Ian7

With all due respect, why do you think you could make something more track-appropriate than your 911 twin-turbo out of a donor Mustang? ... unless you're just keen to fabricate stuff. V8 Mustang bits typically go into Cobra kits, not so much 7-esque chassis.

Agreed. Zoom in on those inlet trumpets, certainly seems.... suspicious?

assuming Weber dcoe's, yes, but lots of grief switching throttle linkage...

ditto

My 2002 version came pre-fitted as new from Caterham measuring 141 mm apart.

Thx, but give yourself more credit. A shock dyno (while invaluable in our race trailer) doesn't automatically tell you how to set dampers, all it's doing is telling you what forces the damper produces under what piston speed conditions. It's car behavior and what dynamic "evils" you are trying to cure that determines how you adjust the settings. It takes a lot of experience (with both dampers and the car in question) to be able to look at a damper plot and predict car behavior, or vice-versa. :-) Bolt the dampers on, go drive, make logical adjustments, drive some more, see where car is better or worse. A chassis engineer can help you make the logical changes, or you can trial and error it providing you maintain track and tire conditions constant throughout. Only if car gets better continuously and you run out of adjustment in one direction do you need to think about dyno's and revalving the dampers.

Did you get single or double adjustable? what was their "reasonable" price incl shipping if I may ask? thanks

how do you tie the car down with the e-track running laterally directly under the tires?

Yes, you need to assume the worst. If oil is getting to the outside edge of the gasket, you need to verify that water isn't getting in to the oil passages across a crack in the gasket you can't see. Check oil on dipstick for "milkshake" appearance regularly.

Pretty sure there isn't. I'd be more curious why pressure is driving oil out, maybe you want to look at your breather/vent configuration.

Post a "wanted" advert on http://www.apexspeed.com forums in the FFord section. If you can't, PM me the details, I can put it up for you.

I put a few representative numbers in just for grins, got some disturbing answers... use with caution. (which is the basic web mantra anyway, right...) :-)

http://www.autoblog.com/2010/08/31/donto-motors-p1-to-take-on-ariel-atom-ktm-x-bow/

Do you have dual-piston calipers (ie caliper fixed and pistons on both sides of disk move), or a simpler (cheaper) street car style where one piston moves and the caliper also moves on sliders? very common for that type of caliper to seize up on its bushings and not relax once applied.

.... a pox on all video driving games with 'reset' buttons, and Fast/Furious movie nonsense.... !!!

I've got $501 for the engine alone.... :-)

As I interpret your description, you have 40 heat cycles on 18 month old tires. I don't know the Hoosier A6's specifically, as we race on pure race slicks, but our tires are uncompetitive after a 4-cycle weekend. (yes four, not forty). Tires lose grip potential long before they look "worn out".... :-)

hmm, shoulda been a pic of a stripe-less black/alloy clamshell 7 there.

Since you're asking for opinions, and everyone else's including mine is wrong, leave the stripes for the tuner crowd and run the car plain. But I guess that's because my car looks like:

Call David Clubine at Britain West near you (tell him Ian says Hi)

never mind

never mind

Curious, why the change? as a previous "upgrader" from a seven clone to a Caterham, I wish I'd saved the money, not better-enough for the $$$ difference :-)

Any place that sells Formula Ford stuff will have it, and know exactly what you need (there's only one version); BAT, Jay Ivey, Transatlantic, Dave Bean, Ted Wenz, etc depending on where you live.

p.m. sent about distributor. by the way, if the wheels don't get snapped up here, post on apexspeed.com in the formula ford section, they'll sell in the first hour :-)