TheDingo8MyBaby

This one is my personal favorite: I also really enjoy this image of Pete Lovely's Lotus 49 on top his VW combi http://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Pete-Lovely-Lotus-49B-Brainerd-.jpg I've personally used the u-hauls trailers with good success, but always wished I'd had something enclosed. They are great (albeit heavy) if you don't have a place to store your trailer. It's also nice if you can find a location that allows you to do after hours drop-off's so you can rent/return all in one day.

Wayne, I personally do not believe those are proper mounting locations. Even with a giant washer, I imagine the harness would pull right out of the floor. It very much depends on the type of seat you have. Assuming the seat has a provision for a 5/6 point, you'd be better off mounting to the tube behind you. This is where the caterham academy cars attach their 6 point belts.

You just haven't tried hard enough. I'm positive that they will stretch to fit as I've personally fit a 225/45/15 on a 9" wheel for a friend with a miata. There's a whole thread here about it: http://www.miataturbo.net/wheels-tires-78/why-225-45-15-rs3s-nt01s-15-x-9-wheels-61867/ You just need to find a shop that isn't concerned about their own liability. Besides blasting with air, there are other ways to get them to bead. Look up "starter fluid tire beading" on youtube.

Just curious - what is the PCD of those wheels? I'm guessing it's not the standard caterham 4x4.25". Are they 16's?

Marshall, I didn't get a chance to look. I will check when I get back in from Switzerland.

I have a Kirkey 14.5" with padding Laying around that I was saving for a rainy day, but I suppose I could use some space in the attic. PM me if interested.

Hi Marshall, I think I may have one laying around. Give me a couple days to look for you. I assume you mean stock ford oil pan, not stock caterham.

Is this any help? http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/gearbox44Ford.jpg

http://i44.tinypic.com/2163j5.jpg Here's a 2000e (3 rail) diagram I took from a lotus elan manual. Not great, but it may be of some hep. Edit: Sorry it's upside down!

Agreed - fantastic deal there. Keep in mind - that BDA can be expensive to maintain and a replacement head will cost nearly half of the price of the car

I don't know much about the VTO's, but I do know a little about rotas and the konigs. I have seen some pretty scary failures of rota wheels, but that being said, a 7 is a much lighter vehicle and probably would not see the same loads. The konig rewinds are a decent wheel. I've owned a set of them in the past as was pretty happy with them. You get what you pay for though. I personally think panasports look a lot nicer than the rewinds.

Cons: Expensive Some people prefer other types (as an example, I prefer clutch types) Can make the car unstable during lock/unlock (not normally a problem though) Can cause additional noises/chatter from the rear end, especially around low speed tight turns (parking lot). The noise depends on the type and setting of the LSD. Pros: Allows you to gain better traction out of corners Allows for proper power slides I've driven a 7 without one and it's almost a crime. Due to the limited weight over the rear axle in a 7, it's really hard to get traction - especially when the inside tire simply wants to lift up and spin.

I'm also a fan of the 4ag. Although it doesn't make as much power as a duratec, it sounds fantastic - especially with ITB's.

The reason you're seeing pickup only on the inside is due to the camber, probably on the cool down lap when you're only running on the inner section of rubber. Tom: I would agree with others about swapping rubber front to rear. You can also have the wheels balanced (make sure they do dynamic balancing) to ensure they aren't the issue. Typically with wheel vibration issues, you primarily feel it in the steering wheel and less overall in the car.

HKS closed US operations a couple years ago. There are no official Pro dealers in the USA to service the VPro. All Pro dealers were required to return the Pro tuning module when HKS shut up shop. If you have a HKS VPro, unless you know someone who can get around this, you're out of luck.

I agree the valuation of the first car is a bit high, despite how nice it is. I also thought this one is quite a deal: http://www.lotus7.com/1965_LOT_7.html Considering most original 7's I've been seeing have been listed nearing or above the $40k mark. I'm not sure if the car has a dog ring transmission though, which would make it difficult to use on the street. Also - the updated front suspension may make it illegal for certain vintage classes.

It sounds to me like a problem with the transition circuit. Try here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/sidedraft_central/files/Weber_Tuning_White_Paper/ "Transition Circuit The cornerstone of the Weber DCOE carburetor is the transition circuit. It operates over a fixed rpm range designed into the carburetor, defined by the placement of the progressive holes relative to the throttle plate. Essentially, this range is nonadjustablewe must tune around it. This has two practical consequences for the tuner. One, it defines a required idling rpm so as not to create an off idle stumble. Two, it defines a transition rpm at which the main jet system must be activated to eliminate a flat spot. To measure the true air-fuel ratio (AFR) of the transition circuit, we must disable the main jet circuit by temporarily removing the emulsion tubes. If the floats are set correctly (see Section 2) the fuel level will remain 2mm below the passageway leading to the auxiliary venturi. Consequently, no fuel should flood into the carburetor via the auxiliary venturi, so this shouldn’t be a safety issue. With the emulsion tubes removed, fuel will continue to flow and the engine will run normally on the idle and transition circuits as long as the throttle plates are not opened past the last progressive hole. This occurs at approximately 10% of the pedal’s full travel. Driving the car with the emulsion tubes removed provides a baseline for how the transition circuit was designed to perform. Be careful when doing this test because you will be lacking about 90% of normal engine power to get out of harms’ way. Drive the car gently at a steady speed on level ground and note the AFR measured by the air-fuel meter. Don’t move the throttle while taking a reading- the accelerator pumps will shoot fuel and make the AFR reading inaccurate. Moving the throttle plates past the last progressive hole will kill the engine so just don’t do it. Swap the idle jets until the AFR is approximately 12.5:1. The next test measures the transition rpm at which the main jet system must be activated. Shift the car into high gear and slowly increase the engine rpm until the engine dies. The maximum rpm at which the transition circuit keeps the engine running while in high gear is the transition rpm to which you MUST tune the main jet circuit to begin providing fuel. Typically, this target rpm is about 1400 rpm in high gear. The main jet circuit must be contributing fuel at this transition point without the AFR deviating from the desired 12.5:1 value. Any gap in fuel delivery between these circuits produces the classic and much dreaded flat spot! At part throttle cruise in the higher gears the main jet circuit is actually providing all the fuel so concentrating on fine-tuning its low rpm performance is crucial to achieving the best tractability possible." I suggest reading the entire document. This yahoo group has a ton of excellent information on weber tuning. Keith Franck is a weber guru. Also - if you have an aldon distributor, it could be the advance on the distributor as well. Caterham didn't appropriately spec out the advance. If you send it in to aldon in the UK, they can fix the problem for a modest fee.

Nope, 48W only.

Check here: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=8350&page=4 I purchased a pair of these at $70: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lucas-SLR576-Driving-Lamp-NEW-with-Bulb-SALE-/200955666578?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec9e42092&vxp=mtr

Hey Dermot, Here's another for you: http://www.race-cars.com/partbd/messages/23653.htm

Here's some pictures of ottocycle's beautiful Mallock, incase anyone else here is interested besides me. http://i43.tinypic.com/28wpgyv.jpg http://i41.tinypic.com/165oqv.jpg http://i44.tinypic.com/2ns59hu.jpg http://i39.tinypic.com/2rf3qs4.jpg

Here's a head for 1600 euro + shipping (from Europe) http://www.race-cars.com/partbd/messages/23639.htm I'm not sure if these prices are still valid, but bean sells aluminum heads well. http://www.davebean.com/specials6.htm#TCHead Also - I'm still waiting on pictures of your mallock. You can email them to me and I'll post them for you at geoffcwise(at)gmail.com

the question is: Low Compression, High Compression or GT? They're becoming tough to come by, especially the larger port GT's.

Looks like he's asking for $25k, which seems pretty reasonable based on other lotus 51 sales. I suspect this car will need a "going over" though as it's been essentially sitting as a show car for a while. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/cto/3957665813.html

I love the old FF's. The seller is actually an ex lotus 7 owner, Dan Shivley.