TheDingo8MyBaby

You definitely would not want to mount a sub-belt to the floor aluminum. Do the standard Caterham sub-belts (I'm assuming we're talking about 6 point here) have a D-ring on the lap belt, or do they simply click into the cam-lock? If they have a D-ring on the lap belt, they probably use formula car belts which can be mounted behind the chest line (thought I'm not sure what the manufacturer would say about the belts coming up through the hole in the bottom of the tillet).

I've had good luck with Taylor's, but MSD has high quality "build your own" kits. I'm not familiar with the Spiro-pro kits from pegasus... New wires tend to be 4-6Kohm from what I've measured. I would definitely replace tony. Dave bean, JAE, Pegasus, BAT and Tony Ingram would all be happy to sell you a set of plug wires. In general, for a street car it probably isn't too big of a deal. You just want to make sure they don't get bent, chafe, etc.

Funny, my first thought was pontoon fenders too! IRS was a somewhat popular modification back in the late 60's, early 70's. More info/pictures on the lotus 7 IRS configuration here: http://www.lotus7register.co.uk/ser2pix.htm (middle of the page) http://www.simplesevens.com/34TPF/34TPF.htm http://www.lotus7register.co.uk/lss14.htm My personal favorite is the Michael Mumford rear axle though: http://locostusa.com/yahoo/suspension/mumford.gif

Automoda- do you mean optima or odyssey? I had a pc680 that lasted 2 years. I think driving home after my alternator died discharged the battery and killed it, though.

Agreed with Tom, assuming it's straight. I've never liked the SCCA trimmed clams, but I understand their function.

There's one here: http://www.motor-vision.co.uk/latest-news/cars/supercharged-caterham-guns-for-king-of-the-lightweights

assuming it's the oil pan gasket - here are a few things you can do: Install studs at the corners (http://lotus7.com/PUSHROD_PARTS.html - see bottom of page) Use rubber seals if possible (http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/lotus-twincam-f39/cork-rubber-t24330.html - I suggest reading this whole thread - good info) Use a high quality sealant, but use it sparingly. I've had good luck with permatex "the right stuff" http://www.permatex.com/products/our-brands/the-right-stuff

How long are you waiting before restarting? I'm now working off the assumption it's heat related. Even though you've recently replaced the coil, an easy way to check it is to stick an ice pack on it and see if your problem goes away. Another thought is boiling fuel (not vapor lock). I assume this is not happening in the bowls, so check your fuel lines for possible heat transfer.

This thread has a lot of suggestions to try: http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?t=9135

Are you sure it's front main or instead the oil pan gasket? The latter seems to be the cause more often than the former.

My mistake. I saw the nosecone (which upon further inspection looks similar to the CSR without the mesh) and didn't look too closely elsewhere. Bruce - when did they make that change? I've never seen a vented nose SV before.

Unsure about the NACA duct, but the car appears to be a CSR, the hood emblem is Caterham's new logo. I also believe the mirrors to be caterham as I've seen them on other CSR's.

I like the white/aluminum combination; it's something you don't see very often. The revolutions also look sharp. I'm surprised by the amount of body roll it has in the auto-x shot.

I assume you have a live axle. The bushes in live axles tend to be less robust than the dedion. The reason for rapid deterioration is oil from the diff and heat. If you're tired of replacing often, a spherical bearing should solve your issues. The folks on blatchat have also had good luck with powerflex bushes. As a cautionary note: Both of these options will transfer more load to other parts of your car.

I'm sure it depends on your crossflow intake manifold. It probably makes sense to measure and call someone that has access to a twincam head that can tell you the spacing between #2 and #3 intake runners.

i'll second what bball said and add that crossflows are notorious for oil starvation on right handers. Generally overfilling the sump is not good practice, but does tend to help. With regards to the health of your motor - as long as it wasn't without pressure for long (and not under a lot of load), it's probably ok. Looking at the bearings or doing an oil analysis are ways you may be able to tell, but they will not give you 100% certainty.

I'll second the vouch for Tony. He's extremely helpful. You can also try JAE.

These are an interesting period correct option... http://bit.ly/1bcKm6H

Do they have to be BDP, or will any 5.23" rods work?

Here's another option: http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/lotus/1236710767/1236710767ss.htm

That's a pretty good deal bob. I'd take it if I didn't just rebuild mine. The remote shifter is needed to put the shift knob in the right place. On the 2000E, the shifter is pretty close to the bellhousing. The other thing you may have to figure out is how to mount the gearbox....

Hi Ron, I think there is some conflicting information between your post and the Lotus 7 register, but overall it's pretty accurate. I'm not going to argue who's right because I'm not sure. http://www.lotus7register.co.uk/ser2page.htm

What is your existing transmission? 2000E? Type 2? Type 3? For a t9, You may want to give these guys a call: http://www.batinc.net/main.htm They deal in Merkur xr4ti and scorpio parts in the US and if they don't have a transmission, they may be able to give you a lead on one.

The white/blue smoke on start up is a symptom of oil leaking past the valve stem seals - a common problem on crossflows and likely not related to your problem. Rather than replacing your plug wires - why not check the resistance first? There's no sense replacing something if it doesn't need replacing Assuming it's a later super sprint, it should have the aldon dizzy which is pretty reliable. Otherwise points and condenser is a good place to start. The pertronix have also been known to go bad. Interesting about the lack of residue on #4 - but this could just be a symptom of your carb turning. I agree with others to check your float bowl height. Also check to make sure your floats aren't cracked. One thing you may want to do is run it for a few seconds at the RPM's it generally misses and then pull the plugs. See if any of them are overly wet. Again - it also may help to pull the carb cleaners off and run the engine at the RPM it generally misses at and listen for the cylinder(s) that are missing.

Check that one of your venturi's hasn't come loose. This is a common problem with 40 DCOE 151's that caterham used on the super sprint. Can you pull off the carb covers to try to determine which cylinder is missing?