7Westfield

did you ever find one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/304660318904?fits=Year%3A1971|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A1.6L|Trim%3ABase|Model%3APinto|Make%3AFord|Submodel%3ABase|Engine%3A1.6L+1597CC+98Cu.+In.+l4+GAS+Naturally+Aspirated|Submodel%3ABase|Engine%3A1.6L+1597CC+98Cu.+In.+l4+GAS+Naturally+Aspirated&itmmeta=01HRN2VV35RJ7X6ZJWEJS6X69Z&hash=item46ef2b8ab8:g:y2oAAOSw5PlkmdBb&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAABAGM2S4nHwgtCGulpdrXDKPPEby%2FUpmrSjw6jnSmAhZZlNwyZJvOx3fR5uWitScNmWUW82nTAB23gNoz1la%2FSamGB4JL6uWkenPD%2FQyZfLoEzVNgNOyo4N3VC6MjT8rDjbNfOHrAkxOuWTsgfOF2r4Vzs71mD%2FO9b0fh97bHdb1ufYRsxkxPKuQqRmxniiQVnNO2C6jEwMWwjEAdIPWf%2FdB9bauWSn4sVRO2isdPf1YZM%2FeZ7zmJ1dwyGkQZIB0Vzhe1Ww0lGZ%2F8H53zlb1WIu2pkyxxzK75xJ7pWwbD51zNb6Fa49J0VKGfuU5AsV1VowoPKw3I6oV2V0x6MJv3da50%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-Cx76LFYw

No info on what's proper, but I do know you will have a lot less rocks to shovel out of the seat than the burgundy car....

The answer to question #1 is probably yes....and yes My prelit had a hole in the plate with a 1/4" pipe elbow on it, always wet If you do put another fitting in the plate, use an AN bulkhead fitting with a stat-o-seal washer A gob of epoxy should seal that hole, or a zap with the MIG How close is the gauge hole to an edge of the tank? Is it close enough that you could put a bulkhead fitting in the front or end of the tank near the top? when I built my new tank, I used weld-on bungs When looking for a new sender, you also need to match the resistance to the gauge

Just a thought....will your homeowner policy cover it? same as theft from your car at that point it's "stuff", not a "vehicle" HO policy covered stolen trailer for a friend

If you want a bottom mount, look at big Healeys Moss has a couple of sizes

NPT AFAIK you could always run a tap in and open them up a bit

Get longer bolts with the proper grip length, then shorten the threads with a cutoff wheel, if needed Loctite

I'd be a bit worried about that thermostat housing. I've had a pressed in fitting blow out of a xflow fuel pump , and this is running more than double the pressure. If there's enough meat there, I'd tap it for a threaded fitting. FWIW SCCA hasn't allowed those fuel fittings for years

it's for access to the bolts on the flange

Could that rear panel simply be intended as access for the u-joint? In my Westfield, it would be damn near impossible any other way.

I was told, on another forum, it will be like 8 months to be back in business

Maybe check with Caterham, and see who made the harness?

My prelit has the battery on the floor right behind the passenger's butt access by removing RR wheel (sort of), or remove boot floor (5 screws) garden tractor battery--2 common amperages, depending on how you want terminals arranged

There will probably be some air sucked in where the primaries go into the collector, affecting your numbers

I thought all the 90 degree units were 1:1 ratio, with any adjusting done by way of the drive gear, or in the speedo... I assume you have a 1500 Ford, so this is probably it https://www.burtonpower.com/90-degree-speedo-drive-adaptor-gbt9560.html

yep or, this one's a bit larger https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-300116 just went out and measured mine.....it's a Cannon brand, but same as the Summit unit

I have a tank similar to this on mine,except that the lower port is on the front so it can sit lower on the scuttle. Lower port is plumbed to the heater port on the water pump. Upper port goes to the thermostat housing with a -4 braided line. With a couple of holes in the stat it fills easily and works great FWIW head gaskets on xflows are better than you think. 3-4 years ago, we blew a FF engine because the water pump stopped (lower pulley broke) water not circulating, so gauge didn't go up got it hot enough to seize a valve in the guide, and of course it was open, so you know what happened to the piston..... head gasket was fine https://www.ebay.com/itm/382539232737?hash=item59111d75e1:g:gYMAAOSwNE9kRLG2&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0AsBkwM0otc9BdLPcwCtpoxz7hYCOV3H7cBI0jB4nhFhr9KA5C6E2Je45rRktOXefYeugBo7LxE75r47B5jTbHi7gCWAhkJ9ySUW4cH3LB0evB1vzbm7ewqxPmOjCtntlcHgMzSsgK3PtDQVyHjr40u91gEOSustAfh6097g73y5UTEdxuWIso9dt%2FiMtYPf3fGuvPyEfFh78SAXK4hraYp4y4DFUKToybBvtkIgRifoTEIzuXKXaSH%2Bh3oRqxKMtkT336oGF7xsuFMi6QMoUls%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8DOx8KKYw

If it's an aluminum tank, be very careful with lye, it will attack the aluminum

probably right on the foam when I bought my supervee, the foam was all in the bottom of the bladder--2" of really nasty chocolate pudding

I swapped a type 3 out for a t9 a couple of years ago you'll need a different bell housing I went hydraulic concentric for clutch release if the t9 came from a merkur, the input shaft is too long--shorten or change new clutch disc new driveshaft

and the $99 is only the start of the fees.........

FWIW that pegasus link is not the one for a x-flow I just picked it for illustration

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1236 the gold colored fitting holds the sandwich plate to the pump it's right above the filter it screws onto the threads that used to hold the filter if yours is like this, all you need to do is remove it and install a filter I have seen some with male threads on both ends---if you have that style, you need the fitting from an another pump edit---forgot I had one in the basement this photo is the bottom side remove filter-remove gold fitting-install filter

which engine? if it's a x-flow, the sandwich plate is likely held on to the pump with a special fitting just swap back to the stock item

I haven't needed a piston stop for quite a while, but next time, I'm just going to gut an old spark plug Then either tap the inside for a bolt, or weld a slug into it