MV8

How is this an upgrade? An external is much easier to replace when necessary.

Also, plug wires can break down and short to the cylinder head on this type. You can tell by pulling them out of the head to check the outside of the boots for traces of arcing. Don't fit cheap plug wires on the shelf at the local parts store.

Install one of these temporarily to verify coil discharge while cranking. If the voltage drops too much due to the starter load, batt capacity, or poor connections, the ignition system won't operate: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-electrical-tester-in-line-spark-plug-checker-86579/22144233-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=22144233-P&adtype=&product_channel=Online&store_code=&msclkid=fce703ef64e41f7d62ae616a581f9131&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=b_shopping_all_dorman_gen_gen_gen_evergreen_eng_aap_us_all&utm_term=4580290575192439&utm_content=Bing_All_Dorman%20-%20Innovation_Dorman%20-%20Front%20Room&gclid=fce703ef64e41f7d62ae616a581f9131&gclsrc=3p.ds Also check the fuel pressure at the rail when cranking with a test gauge. If this is a single fuel line system without a regulator and return line, the pump voltage is varied by a module to prevent pumping too much fuel. Make sure the grounding and connections to that are clean and tight.

No experience with your model. In the top of the tank, you may find a large white plastic unit with a fuel line and an electrical connector. In this case, the level sender is part of the pump assy. It is under the boot floor and retained by a plastic nut ring. It will likely take a special tool to disconnect the fuel line from the assembly so you can remove it to bend the arm. The assy should be keyed to fit one way so the float is in the right location to swing freely. The seat and ring cover a large area and are not intended to be very tight in order to seal, so be careful not to break the retaining ring or force anything. I'm sure it is very expensive. Other, older efi models should have separate pump and level sender assemblies in separate openings and secured by many small screws. Again, does not need to be very tight so don't strip screw heads. Some carb models may have in-tank pumps.

Yes. You could leave the key on then watch the gauge as you seat the sender on the tank and tweak as needed. I wasn't suggesting running dry, just reminiscing; my mind wanders. The gerotor efi pumps do not tolerate running dry at all. A carb piston or diaphragm pump would be ok with that but I prefer a gerotor for carbs too. Carter makes an excellent inline/external, gerotor pump for carbs that is quiet and reliable. I can provide a part number if there is any interest.

Nothing jumps out at me in the visual insp. I see the battery was produced last month so that is good. Terminals are a little busy with the trickle charger leads that could create a small voltage drop. I would load test the battery. You can get a tester at harbor freight tools or take it to an auto parts store or napa to have them load test it. The labeI cca is determined by the mfg and may not be accurate. I'd want a lot more cca for this application. It sounds like your trips are not long enough to recharge the drain from starting. A battery with more cca would help the issue as it would have more capacity leftover to cope but I see your space is limited. When the car won't start, check the battery gauge voltage for a few seconds with the key in the RUN position. What does the gauge show while the starter is engaged trying to start? When it doesn't start, does it turn over noticeably slower/lower pitched than normal or does it turn over normal but just doesn't start? If it turns over at the same rate but doesn't start, the problem is not the battery or starter.

You can get close with one try. With the tank drained, if you bend the arm to ensure the float contacts the tank bottom, note the level indicated (showing fuel but tank empty), pull it out, connect the wires and raise the arm to show the same fuel level, then measure the distance from the flange to the float. Tweak the arm to put the float at a 1/4 inch less than the same distance with the arm fully extended/dropped on the sender. Bend the arm close to the hinge point at an existing bend instead of near the float. There will always be some residual (reserve) fuel in the tank after empty is shown so you can make it to the next gas station. Classic motorcycles usually don't have fuel gauges but a reserve position on the fuel petcock. If it started coughing/starving for fuel, you'd just reach down and switch to reserve then head for the gas station.

The immobilizer may be an ignition disabler. Read your owners manual. Generally, the red led should not be flashing if it will allow you start the engine.

Imho, it's hard to imagine 600# springs on a caterham. Something's got to give to cut peak loads including bump stops. Make a bigger bar if needed for roll control (along with adequate links). A little increase in diameter goes along way. Tubular is a option to reduce weight.

Don't forget to use anti-sieze on bolt shanks and threads that won't get a nylock nut. Comes in brush cap jars in aluminum, copper or nickle for exhaust parts. One jar lasts most folks a life time and it doesn't dry out. Makes future removal a breeze. Keeps bushing liners from sticking to the bolt shanks with corrosion. If you only use one, it should be copper as it will work ok on exhaust parts too. Usually stocked in auto parts stores.

Nice job on the wheel hub and exhaust port. To clean up the edge, try a rotary file or a large sanding drum to fit a drill. A good way to check the wheel centering is with the front wheels of the ground, spin the wheel from lock to lock watching the center or a spot on the rim. I think you are so close that any off centering won't be noticeable.

If you post some pics of the engine bay and firewall, someone may notice something unusual to focus on.

It sounds like the new problem is a battery drain with the key off or the key is being left on in accessory or the run position. A drain can be crudely checked by disconnecting the negative cable of a fully charged battery. With the key off, lightly brush the negative cable end against the neg batt terminal. If there is anything more than an almost imperceptible spark/arc, it should be investigated further by someone with electrical knowledge and repair experience. If the car has some type of gps locating device such as lojac or dealer installed kill switch, it can pull a lot of amps for no reason long after the car is sold. If you are seeing 14vdc, then the alternator is working to some extent. The best way to test a battery is with a load test on a full charged battery. I don't believe you have a battery problem. A minimal capacity battery does not tolerate much of a drain for very long, poor connections, corrosion, or other problems. Re-seating fuses, relay, connectors, and removing-reinstalling battery cables can make a difference. I don't have your wiring schematic, but the battery negative terminal, frame, and engine/transmission should all be connected through cables. Use a terminal brush on new battery posts to clean the dull grey off so they are shiny and clean before connecting. Clean the terminals too. I don't recommend seafoam for anything.

No. The hardest part that is not common to any normal job/profession is the rolling of the skin over the top rail rear corners and flame annealing assuming that is the condition of your old skin. A general answer to a post with no images.

If you can't hold a replacement part up to the opposite side to compare before installation, a tape measure will do. Even if it is off/bent, one can take off the opposite side and have the bent one modified to match if the shop is willing. The one being replaced could have been rebuilt the same way or a new one fabricated; mirrored off the opposite side. Shops that make custom arms for other applications would probably be willing to handle a side job like that.

I'd accept a comp from Caterham that would have covered the cost to fix it. Then I'd just cut out another inch using left and right Wiss offset compound snips/shears. You must start the cut in the middle and end at the curve, keeping the snip 90 deg to the skin. Stop if it starts to roll instead of cut. Then use a carbide, bastard cut rotary file (same as a porting bit) in a drill to smooth the cut edge or you can use a curved file. Finish with a deburring tool like a kobalt 58737 used on pipes. Paint the edge with a small brush and clear (touchup paint would work), then pull the tape toward the opening.

Probably just need a little work with a slapper or wood block and something behind it. How about a pic or two?

The sump type doesn't matter with an inline oil stat. There are many examples like this one: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/susa-inline-oil-thermostat-with-m22-ports-40-aot180-22 I'd consider capping the cooler and bypassing all together. There is no benefit and only down sides if the oil never gets over 230f on the track without it.

What are the coolant temps? I suggest installing an oil thermostat to bypass the cooler when the oil is too cold or blocking off the cooler airflow unless you are at the track. The oil works with the coolant to cool the engine so you might consider a 195f coolant stat also. I would want to see around 175f in the tank where the circulating oil temp is at least 212f on every drive to cook off moisture, acids/deposits, and reduce potential sludging. The oil cooler must be thermostatically controlled to maintain oil temp, just like the coolant stat. It bypasses the cooler during warm up. If the oil is running that cold, the coolant must be running too cold also, which makes it run rich/less mpg. Cold oil is more critical than cold coolant. If I wanted to drive it while waiting for the parts, I'd block the airflow through the oil cooler and run a 195 coolant stat. I'd like to see 2500rpm at 70mph but it will effectively widen the gear spread a bit.

Try mouser or digikey. Don't forget the connector and pins. Hopefully the crimper will be a common flag type and not cost $300 like many do.

Pics of the installed hoses and the lengths would help with good images of the ends.

I like Carling switches: https://www.carlingtech.com/switches Common, durable, and reasonable. For all sorts of quality switch gear, cole hersee has a large variety used mostly on commercial vehicles: https://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/commercial-vehicle/catalogs/littelfuse-aftermarket-catalog-cvp150.pdf?hsCtaTracking=d22414fe-f4fe-4047-b5cd-736f83f4004f|809462b8-b646-4a08-b489-ceb1ba7291ad

Might check the plug condition, gap, and pump the linkage a few times before engaging the starter. 1243 is ccw in the overhead view.

Did it run ok before? I don't think these engines have a crank damper that would allow the timing marks to slip. It can't be pointing to the #1 cap terminal in both distributor pics unless you moved the wires on the cap. If you replaced the plug wires at the same time, recheck the firing order. Verify the plugs are firing when you engage the starter with an inline clear tester, or a spark plug with a ground clip. Verify the carbs are getting fuel by observing the accelerator pump shot spray. If you suspect the ignition system is not working, you could spin the shaft of the assembled distributor in your hand with the body grounded and fire the plugs. There is a volt drop when using the starter that is sometimes too much for the ignition system to function. Check the voltage at the coil while cranking if the plugs won't fire until you release the starter button as the engine comes to a stop.

I think so. I usually line up everything so it starts easily, screw in the throttle a bit, and adjust with a light after it is running. I looked up the instructions. It should be a two plate assembly with a vacuum lockout link to keep them from rotating independently so the lower plate could be off. Should use the new magnet sleeve too, versus trying to reuse the old one.