MV8

You're welcome. Be grateful for the effort. Another set: https://www.ebay.com/itm/256192542635

Those that I mentioned (all fwd Zetecs) have the coil packs in the same area. It occurs to me this may be a hodgepodge of parts, but a set of returnable cheap wires from the local parts store might be a good way to confirm fit.

Coil on plug is duratec. Euro zetec had the intake on the other side compared to domestic zetecs.

That engine is usually called the "Zetec" from 99-04. Contour/focus/escape/tribute applications. Might want to add a breather tank to the shelf to vent the crankcase.

For easier filling without back splash, I would cut and shut the tank filling vent (#2), then refit the elbow higher, into the bell and extend the tube to reach the existing hose. Then the end of the pump nozzle should extend past/ below the tank filling air vent but below the unleaded restrictor plate (if equipped). The small tank vent should stay separate from the tank filling vent or a float/check valve added. Fuel rail return to the filler neck instead of the tank is common on efi retrofit, preferably with a bend inside pointing down to the tank for less aeration. A 5/16 bolt long enough to have a 1/2 inch long unthreaded shank would work well (cut threads off with a hack saw) to replace the screw plugging the return hose or use a rod (bare or zinc plated steel) from the hardware store, cut to length, and radius the end to prevent cutting the inside of the hose. Most rubber barb caps are made for vacuum systems and will fail quickly is exposed to fuel, so use a short piece of fuel hose. If you reuse the existing hose, make sure it is still soft and flexible.

The sleeve should be sticking out from the frame when tight. You need enough washer/shim or longer sleeves. I'd use a washer the same id as the sleeve and not worry about a little wear to the sleeve end from being loose.

The bottom bolt is too short. Is there a washer added between the link rod end and the coilover? Definitely need a shorter spring.

Those springs are lightened as much as possible with wider than typical gaps. This makes them twist more and have a shorter service life. Smaller diameter also has a shorter life than say a 2.5 id due to a greater degree of wire twisting in use. Just fyi.

How did Cory determine those coilovers to be close enough to replace what you have? Did he have specs/part numbers for the originals or take one off the front and the rear then take the spring off to measure? Hopefully not just "eye balled". Were the original coilovers leaking? Just as an fyi, but I did not use a website to guess-timate your spring rates; just your measurements and "maths".

Order a few based on the wire braid OD. Two clamps bolt together with one bolt, end to end or back to back when close together. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ms21919wh.php?clickkey=3764

No first-hand experience on this drive train, but most vehicles have a steel plate between the transmission bell and the engine block. The plate installs between the flywheel and block. You will also need to support the trans (lifting up) so all the weight is not on the input shaft, then wobble the tail housing around in a circular motion as you pull. I like the drawer slide and threaded rod pedal adjustment.

With looking further into it than what you've posted, the title could be for a donor vehicles components. Typically, the HP wants to check and see if the serial numbers match the document and are not listed as stolen. A vehicle new enough to require a title can be sold without a title and bonded. The details vary....

Nice project! Thanks for the pics. Probably just need seal kits for the all the hydraulics as well.

The lump in the main case makes the left side stick out 98mm from the shaft centerline; 82mm on the right.

Ditto. It sounds like you need a momo six hole "touring weld-on" adapter and have the three hole "formula weld-on". I expect the only difference is the hub pattern with the same weld-on shaft for both.

01-08 Ford Escape or Focus, 2.0l and 2.3l.

I'm guessing 5/16-24 thread master cylinder and a 5/16 hole in the pedal: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/clevises/id~5-16/shank-thread-direction~right-hand/shank-thread-size~5-16-24/shank-gender~female/

The coilovers are fully adjustable. No need to cut springs and they do not look cut. The allen screws are loosened so the upper seat is free to rotate on the threaded damper body. The allen screws do not need to be very tight to keep the seat from rotating. I suggest leaving the springs as-is and adding an anti-roll bar to the front.

There probably are seats you can fit to run a 2.5 or 2.625 id, 10 inch spring as stiff as you want. 1.875id is near the max rate available at 500#. You are not limited to using QA1 springs.

At 1.875" id, the rate would be 500# per inch. That is not the wheel rate.

Best guess based on what I see, a typical inside diameter of 2.5 inches, and the rough measurement (probably 11.07mm wire), these are 250# per inch.

Measure the wire thickness with a common, 6 inch dial caliper and post what you find. It can be done without disassembly and the caliper is about $20 off ebay or harbor freight. I've used them side by side with $600 aviation calipers to compare accuracy.

Sounds like stuck rings to me. A few hot, high load/full throttle pulls through the rev range may help, along with flushing and a fresh oil change if it has been a few years. If only the stem seals were missing but otherwise in good condition, I would expect a little smoke on cold start up that is too little to be seen/minimal once warm.

I figured it was like that. Shops usually get take-off parts for free and put in cages to sell. Used to be super cheap before they started going to ebay after the cage was full.