MV8

Once you find the right parts, we can figure out why.

Assuming you have the right diagram, ground a clip to the chassis, unplug the ecu, find the right terminal, then touch to ground to see if the relay clicks and/or the fan comes on. Another option is to use your handbook to find the right fuse, pull it, find the side that still has voltage, probe the other side with the dvm set to beep continuity, then back probe the relays. Care to share the diagram? Is it the right one for your car?

Did the machinist grind the valves?

To save some effort, request from Caterham, a pdf of the handbook that covers 2019 models and a schematic or factory service manual covering the model, which would include the schematics. Another option is to pull and reinstall each relay until you find one that doesn't seem to do anything. Same situ for the fuses. Usually for a dc fan on older equipment, there is a separate, single terminal, coolant switch but there are many ways to do it. The relay may control the positive or the negative lead to the fan. If you feel comfortable and capable with a dvm, paper clips, and a jumper lead (DIY assembly of alligator clips on a few feet of 14-18ga copper stranded/primary wire), I can tell you how to find the problem without splitting the harness open.

Major work and not a bolt-in, with a lot to consider in the process unless you buy an irs frame and associated components. The axles will be custom; shorter than the oem irs donor. I have not converted a stalker. I'm in the process of converting a spitfire to the ford 8.8 irs. I don't see much value for the work involved.

Looks like automec kits are ok if you select a left hand drive kit for the German market. Otherwise, it is just copper line; no nickel. https://www.automec.co.uk/

I would not assume anything with a one-man operation. How long since he read your message? The FB msg you sent will show if and when the msg was read with a circular icon on the right side. I'd send another msg a week from the read date asking for the status. If it hasn't been read in a couple days, I'd also send an email. No reads or replies in a week, call. I'd want to put my hands on the part before replying. If I don't have any and are not making them, check with my local sources.

About the crankcase pressure, is it broken in yet? Is the road draft tube installed and taper to the rear or is the end square cut? Was there a pan baffle/windage tray? Standard volume pump? Thicker oil doesn't drain back to the pan as quickly so you probably have more in the valve cover than if you ran something thinner. Too late now, but a common mod during building is to smooth internal surfaces and radius oil returns to aid flow back to the pan. Glypt was often used to coat internal surfaces for a slick, oil resistant surface. I see you have a borg and beck pressure plate. These have higher ratio levers (5-6:1) than modern diaphragm spring pressure plates (effectively 3.5:1) and are slower to fully clamp the clutch after a shift. I'd try a little more time between foot off the clutch and applying throttle before another tear down. If only we could pump fresh synthetic grease in NOS release bearings.

Not my s4z. Not my boots either. If you need more help routing, take some clear pics of the area we can draw on. P clips ever foot or so generally, gentle bends, cut off 3 inches or so to practice flaring, if bends need to be within 3 inches of the fitting, flare it when straight then bend when assembled.

Thank you. I enjoy it. I see Redline is currently active with their latest filing for an address change last month. You may be able to reach Mr. Mintoft on Linked: https://uk.linkedin.com/in/chris-mintoft-356427?trk=people-guest_people_search-card An interesting article: https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/caterham-seven-old-vs-new

Christopher, I believe Scott is referring to Chris Mintoft, the owner of Redline Components, Ltd. https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/news/operational-statement-chris-mintoft-director-redline-components-ltd I have experience in this area too and it seems very simple to me but I agree with Scott that it can easily result in a "hack job" on a first attempt. For anyone interested, the methods described are no hack and may be how they came up with the original scoops for the lower cost, single down draught option (which I would prefer to dual 40s on a touring car).

An ecu typically relies heavily on the cts to determine the engine operating temperature. The cts resistance is calibrated to be around a certain value depending on coolant temp. Sometimes they fail by being out of tolerance or if the connection shorts or opens. If the engine is at 200f but the cts says 300f, it will be too lean and more likely to stall at idle. If you know the oem application or part number for the sensor, the chart should be available like this one for GM. Resting means nothing preventing the cam from rotating. Free to rotate to a resting or balanced pressure position on the base circle/least overlap position once the belt is removed. When on tdc for #1, some of the valves will still be open but the spring pressure is trying to close them, so the cam will rotate. It is not unusual to have to force one of the cams to rotate a few degrees to align with the marks when installing a belt.

The compression is not great but should be good enough and even enough to run properly. The cams may not rest without the belt installed properly timed due to the spring pressure and lobe angles. Did you ever check the cts resistance/temp chart or is that not available?

YES!!!! https://www.facebook.com/RedlineComponents/posts/plenty-of-caterham-parts-and-lotus-7-series-2-parts-going-out-but-here-is-someth/1217352805080926/ Looks like redline is already making copies.

3d print or cnc mill foam cores but however you want to get there. However, if you cannot get your hands on one for any purpose, you have another option. You could carefully measure the required dims for engine movement and shape a block of rigid foam to fit, then take it to the glass man to be used as a buck for your mold. Another, more accurate option is to fit the new system, cover in painter plastic, then pack modeling clay around it to the tear drop shape you want. The clay and tools are available at hobby lobby or amazon. I suggest oil based. Then trailer the car to the glass man for a layup. It appears the original was just a shell with the cut edge against the bonnet with no flange for mounting, just at the front for appearance. I expect studs were glassed into the shell for mounting. If you cut the opening in the bonnet undersize, you can provide some rigidity to the edge by bending a vertical flange.

I assume you'd prefer the yellow design to the green, but finding either will be tough. How are you with composites? Maybe a loaner to have 3d mapped?

Not an expert or fan of newer "crap", BUT, Ford places the fp sensor on the hard line on the chassis. Only "Direct injected" engines with a cam driven secondary high pressure pump has a second sensor on the rail. If there really is no fp sensor, I expect the feedback is based around a collective injector pulse width expectation for a given cts, hot o2, rpm, iac, maf, and tps. Typical of older equipment is a prime, then wait until rpm is near idle, oil pressure is above a minimal psi, or an airflow switch to run the pump. I'd rather have an fpr return or carbs.

I wouldn't be seen in that! Partly because it is fully enclosed but mostly because I am very thrifty, bordering on cheap. I think the future of a seven would be organic monocoque on skinny wheels with leaning suspension but still look like a seven.

May help to measure the lift with a dial indicator and stand or possibly a dial caliper if you've room, measuring a lobe major and minor od and subtract. LSA and overlap would require a protractor and a dial indicator and stand or some other way to mount it. A steel strip to the cover flange and a magnetic base would work. Are the pulleys adjustable?

I'd make sure the push rod and pedal are adjusted to have a small amount of free play felt at the pedal pad to ensure the master piston is fully unloaded, leave the cap loose, fit a clear vinyl hose to loop above the caliper then down to a jar with a vacuum port, use a hand pump to pull the vacuum on the jar to over 10 inches, then crack the bleeder enough for large bubbles, bleeding the rear corners first. I go around a couple times with no pedal movement required, ensuring the level never gets too low in the master reservoir.

It looks like if you reverse the front flange hardware so the bolt head is inboard of the tube flange, then the toe shims could be changed at the front without pulling the rotor and you just need to be able to loosen the rears and retorque.

Thanks for the pic. While the design doesn't help the output, it looks like it fits well and will last a long time. I expect the muffler outside the frame could be greatly improved. You can post or probably send me a private pic through the forum. I'd like to see more of the car. A few months ago I created a list of suitable round mufflers that could be covered or coated for aesthetics. Your hearing is much more important. I expect the wind noise is still the loudest thing at speed. Long tubes would be much better for power and scavenging but will likely be louder with thinner wall tube, radiating more heat into the compartment than what you have now.

Hooray! Since the full travel without damage on these oem hrbs is usually only about 12.2mm, the minimum hrb extended height/length is important to ensure full release with a new clutch and a given pp. To check the actual finger position necessary for full release, tape a lot of .030-.040" washers evenly across the pp ring face and install a new clutch.

The input shaft spline engagement and pilot may tolerate a 5mm block shim. I assume these come with a plate that fits between the block and bell that is installed before the flywheel on the block. I've not seen any domestic that did not have such a plate. I believe the thickness is typically about 3mm and affects starter pinion clearance on bell mounted starters versus block mounted. A thinner flywheel may also be an option or some combination. How is your crank end play?

My two cent contribution: They probably still sell the tools to check these things but no need to get fancy. I would lay a straight edge like a ruler or carpenter level across the bell with a helper to hold it in place or a spring clamp. I would take dowel or ruler in one hand across the straight edge with the end against the hrb (hydraulic release bearing), then push the hrb to compress the spring in the green bellows as far as it will go, keeping the dowel against the hrb and my finger nail where the dowel and straight edge meet on the front of the straight edge. Mark the dowel then measure the length plus the straight edge thickness. This is the maximum pressure plate (pp) finger distance from the block to bell mating surface (may include a shim plate if you have one). This measurement should be greater than the actual finger height with a new clutch because as the clutch wears, the finger height increases. If it can't move away, the pp will eventually cause the clutch to slip. How much extra space is required depends on the pp finger ratio and the clutch design. Typical pp ratio is 3.5:1 and a clutch is typically worn out after .030" of wear, so add .120" to the max finger height to prevent slipping before it is worn out. Place a straight edge across the pp fingers and measure to the block to bell mating surface on each side to take the average distance or use spacers on the block to bring the straight edge just above the fingers and measure down to them. Fingers can be slightly bent and uneven. If it is a larger/smaller number, machine/shim the hrb adapter plate. The shim must fully support the entire base of the hrb and would be clamped by the hrb. I believe the high finger pp applications started around 2002.