MV8

It sounds like you grounded then applied power to pin 3 and 6. It's possible damage occurred to the gauge if you did this to pin 6. Good luck.

Auto shops should have torque sticks. They are color coded extensions that limit the applied torque to a specific value. I have a set but rarely use air at all. Most auto shops use specific capacity impact wrenches and limit the psi available but that is not always the case. A standard socket extension doesn't work with air impact wrenches which is why you see some impacts with an extended tip. FAA repair station personnel must meet the requirements of the maintenance manual for the article, their own approved or accepted manuals, and 14 cfr 145.109 among other things. This means checking the cal due label and condition before each use. There are differences in the rules for UK, EASA, Singapore, etc. Usually, they are calibrated/tested once a year or if there is a problem with an article, the tool was dropped, the label is lost or illegible, etc. Ideally, the tools used are tied to the work order for the article so all can be checked if there is a problem and any work recently performed with the tool can be rechecked. Calibration may be contracted out or they can setup a calibration department in-house. Traceability, standards, and record keeping. An independent FAA aircraft mech (often operating out of a truck and putting his certificate on the line with each sign off) has similar rules.

Are you replacing a speedo that stopped working or retrofitting? I don't know why you would check pin 3 or 6 when the input is on pin 7. Put it on stands so the rear wheels can turn for testing (no need to spin faster than idle in first), then input PPU half of what you calculated, then drop by a thousand until you get an indication. 1000 ppm with no indication and the gauge is likely junk.

There are many ways to prevent fasteners from backing off. The simplest is to use specialty (ramp) lock washers that require more torque to loosen than tighten. These are used to hold the prop on many light sport aircraft.

I don't have a CDI product. I have a large amount of Craftsman tools that I stopped buying when they hassled me on my rare and infrequent replacements. I also have Mac, Snap on, Kmart had a very good quality set, Husky are well made, and others. I also have some HBF specialty tools. Tool makers put a number of different names on their tools. I was given a 100 or so piece set from Husky that comes in a suitcase years ago, and I use that 95% of the time out of convenience. Some break when I push the limits of common sense and replacement is just like Craftsman used to be. No receipt. I have beam and click torque wrenches from 1/4 drive to 3/4 drive but normally use the clickers. I keep them clean, store them with a small amount of torque set (slight tension), treat them like glass and only take them out when needed so they never get dropped. I use the wrench that will be set in the middle of it's range for the torque needed, and torque to the low-middle of the tolerance for the fastener. You mentioned you have your wrenches calibrated. How far out of spec have your torque wrenches been? Had they been dropped or banged around? When calibrated tools are checked out of a tool crib for use by an employee (could be a 100 use it in a year), annual calibration is more important. When a company can show repeated calibrations without an adjustment required, those calibration intervals can be extended.

I was checking out your pics. The sandwich adapter can be just a remote adapter where the filter can also be remote and most any size you'd want. Just fyi as it looks very tight stacking the sandwich and the oil filter. Make sure it is replaceable without unbolting and lifting the engine. You can mark the new required bonnet opening, make a new line 3/8" forward of that as the actual cut line, cut a 3/8 deep slot a 1/2 inch from the end of a six inch long by 1/2 inch wood or uhmw or nylon dowel rod, then us this as a tool to tediously work up and down the cut bending 30 degrees each time until it is rolled enough to flatten against the inside of the bonnet.

Looks like you lift the U shaped piece to release (below the A in AMP in your pic) but it's hard to tell from one pic.

The hump just brings the body out to meet the wheel center and helps the body support the spare weight (no frame members in the middle) but doesn't support the rim directly. There should be a metal plate behind the glass with wheel studs to engage the two lugs and rack arms on each side under the tire to support it. The arms are important. You'll probably need to have these parts fabricated locally using your car and spare as a hands-on reference.

Are you asking where the TS flasher is for a '95 Cat? Flashers usually work or they don't. It sounds like you have flashers where the load determines the flash rate. You could install "long life" bulbs that usually slow the rate or an "electronic" flasher that has a knob to adjust the rate (suitable for LED conversions). There are different types of electronic flashers that fit the same socket but are not interchangeable. That was a different topic.

I would probably go with two air cleaners using pleated paper filters for DCOE applications and shorten the air horns as needed. You could put the air temp anywhere near the filters, maybe hang it on a small triangular, .050" thick tab bolted on with two bolts. GM as in General Motors spec components often used with msq. Your photo of the TBIs posted yesterday shows them to be Kehin but it doesn't really matter who cast them. Keihin is a competitor of Mikuni for many decades. I suggest getting it running and driving as is, bonnet off, then start making modifications as needed.

The column clamp section is just like a '70s Triumph. The grub is just tight enough to take up any looseness (no relative motion between the upper and lower column when turning back and forth). Hold the grub with an allen key to prevent it turning when tightening the jamb nut holds it.

Looks like air temp. It would be a bad place to use for barometric pressure. I assume this system is diy with keihin and gm spec parts for the msq. To know what it is, trace to the ecu pin them check the software pin assignment. Most diy systems don't have it but there is no reason to pull it when you have a complete, working system. It is kept clean by the filter. It doesn't look like it and the backing plate prevent using individual filters.

I assume you are talking to Carl about his motor. CS alts are not crack prone. Alts are rated for temporary max output, not continuous, so if you don't have efi and a high output cooling fan, 55amps is probably ok, but not optimal if you try to drive with a dead batt after a jump start. Any other time it is sufficient and the alt life should be ok.

In review, the system now works the way it should but you have a cooling issue from the temp rising well above the stat temp. A lower temp stat doesn't fix that. Duratecs typically have an oil cooler plumbed into the cooling system as original equipment from Ford and Mazda I guessing you do not. I pic of the left side of the block should reveal this. The oil filter mount on the side of the block is different for oil cooler equipped duratecs. The cooler sits on top of it and is plumbed with heater sized hose. If it were an airflow issue, temps would drop at highway speeds. We also don't know that your existing radiator, fan, and ducting are adequate for this engines output. Each HP is so many BTU to manage. The oil cooler may be enough.

Parts are always available just as everything is for sale with enough money and effort. Any S1-4 Seven is "sustainable" with enough effort. Retrofit as needed. IMHO, the easiest to sustain (parts and rebuildable as well as reusable components) and most practical drivetrain for regular road touring use (no track) would be the newest model you can find with a wet sump, ford crossflow engine with a single downdraft carb or aftermarket efi, electronic ignition, T9 5 speed and ford solid axle.

Never mind. I missed the part where it is still working so I assumed it was coming off. The hard part if finding one that will bolt-on and for that you will probably need to take it off to measure. Also check the clocking of the attachment lugs (usually on the front half of the case). The rear half with the electrical connections can be reclocked relative to the lugs if needed for wiring clearance to the block. Pulleys can usually be swapped for different belt types.

Buying an antique without the knowledge, equipment, work space, or known support system to maintain it, does not sound trouble free. You could get lucky and buy something perfect but it will need work at some point. Go to car shows and connect with antique car clubs in Vancouver for local support. Talk to the folks that you want to trust to do the work to find out what they are competent/comfortable maintaining.

No need to lose the warning lamp. A standard, oem ALT can be wired to be "one-wire". If there is no clearance to the header issue, I suggest a similar sized case replacement versus a mini. The GM CS series ALTs are very good but any domestic oem, internal regulator ALT that fits the bracket and belt would be fine. They can have up to four small wires, usually three, but only one is required and it can be for a warning lamp. The geo metro ALT (an oem mini, low output) is popular. Post a pic of the ALT installed. Header clearance?Tensioner or slotted arm? Vee or flat 4 or 6 groove belt? Distance between pivot center and center of adjustment slot if equipped?

The warning lamp and voltage sensing are normally the same lead. A single, heavy gauge lead is normal instead of two, thinner leads.

PM sent.

Tubing failure from heat is more likely with wrappers who have: thin wall cheap headers, power adders, tuning issues from excessive compression on pump gas(zero or retarded initial timing and less than normal to stay out of detonation on the top end), burned or poorly sealing exhaust valves, too lean, retarded timing, etc to burn residula fuel in the header instead of the engine. The result is abnormally high header temps (glowing headers). Wrap turns the tube into a kiln, driving the tubing temp much hotter since it can't radiate.

Yes. Ford did not use that engine in vehicles sold here.

How is that build topic coming along? Oem mikuni mpfi with no plenum sounds ideal.

Wait.

Besides offsetting on the rails, you can shim the bottom of the front of the tracks so the seat rises as it moves forward like most oem seats, then shim the back of the seat above the tracks to bring the seat installed angle back to where it would be normally. Swivel cup washers or tappered can be used for the bolt seats if needed.