MV8

A little waxoil or straight boiled linseed squirted into each open hole. It gets thick and gels as it dries. Prevents rust too.

Lightly push the head from the side with a flat blade screw driver, tilt the drill to one side, light pressure, high speed.

Unless there is tire damage or rolled cold to where the bottom is now under the string, tire bulge is fine for string alignments. The string is set as high as possible/close to the wheel CL. Nice, simplifying tool AP. Great for enthusiasts who don't want to do the math with $20 worth of tools but can't get an alignment shop to use the customers specs and possibly cheaper as well. Should be close enough with a good phone and cal.

He has wear to one tire. Toe would result in feathering to both front tires.

Since it is limited to one tire, it sounds like camber (tapered wear across the tread to where inboard or outboard has tread, but the other side has less) or blown damper (cupping wear around the circumference). A $12 digital protractor can be used to check the camber on each side relative to a centered horizontal surface (windscreen top/cowl/chassis cross rail) since it won't be on a rack. After camber is set, the toe would be adjusted.

Parts only. "Certificate of Destruction". The vin cannot be rebuilt.

Traditional seats (two squabs and a back rest panel) offer the most room but no head rest or adjustability. There are like boat seats with a wood or chip board base, high density foam (at least 5#, 2 inch bottom, one inch back) and marine vinyl wrapped and stapled on the hidden side with velcro strips like an airliner seat cushion. A local upholstery shop could handle that.

Who doesn't love cheese?

If the noise is not very loud and goes away with light clutch pedal pressure, I doubt any action should be taken and you can live with it until the next clutch replacement. Replacement of the release bearing involves engine removal. You could post an audio clip or link to a video to share the sound. I'm South of you. If you are still concerned enough to bring it down one day for a brief examination (with PM coordination, no charge and no motivation to sell a service or joy ride). I'm sure there are folks like that around Chattanooga, but I don't know any.

The same could be said of any modern car, which are less long-term sustainable than older cars. I don't know why anyone would need anything directly from caterham to maintain a conservative design, fair weather car. Anything that cannot be made or repaired here, can be upgraded. Probably the biggest issue is finding competent, local support. I think the problems you are reading about are mostly from buying a car that has not been maintained, modifications, racing abuse, a few parts made complicated in an attempt to make them proprietary, and lack of support for cars made in the last ten years by not sharing service info in the form of schematics. I expect the electric will take lessons from Tesla to be more proprietary than ever when it could be so simple with standard components and no middle man inserted to prevent or authorize component replacement. A 5spd with an '80-90s design domestic, mass produced engine and efi with drum rear brakes should be the most practical and trouble free car imho. Practical (heater,wiper, quiet, mild tune, pump gas) helps to ensure regular use. Sitting for six months at a time isn't good.

Looks like about $1000 for front wings to your door, but colored gel coat with no need to paint.

New glass wings would also require sanding if they will be painted. I expect a Caterham dealer could import wings for this. Clean well with acetone before wet foam block sanding with 220. Cracks should be ground out (dremel works well) then filled with catalyzed gel coat. Rattle can sandable high build primer, wet sand 400, reprime, light mist/fog contrasting primer evenly from about two feet away, wet sand off all the contrasting primer. Your painter should be satisfied with that. An oscillating 5 inch sander with velcro discs will save a lot of elbow grease and cost about $50 combined.

You might check to see if the crank is centered in the chassis (affects lateral ujoint angle). It could be the opposite side needs the shim or it should be split. Longer bolts. No need for loctite. Also sent you a pm a few days ago. Popup blocker?

Looks like a stuck outer piston and someone tried to loosen the dragging brake (maybe on the side of the road?) with a screwdriver. You could reinstall the caliper without the pads and pop the pistons out far enough to pull with the brake pedal applied or with air to see how bad it is before ordering parts. Brake clean aerosol and emory cloth for minor clean up. Lube pistons and seals with brake fluid and start them by hand. If they cock and won't rock back easily, apply air or pedal to push them back out a little.

Regular people get sued all the time for nothing (deposed and discovery), much less those that make something that will be subject to scrutiny in case of a future accident. Doesn't matter if it was made and given away for free. The plaintiff doesn't need to be the person it was given to. I wonder if "eggshell skull" doctrine would apply to someone who had a cardiac from being pissed that their car would not shift properly. There I go joking again! This is something that could be made easily using the installed trans, shifter, and tunnel cover with shift boot for reference.

I suggest asking AP for the reference document or a way to access it online for future inspection and maintenance. Carbon discs aside, I found nothing about rotor wear limits in their catalogue. It may be best to say, I contacted the manufacturer who provides these specifications. However, if there is any damage to the surface that would require turning, I would have the rotors are replaced".

Yoga mat cut to shape. Can also be covered and hemmed by your local upholstery shop.

A remote controlled motion sensor as a standalone alarm or add-on trigger for a standard alarm would go off if someone reached in. Small, often adjustable sensitivity, minimal armed amp draw. A good alarm can message you and go off or not warn the perp and record video.

I think I have the answer for the inspector. Unlike oem discs on mass produced vehicles which are intended to have a long service life, these discs are specially designed and heat treated for racing and are never to be machined/turned or have a similar length service life. There is a wear limit. It is the nominal specification in the catalogue. Any thinner and they must be replaced. Not repairable by machining thinner. There are also carbon discs but they do wear thinner with use and have built in wear indicators, similar to tires. A "vented" rotor refers to radial holes/gaps between solid inboard and outboard friction surfaces. You have vented front rotors. The drilling and slotting of friction surfaces is something else and is sometimes done to solid or vented rotors.

Message "Coffee Break" He may be able to help. https://usa7s.net/ips/profile/1054-coffee-break/

What is the issue? Temp gauge not working? I don't know what the blue line is from the previous post. I guess shows cold but actually hot?

Apparently, this information is stamped on the outside edge of the disc. I know Brembo etches their rotors. Scrub it. https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/226867-ap-brake-disc-thickness-cp3707-103p/

I don't know what brakes are installed on your cat, but it sounds like rotors that are "racing only". If it has basic brakes, the rotors would likely be for a '70s Triumph Spitifire and should have discard limits on the inboard side of the hub: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1278968&cc=1279919&pt=1896&jsn=397&_nck=RaosfcaC2rGsyaDO5wlVVEZqgf1rMDVjY0i1RdkJs5pvjGfBKOiwpBt27aYgFrhIDezeZhyXxNlVlnNbAlN%2BBOyHtTLpKKLXavhQbhyfuDuEkbeHQsa94SioLryDREgOWlHG079ZdJv4BM29IUxbW4dcATsheQZYxX%2FR%2Fq0Jqd1qDAvgU%2FOrBP3D7pVyI2XGk46KhyxqVKPXP1c5wH9Pz4NhhwTmInKPYAuvkjL68HSJIq0%2FZ%2B4kIs1uTh9kFcUctudkhZVngW68ZX09xR1vYtsZ%2B75hxGJgB6LAcx3rdrWx9IQ9f86ADQ%3D%3D Brake wear limits are not provided in the owners manual and usually only indicated on the rotor itself. You could replace a few components to fit standard model, road legal rotors.

I suggest the miata based USA zero self build, but fit the SVO engine and T5, using a 1994 or newer miata diff and suspension and a cut down upper intake with the throttle body turned to the rear to bring the height down under the bonnet. You can route the tube between the throttle body and the turbo around the rear of the head, or toward the front for a front mount intercooler later. It will be easier to cool if you limit the boost and cleaner under the bonnet. I assume you have the oil cooler sandwich between the oil filter and block that will also help.

Post some pics of the area with the liner trim out for ideas on supporting the fill pipe (may need your own topic for that). Short as possible would be better. Modding the side filler or making a new side filler would be better still.