Ian7

@ $7295 I'm guessing very early 70's ?

SOLD, thx USA7s

would he/she be willing to eventually share details of the impending importation, the highs and (hopefully no) lows? thanks

sold, thanks.

only the jack on left and handle on right now available.

did you try Ted Wenz across town here at Savannah Race Engineering? they do (did?) lots of Formula Ford in their day, still do vintage..... tell him Ian sent you please

well, sure isnt a spool, but gotta say I've never seen a diff like the photo you posted :-)

gaskets SOLD

lots of questions about bushings, here's a photo of what I have.

UPDATED 11/28 Going through a box of Caterham spares, and found all this which in truth I'll never get around to needing; any interest in some or all? - vacuum advance dizzy with cap, used, unknown history. - steering rack gaiter/bellows, new - rubber boot seal for end of anti-roll bar fitting - four DCOE main jets #115 - GENERIC SCISSOR JACK AND HANDLE - FOUR sections of fender beading, from 32" to 55" - 6pc live axle bushing kit - MISC ELECTRICAL HARNESS END FITTINGS - TWO TEMP SENSORS, ONE ADAPTER-TO-BLOCK FITTING - 3/8 R thread acorn wheel nuts, qty 6

yes, a spool is locked solid, zero differential action. if, and that's IF it is a spool, its the last thing you want on a street 7, or even occasional track day 7... spools are for high power cars under unique conditions; all you'll do is wear out tires and understeer yourself into frustration

was something else removed before taking the photo? if that is an open diff, where are the spider gears? earlier poster suggested a spool, that's my vote too; no LSD there, I'll bet its solid.

maybe from Victoria British?

sale pending......

Lotus Twin Cam was a 1558cc Cosworth did the iconic BDA 1600 race engine, and a milder street version called the BDR (R for road as I understand it)

absolutely true in my case :-) and nearly went blind from all those TINY screws LOL

it's a BDR twin cam

bonnet removed to show BDR detail

SOLD. thx

Absolutely ! Tire temp is more important than maximizing the size of the contact patch. And while big HP may heat up big rear tires somewhat, the lack or weight and lack of downforce on the front of a 7 will always give terminal understeer if over-tired.

New ARP bolts are cheap insurance, especially if you don't know the history of the existing ones. Never oil threads, they varnish and seize. Use "never-seize" or "copaslip" compound instead(but don't mix the two!) Hylomar on the intake gasket is a good idea, and the center bolt is blind, so no seal required. Most guys blank off the center water feed to the intake manifold anyway, its just there to help prevent fuel icing in the original street car applications. Unlikely your 7 sees temps that cold?

yes, the male splines on the back of the gearbox shaft are a simple sliding fit into the female splines at the front of the driveshaft. Rig up something to "catch" the front of the driveshaft as the gearbox separates from it. Depending on specific model, there could be several inches of movement before they separate.

Not sure if this was asked yet: is the whine new, ie did the sounds change/develop over time, or been there all along? or if the car is new to you,I agree with the straight cut comment. I put a straight-cut Quaife in my car from new, and as expected, it whined a bit in all gears except the direct, and neutral whine was less than "loaded" in gear whine. Pop the top cover off and look inside.....

similar dilemma with a formula ford years ago we pushed the car up the ramps backwards (heavy end first) until the first contact, then three of us lifted the front up and pushed it in ok, so the front of a FFord is maybe 300#, but how many guys would it take to lift the back of a 7 if the fuel tank was empty?

Try Dave Clubine at Britain West Motorsports, they run Formula Fords, etc, a 7 would be a no-brainer for them.