CBuff

I spoke with nova last week. They still have stock from the previous run of the 185 55 R13 zzs tires. Not so lucky with the rears 215 55 r13. Neither are part of their phase 1 production which goes thru mid 2025. No insights when or if they will go.

Already in the calendar. Thank you again @Croc for being so generous with your time and facilities.

I’m still in the honeymoon phase. We will see how it unfolds long term. Trying to set the bar as high as possible. hoping to get some north east cruises together next year. Get the collective mileage up for all.

I’m not committing to the year ending yet. My goal is to pass 5000 miles. I’m at 4852 as of today (since early June).

https://www.topgear.com/car-news/first-look/limited-edition-caterham-seven-csr-twenty-costs-ps80k In celebration of Caterham’s hardly-talked-about-anymore CSR chassis - which first appeared on a Seven in 2005 and is therefore approaching its 20th birthday - the company has revealed this limited edition CSR Twenty. What makes it unique is that the chassis (which Caterham calls its ‘most compliant’ - read pointy) is offered together with the 420’s 2.0-litre Ford Duratec engine for the first time. That four-pot is Caterham’s most popular, you see, producing 210bhp and redlining at 7,600rpm. 0-62mph takes but 3.9 seconds and the top speed is stamped at 136mph. The CSR Twenty also features inboard front and independent rear suspension to make the steering as direct as possible and the rear end as grippy as possible. And combined with the willing-but-not-620R-levels-of-rapidness? We like. The gearbox is a five-speed manual, of course, with ventilated front brakes and quad-piston calipers. It’s also “without doubt the most premium Seven we’ve ever built”, reckons Caterham boss Bob Laishley. To that end the dashboard gets a satin carbon finish, a leather tunnel top, and Alcantara on the gearstick, handbrake and gaiters. Meanwhile the seats are fitted with ‘premium’ leather, boasting yet more Alcantara, red stitching and of course CSR Twenty logos. You also get a numbered plaque for your one-of-twenty Twenty, plush black carpets (you lucky thing) and a leather Momo steering wheel. Outside, the CSR Twenty gets a nose cone in the style of a 620, there are LED lights front and rear and those 15in alloys are exclusive to this edition of the Seven. Hmm. An acquired taste, perhaps? Two colour choices are offered: Kinetic Grey and Dynamic Silver. What, no Movement Maroon? The price is… punchy. Very punchy. It costs £79,995, which is a lot when you think a base 420 starts from £42,000. And your one-of-20 Twenty is actually a one-of-40 Twenty, as 20 cars have also been earmarked for the US.

Pulled is open. maybe the switch idea was a dumb one.

You should also make sure to open the heater valve under dash to let coolant / air clear that system

Can you poach your heater switch for the wipers to pass the inspection. Not sure on the amp ratings on each switch but it would be a similar 3 position switch. my fan kicks on at 103c per the gauge. Will creep up to 108c then settle back down to 100 and cycle off. On and off till I get out of traffic and get moving.

Yes. I had the same concern. I clipped some of the zip ties and created “some “ slack. Not a ton but some. Maybe a winter project to flip it. Nice to know there is a relative easy solution. Interesting that caterham wouldn’t do this from the factory. But that seems par for the course with caterham.

Can’t weigh in on right or wrong. Just what I got. With the zip tie to the connector it does seem to work. But defer to the collective on “a better way”

I just noticed today that my oil supply line (from base of dry sump tank) was just barely touching my alternator pulley. Some pulling and moving and added some zip ties to it cleared before after my radiator fan plug runs around the passenger side and thru the bracket. It’s running along the radiator but hasn’t seemed to cause any issues. It did unplug Itself in the beginning since the wires were zip tied tight to the cross brace and had no slack between chassis and the radiator (which moves slightly on the rubber mounts). I created some slack and zip tied the connector together

Maybe this owner, or whomever buys this, could share some chassis info if it’s relevant to your prototype restoration. https://poconos.craigslist.org/cto/d/white-mills-1974-lotus-super/7798625161.html

Even with the “correct” number for my wheel and tire size. My Speedo was still off by 10mph at 60. I have 13” staggered zzs wheels. I had the same problem. Even when I entered the ppu for a 420 with 13” staggered zzs set up it was still wrong. I tried to do the math to adjust based on gps vs what it was reading. Ended up just adjust checking adjusting checking. And came up with this ppu that pretty spot on. If you have different tires and wheels it will be different. But once you get comfortable entering the ppu you can check with against gps (I just used Waze or Google maps that reads out your speed ). ** use caution when driving and looking at your phone. 042081 here is also an automatic way to calibrate the Caerbont speedo: Setting The Calibration – Inputting The Calibration Number / Pulses Per Unit Distance. There are two methods to setting the calibration: (i) Manually inputting the PPU number. (ii) Using ‘drive to set’ facility. The calibration mode is selected by switching on the ignition while simultaneously pressing the trip reset button. The pointer will travel to full scale and return to zero. If the button is released before the pointer returns to zero, the manual setting procedure will be selected and the LCD (odo.) will read ‘SET PPU’ If the button is released after the pointer returns to zero the ‘drive to set’ mode is selected and the LCD will show ‘DTS PPU.’ At this point, pressing the reset button momentarily will toggle between ‘SET PPU’ and DTS PPU’ . Manually inputting the PPU Number Set the LCD to display ‘SET PPU’ as described above. Press the reset button for 2-3 seconds, the LCD will show the calibration number currently set. Each digit within the calibration number will flash in turn for approximately 2 seconds. When a digit is flashing, each depression of the reset button will increment the digit by one. Once the last (right-most) digit has been set/reset, the whole number will flash. Press the reset button and the LCD will display ‘DONE.’ After 3 seconds the LCD will display ‘SET PPU,’ the setting is now complete. Switch off the ignition. Drive To Set PPU: Set the LCD to display ‘DTS PPU’ as described. Press the reset button for 2-3 seconds, the LCD will display ‘∗00000.’ Drive exactly one mile. While driving, the odometer will count the number of pulses generated by the sender. Press the reset button for 2-3 seconds, the LCD will display ‘DONE.’ Within a few seconds the LCD will return to the ‘DTS PPU’ display. The setting is now complete. Switch off the ignition. IMPORTANT – When driving in ‘drive to set’ mode the speedometer will register but not accurately. The speedometer cannot be used on a public highway in this mode.

Tristan at soft bits could assist. If your car is something in their database they might be able to pull dimensions. If not they can help with what measurements are needed. You may need to self attach poppers if yours are already installed on the body (as this is hard to measure) juddltd@gmail.com Tristans email.

This is where my 2023 420r wash bottle is. Tube exits thru fuel filler cover and down the trans tunnel. here is a detailed write up from purple meany https://purplemeanie.co.uk/index.php/2017/08/25/email-4-washer-bottle-in-the-boot/

I ran into the same dilemma when I was looking for my 1/2 hood last year. I ended up going with soft bits. They were relatively quick and communicative (I was still waiting on the car at that point).

I’ll sit back down now.

I seem to recall that. Can I screen shot it and post it here or is that a a forum or Facebook faux pas? Was just tying to keep the information flowing to the people.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/739892829751305/permalink/1843094049431172/?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v