MV8

For reusable bolts, I usually torque to the mid-range with oiled threads, no washers to end up with one or two fewer threads to take the full load. I mentioned other plug designs where the electrodes are two or four on the sides versus the end.

That is what I mean by "indexed". Didn't realize you already had a gasket. It's better if the plugs clear and that future service can be performed by others without damage, and it is apart so it could be addressed, but as Red Green says, "Fixed is fixed". No judgment.

I think those are the correct plugs. You may want to index them, use a different type of tip, or grind a relief in the pistons because the head, deck height, and head machining along with the head gasket thickness have it sitting too close. You could also break a plug during removal or installation if a cylinder was on tdc, but you need to check the clearance first. Gets some clay from the hobby store and put lumps on the pistons, install the plugs fully and seat the head bolts without a head gasket. You can loosen the head a bit to rotate each cylinder to tdc then reseat. If there is a clearance issue, consider running a felpro standard thickness gasket versus a specialty laminated steel for raising compression. Compared the old one's thickness to the felpro advertised compressed thickness. Looking at the rusty gasket, it appears someone was running little to no antifreeze and those chunks could have blocked some of those small holes, causing an overheat like I described with the bigblock olds. Modern fasteners like head gasket bolts are one-time use because they are "torque-to-yield". Any fastener with a spec to tighten based on degrees of rotation is likely one-time use. They can snap just trying to remove them. STOP at the first "pop" on removal, then release the tension so they can unload, before continuing to remove them. Older engine head bolts are not stretched to yield and will likely strip the block threads before it will stretch to yield.

I'm guessing a diy 442, never vin'd. Fine if you want a race car. Probably all S10 components like the early stalkers but with off the shelf replacement wings and a widened nose.

There have different designs for the diff attachment. Some pics of the damage could be helpful. It's been discussed a few times. Has it been track use, run over something, new hard bushes that prevent the diff from rolling left and right over the bush?

Fabbed or repaired is likely your best bet unless you want to order from Caterham. What is wrong with the one you have?

The bracket goes on top of the fiberglass flange and the column clamp hangs from it.

Yes. Looks like he hooked up the lines backwards and crushed the element. Nobody's perfect...

Ground cleaning has come up a few times. Summit sells these for $100 or so under a different name. It is actually called a piloted ground bonding brush and run about $15. Quick, easy and effective. https://www.ebay.com/itm/290911383647?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20240131095853%26meid%3D9e13659b63bd4ed7ab1defca7adf2428%26pid%3D101949%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D290911383647%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2WithMLRV6RankerPricelessTop30Features&_trksid=p4375194.c101949.m162918&_trkparms=parentrq%3Acb95ad441900a54a36b228d3ffffdadc|pageci%3A9a5546e7-45e2-11ef-8605-0227691bfa2c|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage

Also, the clutch alignment tool sets cost about $20 if you can't make your own. They unclude the pin, various diameter ends to provide a close tolerance fit to the pilot bush/bearing for centering the pin, and sleeves with different tapers to engage the clutch hub. You could have also have loosely clamped the pressure plate for a test fit of the trans out of the car, then carefully pulled the trans to fully tighten the pressure plate and reinstall the trans.

Ted, it sounds like the assembly mech forgot to put oil in it among other things. I can't see the repair but if it was just a crack, the worst it would do is leak a little (versus drop all the oil suddenly). I'd use the repaired pan and fit a guard or lift the car an inch and realign.

I use a large, cheap plastic mirror and shine a flash light against it if a spot light is needed or hold a digital camera underneath to take a few pics. I keep the good pics on file for future reference. Same for appliances, mowers, hvac, etc.

Ed, no matter how good the reputation of a shop, you may end up with the newest addition. The broom handle behind the shoulders and through the coverall sleeves is effective. In aviation, they are called "flash light holders".

Those are not sealed connectors like bullets but you could tape them where they connect. The wire would be long for the front fender to unplug at the chassis under the bonnet. Dryer than a fender well at least.

That's possible, but I'd sand those areas down to the metal to be sure. Otherwise, you can contact each State it may have been originally titled in to request information on a vin registration or at least basic car info. After so many years of not paying ad velorem, many States purge from the data base but they may archive. It may be foiable but you'd need to pay for the research.

I will assume you are happy to splice in an assembled connector versus investing $$$ in the tools and extra pins to practice. You could also splice a length of wire and make the connection out of the wet area or use a two pin connector but clip the second lead up against the connector body (they also make blanking plugs for that purpose) or extend the ground to the chassis as well. You could also use standard, heat shrink bullet connectors and a short piece of electrical tape at the junction (five for 14-16ga for about $7 on ebay). https://www.ebay.com/itm/264755878814?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D267024%26meid%3D8b2065adeac545b4ab8d93c4fa620dac%26pid%3D101875%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D184667944441%26itm%3D264755878814%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4247815%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V2V4ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecallWithVMEV3CPCAuto%23HoldOutCpc&_trksid=p4247815.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A2647558788148b2065adeac545b4ab8d93c4fa620dac%7Cenc%3AAQAJAAABYCk%252BEYkE9MwKlxrUayjKrhLhBNc6OvLPrg34zQdvwtva%252FYyT1Rws7v7DAH8aow6919Myv274JEQnLymIrPbYDth8dZ8o3PrLSVjeDVAdVjlkmv5RL6Pkr8CgCyYO5d3CAeqaAAEZso0vtBCDrhs%252BDUm6Vmwt23hO8P5x5TRWWRdP3brCq0UDYXWKf%252FAEvFx6AzZroEvfiGsnJBV3M9SYPb%252F2z8V0DtY3n39kKMGjYobm%252BTye42IuoJEJBfTUrXO5AS9jk9WzkY7%252FkRqeTR0THvuo2EDbDtwtONjlqOCsd%252B4MS6ZAEG90cidHQAkt2nZT5L8sKC8ObWx%252Fnson8aQCMJtwQn2vKSfkf3IyEbavA8G3DRFLigwNYG6wrh442N%252BgG5tD5fyIsT9C1JiDRtKZUSi8NET4oeUnSvZEvRS3mBDFm5iVblbMIK%252BERCWW7H8gXXPfKU%252B0p%252Fht8S73WzwL2gc%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A4247815&itmmeta=01J26AJP1YEP31KMN7H31JPV75

I'd straighten the brake pedal off the car, then trim the left side of the throttle and the right side of the clutch pedal, then rivet on pads for the clutch and brake. For shielding suggestions, how about a pic of the engine bay near the front of the pedal box?

It sounds like from the location, that it is where it should be per Sterling but installed from below (housing and cover acting as a bowl versus from above as an umbrella). If so, it could be flipped and reinstalled from below with spacer blocks above the housing flanges. Sticker should always face up. Wiring should also run down an inch at the unit so water on the harness can not be guided into it.

Slowdude, I'll PM you. Croc, if the sterling immobilizer is installed in the correct location and orientation (per Sterling, not Cat), it isn't possible to catch any water. The board should be encapsulated anyway for outdoor use and humidity.

The load is just pedal and throttle return springs plus friction up until the pedal travel ends. Thinner cables stretch more with use. Cable also comes pre-loaded to eliminate the space between the strands that contributes to stretch. I found the bike brake cables to be thinner than oem throttle cables but they do work.

PM'd

If it won't re-arm and it won't crank then it sounds like the module is not wired correctly.

As an emergency, and assuming the cable (wire rope) has enough excess length that the pedal can continue to be the travel stop (not the butterfly end, so WOT may suffer slightly), you can use an electrical 12 gauge butt splice. Cut the insulation off with a razor, loop the cable through (cable passes through the tube twice) or run it out the the hole in the wall of the splice, then hammer flat on a hard surface followed by a small chisel to crimp. If galvanized cable, it would be easy to solder as well. Home Depot has 1/16" wire rope ferrules for but I think the od may be too big to fit.

Does the pilot screw adjustment do anything to improve the situ? https://www.mikunipower.com/PHH01.htm

It is apparent that they do not have an early, deep diaphragm kit for sale.