MV8

You didn't actually provide what I was asking for on June 11th, but your post seems to confirm the release bearing is too short/wrong type for the pressure plate resulting in the slave end of the fork being too far aft before any pressure is applied.

Look for stamping near either end of the flat, transverse steel panel between the masters and the fiberglass. Griston Engineering is one chassis builder for the S4.

Make sure you can get someone who will pick it up even if it doesn't roll or has damage (like the one I was looking at in Michigan). It can get expensive quick after winning a car that you can't move out of the auction yard right away.

It's interesting that the number is raised/embossed which takes special reversed stamps. I think this was number was posted before on the locost forum with the same question. How did you determine it is an S4 shell? There are several different makes of cars that closely resemble an S4. A pic of the chassis and body might help narrow it down.

Age and cleanliness matters. The sweet spot seems to be between 50 and 25 years old, going from Canada to the USA. Good links: https://www.helpspanish.cbp.gov/s/article/Article-278?language=en_US One person's experience: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgAinHyMU48 https://www.nhtsa.gov/importing-vehicle https://www.epa.gov/sites/default/files/2021-02/documents/form3520-1-2021-01-secured-enabled.pdf https://www.epa.gov/importing-vehicles-and-engines/importing-canadian-vehicles

Colors don't mean much. Sounds like it may be a kit car with a Brit engine wired like a Ford with creative color codes (no judgment!). Disconnect the negative battery cable. Unplug the inertia switch. Set the dvm to beep on continuity (when leads are touched together). Have someone hold one dvm lead to the inertia sw connector pin while you probe each relay socket to find the fuel pump relay. Pump driver at the pump should have two ecu wires, two for pos and neg pump, ground, and one from the relay through the inertia sw.

I assume there is another wire on the inertia switch that goes to either the relay, ground, or the ecu. I assume there is another wire on the pump that goes to ground or power. All we know from you posts is there is a wire between the pump and inertia sw that is yel-grn that can be for pump ground or power. Disconnect the battery negative terminal, then continuity check the wires at the inertia sw and pump to ground and post what you find. Does the sigma have two fuel lines on the fuel rail or one?

So many different ways. How about a lead-acid, 28 ah, 380 cca, 21.6 lbs, and $90? Two Walmart 14LA2 bike batteries in parallel. The thing about multiple batteries is that both should be the same model and in the same condition/age. There are always recommendations for best care of any battery type.

I was pleasantly surprised to find the Mazda 2 5spd (100 hp 1.5L mzr dohc vvt) I recently bought for my wife comes with a 180f stat, oem. No temp gauge though; just a blue light when cold and a red "call a tow truck" light. I will be adding a temp gauge.

I surmised the purpose of the module a few months ago with a related discussion. At least you guys on the inside (part time) should have access to the actual schematics. Very annoying when trying to figure these things out.

1&2) Batteries are a huge subject. Your cat should have originally come with a traditional, lead acid battery. They either had a small battery center mounted over the transmission with a 30 amp-hour capacity or side mounted relatively small battery with 47 amp-hour capacity. Replacements should have similar capacity to avoid jump starts which are not good for the battery or the alternator. 350+ CCA (not "hot" CA) is a good spec to compare. The more it has, the longer it will last/be adequate, apples to apples. A well maintained and regular use, fair-weather car may get away with a battery with less capacity. Agm batteries are a good upgrade if the capacity is the same or better. Lithium has serious fire hazards, fire extinguishing and environmental disposal issues to consider but they are light and compact. For lead acid and agm, a standard charger (i.e. analog with 2a/6a settings) can be used on the 2 amp setting if monitored. There are "smart" chargers that work well but in general, any charger should not be left on/connected for more than a day or so and at the minimum amp rate. To maintain the battery, a high quality "conditioner"/trickle charger should be used. Look at the motorcycle market for good choices. They usually come with a short wiring harness that attaches to the battery terminals with eyelets and an insulated, quick connect end that hangs outside or down in the footwell enough to connect when stored for months. The immobilizer is a small drain on the battery but an adequately sized battery without a "conditioner"/maintainer/trickle charger should not need a jump start after sitting a few weeks. A lithium jump starter should not be used to jump a low lithium battery. A completely dead battery should be charged and not jump started, which can damage it. 3) You can find small, plastic "dry box" or "ammo box" containers that can be mounted a number of ways and protect the contents from moisture. Screws through the inside with "fender" washers and a small pad lock make it relatively secure. I've seen a seven with one mounted under the bonnet on the footwell shelf.

The radiator outlet is opposite side of the engine pump inlet. Flex hoses are not made long enough so it acts as a splice between two hoses and also provides a convenient coolant drain point without pulling a hose or the nose off. Not elegant but practical.

I think standard replacement plastic stat housings are fine. Older, all metal engines are more forgiving of aggressive hose replacement, hose routing that is putting a side load on the barb, or overtightening when the o rings should be replaced. It is easy to break plastic by not lubricating the barbs when initially installing hoses or not rotating the hoses on the barbs to break the grip before removal. If a hose is being replaced, just use a razor blade to cut along the length of the barb to peel it off. 82c/180f stats: Stant 13978 or Motorad 5270180 or 270180, gates 33338 to name a few. If the stat fails closed, the fan may not come on automatically if the fan switch is in the upper hose between the stat and the radiator. The oem coolant temp sensor takes up the ideal location but you could tee into the bypass as close as possible to the stat housing to add a fan switch and a sensor for the gauge. It can be a suitable size pipe drilled and tapped as needed to fit both sensors. A single terminal sensor for a gauge will need a ground wire added to the pipe.

The master determines how much fluid is displaced. The line size determines how fast. This is one stroke, not a running pump where you can get more strokes in a period of time (that is how they are rated) with a bigger hose to run faster at the same pressure. One stroke is one stroke.

Oem engines run hot in part to improve emissions. A zetec stat starts to open at 95c and is fully open by 106c, with the fan on at 105c (221f) or if the AC compressor is engaged (necessary to ensure enough airflow across the condenser to aid control AC compressor head pressure, not engine cooling). I would run an 85c stat with a fan switch that opens at 90c and closes at 95-100c.

I think JB knows how it works . Looking at your pics again, despite the longer horns, it looks like there is just enough clearance for the unisyn base between the front horn and the wing. The tube rotates on the unisyn base and should always be vertical in use. The elbow to fit the other type of air flow meter appears to take up as much space as the unisyn base. A vacuum guage (with adjustable damper/restriction) connected to the unisyn base instead of the pellet tube may be more sensitive (less choking needed to provide an indication) and more accurate. A vacuum port between the carb and head would be much more effective and without choking. I'd either fit 1/4" carb spacers with vacuum ports or drill and tap the runners for standard, weber vacuum take-off fittings designed for the newer carbs, then add vac caps or plug the holes with screws when not needed. Quad vac gauge sets are very reasonable and let you see all the cylinders at the same time, unchoked.

AN size as in AN-3 or AN-4. Either works fine. Get a full engage before cracking the allens loose, even if you can only turn the wrench a little. Then switch to a wobble to spin it out. It looks like socket head screws are the only thing that would fit that intake. 12 point nuts on studs would be bigger in od.

Your air horns are longer than most.

Those rings are in fantastic shape. Easily resurfaced with "chrome polish" or other metal polish by hand. Like new and original. Looks like a typical motorcycle ring versus a buggy type. Looks like these rings may fit (different design bucket included). https://www.classicbritishspares.com/collections/triumph-electrical/products/universal-7-chrome-headlight-bucket-triumph-bsa-matchless-cafe-racer-custom or https://www.ebay.com/itm/355286584384?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1_pyzIYsrS9WUVYL_PFGUWg73&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=355286584384&targetid=4580702894586619&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640321&mkgroupid=1233652283797640&rlsatarget=pla-4580702894586619&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=4723886e962416b7c11eee075997b81e

I don't know which transmission he has in this one. The 2821E bell (twin cam application) requires the bearing spacer when used with a crossflow and I assume pre-crossflow). This combo is supposed to be common on the S4. There were a few other original mismatch combos.

What is the distance between the bell housing slave mounting boss and the release fork outboard and parallel to the pushrod? Senc can compare his or you can check the clearance with some one fully pressing the clutch pedal. I suspect this may be one of those applications that required a spacer on the release bearing. If so, and the spacer is missing, the fork may contact the rear edge of the bell housing window just as the clutch is almost fully released. This would explain the hard stop you were referring to before.

Even if the square tube were exactly the size listed (they never are imho), that's 0.010" clearance between them to rock back and forth and multiplied out to the diameter of the rim. Ideally there would be no clearance as there is now with a one piece shaft. It could be shimmed or blunted grub screws through nuts welded to the outer (no cushioning/compressing is the goal). The wall thickness of the square tubes should be 0.125" or more to help resist ovaling from steering input with a pot hole or bumping a curb. With these add-ons ("new" steel prices have increased greatly), the price is approaching DD, which is a solid inner and 1/4" or so wall outer and made to close tolerance specifically for this and probably a better, higher carbon alloy than square tube. Just wanted to share a little more about it than I had already.

Can we talk about this first? https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Double-D-Steering-Shafts/1513382/10002/-1

Is it 3.00"/76.2mm with a caliper or is it 3 inch with a tape measure? It makes a difference in how well they stay on if all you can find are snap-in. https://www.rhinotuning.com/collections/size

I immediately though of this (Andy Griffith, Barney buys a car) at the 2:15 mark: