7Westfield

Thanks I've seen them, just never knew the name

what is a Thackery washer, and where do I get them?

maybe a US only "nanny state" thing?

My xr4ti shop manual says the forward one is reverse light switch, rear one is neutral safety switch BUT I wonder if that's right--other way round makes more sense my box -from a merkur- does have a divot in the shift rod at the bottom of the front one, and the hole is threaded

if you end up drilling them, use a left hand bit you might get lucky and have them unscrew inside that cam cover looks really bad

ZDDP goes in the oil if they say "tank", they're refering to a dry sump oil tank this may help https://www.speedwaymotors.com/the-toolbox/what-is-zddp-benefits-of-zinc-in-oil/30870

No direct knowledge, but I suspect the Fit motor is ok without ZDDP after all, it's a modern street engine, and AFAIK overhead cams don't need it

FF now has 2 engine options, xflow and Honda Fit, hence change to current name of Formula F. Nobody runs the "cortina" engine anymore, it's all the "uprated" version. 711 block Very simply put, balance and blueprint is about all you can do, but it's an art form. Power of 115+ hp common, power falls off over about 6700 rpm The Fit motor runs basically stock, with a restrictor in the intake to tone it down It's only 1500cc, but I've heard numbers up to about 140hp if you lose the restrictor and they just don't break amazing what 50 years of engineering progress will do

Every formula ford engine builder I've dealt with wanted ZDDP oil. Current guy likes Penn Grade 15-40 syn blend. So, that goes in the FF, the xflow Westfield, and the tow vehicle--simplifies inventory Charlie

What's it supposed to fit? Those primaries look too long for a "7", seem to be more for a sedan, like a cortina --they look to go more "back" than "out the side" Better pix?

back to burton BH3

what are you going to use for bellhousing? --merkur does not fit crossflow

Note that if you use the Burton parts, the release bearing they sell for cable operation is 34mm ID. The Merkur boxes may be the only ones with 36mm snoots. They sell a 34mm replacement, I went with their concentric hydraulic setup nice

take the spring off your shock, and check the top of the shock body itself. If it looks like a cap unscrews, they may be rebuildable you just might find those bushings at the hardware store, if you mean the ones on the sides of the lever the ball is a whole 'nuther story but it does look Ford I got a ball from Dave Bean several years ago that fixed my type 3 box

first, you need to know if your shocks are rebuildable at all. Can't tell from the pics. Do they have a top that can be removed, or just a welded cap? I checked into it a few years back, mine were not serviceable, but new ones weren't much more than rebuild would have been. I called Spax on Monday, had them Thursday. I believe Spax has a deal plan for the Westfield club, you'd think they do Cat too.

Re. upper arms the best way I've found to remove a ball joint/tie rod end is to whack it with a dead blow hammer. in your pic above, you want to hit it down on the end of the upright what you'll do is compress the sides of the tapered hole just a bit, and it will squirt the stud out. don't worry about distorting the hole, the stud being inside will prevent that leave the nut on, in case you miss I'm assuming the lower arms have want they call a silentbloc or metalastic bushing in them. This is an inner and outer steel sleeve with rubber molded between them. Bolt thru center and outside presses into end of arm. For the bolts stuck in the bushing, your only choice may be to put a big bar on the bolt, and just rip the rubber center out. For replacements, call Eileen @ GMT Racing, she can send you a list of the sizes they stock -about 20 -in your neighborhood, and good folks

mine met up with a hole saw... that's not the bearing, it's the front part of a 2 piece shaft, identifies it as later production

My experience with header wrap............ When I bought my pre-lit the first time, it was hot in the footwell, so I wrapped the header. When I bought it back 5 years ago, the wrap was still there. 25 years It was getting crunchy, so I peeled it off in order to measure for building a new one, since primaries are very small. SUPRISE it's as good as new, except that it's now got a green hue to it. It's chrome plated, must have been a reaction between wrap and plating I always heard wrapping would cause a header to rust out, but not this one. Maybe the plating saved it, maybe not. It's also pretty thick gauge tube. I'll wrap the new one as well, really helps with foot temps, and paint with Eastwood paint

I'm assuming you're rebuilding an "uprated" engine--711M block, but if it happens to be an old "cortina" block, I have a set of Hepolite 10.5 compression .040 over pistons that need a new home Charlie

all of them I've seen were DIY

I just made a mount for my engine stand. A piece of tube to fit stand with a plate welded on end, drilled to bolt on side of block. Put it on left side mount, and you can spin the motor and get to everything. Using the shipping stands seems like a real PITA, especially for getting at the pan gasket. Charlie

North West Propshafts is the place !!! I emailed them and they said type 9 sure, which flange is on your "english" axle? I didn't know it was multiple choice, but they sent me a sheet with possibilities. Measured it up and got it figured out. All they needed was: type 9 which rear flange length from trans seal to front of diff flange When I ordered it, I asked about delivery time, and the guy said "they'll probably build it tonight" So, in about 5 days I got a shaft, from folks who really know how

Anyone got a recommendation for a supplier? Need to connect a type 9 box to an English axle I know if I go to my local shop, their eyes will just glaze over when I say "English axle" NWpropshafts seems to be the place, if you're on that side of the pond. Charlie

mine measures about 3" are there different heights, as well? my front air cleaner is 1/2-3/4" above the top frame rail the Burton pic looks like mine you could also check with pierce manifolds--on the west coast--they are weber folks Charlie

forgot to mention...the BH3 takes a Lucas bolt pattern starter, not the "pinto" style