Croc

The person you need to talk with is Bruce (11budlite on this forum). He has got his Birkin through CT. He may still have the bumper bars that are needed to pass inspection (no I am not joking). There have been Caterhams registered in CT in the past, so it can be done. Congratulations on the new CSR. I love mine and am sure you will be thrilled with yours. I have a bunch of technical info and manuals for it if you ever need - PM me off line.

Who wants to buy a D50? http://www.hallandhall.net/stock.asp?StockID=1664

I was suggesting THREE (3) days not four (4). But if you old farts would like to go home early and take up knitting or crochet, I understand

Hi Dave - I think you have hit a winner. Head is low enough to make it safe. Yes your view ahead is looking out more with your eye level but should be ok since: 1) you can drive to the track with the regular seat mounted in and take it out once here. 2) you dont have to dodge potholes on a track - its pretty smooth. 3) lining up a car for an apex can be done with your feel on how wide the car is and the face you can see a fair bit out the side. You may want to run with door off (can an S1 do that?) to enhance your spatial vision on where you are on the track. 4) You can use the separate front wheels as a good guide as to where things are. The view out should still be better than some of the formula cars I have driven. THis is a good question. The seat and harness has to be the same. SO you have 3/4/5 point harness driver side then there needs to be same 3/4/5 pointer on the passenger side. I would make sure you have enough foam to make an identical seat for the passenger. Remember he (or she) has to be as low as you - and we can ask for a short instructor. For learning the line I would suggest finding some youtube videos of Lightning and studying those to memorize the corners in advance or arriving. At least this way you can understand the layout. We can then borrow the map in the classroom when we are there to walk you through corner by corner and also point out the classic areas where mistakes happen - there are 3 spots that are worthwhile knowing. Lightning is a nicely intuitive circuit so with your past driving experience I feel confident you will do well getting to grips with the place. Lastly, you can always follow me for a session. I did this last year with Bball on Thunderbolt to help him understand things first time on that track.

Now call me greedy but I suspect I am not the first person on this forum who is thinking maybe a few sevens drivers from the Sat and Sun NJMP sevens event should just stay and extra day and have a third day on track playing around? Anyone interested in joining me for a third day - June 22, 23 and now 24 with LTW?

Evil but true for a Lambo! :jester: However, the car photographed is a McLaren which is also true as I have driven against a McLaren on the circuit. The secret to keeping ahead of a McLaren on track is making sure you are not on a real power circuit with lots of straights where a seven tops out on speed. Both JBH (in his 200hp Zetec Caterham) and I can stay ahead at our local track. Not so for a Ferrari 458 though! I remember the gentleman. Really nice guy. I spent a good time chatting about all manner of cars. Very knowledgeable and he knew how to throw a Countach around without it biting him back.

Tony only looks at Caterhams - he's snobbish! :jester:

Exoticars Milford NJ is having an open house on Sunday. I am there to pick up my spare tires and check out the work done on the seven and of course check out what tasty treats are in the shop being worked on. They always have something amazing to drool over. Then it is back home to keep working. So I will miss the drive sadly as it does look like a good one.

Such a rarely seen Westfield version. I really like the look of it. Thank you for sharing the photos on the forum.

If you are down this way in June and will make it that far south then you have 2 additional options: 1) Bruce Bowker's Milford NJ run is always a good one with the seven crowd. I think we set the date as Sat Jun 8 this year. 2) On June 22 and 23 our sevens day at NJMP happens - it is only an hour out of Philly to the east and probably closer to the way you would track home anyway. Even if you dont drive it would be good to meet in person and join us for dinner on the Saturday night.

Jeff - In some fairness to Mary, the outside of turn 5, particularly at exit was covered in that white pwder from where the oil/coolant let go on the Evora earlier that day. If you had an early apex plus a compromised track surface and therefore marginal grip at the exit then the rear will rotate and car exits stage left. Show-off!!! :jester:

Uh oh... sounds like you went driving with another member of this forum? Or was it your usual DC area traffic accident?

Great news Stuart - well done. :hurray: Time for an extended reliability test that it looks like Spring may have finally arrived.

hi Steve - PM sent

While I have 3 GoPros HD2s (now known as GoPro HD Silver) that I use for track work, I would not recommend them wholeheartedly. Each has been fully replaced under warranty within 12 months of purchase and one of those replacements has already been sent back to have the shutter button repaired. None were mistreated or subject to dropping or impact damage although all have been mounted on the seven during track events, mounted on me for skiing and taken sailing, skydiving and snorkeling. I have the optional remote and find that it is a pain to consistently pair up plus it chews up batteries like nothing else. in Belgium last weekend I tested a Drift HD Ghost using a Manfrotto mount with ball head and it was excellent. Remote just paired up automatically, I could swivel the lens to get the right angle, it handled the snow well (i.e. it is waterproof), and the inbuilt screen made aiming a breeze. Its a nice slimmer profile than a Go Pro. It did not produce any rolling shutter effect at 1080 and exposure was surprisingly good on a bad weather day. And it comes as 1 package - no need to buy anything extra other than a good roll bar mount (manfrotto super clamp or RAM). GoPro charges extra for everything - skeleton case, remote, external mic, cable, etc. So the Drift Ghost works out much cheaper on a like for like spec than the GoPro Silver. I will upload a test example to youtoob tonight to give you an idea. So I think your real comparison should be between the Replay and the Drift HD Ghost. While I have not tried the Replay, I have used bullet cams (VIO POV) in the past and like them. Bullet cams are really easy to mount securely and nicely discreet.

For all track days I think you need to consider taking some tools, spares and miscellany but there is no need to go whole hog with a custom uber-luxurious trailer with flatscreen tv and wall mounted Bose speakers. I would go with the longer trailer bed just to give flexibility. For example, the most common track day issue at NJMP always seems to be tires - e.g. puncture in 1 needs the replacement of all 4 because there is no matching spare mega wide 10 inch slick (Yellowss7), need to run intermediate mega grippy slicks because it is slightly cold (Blubarisax), or "I had my third spin in a session and destroyed another rim and tire" (Kitcat:rolleyes:)....so I would get at least one extra matching wheel and tire to mount on the trailer and you would have a good spare to change to if a puncture happens and the day is not a bust. (I think your car runs same tire/wheel all around?) Use the extra trailer bed to also mount a nice big lockable box to transport tools or something? Of course you could be as minimalist as me and not have anything other than 2 cans of tire slime (track has an inflator), jack, torque wrench, some oil, and 2 Sparco rally bags full of tools and useful items (WD40, cable ties, duct tape, spanners, screwdrivers, allen keys, etc). Even so I did have concerns about not having a spare wheel/tire given the other guys problems.

Do tell more - there are always keen buyers lurking on this forum keen to spend money. Looks like a Duratec 180hp roadsport spec SV?

Hi Jeff - Caterham USA should give you that information. It is a pre-programmed setup that is not fully configurable like the standard Stack dash. I found what I recall - this may help: http://regins.dk/dashboard_stack.pdf Here is the Stack manual page - may help: http://www.stackltd.com/support3.html Also look at these Blatchat postings http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=174671 http://www.blatchat.com/t.asp?id=163764 Also pages 8 to 10 of the Caterham owners manual has a discussion on configuring alarms. The lap timer needs a beacon installed to work but that will only work on race days because you need a sender unit at the start finish line: http://caterham.co.uk/assets/html/technical/download.html

You have to really try the seat to find out if it fits you. Tillets normally do not work for me except the B2. For my next seat I would do a bead/resin seat. This is the type where you mix resin and polystyrene beads in a plastic bag, sit in it to squish it to the right shape and then stay seated while you suck all the air out with a vacuum. Give it 45 mins while staying seated so it can cure then you have your seat. To finish it off you can trim the rough edges and cover it in nomex fabric. In a Caterham you can do it two ways - lift off the seat base on the existing road seat and just have a resin bead pad, or you can take out the whole seat and get a really big bag of beads and resin and form the whole seat (squab and backrest) within the space. If it were me I would do the second of these options. Yellowss7 has one in his seven and I have been borrowing a seat pad version at Spa this weekend for the Caterham.

Blubarisax has an SV chassis so the doors will be longer than those for an S3 chassis.

In the NJ/PA area at NJMP and Pocono SA2005 and SA2010 are allowed. SA2000 is no longer allowed. I believe even Monticello follows this.

Well.... that is actually one of the series of Philippe Petit photos from when he did a tightrope walk across the gap between the two WTC towers in 1974. So the chicken was really quite a brave lunatic. [/url]

Not so quick - the roll bars are the same size on the CSR and SV. Its only the type that varies (tall/FIA/regular/etc). So it may just fit. A bit of reading the SBFS website might answer the question.

I have the SBFS double entry hald hood on my CSR. Excellent for touring in summer and reduces buffetting wind coming around the screen. If ordering/buying one, check what roll bar you have - regular, track/FIA, short, tall, etc

Dont need a carbon engine undertray as the CSR was largely faired in by thin ali sheeting - which by the way is fractionally lighter than the equivalent carbon fiber. It really does not matter about installing it though - with a northerly breeze I still get airborne over the back straight hump on Thunderbolt - even with a passenger. :ack: