7Westfield

I assume Holley built the 5200 for Ford and GM because there was a buck to be made at the time Later on, some oval track groups used it as a spec carb---build what you want, but feed it thru a 5200 I can't see enough volume to justify production now

1.5 "

In a recent post someone (MV8?) mentioned trying a Mopar item on a xflow. So, I needed some Honda parts recently, and looked around Rockauto a bit. Found one from a 79 Volare 6cyl, and for a huge $7, what the heck... Nice looking casting, had Made in Mexico sticker on box, over printed made in China go figure Four Seasons 84837 It's the one on the left in the photo Maybe the alternate routing will help someone

I use a wider clamp, about 3", 2 bolts

"Ford 9 inch" is a reference to the ring gear diameter WAY too much iron for a 7

I hope you get a kiss with this LOL

If you are looking to run it this year, a pre built one is probably the only option. Last time I had a cell made-a couple of years ago- it was 3 or 4 months wait, and that was over the winter....I dealt with Pyrotect, very nice and savvy folks 541-504-0340 They could take your existing tank and build a bladder inside it ATL/Fuelsafe seemed to be less interested in custom work, price was higher Eagle (my first choice) told me they aren't doing automotive any more---way behind on aircraft orders

Another source might be "Damperman" on the WSCC forum he works at Spax, and supplies a lot of the Westy folks

this is one option https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=779 I have Terry springs on mine

that brake light switch is like 60s+70s MGs Healeys etc a lot of westy owners wire in a pedal switch in parallel, gets lights on sooner the pedal switch acts first pressure one is backup I'd extend that exhaust back to lessen hearing loss

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116344208543?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20240131095853%26meid%3Db82c8fc0b289490a82e850fb92fbfcb7%26pid%3D101949%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D116344208543%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2WithMLRPboosterAndUpdatedFeatures_BP&_trksid=p4375194.c101949.m162918&_trkparms=parentrq%3Aec5c50561940a550c3bb5538fffff874|pageci%3Ae98cfc78-e722-11ef-88d1-4625254d3e95|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage

Now you have another puzzle What gearboxes fit those propshafts? hopefully, you can get a new yoke for whichever one you use, those are nasty

My initial take was that this affected China only

I wonder how much it warped

maybe you can make this work listed for a Datsun 240z https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Reusable-Air-Filter-15x2-Oval,351226.html?utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&store_code=SMI-LNK&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkJO8BhCGARIsAMkswyi6uQI2pBTFaHy41ikQZ2wpJQ0-TNLr6oQdPA3HDehk-UInQOpxpjQaAgVkEALw_wcB

AFAIK they take the 2.25" bolt spacing of Girling, Lockheed, Tilton, Wilwood

My Royale FSV had one of these brackets for the brake pedal, fitted with a balance bar. Clutch MC was on a separate fabbed bracket A fair number of formula cars used them in the day

Croc....funny you mention the HVAC blower in a Volvo 240 A friend used to have a shop with a fair sized Volvo clientele he said the first thing you do for that job is remove the back seat, so you have a place to put all the S**t from the dash LOL I think they hung the blower on a string and built the car around it

Pat retired several years ago

I'd def have it tapped before building an engine If not used, a plug is cheap teardown for doing it later ain't

The foam is probably pretty tired, anyway, so who cares.... I'm thinking of doing mine, looking for some stiffer foam than original

Easiest way is probably one of those rotating laser levels https://www.ebay.com/itm/356310236044?_skw=laser+level+360&itmmeta=01JDYTT6NSJ0C5DVGQK0GPHC6B&hash=item52f5bebb8c:g:JCoAAOSwGmRnLeN4&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKnl7%2BzhxQry%2FmBDf95E71tCrldl20fhl1LM4%2Fm0ga5Jti99SCfX15hQKrMmEyKREZmdQSkfyXnpO9UmzA0Ixmih3n4w8FVZ1wEgOiXp1kTpFYerlgqHR%2BI9NAqLhT7xZNCf5D1NUz4xDkrfMl7z2EngCHuB4Hr0kA3amIjbbda0f3nYu%2FpCAEzBEH1vRWBNp5aCzs9wSuDL1skBXBvRNaGu8kBtDB3ZlnDs5KvvrYd61qwZ9pkDVVRA7dsjY%2B%2Frzcnho0sthdA5P%2B6Xc0HFNe%2F86JQWiyi8kftK96o7BsmrMA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMgOvo2u9k just put it in the middle and use a yardstick on each of your pads some people use a water level or, if you have a long enough straight edge and a digital level yes roll the car off the pads and bounce it a couple of times after a change, then back on and verify

108 is good for a street motor But, if you want to run at the pointy end of FF, you need more and the serious SCCA types will be touching up the valves at 25 hours, and rings at 50

So, an update first, it's def not an Arnie motor it is a fresh build, but prob 20 years ago still has the Ford pistons, not the current CP items had an oil pressure issue, as in none priming pump on dyno wouldn't put up any pressure finally figured out the plug in the oil gallery right behind the cam gear was missing able to fix it without pulling the gear and every gasket leaks whoever built it only put sealer on one side after all that, it did fire right up 108hp so prob a good number back then, but not now but it has a new home with a friend who's going to refresh it for his Dulon

once they spin...it gets tricky I've ground some with a dremel also a narrow wood chisel