pump on dyno wouldn't put up any pressure finally figured out the plug in the oil gallery right behind the cam gear was missing able to fix it without pulling the gear and every gasket leaks whoever built it only put sealer on one side after all that, it did fire right up 108hp so prob a good number back then, but not now but it has a new home with a friend who's going to refresh it for his Dulon

once they spin...it gets tricky I've ground some with a dremel also a narrow wood chisel

I've seen an MGB fry the throttle cable

No doubt the string setup is better, but for quick + dirty job, the plates are fine At one point, when I was racing my Supervee, I had a collapsible frame that went around the car to string it but, for a solid axle 7, at home nah

a homemade set of these is what I use for toe adjustments https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=12736 and a digital level for camber

Hmmm I know where there's a square tube locost frame hanging on a wall.....

Chronometric = mechanical drive Nisonger has been out of the repair business for several years 6 feet of flood water thru the shop and parts inventory

I always clean up the top + bottom of the pads on the belt sander so they slide nicely

I wouldn't bother welding the spacer to the mount Just a 1/4" aluminum plate spacer, and blue loctite on the bolts

They look like 14LFs Moss doesn't list the brand of their kits if it worries you, Girling kits at Pegasus If you plan to split the calipers, be aware that the seal between halves doesn't come in the kits, and if reused, it will leak

Can you mount it next to the master cylinder? With careful selection of fittings and a couple of premade flex lines, you may not even need a flaring tool

Assuming the MC is in line with the pedal, using a heim on one side will put side force on the cyl bore, causing uneven wear granted, it will be minimal If things are in proper alignment, I'd stick with a clevis after all, the original funky one got you 30+ years

I've seen some with a lot of wear, but that's a new record. Never seen a single sided one, either. https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1131 Should be able to get a pin at a good hardware store, or use a good bolt. If using a bolt be sure to get one with enough unthreaded shank so that no threads are inside the clevis. Amazing how good threads are at chewing up stuff

yes AN is single flare 37 degrees

cut the bubble off slide on an AN nut, then the sleeve flare the end pic is some -6 bits from my stash

those banjo fittings are for AN cut the bubble off and use a AN nut + sleeve I have never seen a banjo for a double flare

A bubble flare on a line will take a special banjo fitting, prob from an old brit car. They are bigger than the AN ones, cast brass. they really are an ugly thing to behold In the pic at top, I'm guessing the threads into the valve are 3/8-24, so you need 2 3/8 to AN3 banjos and banjo bolts, and copper seal washers. If threads turn out to be 10mm, banjo bolts are available, but check thread pitch carefully. Then turn the lines out thru the tunnel and put AN3 flare nuts and sleeves on job done you will need a AN flaring tool--they are Not the same as a regular auto tool, they flare at 37 degrees instead of 45 and AN is a single flare, not double I have an older flaring tool from Speedway Motors part # 91089528, but for light use 91089520 should do you fine fittings from Pegasus 3265-20 3241-3/8 3242-001 3235-030 STL 3236-03 STL

probably little diff as to vibration I prefer AN/JIC for everything except my daily drivers--it's just easier to deal with, lots of adapter fittings, etc. And you can buy premade flex lines in a wide variety for instance, my Westy came with a mix of English bubble flares and JIC anything I have had apart is now AN and the formula fords are all AN

Remember that if you use AN fittings, the flare angle is different. AN uses a 37 degree single flare, with a nut and sleeve, not your typical 45 degree double flare brake line It's all easy enough, just be sure to have the right bits

pressure sender needs to match the gauge doesn't care what engine I'm going to be talking to a FF engine builder this weekend, I'll ask him if he's interested