MV8

Good to confirm the fitment. Could be bias, but step bores are usually quick fill where as soon as any significant pressure is present, the large piston stops and the main bore takes over. My understanding is that CATs don't normally bias at all. A proportioning valve would be inline so no additional pipes. Some oems screw directly into the master cyl ports. I still think it is just an mk4 1500 spit master with a special reservoir.

The apex seals, equivalent to ICE piston rings, do not last as long. They are commonly carbon and lubricated by thin oil directly injected into the combustion chamber or require mixing with the fuel at each tank fill like a two-stroke. The internal wear surfaces are chrome plated which can fail for a number of reasons and replacements are rare. Rechroming is expensive. Add to that the difficulty in finding fuel that is not watered down with ethanol that works against the added oil and it doesn't bode well. They tend to be noisier too for the same exhaust (like a two-stroke). Somewhat equivalent to a six cylinder ICE but they tend to burn more fuel/oil. The pluses are weight, output (though low rpm torque is typically much lower than ICE), size, smooth operation, and high revs so no overdrive is less of an issue. Because it is modular, an engine can be made bigger by adding sections and fitting a special crank but the rev limit comes down.

The physics are one vents to the atmosphere through the catch can while the other burns the vapors. The effectiveness is "tunable" for the application with an orifice/restrictor and the box remains checked. For an efi system with an IAC that uses rpm feedback, the rpm increase from the pcv flow at idle should be offset by the ecu reducing flow through the IAC.

Fix the leak. I expect that is where part of your pedal stroke is going instead of moving the pressure plate. The pressure is very low compared to brake systems. I bleed them off the car and ensure the bleeder port is on top. I prefer an external slave. Cables are reliable when maintained and provide the most clearance. Non-oem concentric slaves do not normally have a dust seal, so clutch dust and other contamination can shorten the life of the orings. Oem's usually have a boot also, around a coil spring around the slave to keep the sliding surfaces clean. Because there is a spring, they have a crimp around the end to prevent the assembly from separating when not installed. Over-stroking will break them so the pedal and hydraulic ratios and installation clearances/preload must be correct.

Can also use rubber edge molding to help prevent woven wire from unravelling. "Hardware cloth" is another option. % open area is important for cooling. Perforated usually has much less open area, restricting airflow. Screen has been used to protect radiators from stones and rubber thrown up that can clog the fins. It clogs the screen instead but much easier to clean.

3M Roloc discs on a drill arbor, but a razor blade and green scotchbrite with wd40 works well with no chance of making things worse.

How low does the KPA get when cranking? It could be a new, bad map sensor. You could enter custom values to calibrate the sensor kpa/volts based on what the gauge indication should be at your elevation with no other changes to try out. Easy to revert to the specs based on MAP part number. Do not change the original tune. Save as new and rename. The purpose of this is calibration so if the map works well otherwise, no problem. I would expect them to do some testing after assembly. A "burn-in" period would be better still but I doubt they do it. If you can't get tech support by now and custom scaling the values at zero and five volts doesn't fix the issue, I suggest requesting a return on the hardware while you are still in the window. If you cannot exchange, replace the map sensor or to save time, simply buy another assembly to either confirm the problem or shelve as a backup.

Have you checked the calibration settings/constants? Go to tools in the top bar, calibration MAP/Baro, and select the type of MAP installed on your board so the correct settings will populate. Megasquirt kits are usually supplied with a MPX4250AP sensor. Fuel and ignition loads are in KPA versus RPM tables, filled with AFR for fuel and degrees of timing for ignition.

I misspoke. It is confusing. Idle= manifold most negative pressure (strongest pull against spring same side of valve), Crankcase lowest positive pressure (weakest push against spring opposite side of valve). WOT= least negative pressure, CC highest positive pressure for a net pressure increase to open the valve but this is just one kind of pcv. A valve control matched to the dynamics of blow-by over the life of the engine would be ideal. I know it is pointing the same direction but the orientation is not the same. With it idling, rotate the pcv so the arrow points up and see if it has any effect on idle rpm. Do not change the hose connections to do this but if the hose from the catch can is too short, disconnect it from the pcv to perform this test. In other words, grab the pcv and rotate it 90 degrees ccw at least, leaving the engine side connected and idling. If this drops the rpm increase, you could add an elbow fitting below it and shorten the hose above so the pcv hangs straight down, then runs straight forward to the catch can. A solid insert drilled for some flow (1/8"-1/4" bit?) and placed in the hose near the pcv would reduce the rpm increase and still be functional using a valve not intended for that engine. There are oem dry sumps with pcv valves but most dry sumps are added for racing where it isn't required or desired.

https://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Megasquirt2_Setting_Up-3.4.pdf/Megasquirt2_Setting_Up-3.4.html Sounds like a hardware issue.

I don't know what ms you have. I'd check the setting/constants since there are many different maps that can be installed on the board. I recall a testing setup for checking that the ms is good once assembled. Should read about 100 kpa near sea level with the hose disconnected.

The black is probably anodizing. In the cars for sale listing, there is a rotary powered cat that has the sloped reservoir mk4 spitifire master cyl with the level visible. Looks adequate as long as it's checked/kept topped off.

The vin plate is in amazing condition considering the rest of the car, despite some very big maintenance bills. The number falls after the first 1600 BDR. It' be fun to make those minor, easy fixes one-per-weekend, keeping it driveable. I wonder about the highway gearing for the axle and 5th. Good to see the rotary kept the mech oil metering.

The rx7 may not have the same distance between the bolt holes. A half-inch thick aluminum adapter with threaded holes for studs could be used to adapt a standard pattern mc without any mod to the cat mount but the end of the mc might contact the column body. Moss sells a $15 rebuild kit for the mk4 spitfire mc but lists it as a 1/2 inch bore.

The alternate point can be seen in figure 39 "brake switch harness" of the 2015 420 assembly guide. The pivot point moves about an inch but the pedal pad would move further than that if the effective push rod length is not changed.I don't have any info about the throttle pedal.

About the pedal position: I've seen on earlier CATs where there are two longitudinal mounting locations for the bolt that the pedals rotate on, with a two position clevis on the pushrod that could change pedal pad position an inch or so without any modification.

I've not seen the Morgan Plus 4 reservoir offered separately. It appears interchangeable with the mk4 1500; not the earlier large cap with untapped bosses in the cylinder body.

It looks like Ralph has it inverted compared to Killerb. No idea how it is oriented on a merc. With it idling, rotate the pcv so the arrow points up and see if it has any effect on idle rpm. Take a pic of the side of the block below the intake manifold.

The Spitfire mk4 1500 brake master cylinder mount is sloped 25-30 degrees and the reservoir is canted to compensate. Reduced fluid capacity when mounted to a CAT but it might work ok. It looks like Morgan used the Spitfire master body but with their own reservoir. The Morgan and Spitfire reservoirs appear interchangeable. A remote reservoir could also be adapted without modification to the master body. Originality is great and has its place but funny in that CAT seemed to use whatever components they could get their hands on at the time.

Morgan Plus 4 77-93. An odd-ball due to the mounting flange orientation. Pricey: https://www.ebay.com/itm/253235047808?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=253235047808&targetid=4580153136941820&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225723&mkgroupid=1224856224320864&rlsatarget=pla-4580153136941820&abcId=9300907&merchantid=51291&msclkid=38b577903e761af7aedc137124d0df75

At idle, the pcv should be "closed" (minimum flow orifice which varies depending on the pcv) by manifold vacuum being greater than crankcase pressure and the pcv internal spring combined. The spring is balanced against manifold vacuum, to fully open part-throttle through WOT when crankcase pressures are greatest. Minimum flow should raise the idle speed by 50-100 rpm in a system that has a breather port as far from the pcv crankcase port as practical. This port allows air into the crankcase and is usually plumbed into the air cleaner base but a small motorcycle open breather does the same thing. There is essentially no emission from an open crankcase breather when running when there is a pcv valve in the system. A "closed" system just pulls through the engine air filter and no different from an emission standpoint. However, a breather right next to the pcv port on the tank or a valve cover would essentially disable or reduce the pcv function, but the idle speed increase is normal if not excessive and should be readjusted at the throttle idle stop. If you experience oil gasket leaks/seepage or oil in the intake, the crankcase pressure may be excessive or too low under some conditions since it is sealed with no breather. I would connect the pcv to a port on the valve cover or where it normally is on the engine donor vehicle and leave the catch tank clear hose open to allow air in or add a small push-in motorcycle breather for that size hose so no trash is pulled into the system or zip tie a piece of residential window screen over the end of the hose. The overall flow of the pcv system can be reduced for less effect with an inline orifice but a bad idea without a breather for the crankcase. EDIT: so I see this is a duratec, which should have a plastic breather box under the intake with a pcv valve in the top of it. It could have an aftermarket plate installed with no openings. I see a cluster of hoses below the intake in your pic. Maybe you already have a pcv?

Can you post a pic of your pcv installation?

Mileage should improve significantly, though it may not be enough to counter the additional cost. The btu content is much higher without ethanol. The ethanol requires more fuel (injector open time) to produce the same power. There are many significant variables in the actual % ethanol pumped no matter what it says on the pump. I expect your ecoboost is not so aggressively tweaked to reduce the detonation margins to where a few points octane are not offset by a 2000-3000 lb curb weight reduction in engine loading and small, street tires.

DMV is typically within the purview of DOR and the Assistant Gov. There's always Ohio...

Did you reconnect power to the fuel pump after initial cranking with the fuel tank dry? If you did not disable the pump as Fastg suggested, you may need a new pump. Run a fuel hose into a bucket or a water bottle to test the flow. A bad gerotor pump can be heard running but still not pump enough or any fuel.