7Westfield

I've not dealt with that brand of fire system, but it looks pretty generic Appears to be liquid agent, that small cylinder looks like nitrogen or CO2 to push the fluid out FIRST on the pull handle, there should be some way of making it "safe" probably a hole crossways to put a pin thru you don't want an accidental discharge-- After it's safe take off the 2 discharge lines, then the mounting straps, don't mess with the cable, just swing it all out of the way as a unit consider replacing that line with the 180 bend, it looks pretty close to being kinked shut

Pump in tank pretty common Westfield uses a Ford unit I think pump and gauge in common unit with some sort of twist ring retainer probably 3 wires in a pigtail pump,gauge,ground What kind of fire system pics? the ones we use on FF are pretty simple

Can you find a schematic for the car? Verify that 15 is the correct amperage Maybe it just needs a 20 you can also buy auto reset breakers that plug in

or you could just wire a toggle switch in parallel, to bypass it on track

I consider those blue fittings suitable only for PCV/vent applications or your lawn sprinkler

mine are mounted on the rear fender bracket they extend 4" from the bottom of the wing, and end up 4" off the ground

Yes but I still have to vacuum it after every autocross--lots of crap in the cockpit, and still rock pits on the rear fenders

I'm going to guess those are the same nozzles Costco has here I had issues a month ago with my Suburban, of all things the nozzles have a rubber boot around the pipe, which needs to seat on the filler pipe and seal if it doesn't seal, the auto shut off is confused totally out of the question for the 7 even if they had non alcohol, which they don't

For the clutch, take out one (or both) of those nuts behind the clevis To lower the brake, cut 1/4" off the pushrod, so it doesn't hit pedal Looks like you just need a different (longer) bolt to lower gas Re-adjust brake switch and throttle cable after heights are right

if for no other reason...they are a great shin buster !

A guy on the Westfield Club site in UK makes carbon ones probably $700-$800 a pair figuring shipping and tariffs

I've got an intake for an early xflow, the one everybody calls the Cortina engine Not as much flow as the later "uprated" model this is for the older engines with the combustion chamber in the head it has had some race prep done on it -port matching FREE to a good home, just cover shipping

How about Sprite/Midget brakes? They're in that size range. note--drums would need re-drilling

I own an 85, and I know of one other out of that original group over here There was a race shop in Minnesota that built a few of them over the winter, in order to keep the staff busy. I hope to run into him at a race this year, and ask about them. Interestingly, there was a discussion recently on the WSCC forum about front control arms, and it was pointed out that the second model, the SE, was what started all the legal flap. So, maybe ours are pre-pre-lits? LOL

fairly easy job I've also got an adapter I made years ago, by knocking the guts out of an old spark plug, and welding on a quick disconnect to match my air hoses

I tow a friend's Formula Ford in a similar trailer. I load it as far back as possible. Then several hundred lbs of "stuff" goes in cabinet at the front, and a rack above the car, roughly at the trailer axles. Never weighed it, but my guess is 4000 +/-. Towed w/ Suburban 2500 When I load the 7, it goes a bit farther forward, with the rear straps crossed in an X pattern. We just use a fixed length loop thru each front a-arm, and ratchets at the back I'd say start with the nose a foot from the front of the trailer, and work from there. When he quits racing later this year, I'll be using my little open trailer for the 7, prob just put a hitch on the Accord over the years, I've found the Sub to be real picky about rear tires. Get a set with weak sidewalls, and it can dance in a crosswind

Can you pull the dash, and go at it from that side? My Westy has the same number of rivets, and the silicone no way I'm ever going to take that apart but the dash comes right out

You have it backwards....flow is OUT to the heater from the intake manifold and back in at the pump fitting Using the gasket with no hole will be fine for no heater Just put a plug in the manifold, and another in the pump If you ever want to put the heater back, you'll just need a new gasket. Gaskets are still out there with holes, you can find the Fel-Pros online, and there are others or just punch a hole Formula Fords all seal that hole to keep the manifold cooler, we used to cut a piece of pop can and glue it in there to cover it before the newer gaskets came

Glad you found it, sounds like the KISS principle never made it to England

just stuff the tank with fuel cell foam, and switch to a tube type fuel level sender?

FWIW it will work on 4 cylinders, just double the 8 cyl reading

retroford lists one if you're willing to play all the tariff games

The only pix I found of a Duratec DS were belt drive... I hate to ask the obvious, but are you sure you have a dry sump system? Do you have a separate oil tank? Post a pic of your engine bay. The only case I know of a doubled "stock" pump is on air cooled VWs, they piggyback a second rotor on the front end. Hard to see enough room inside most engines to do that

There was a post on Westfield site a while back large one is 3/4 BSP small is either 1/2 or 5/8 BSP got a hydraulic repair shop near you? Pegasus has Dowty seals

Looks normal to me.....