MV8

I'd make sure the push rod and pedal are adjusted to have a small amount of free play felt at the pedal pad to ensure the master piston is fully unloaded, leave the cap loose, fit a clear vinyl hose to loop above the caliper then down to a jar with a vacuum port, use a hand pump to pull the vacuum on the jar to over 10 inches, then crack the bleeder enough for large bubbles, bleeding the rear corners first. I go around a couple times with no pedal movement required, ensuring the level never gets too low in the master reservoir.

It looks like if you reverse the front flange hardware so the bolt head is inboard of the tube flange, then the toe shims could be changed at the front without pulling the rotor and you just need to be able to loosen the rears and retorque.

Thanks for the pic. While the design doesn't help the output, it looks like it fits well and will last a long time. I expect the muffler outside the frame could be greatly improved. You can post or probably send me a private pic through the forum. I'd like to see more of the car. A few months ago I created a list of suitable round mufflers that could be covered or coated for aesthetics. Your hearing is much more important. I expect the wind noise is still the loudest thing at speed. Long tubes would be much better for power and scavenging but will likely be louder with thinner wall tube, radiating more heat into the compartment than what you have now.

Hooray! Since the full travel without damage on these oem hrbs is usually only about 12.2mm, the minimum hrb extended height/length is important to ensure full release with a new clutch and a given pp. To check the actual finger position necessary for full release, tape a lot of .030-.040" washers evenly across the pp ring face and install a new clutch.

The input shaft spline engagement and pilot may tolerate a 5mm block shim. I assume these come with a plate that fits between the block and bell that is installed before the flywheel on the block. I've not seen any domestic that did not have such a plate. I believe the thickness is typically about 3mm and affects starter pinion clearance on bell mounted starters versus block mounted. A thinner flywheel may also be an option or some combination. How is your crank end play?

My two cent contribution: They probably still sell the tools to check these things but no need to get fancy. I would lay a straight edge like a ruler or carpenter level across the bell with a helper to hold it in place or a spring clamp. I would take dowel or ruler in one hand across the straight edge with the end against the hrb (hydraulic release bearing), then push the hrb to compress the spring in the green bellows as far as it will go, keeping the dowel against the hrb and my finger nail where the dowel and straight edge meet on the front of the straight edge. Mark the dowel then measure the length plus the straight edge thickness. This is the maximum pressure plate (pp) finger distance from the block to bell mating surface (may include a shim plate if you have one). This measurement should be greater than the actual finger height with a new clutch because as the clutch wears, the finger height increases. If it can't move away, the pp will eventually cause the clutch to slip. How much extra space is required depends on the pp finger ratio and the clutch design. Typical pp ratio is 3.5:1 and a clutch is typically worn out after .030" of wear, so add .120" to the max finger height to prevent slipping before it is worn out. Place a straight edge across the pp fingers and measure to the block to bell mating surface on each side to take the average distance or use spacers on the block to bring the straight edge just above the fingers and measure down to them. Fingers can be slightly bent and uneven. If it is a larger/smaller number, machine/shim the hrb adapter plate. The shim must fully support the entire base of the hrb and would be clamped by the hrb. I believe the high finger pp applications started around 2002.

For the popping, if it is a result of a very low restriction/loud exhaust with little to no muffling, you could use a more restrictive/quieter muffler or possible repack, fit anti reversion cones at the head flange or use an exhaust tip insert. If you think the timing isn't what it should be, check it with a light. One that also displays rpm would be best. They start at around $75.

Have them send you new bushes to install. Damage to the wrong-side bushings is likely if you try to remove them for re-installation on the other side. I'd leave them as-is. To install the new or try to remove the old, use sockets where the OD is the same as the bush outer shell and another bigger than the chassis tube and a foot long threaded rod (3/8" if it will fit)with washers and nuts that will fit through the socket centers. Jamb two nuts and oil the threads on the other end. Oil the bore and the shell. You could use a large C clamp as an alternative to the threaded rod.

Style points is my guess. I'd flip them back around and maximize the rear coverage by adding classic motorcycle flared flaps with snaps on the outside of the fender or chrome acorn nuts. I like the body mounted long swept fenders. More effective, less unsprung weight and more reliable long term but more drag/lift. The cycle fender front drag is less if you can keep the airflow off the top of the tire, since the top of the tire is going the wrong way and traveling twice as fast. Lowest drag would be open rear, fully covered front.

No, I'm saying the dry side of the piston on a master made only for power brake systems may not have any way to retain the end of a pedal push rod. With a booster, only the push rod end is exposed and is usually adjustable in length to match the distance to the piston. With manual brakes, the pedal push rod is usually retained by a clip of some kind/type in the dry side of the master piston. It is usually possible to limit pedal travel and adjust push rod length so the rod cannot come out of the cupped area of the piston but it is a consideration. There cannot be any preload on the full retracted piston.

Yes, the total part throttle timing could be more but you can't use it except for mpg if the initial and mech adv are set up correctly. I expect it never had vac adv with dual carbs and the distributor was built for that. The vac adv usually advances (typically limit to 6deg or so) under light loads only and pull timing back under WOT to prevent detonation. Mech adv should be all in by 3000 rpm.

One product is a points converter and the other an ignition amplifier. Neither of those products controls timing advance. Take a picture of the distributor with the cap off. Does it have a plug on the body to connect the harness or does it have a short harness built into it? One has a mechanical advance and the other is computer controlled. If the rotor can be rotated a few degrees by hand then springs back, then it is a mechanical advance system. The distributor can be taken apart to clean and lubricate the weights or change the springs to alter the timing curve. Total advance is also "adjustable". Dual carb typically remove the vacuum advance and screw on a block off plate to keep the distributor clean.

Pushrod retention can be a consideration as a power brake application usually does not have any relief in the piston to hang on to a pushrod.

I'd change it for something more common domestically with a bore commensurate with the pedal effort and travel and adapters if needed to retain the existing lines or you can buy new tube nuts separately that are compatible with the tube od (3/16 probably) and cut and flare or make new lines. The original type reservoir may not be available if you break it.

The rusty lbj bolts looked fine to me, just needing a few seconds with a wire wheel on a bench grinder for the threads and head and a shot of phosphorous and paint, but new oem bolts are even better. I'd use a roloc/red nylon 3m disc or flap sand the pinion flange to remove the rust, then a light coat of phosphorous to dry, then clear satin rustoleum brand aerosol paint with an integral rust preventative. The clear is handy for keeping things rust free and bare aluminum cleaner without concern for overspray. As time progresses, the difference becomes more apparent. Home Depot has gallon concentrate of "metal prep"(phosphorous) that I dilute with water in a spray bottle. Says to wash it off but I've always let it dry and scuffed if needed.

It appears to have failed because the stepped metal center was not held against the trans input bearing retainer by the outer clamp ring by the bolts. In other words, when bolted down, there is a gap between the trans and the hrb metal center and there should not be. This allowed hydraulic pressure, internal spring pressure of the hrb, and expansion from heat to allow the center to move out of the body. The center is typically crimped around the edge to hold it in place when not installed. It also could have been pushed apart a little/unseated just before installation from an attempt to bench bleed with pedal movement instead of squeezing the hrb.

Trying to remember, but I think it is certain year model rav 4s that have an interchangeable diff that accepts the miata 94+ halfshafts and winged case, but the ratio is about 3:1.

Nice pics. I was asking for pics in order to try to help you select the new parts. I like to offset the brake line ends so the lines can hug the chassis.

I would expect to find Merkur xr4ti drum brakes but I don't know for sure. Should have ford part numbers on the drum to cross reference.

If the correct part is not available in the future, it is possible to convert with two line adapters from 3/8-24 bubble to inverted thread, a 3/8-24 inverted thread tee, and this npt switch that includes a special adapter: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brake-Light-Switch-with-3-8-Inch-IFM-Adapter-Fitting,80727.html?NoRedirect=true&OriginalQuery=910-31304

I think this is the correct part. It is not NPT and is bubble seat. https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/british-other/sunbeam/sunbeam-alpine/lucas-hydraulic-brake-light-switch/ I'll add you will have a hard time adapting a male npt to standard brake thread and seats. I'm guessing you are not interested in engineering for a strictly electric switch operated by the brake pedal.

Also, bench bleed the hrb off the trans. They can be difficult to bleed once installed.

You can fit a pedal travel stop if needed.

Yeah, only the vw design was better. Thanks for the pics. I'd go with the hrb too, just be sure not to over extend the slave with the master and lever ratio. That design usually will break the hrb so make sure you are using the correct bore master for this conversion. Shims between the trans and hrb will help set up the released position but do not prevent over extension since the fingers can go overcenter.

You can use an angular release bearing on the existing fork. There is no need to convert to an internal slave.