MV8

EDIT: It just occurred to me that the reluctor and rotor have a fixed relationship on the shaft but the cap terminals to pickup have been altered. I see the relationship change appears to be about 45 degrees, not 90, 180, or 0 deg difference to the old position. Perhaps the plate or pickup are mounted in the wrong position?

New pickup location in the distributor only affects the clocking of the distributor body, which I see you have already compensated for. If you mean that you spun the engine over with the starter while observing the timing light (which is set to zero if a dial back light), the rpm is too low. Minimum rpm is 500rpm for 12deg.

Trace the bolt holes of the adapter on paper with a pencil or rub a piece of paper over the adapter, creasing the paper at the holes, then flip the paper and trace the creases. Pick up a set of acrylic protractors at the fabric/craft store and an adjustable pencil compass like we had in school. Mark the center of the holes by measuring the hole then marking half that with a dot. Connect adjacent dots with a straight line. You should now have a triangle over three circles. Using a square/90 degree protractor, draw a straight line from each dot perpendicular to the opposite line across the triangle. Where these lines intersect is the center. Make a pin hole in the center and the dots; a total of four pin holes. Align the center hole over the divot in the center of the steering wheel, center a dot hole over the bottom spoke, and mark the wheel with three dots. Center punch the dots. Drill with a 3/32 bit, then step it up in several steps to no more than the required size.

The written formula is wrong, but the calculator math seems to be close enough.

There is a coolant temp sensor for the gauge and usually a separate sensor for the efi temp input. The efi temp sensor has a large impact on the mixture and the engine is most sensitive to mixture at idle. FWIW, the bubbling coolant is typical of a failed head gasket or cracked head. A cold engine may not show a failed gasket with a compression test.

153#/in. If you are happy with the ride quality, I think 180#/in would be a good choice and provide more ground clearance.

I get 236#/in. It is interesting that had it been coiled to a 2.5 id (which would be heavier due to being more wire but would not twist as much), the rate would be only 121#/in. Measure the wire on the car. You should be able to do so without taking anything apart if you let the suspension droop for a bigger gap between the coils.

Looking at all your videos, I see you've had a few problems. Looks like you had a blow head gasket last year, were running without any antifreeze for a while (muddy water) which cal also clog the tiny holes in the head gasket, and a loose fuel pressure regulator on the rail. Is all that fixed? Do you have an overflow for the expansion tank or do you fill it halfway?

Yep. Provide the black spring wire thickness and inside diameter. I will tell you the approximate rate as it sits on the table. The installed rate will be a little higher.

Using one of the black springs, wrap a string around the wire, use a pencil to place a mark across the string. Tell us the distance between the marks on the string. Measure the id and length with a tape measure or ruler.

I don't know what is typical on an actual caterham. Easy enough to measure ride height length and how much shaft is left for compression. Should be less than 3 inches needed to add for full extension length due to the motion ratio. The spring id depends on the damper and seats. Generally not so tight that a 2.5 id won't fit. Triumph springs are bit larger in id but 2.5 id will still fit. I think a typical circle track racing damper has a 5/8 eye but I expect a lotus would have something close to 7/16. A big eye can be adapted with a thicker wall inner sleeve.

I made a rate calculator in excel. Provide your wire thickness (0.xxx") and inside diameter of the spring (2.xx"). You need access to one of these for the wire thickness or a really nice person with one in-hand: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-dial-caliper-63730.html For an educated guess on a few variables and based on your pic I think the rate at ride height (minus driver) is about 130#/inch. I'd fit 20-30#/in more than what is currently installed, whatever that may be.

I don't know where your coolant temp sensor is located but the expansion tank looks empty. The system could be empty above the sensor.

In that case, with the spring off the damper, measure the fully extended and compressed lengths along with the inside diameter of the eye bushings or bolt shank od. Pics might help too. Here is one option that may fit your hardware and are around $200 each. I expect your rate to be around 200#/in. https://www.kineticvehicles.com/Shocks.html

Ditto on damper adjustment. If you need springs, I'd remove a spring and measure the free (loose) length, inside diameter, and using a dial caliper (available on ebay or harbor freight for about $15), the wire thickness to determine the spring rate. I expect you will find the springs to be about 10 inches x 2.5 inch ID. Maybe there will be some numbers on the springs you can post also. Assuming the rear is still satisfactory, I'd look at a slightly higher rate or the same rate if the old springs are just sagging and corroded. There are many sources for springs here. Probably about $100/pair, shipped from jegs, speedway motors, summit, even ebay, etc. I've used QA1 springs a few times.

I noticed the same thing. The cable housing does align with the cable. You can see the edge of the grommet sticking up on the outboard side. A Z pedal or bend of the upper leg outboard would be an improvement but it seems to work ok for a while as-is. Engineering the pedal for a swivel end or cam/quadrant to eliminate flex close to the rigid termination and a Z offset would greatly increase the cable life, at least on this end. I expect most cable failures are probably from a pedal stop out of adjustment. They add a little glob of silicone/rtv to keep the cable end secure in the slot.

That's good! Easier to find when it happens more often. Zero experience with your system. I would remove, wire brush, and reinstall the engine/trans to chassis, batt, and ecu grounds, and reseat sensor and ign connectors and fuses. I'd also monitor/log operating voltage and ohm the plug wires while flexing back and forth. Flex/wiggle the harness and near terminations while running to find poor crimps/splices. Again, not familiar with your systems, but the amplifier for the timing pickup on many vehicles can fail by thermal expansion which breaks a contact, which reconnects when the assembly cools. They often are mounted to a heat sink buttered with thermal compound like a processor on a motherboard. This compound can get washed away from pressure washing under the bonnet or just dry up with age. Lead acid batteries develop conductive sediment in the bottom with age and use that can partially short the battery internally if tilted or from hard cornering and cause the alternator to fully load the engine to try and maintain voltage.

If you put your thumb over the #1 plug hole as you rotate the crank toward tdc the pressure can be felt as you approach tdc on the compression stroke. If the mark on the body was correct, you can just drop it in and rotate the body to align with the center of the rotor tip. Check it with a timing light.

I'd be interested in seeing how the lockouts work unless the lockout is another term for the spring and ball detent? Hard to see. I guess it is a 3 rail. I was thinking of the shift rail. Supposed to be a triumph shifter on the end. I think if the fit were tighter at the shifter ball and the notches it would probably be less likely to engage both but that would be some work to do.

Individual cells, lead acid, fully charged, 2.2vdc but collectively with the internal resistance is more like 12.8vdc. Running is a minimum of around 13.2vdc at the terminals if the alternator and wiring can keep up with the load. Regulators can allow over 15vdc in some cases and newer cars move the regulation to the ecu.

It looks like #4 pipe is too far clockwise on the head making it too high at the slip joint. After lining up the pipes on the head by lining up the outside edge of the flange sections and snugging down the bolts, I would use a three foot or so piece of one inch black pipe (the size is based on the inside dimension) and wrap the end with a shop rag, insert the pipe as far as it will go then use it as a lever to tweak the slip joint location as needed to get it aligned, then loosen the head flange bolts before installing the secondary pipe/muffler, then retighten the flange to the head.

When the ends are standard male or female, I make up my own from universal, RF suppressing inductive/spiral wound solid wire sets that are very low resistance (for better running, starting) and longer lasting than anything else. If you don't feel comfortable assembling a set, a quality set of the same type for a common, older application could be used depending on the ends you need.

Looks like a '60s ford cortina/escort mk1 based on the smooth top cover and looks to be a single rail, bolt-on shifter housing versus the bullet integral shift mount. The release bearing is probably the same for both. Probably just some internal wear between the shifter extension and gate, possibly combined with aggressive shifting that isn't exactly in the right vector for the internals. Some welding and machining should tighten things back up. If it happens again, turn the engine backwards slightly to take the load off the gears before realigning the insides.

In that case, I would not worry about your meter showing more than the batt should be capable of. Could be time for a new meter though.

I think all Banner batts are AGM type and should have an automatic battery tender for AGM. I'm sure Banner has all the info you need on their site. It should bleed down as soon as it is loaded or on it's own. Also, don't leave trickle chargers to charge all the time. You didn't say what the volts were before you started charging.