MV8

For the popping, if it is a result of a very low restriction/loud exhaust with little to no muffling, you could use a more restrictive/quieter muffler or possible repack, fit anti reversion cones at the head flange or use an exhaust tip insert. If you think the timing isn't what it should be, check it with a light. One that also displays rpm would be best. They start at around $75.

Have them send you new bushes to install. Damage to the wrong-side bushings is likely if you try to remove them for re-installation on the other side. I'd leave them as-is. To install the new or try to remove the old, use sockets where the OD is the same as the bush outer shell and another bigger than the chassis tube and a foot long threaded rod (3/8" if it will fit)with washers and nuts that will fit through the socket centers. Jamb two nuts and oil the threads on the other end. Oil the bore and the shell. You could use a large C clamp as an alternative to the threaded rod.

Style points is my guess. I'd flip them back around and maximize the rear coverage by adding classic motorcycle flared flaps with snaps on the outside of the fender or chrome acorn nuts. I like the body mounted long swept fenders. More effective, less unsprung weight and more reliable long term but more drag/lift. The cycle fender front drag is less if you can keep the airflow off the top of the tire, since the top of the tire is going the wrong way and traveling twice as fast. Lowest drag would be open rear, fully covered front.

No, I'm saying the dry side of the piston on a master made only for power brake systems may not have any way to retain the end of a pedal push rod. With a booster, only the push rod end is exposed and is usually adjustable in length to match the distance to the piston. With manual brakes, the pedal push rod is usually retained by a clip of some kind/type in the dry side of the master piston. It is usually possible to limit pedal travel and adjust push rod length so the rod cannot come out of the cupped area of the piston but it is a consideration. There cannot be any preload on the full retracted piston.

Yes, the total part throttle timing could be more but you can't use it except for mpg if the initial and mech adv are set up correctly. I expect it never had vac adv with dual carbs and the distributor was built for that. The vac adv usually advances (typically limit to 6deg or so) under light loads only and pull timing back under WOT to prevent detonation. Mech adv should be all in by 3000 rpm.

One product is a points converter and the other an ignition amplifier. Neither of those products controls timing advance. Take a picture of the distributor with the cap off. Does it have a plug on the body to connect the harness or does it have a short harness built into it? One has a mechanical advance and the other is computer controlled. If the rotor can be rotated a few degrees by hand then springs back, then it is a mechanical advance system. The distributor can be taken apart to clean and lubricate the weights or change the springs to alter the timing curve. Total advance is also "adjustable". Dual carb typically remove the vacuum advance and screw on a block off plate to keep the distributor clean.

Pushrod retention can be a consideration as a power brake application usually does not have any relief in the piston to hang on to a pushrod.

I'd change it for something more common domestically with a bore commensurate with the pedal effort and travel and adapters if needed to retain the existing lines or you can buy new tube nuts separately that are compatible with the tube od (3/16 probably) and cut and flare or make new lines. The original type reservoir may not be available if you break it.

The rusty lbj bolts looked fine to me, just needing a few seconds with a wire wheel on a bench grinder for the threads and head and a shot of phosphorous and paint, but new oem bolts are even better. I'd use a roloc/red nylon 3m disc or flap sand the pinion flange to remove the rust, then a light coat of phosphorous to dry, then clear satin rustoleum brand aerosol paint with an integral rust preventative. The clear is handy for keeping things rust free and bare aluminum cleaner without concern for overspray. As time progresses, the difference becomes more apparent. Home Depot has gallon concentrate of "metal prep"(phosphorous) that I dilute with water in a spray bottle. Says to wash it off but I've always let it dry and scuffed if needed.

It appears to have failed because the stepped metal center was not held against the trans input bearing retainer by the outer clamp ring by the bolts. In other words, when bolted down, there is a gap between the trans and the hrb metal center and there should not be. This allowed hydraulic pressure, internal spring pressure of the hrb, and expansion from heat to allow the center to move out of the body. The center is typically crimped around the edge to hold it in place when not installed. It also could have been pushed apart a little/unseated just before installation from an attempt to bench bleed with pedal movement instead of squeezing the hrb.

Trying to remember, but I think it is certain year model rav 4s that have an interchangeable diff that accepts the miata 94+ halfshafts and winged case, but the ratio is about 3:1.

Nice pics. I was asking for pics in order to try to help you select the new parts. I like to offset the brake line ends so the lines can hug the chassis.

I would expect to find Merkur xr4ti drum brakes but I don't know for sure. Should have ford part numbers on the drum to cross reference.

If the correct part is not available in the future, it is possible to convert with two line adapters from 3/8-24 bubble to inverted thread, a 3/8-24 inverted thread tee, and this npt switch that includes a special adapter: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Brake-Light-Switch-with-3-8-Inch-IFM-Adapter-Fitting,80727.html?NoRedirect=true&OriginalQuery=910-31304

I think this is the correct part. It is not NPT and is bubble seat. https://www.sportsandclassics.com/parts/british-other/sunbeam/sunbeam-alpine/lucas-hydraulic-brake-light-switch/ I'll add you will have a hard time adapting a male npt to standard brake thread and seats. I'm guessing you are not interested in engineering for a strictly electric switch operated by the brake pedal.

Also, bench bleed the hrb off the trans. They can be difficult to bleed once installed.

You can fit a pedal travel stop if needed.

Yeah, only the vw design was better. Thanks for the pics. I'd go with the hrb too, just be sure not to over extend the slave with the master and lever ratio. That design usually will break the hrb so make sure you are using the correct bore master for this conversion. Shims between the trans and hrb will help set up the released position but do not prevent over extension since the fingers can go overcenter.

You can use an angular release bearing on the existing fork. There is no need to convert to an internal slave.

How is this an upgrade? An external is much easier to replace when necessary.

Also, plug wires can break down and short to the cylinder head on this type. You can tell by pulling them out of the head to check the outside of the boots for traces of arcing. Don't fit cheap plug wires on the shelf at the local parts store.

Install one of these temporarily to verify coil discharge while cranking. If the voltage drops too much due to the starter load, batt capacity, or poor connections, the ignition system won't operate: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-electrical-tester-in-line-spark-plug-checker-86579/22144233-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=22144233-P&adtype=&product_channel=Online&store_code=&msclkid=fce703ef64e41f7d62ae616a581f9131&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=b_shopping_all_dorman_gen_gen_gen_evergreen_eng_aap_us_all&utm_term=4580290575192439&utm_content=Bing_All_Dorman%20-%20Innovation_Dorman%20-%20Front%20Room&gclid=fce703ef64e41f7d62ae616a581f9131&gclsrc=3p.ds Also check the fuel pressure at the rail when cranking with a test gauge. If this is a single fuel line system without a regulator and return line, the pump voltage is varied by a module to prevent pumping too much fuel. Make sure the grounding and connections to that are clean and tight.

No experience with your model. In the top of the tank, you may find a large white plastic unit with a fuel line and an electrical connector. In this case, the level sender is part of the pump assy. It is under the boot floor and retained by a plastic nut ring. It will likely take a special tool to disconnect the fuel line from the assembly so you can remove it to bend the arm. The assy should be keyed to fit one way so the float is in the right location to swing freely. The seat and ring cover a large area and are not intended to be very tight in order to seal, so be careful not to break the retaining ring or force anything. I'm sure it is very expensive. Other, older efi models should have separate pump and level sender assemblies in separate openings and secured by many small screws. Again, does not need to be very tight so don't strip screw heads. Some carb models may have in-tank pumps.

Yes. You could leave the key on then watch the gauge as you seat the sender on the tank and tweak as needed. I wasn't suggesting running dry, just reminiscing; my mind wanders. The gerotor efi pumps do not tolerate running dry at all. A carb piston or diaphragm pump would be ok with that but I prefer a gerotor for carbs too. Carter makes an excellent inline/external, gerotor pump for carbs that is quiet and reliable. I can provide a part number if there is any interest.

Nothing jumps out at me in the visual insp. I see the battery was produced last month so that is good. Terminals are a little busy with the trickle charger leads that could create a small voltage drop. I would load test the battery. You can get a tester at harbor freight tools or take it to an auto parts store or napa to have them load test it. The labeI cca is determined by the mfg and may not be accurate. I'd want a lot more cca for this application. It sounds like your trips are not long enough to recharge the drain from starting. A battery with more cca would help the issue as it would have more capacity leftover to cope but I see your space is limited. When the car won't start, check the battery gauge voltage for a few seconds with the key in the RUN position. What does the gauge show while the starter is engaged trying to start? When it doesn't start, does it turn over noticeably slower/lower pitched than normal or does it turn over normal but just doesn't start? If it turns over at the same rate but doesn't start, the problem is not the battery or starter.