7Westfield

about what I expected thanks

thanks MV any idea what the difference would be, vs a 711? obviously not much, or it couldn't be a FF block

I picked up a trailer full of formula ford parts the other day, and this xflow was in the mix No numbers at the back, where you find 711M, etc But, at the front end.... Is this what it looks like? Seems overkill for a 115hp FF engine

the adapter plates I've used have all been NPT--but check it anyway what thread is on the cooler BSP?

IIRC xflows only take 4 quarts with a stock pan, so you're not horribly under filled I'd look for a used stock pan with pickup tube--if yours is modified, who knows what they did to the tube do you need front or rear sump? what oil are you using? you want ZDDP additive

I think you are right on the "R", but since you have no radio... https://www.ebay.com/itm/166754639181?itmmeta=01J4Q1JP7DMNVRH97TB1D84C4Z&hash=item26d359dd4d:g:8QMAAOSwN3FmPYJo&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHEFCD%2BbD8X3zxALyvEqwkP0%2FD9rOUTBupB0xxemnFIBCQrJUtovhVjq4au9oyJ8oz4pV0iOmWL4%2BvGzn9%2BZtwypGJU3wIHSjknnPtcT1qGYXQID7EGm%2B18T2QG%2Br5LS%2BwCdXXobWM4C3TzpaLnvFF%2BjgKfBr5f2vU%2FccHRLGjoe%2BunYGKRVcYOhyznA4nJMklcJEphxsP42X8rE5y5gxh8UJcAXfg6Cke4CVSHUKoFz0Q1LK161p0Bw1h%2F9jtu8kA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-bjyuGlZA or search for them by the stock # 4930

I run NGK BCP6ES in both 1600's In my Westfield and a formula ford they come gapped about .030 and that seems fine 20-25 lbs torque I forget how NGK runs their temp scale if the B8 is colder, and you have higher than stock compression, I'd think it was OK too

Let me know if you do...I have a like new one quart unit with mount clamps and filter block that I no longer need

4 port pump won't fit a 7. Engine mount interferes with filter starting from scratch, best budget at least $2500 if going with new parts I only did mine because I had all the bits laying around, and still spent a bunch on hose and fittings

A friend tows a vintage racing 912 in an enclosed trailer with a cayenne

take a pair of 3/8 bolts--4-5" long and cut the heads off you then put them in the lowest holes in the bellhousing--3+9 o'clock they slide into the holes on the engine, carrying the weight so you can line things up easier put the disc in by eye, and tighten the pp bolts just finger tight should be able to wiggle things enough to get input shaft in, then slide gearbox off and tighten PP bolts dowel and tape also works

I've used bicycle cables on vintage race cars for years you do want brake cables, not shift cables

English axle is from Fords--- Cortina 1/2 Escort 1/2 the gear set comes out the front of the diff-like a Ford 9" 4x4.25"

Are these a "metalastic" bushing? If so, GMT Racing has several sizes on hand Dave Bean also has a few

it looks rusty, just like the trucks

those red lines have been around for years, generally fine, but nothing wrong with changing it what diameter is the cylinder they swapped out?

you might look into one of the blankets welders use to protect nearby stuff don't know what's available as to sizes etc I don't know how hot the muffler gets, but I do know you don't want to find out the hard way

I put a trailer light on my roll bar one of those LED strips about 1" x 10" also wired it thru a flasher unit (Back-off?) that flashes 4-5 times at first, then goes solid on edit something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/173617237296?itmmeta=01HZCMVCYFH78HYM9K8YPZ92X3&hash=item286c64cd30:g:aUsAAOSwQ6lmAn1f&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8E9NnwMk%2FR5ToOVcqAO1300gI0oK97pVfFbFUMzxs%2F83zZ0zFz964EqpWc%2Bi%2B%2FPBHKOfWgiIy2Tt1eNFtz%2FQpFjmiONNosafNWfrgcc1ZYAJMITTI08NNy%2FsnChFzFnvA2OvIpeJNL936d3pdnvFi65O9puhr0J68%2Bxu4WtRntmC0zKqqMM7PAAamvKSvBQ%2BZSpfCky1h8SWavsfXpiCiEoAlWgjAiqCQF6xCJxYHXprJTjktUo9Ey50W7HkX0eFqXiTR3%2BszfuvsotZq230pw0%2FzmnpSn3MA%2BGEK8rf4LSSCycVocyuI72bggIZa2se8w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMtM_tlPtj

do you see bubbles coming up in the swirl pot? could indicate a blown head gasket, letting hot gas into water system. might be worth pressure testing the system you can get loaner testers at many parts stores oil looks ok? if it's a milkshake, it's a head gasket if you pressure test it, and it loses pressure, be sure to pull the plugs and spin it over before starting to prevent hydro lock if that's the only fan, next to the oil cooler, it's doing nothing for you need a better one, mounted on back of radiator, pulling air thru

I dug out the stock pulley I took off my 1600---it's 4.75 OD I'm running the smaller one from Burton

have you removed the thermostat / water outlet housing? not likely, but possible someone put some sort of restrictor/stat in there, and it's gone wonky where is your temp bulb mounted? under the water outlet?

try a chunk of tubing, like fuel hose

what is the diameter of your pump shaft? 1/2" or 5/8" older engines like yours were 1/2, and pumps are pretty hard to find I had a 1/2" on my 1600 when I got it pumps from rockauto ( '71 pinto 1600) are 5/8, but I was able to ream the center hole on my pulley and use it

remove the lower hose, and fill the engine thru the upper hose if it doesn't flow right thru, you have a clogged block the pumps are driven faster than engine speed to account for traffic, etc designed so that the fan/rad is adequate in fact, on a formula ford, we seriously UNDERDRIVE the pump to save power FF's have a heating problem at idle, but a street engine shouldn't

I've had a water pump impeller get loose from the shaft and not turn. More likely to happen with a plastic impeller, but not unheard of with cast ones. As noted above, the pipe on the pump is the intake, coming from bottom of radiator. Depending on which engine, you might be able to put a long screwdriver or something into the pump inlet to lock the impeller, then try to turn the pulley to see if they're still connected edit--- can you connect a garden hose to the pump? see if you blow out a bunch of crud don't put that much pressure thru the rad