TheDingo8MyBaby

Beautiful! If you ever want to switch things up a bit, you could go with these tail lights... http://cache.jalopnik.com/assets/resources/2007/10/Sprinter_Emblem.jpg If you could change "sprinter" to "esprit"

Did you do what I suggested with the choke tubes yet? Does your car have a vacuum advance?

Yeah, I have no doubt chapman is spinning in his grave. Chapman built road cars so he could afford to go racing. He wasn't real keen on seeing his road cars raced. I think that's how that quote applies I guess I just feel that the target market for this car will enjoy playing around with things and tinkering. It's a different time now that we have all sorts of data acquisiton to give feedback on the tuning. We no longer have to rely on just seat of the pants measurements and lap times. Not only that, but changing things such as damper settings with a push of a button can't make the adjustments any easier. You can do 1 lap at one setting, adjust on the straight and do the next lap at the next.

I think this statement is a bit close minded. There's nothing wrong with fiddling with set-up, especially with this technology. People have different driving styles and most manufacturers tend to compromise performance for comfort. If this thing has GPS, you should be able to pull up laps and go through your data to figure out what helped and what didn't in different sections of the race track. Maybe it's just the engineer in me, but I think that's pretty cool. It would be really cool if they offered some simple tutorials on how to set up the car. If you want to race, you have to learn how to set up a car. I think this gives you some great tools to do that.

Pull the air cleaners off as well as the trumpets. Make sure the venturi tubes are secure. If they're secure, pull out all of the jets and clean with carb cleaner. So it's missing no matter what you're doing? Idling, accelerating, or cruising? Is there any difference if there's a load or not? We also need to keep in mind it could be ignition too and not just carb.

The Twin SU carbs only came equipped on the SE models. In my opinion it was the most beautiful road going car lotus ever produced. That certainly is a fine example. Interesting though how the elite has 2 tail pipes because chapman wanted it that way. He was so fickle about weight and the elite has 2 tailpipes with a mere 75 horsepower.

and I forgot to mention center of gravity... so good point there.

Right- I never said they didn't transfer weight. I said they did not transfer nearly as much. Take that for what you will...

xflow7 is right. You're truly scrubbing off speed when steering in a kart under braking. When you have brakes on all 4 corners of an automobile, you're utilizing all of the braking force possible (assuming the bias is correct). Just to point this out - the reason that most karts only have a rear brake is they don't have nearly as much weight transfer as cars (they don't have any suspension). Having front wheel brakes on karts can also cause unwanted understeer. Karts can pull over 3 lateral G's around corners...which is more than 3x what normal passenger cars will do. Furthermore, they have consideriably less weight. I do, however believe that they are stopping in that distance of 35 ft. No, I don't believe they're pulling 3G's, but I believe the energy is just being directed in a different direction. What they don't mention is how much distance they cover perpendicular to the stopping distance. In the end, I dont think anything revolutionary has been discovered. You still want to threshold brake in a straight line unless you have stupid amounts of room to the left or to the right of you..and even if that's the case it would probably be best just to steer around the obstacle.

I think he meant there was 5 of them...as in the extra carried on the back.

So actually, it's a $60 rebate... but good find!

Check your wire from the negative coil terminal to the RPM gauge. I agree with low flyer. That stuff is like a hacksaw.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/Catalogpages/ford.htm

If you are an owner of a dog that belongs to a 'dangerous breed' category,and you also have a small child, please take this as a warning. Don't leave your dog with the child unattended under any circumstances! Just a moment was enough for the following to happen. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/dangerous_pit.jpg

I only have them for hot for the 1600 (I imagine yours has the A2 Cam). The first number represents the # of the valve fully open, the second is the valve you want to check and adjust for each exhaust you're looking for .022" and inlet is .010" 8 - 1ex 6 - 3in 4 - 5ex 7 - 2in 1 - 8ex 3 - 6in 5 - 4ex 2 - 7in Make sense?

I'd argue that there is a few downsides... 1. It's messy and some tire shops will charge you if they have to deal with it. Or may refuse or not be able to fix your tire if you put it in. 2. It ads weight and unsprung weight at that. 3. If it doesn't coat evenly you can develop a pretty bad vibration-which is probably compounded by you driving a 7.

There are a couple of threads here..no idea if they're still available: http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3350 http://www.usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=2774 13x8 and 9 may be a bit aggrressive for you, but I love wide rims on the 7...especially with low offsets.

Steve, I'm going to give you a few options. 1. You might try: Tony Wiltshire Magneti Marelli 317 471 1559 2. Find a local electrical parts rebuilder. These guys can rebuild them every bit as good as new (and sometimes better). 3. Look at getting a super starter or Japanese/Denso equivalent. Yes, your car will sound like a camry starting, but it's a small price to pay for reliability. Plus you save a couple pounds... Good luck!

That's about right. You only need about 25 psi under load in a crossflow. Those gauges are likely not the most accurate anymore either. Just make sure you're not dipping under cornering/acceleration/braking. Mine has a bad tendency if the oil is less than full to suck air on hard right handers

Depending on the design, fitment, etc it may or may not. The tension of the stud is probably doing all the work. However, I do agree with Ian. It never makes sense to play around with these things. A failure could mean disaster. Don't just simply buy larger diameter studs. Buy the ones that CORRECTLY press fit into your hub.

Have you thought about moving to a 6 speed transmission? I hear those are excellent.

No problems at all here. Watched the whole race uninterrupted. I have direct TV hd

Some people take things so seriously... Reminds me of this xkcd comic http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v121/TheDingo8MyBaby/duty_calls.png

http://www.snopes.com/science/cookegg.asp Scroll down to the bottom. This was is a hoax made by a bluetooth company.

Did you want to bore it out to get more displacement? Forged pistons are a must on high compression crossflows. They tend to fail at the ring lands. I've never driven one, but I hear a 244 cam, while being rather high duration, is a good match to our lightweight cars. If you want streetability, go with the 234. Upgrading to an electronic ignition also seems to be a worthy upgrade. Whatever you do, make sure you use oil with a ZDDP level greater than 1000. Over here in the states they've stripped it out to keep catalytic converters in better shape and it's wreaking havoc on cars with flat tappets like our crossflows.