CBuff

Not sure about Texas. But in New York. I needed the mco but needed to get the state inspection for vin assignment. The mco doesn’t count as a vin. The car only comes with a chassis number. New York assigned a VIN. Again not sure about each state dmv differences. But it seems like that’s the conflict. Caterham doesn’t assign VINs.

It seemed to be tracking correctly. I was shocked that my right rear wheel was about 10-15 deg warmer and 1-2 psi higher. I assume because of the exhaust. once I get a feel for how it heats up and psi rise on street and track I can see myself not using or needing it. But currently I am getting more insights so I’ll keep it. $30 buck and more blinky things for now. Why not. they have solar powered and hardwire versions. I already relocated the cig outlet to that place. So I went with that setup. Easy to pull it later

More baubles and bolt ons. In my continue quest to understand more about the car. I came across this decidedly cheap tire pressure and temp monitor. For $29 I thought I would check it out. First test of it seems like it works. Still not sure. May use it for a while till I understand how the temp comes up and tire pressure is effected. https://a.co/d/hxHCG2o

I actually wondered this myself. I end up returning the gesture but since we are sitting on the ground it ends up being two fingers up (peace sign). I get that this is opposite of the intended signal (keep two wheels down on the ground). But creative license like so many things with these cars. As I am not a motorcycle rider. I have enjoyed the unexpected kinship with the two wheel crowd.

I am very jealous. I just keep carrying that 1 plus gallon of fuel around without anyway to use it. pinning this for an upgrade down the line.

I ordered a master cut off “key” from caterham on 9/15. Just arrived today. Not a big ticket item for sure. But standard shipping charges. No other delays or costs.

I don’t have the cojones to drill into my Ali. But well done. Looks great!

I have had the same thought about the asm. When I am driving on the street without helmet and Hans I see the value (I guess). When I am on the track with helmet and Hans I wonder if the asm brings movement into the situation that is not wanted/good. when my dates expire on the belts I might keep the asm shoulder straps for street and then clip in my new dated (non asm) belts for track. And just switch back and forth (they are currently clip and eye so it’s easy enough). But regardless I still feel more comfortable and secure with the crutch attached. likely over thinking it all but this would address my thinking without any additional expense since the date codes will expire. Hopefully I never test these theories as crashing in a caterham sounds risky period.

I couldn’t source Motul 8100 on my first oil change and went with the Mobil 1. Both 5w50. The second one I went with motul 8100 5w50. I use this filter Mann Filter W712/83 Spin-On Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NFXVH6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I have an 420r sv so clearance for the taller filter isn’t an issue. Figured taller is better but not based on much. The 83 designation is the bypass valve of 1 bar. Although I was never able to get any clear direction on different bypass pressures preference or impact to operations. my take away was changing oil and filters more often overshadows the exact brand types assuming the weight of the oil is correct. But happy to be corrected.

I did similar set up. Clamp onto under dash cross bar. B ball ram mount to short arm to double b ball to quad lock wireless charger. It’s wired into my aux 12v set up which has a switch on fuse cover that changes it from ign switched to constant. To off. Which actually comes in handy if I am sitting it the super hot sun and not moving the phone can over heat so I just stop charging till I get moving again.

@Croctrouble shooting the internet

I went with the cig adapter smart trickle. Noco. I have a cig outlet in the fuse box cover as well as in the boot. It’s post mco switch so I need to remember to keep the cut off on for it to charge. (I wired the 12v thru a msd solid state switch. ) https://a.co/d/iuB77Xw

The effect on the ppf def made me think it was brake fluid. But when we checked that level was noticeable lower. Like mid way between min and max. But when cold right at the max line. And that’s where it always has been. Can’t imagine where that fluid went and then returned. Seems counterintuitive to be lower when hot. I put the wrist bad thing zip tied over the cap. Will keep an eye on it and see if that absorbs any fluid.

So now I am perplexed. I went to install the moto wrist band thing and planned on topping off the brake reservoir. With the car now cold from sitting for a few days. The brake reservoir now shows full. Like perfectly at the max line. this seems counter intuitive to me. It was about half way between min and max at the track last weekend. I would think hot would be more full than cold. I am now questioning if I just kicked up some road yuck on the rear wing. And no brake fluid leaked.

I happen to drive my car at night tonight. Not sure if it’s correct but my three right switches also don’t light up with headlights. Only when the function is switched on.

@Croc must be in a different time zone to get beat on the Sunday listing. Or extra innings in the Bordeaux tasting last night.

I think it’s recommended to change oil after 500-1000 miles. I did and had it tested. Some break in metals were found (normal). I’ve changed mine 3 times so far since last June. About every 3k miles.

In my 420r new last year. radiator bobbin bolt jumped ship engine cover bolt worked loose and missing. Put new ones in with loctite i have a variety of buzzing and clunking. I think it’s normal. radiator econo plug came undone (fan didn’t turn on). Made some slack and zip tied together. 900 miles. Oil change ? recently I also caught that the fan belt was rubbing on an oil or coolant line. Zip tied line away from it.

@sf4018 copy. Will do. I think this drop was definitely and a purge from the reservoir cap. Which hasn’t happened this far. But I was running hard which seems inline with others experience. I will likely zip tie a shop rag and maybe add the moto slave cover (basically a sweat wrist band). Might purchase the race cap which does still seem prone to this issue. I check it enough that I’m not worried about it dropping too much. More worried about enough ejecting out freely that it mists out the bonnet and damages the paint. I got lucky this time with the right rear wing taking the brunt of the hit and the ppf did its job. (Although the ppf now seems to have a spray pattern eaten into it). Paint itself seems good.

These can be tricky. The windscreen stanchions are under load with the rubber strip and the nature of the design. The threads on the bolt will start to engage with the stanchion and not with the inner nut. leading to that feeling like it’s engaging but then not (stripped). And if you’re not careful will eventually strip the nut You can do this job with one person but I suggest a helper for the first few times to pull or push the windscreen into position while you line up the stanchion and retaining hole/bolt. Making sure you are as lined up as possible and the bolt is engaging the nut not the stanchion frame. I also get them all engaged but loose and then tighten them down. If you keep installing them with the stanchion loaded it will eventually tap the stanchion opening which makes this even harder. fear not. Once you do it a few times the dynamics are pretty straightforward and you can do it solo.

Josh at rmc just weighed in. He mentioned that the race caps can leak as well. @KnifeySpoony maybe that’s what you were alluding to. he said wrap and zip tie the standard cap.

@MV8 I think the standard one is baffled but open to the outside. The race cap has an opening into the bellow chamber. I believe this keeps the inside and outside separated but can adjust for pressure with the bellows compressing. But I defer to smarter folks and once I get the race cap I can look. @KnifeySpoonyThanks for the feedback. Maybe race cap and motorcycle sock over. This is the first time it’s happened. I was going pretty hard. I saw your posts on blat chat regarding this. Sorry to hear it’s still an issue. Is it just a minor leak or do you have enough coming that it migrates to painted surfaces ?

Well after a year and 10 tracks days without incident it looks like I too have the brake reservoir issue. On Sundays track day at nyst I noticed some fluid (brake) on the right rear wing. The ppf did its job although it has left some evidence on that. The paint seemed to fair on. There was about a 20% drop between the min and max line. seems like this is a common occurrence with hard track driving. Maybe I just wasn’t pushing hard enough thus far. in looking online. https://www.caterhamlotus7.club/forums/topic/267797-leaking-brake-fluid-resovoir/ Seems like the ac race cape with bellows is the strong suggestion. But with this you lose the low level warning. I hate to lose this function but I check quite frequently and not sure I would even see a warning light in the middle of tracking it. The risk of paint damage is far greater than the warning light. I have read about needing to remove the baffle and rubber seal as the bellows performs both functions https://caterhamparts.co.uk/master-cylinder/914-brake-master-cylinder-cap-race-no-float-switch.html will likely get a brake reservoir sock for a belt and suspenders approach. question: I assume the float switch is open unless the level drops thus closing the loop and triggering the light. So leaving it disconnected (as the race cap doesn’t have the float). The light would remain off. Might just shrink wrap it and zip tie it out of the way