7Westfield

those banjo fittings are for AN cut the bubble off and use a AN nut + sleeve I have never seen a banjo for a double flare

A bubble flare on a line will take a special banjo fitting, prob from an old brit car. They are bigger than the AN ones, cast brass. they really are an ugly thing to behold In the pic at top, I'm guessing the threads into the valve are 3/8-24, so you need 2 3/8 to AN3 banjos and banjo bolts, and copper seal washers. If threads turn out to be 10mm, banjo bolts are available, but check thread pitch carefully. Then turn the lines out thru the tunnel and put AN3 flare nuts and sleeves on job done you will need a AN flaring tool--they are Not the same as a regular auto tool, they flare at 37 degrees instead of 45 and AN is a single flare, not double I have an older flaring tool from Speedway Motors part # 91089528, but for light use 91089520 should do you fine fittings from Pegasus 3265-20 3241-3/8 3242-001 3235-030 STL 3236-03 STL

probably little diff as to vibration I prefer AN/JIC for everything except my daily drivers--it's just easier to deal with, lots of adapter fittings, etc. And you can buy premade flex lines in a wide variety for instance, my Westy came with a mix of English bubble flares and JIC anything I have had apart is now AN and the formula fords are all AN

Remember that if you use AN fittings, the flare angle is different. AN uses a 37 degree single flare, with a nut and sleeve, not your typical 45 degree double flare brake line It's all easy enough, just be sure to have the right bits

pressure sender needs to match the gauge doesn't care what engine I'm going to be talking to a FF engine builder this weekend, I'll ask him if he's interested

Yes, they run stem seals Sounds to me like you have worn intake guides, so a set of seals may slow down the smoke, but only a valve job is a sure cure. At least seals are a fairly easy job When you do go for a valve job, send it to someone who knows this engine--your local machine shop is likely to muck it up Sender for oil gauge is my first suspect on that issue

+1 for Damperman + company I don't know if it was him I dealt with, but 8-9 years ago I needed shocks for my pre-lit, which I had just bought back. Called a US dealer and was told "those part numbers aren't on my list". So, I got up early on Monday morning and called Spax direct. Whoever I talked to said -we have one pair in stock, take about 7-10 days to get the other pair made up. I said fine, send 'em when you can. I got them Thursday....and saved about $300 from US pricing

If you just want to replace the zerk, it wouldn't be a surprise if it's just a 1/4-28 thread, very common size Otherwise, they are listed by cup OD and width across the outside of the cups it might be same as an MGB- don't know about Morris, but Ford diffs came with several different flanges or yokes

anyone need a cortina xflow head? I've got one I'll never use make me an offer

turns out it's probably not an Arnie motor after all wrong paint job so, I'll get it dynoed and see what it does then for sale

Several people around here have used a V6 from a Camaro, something like 3.1 or 3.4L IIRC in MGB's might be too tall for a 7, but worth putting a ruler on one--also check trans width

another lost art............ I can recall taking wheels to a shop that would cut the center piece loose, and install a new outer--any width or offset you wanted

Why not run a heavy lead to a new fuse panel, with 4-6 circuits?

these things are wonderful you can even get squares + rectangles https://www.ebay.com/itm/395511275921?_skw=chassis+punch+7%2F8&itmmeta=01J7HP4VBXTEZPZ807RPH7XJGK&hash=item5c164f2191:g:~eUAAOSw~~Rmha4U&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA0HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKmn83xckk9EK9TJfe45wruyOj%2FRktZFNZuf8666GZ6X5xjdUAuB9lmL1cfUC7s8yVgTj4hzxu6Oh%2FArBctEQirZDPOtpYiy3psTAETCl8Oyjw0o51RbPmA3Mt6w0xwL0UD9D2rY%2Fg10cZrb5uQ7IDj3LhfGpBCgaqidaokKpTisfaDV%2BTs3UmRLJSiZuw5dyGV9PRdkRhLmxEahKlJFdrxLzJIK9IK%2FgTuQDFkz6R39QTMYVUKVSnSvECgdAxzXCbo%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4i2k7a8ZA&edge=1

I put one in the Westy, but up under the dash, on the firewall it's a combo lighter/usb

UNVERIFIED AS YET but, given that it's CA, no surprise

You can also use the highway mile markers to set it by mileage, that's how I did mine Use a 10 mile run--at 1 mile they aren't that accurate, but at 10 it averages out

One downside to 100LL is availability. It's illegal for road use, but there's a catch. Contrary to some beliefs, it is NOT illegal for an airport to sell it to you in a jug. Some airports try to tell you they can't sell it for non-aviation uses, but they can if they want to. There are some airports that try to deny sales, but they are uninformed, or just don't want the hassle of small sales. So, buy it in jugs and take it home, If using a self serve pump, do NOT fill the car while you're there, that will be trouble Tell them it's for a race car, or your generator A few years ago, I took a generator in for a carb tune---the guy said the carb was plain worn out, unfixable and unobtainium, but the cleanest one he had ever seen--most of it's life on avgas cuz that's what we had at the track We've run Formula Fords on avgas for years, but next year we will try pump 91 with lead substitute, mainly for convenience just pick it up when heading out for the weekend, and put the leftovers in the driver's 911.

I run 91 octane alcohol free, as I can get it easily here. I add lead substitute sporadically. Next time the head is off, it will get seats. Avgas does not contain alcohol, in general, they aren't going to allow that crap anywhere near an aircraft. But, there is a small group of aircraft rated for MOGAS. However, the FAA, and I assume CAA, are testing lead free fuels. 100LL is on short notice. The reason for keeping lead in avgas comes down to not wanting to mess with the storage and stability qualities. The engines have had hard seats for years. You should replace the rubber lines with something like Gates Barricade. I've not really heard of trouble with injected cars, their components should be new enough. Storage is the main culprit, so running the carbs dry over winter will help. The black goo some have seem is probably from hose breakdown, usually you see a white powder in the carb. Apparently alcohol doesn't play well with aluminum. Also, if you have a fuel cell, the older bladders and foam are not resistant.

already on it they seem a bit slow authorizing an account

If it's just the center electrode moving, I would think the ground electrode would keep it from falling out

don't know I used a Burton BH3 starter about 4 o'clock on intake side just checked pegasus--both have 110 teeth, but 2L ring gear is 10.12" ID 1600 is 10 So, I wonder what this flywheel I have came from...it measures up as a 2L, but has 135 teeth

Scott 2 liter flywheel won't fit a 1600 it bolts up, but just a bit larger ring gear, so you can't get the starter in

no plans at present what I got was a complete Lola T202, in boxes, virtually all new parts problem is, the frame is crap, between the damage and sketchy repair attempts I need to find drawings and specs before I can do anything

better than that, according to some paper with it, it's a fresh Arnie Lyoning FF build