MV8

You could fit hardware cloth/mesh to the scoop opening to catch anything big short of dirt/mud doubers in the garage. Maybe a new bonnet with a repositioned forward clamp and a notch for clearance instead of an opening where the air filters would need to be removed to remove the bonnet.

Who couldn't be #6? All the normal stuff but no connectivity or credit to function. An exercise for developing skill rather than the original story line of "prison" for opting out of an exit interview? Just a thought...

Seems pricey for a very nice, morgan-like structure of aluminum over wood sitting on steel rails. Looks spot on except for the nose mounting angle. Probably much less heat transfer to the driver but heavier. Not sure about the torsional rigidity.

Moboost's short K&N pleated gauze looks to be the best compromise short of a custom box for a filter aft of the carbs.

Location of the pressure cap and if the tank is vented determines if it is an "expansion" or "overflow" tank. An expansion tank could be completely filled, adding some volume to the system (requiring an overflow to be added to prevent coolant loss with each cycle) but it would no longer function as an expansion tank, which compresses air filling the space above the cold coolant in the tank. An overflow tank is just an open cup with a hose in the bottom to siphon if the end is kept submerged.

The Ford Workshop Manual for a vehicle that originally came with the engine you have. Aftermarket manuals draw from the oem manuals, which are usually about 3 inches thick and can be found second-hand on ebay.

I'm confused. You mention levels of an overflow hose, overflow bottle, and overflow tube. The hose should stay full, and the bottle should always have enough to cover the end of the hose and never be completely full.

It looks like the CSR has a notch in the frame to clear the pushrod with a higher leverage/ratio/lower effort (standard seven?) brake pedal, with the the brake pedal pivot about an inch inboard from where it is, in which case the offset brake pedal would make more sense. They may have reduced the pedal ratio for more brake feel/sensitivity and found the pushrod would foul the column, so they moved the new pedal over but the bends were overlooked. Could have been done with hydraulics but it would cost more.

From what I've seen, it appears to be the typical early seven heater but it mounts below the shelf (inside the footwell) instead of on top of the shelf. basically a spitfire rectangular heater box with the short ends open, and the fan motor and pipe fittings protruding through the fiberglass shelf which kicks up to provide room for it above the footwells and tunnel.

https://thehill.com/policy/technology/282860-commerce-approves-domain-name-transition/

The poly bushings should include a small tube of clear, thick, tacky gel. It is necessary to fully coat the bushing od and id. Because it is very thick and sticky, the gel does not wash out if driving through puddles. They don't usually need to be recoated for the life of the poly bush.

Most of the bushes are bonded rubber (no thrust flanges) with very little compliance and add to compression and rebound damping when torqued at ride height. They are nothing like most oem rubber bushes (which tend to have very thick walled rubber for things to move around) and very hard to beat. I've had poly crumble to dust after so many years where rubber may crack from age but still be usable.

If the shaft rotated one direction, the sintered bush oil would work much better but the constant direction change and lack of seals make grease more effective. If using oil, consider a heavy weight lube 75wt or thicker. There are special "grease-like" oils for sintered when the rotation constantly changes. Grease in general is essentially thickened oil. A grease fitting in the center of the rocker would be nice. A machinist can cut replacement bushes from delrin rod, thinner wall to fit an oversize center pin for more bearing surface for the same load on the pin and less likely to spin the pin on the bolt if the bolt is not as tight as it should be. The center pin can also be machined for a flat and the rocker drilled and tapped for an allen bolt to engage the flat, preventing the center from rotating independent of the rocker body, no matter how loose the rocker bolt is. Another option is to ensure the center pin is as long as the distance between the flanges for a tight fit and the bush assembly is not (providing some rocker endplay is good). The center pin ends can also be cross-cut/serrated to bite into the flanges when the rocker bolt is tightened.

It may not be entirely original, but the S4 chassis is radically different from any others. I've read the agreement was made by May '73 with the formal (including the "hand shake") in June at the Lotus pub.

The last Lotus built chassis to be delivered to Caterham for assembly is supposed to be S4 3535, with Caterham building 3501-3538. It is a grey area as who built which chassis from 3501 to 3535. If a Lotus chassis, it would be the main factory as the Lotus Racing/Components chassis stopped at 2953. I expect it is a 1972 or 1973 S4.

Looks like those have a 1.6 inch deep dome bottom. How well do you fit without the seat? Foam squabs can offer more room versus cushion than any removable seat. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prosourcefit-Extra-Thick-Yoga-and-Pilates-Mat-1-In-Black/531973004

As permanent as the hose, radiator, or water pump. Thermoset plastic clamps, when installed properly, should work as well as any worm gear clamp but the worm gear is more permanent, since worm gear can be reused. If the hose softens, reducing the clamp load, worm can be tightened but thermoset is "set" with the initial heating and cannot be tightened. Thermoset "throwaway" clamps were probably developed with an eye toward oems as a huge cost saving measure. It makes sense from an epa perspective if cars are totaled or repaired with thermoset and not pickups or some other vehicle that is kept and maintained for decades. Most plastics made these days don't age well by design, so these probably crumble and fail on their own after so many years, but they are light.

I think your battery was supposed to include the Banner covers. Unlikely to be available unless it includes a new battery. Look for lawn and garden or motorcycle terminal covers. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Terminal-Flexible-Positive-Negative/dp/B07YCJXJXY

No experience with the waterless product. It would be good to know what affect mixing it with water has. For example, away from home, not carrying enough waterless coolant onboard to replenish, and the car has a leak that has been corrected but the level is now too low to drive home. Probably should dump it all for standard premix to get home, then repeat the conversion process to waterless. It is notable that anything run through an engine for a time is no longer considered epa friendly to dump anywhere (no longer pure product). Evans coolant additive breaks the surface tension for greater thermal transfer. I've used that for cooling problems as a temp temp fix. It doesn't replace glycol and has no rust preventive.

Wow, those nearly cover the entire base plate. I usually prime first but you could fog it on from a foot away and let that sit a few minutes before a normal coat. I don't know why they'd want the reverse fog lamps to be dimmer with a matte grey finish. The salt belt is hard on everything.

You could also just drill or dremel the head off and pull the lens off, leaving the long screw shank to clamp with a vice grip and rotate out. Lights are brightest with a mirrored reflector. A "chrome" spray like Rust Oleum 7718830 Chrome Metallic works well, even if you do not plan to media blast/clean the bases. Not abrasion resistant but inside a light, it doesn't need to be. Could be clear coated after for more durability. If you find the ground stud base is too far gone, you could ground by extending the wire to use an eyelet under the head of one of the light base mounting bolts. I added projector leds to our daily drivers with 2156 socket backup lights (where the end of the bulb points to the rear). Big improvement. They run about $14/pair and come in amber or clear.

I can see why. Short of cutting it out and welding in a new $20 section of tube (routed more like the oem) or a shorter race type alt with a multi-vee pulley swap, I'd wrap the six inches closest to the alt. Wrapping a short section of tube is less critical.

I understand the appeal, but why do you need to wrap? Unless you are wrapping a header with 14ga walls and ceramic coated inside, your interest may be better served by a different method. Wrap turns a header pipe into a small kiln. No downside to using header wrap on components near the header, but there are other products for that such as fire sleeve.

Probably, but why risk it? B8ES (2411) are available and a closer fit to what you have.

Gymkhana/Motorkhana/Autotest https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gymkhana_(motorsport)