Croc

The latest version of Caterham 170 has this big spoke wheel. Same dimensions as the Weller wheel posted above by WDB.

Those style of wheels were used on the first iteration of the Caterham 7 160. They are much narrower than the standard Caterham wheel. 14x4.5 dimensions so different. Not sure if Weller made the Caterham versions but they are similarly styled.

Progress is slow....non-existent is another word. In between my 180,000 miles on a plane this year in 30 something countries for work, I have been focused on making significant progress on my other project cars - the BMW, the white Holden, the Range Rover and the Cossie Escort. While great progress has happened there, the Caterham has languished. Bruce has been focused on his very successful Caterham race series. He is losing so that might cause him to refocus . I am planning to regroup with Bruce in person in early December to work out a plan for getting it done in 2023.

Keep in mind that Caterham parts sold in the US came from somewhere - they were shipped in from the UK, albeit in bulk instead of a single order. If you do not need Caterham (authentic) parts then try places like Summit or Pegasus for the small stuff such as mirrors. Another idea is print out the catalog from Car Builder Solutions UK and then using the item you find in the catalog, google the parts description for a stateside parts source. I have found assorted bits that way. Another source for Twin Cam and Crossflow engines and trasnmission bits: Vintage Racecar Engines, Portland, OR (iveyengines.com) Old Lotus parts can be sourced here: Home for Vintage Race Car parts (leechapmanracing.com) Suspension bits here LOTUS 7 parts Locost body parts and other assorted bits here Kinetic Vehicles

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@Cueball1 Whats your view on Proxibid? I have always associated it with government disposals, bankruptcy sales, and salvage sales. It tries to be a regular auction house hence the (offensive) 15% buy commission but it is a long way short of that on service levels.

LOL Bruce, is this a nakedly transparent attempt to drum up publicity in the sales section of USA7s because you have not paid your membership fee? As for PC Car Market - they are trying to come back after a long decline. Am curious to see if they can do it. They are not a place I get searchbots to look at because their website is a PITA to work with. Given my Sunday morning time is valuable I focus on the major sites. The good thing for a buyer is they will find a value deal on the sites I miss if the sellers are not being as focused as you.

@slowdude The good news about being FP&A is that it is in huge demand in the NY area if you want to step outside the auto industry and I bet you could make the shift. Given the salary inflation resets going on presently this is a time to consider opportunities. I would be skeptical about your specific auto co. staying in the NYC suburbs for the long term anyway - its high cost and sooner or later leadership wakes up. They had a wobble once before.

Congratulations! Very well done! What HSR class are you running? Also, what is the Ginetta running as an engine? It took off quick in race 1.

calling @xcarguy

It is but someone has to pay it since that is the end price. You can hedge currency fluctuations but that is an insane concept on a car purchase too. Not fair on the dealer to wear all the FX risk since they do not make a massive profit margin that would cover that. I have often wondered if there better option but yet to see it.

There are other Avon manufacturing facilities - Serbia for example. The tires only stop production if not enough people buy them.

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I do like how this thread sometimes goes off topic... Yes I will admit to that but you missed the bit where I said "...provided I can have a drive of the T70 on track."

But on the plus side: 1) The dollar is very strong against the pound 2) Shipping costs are starting to head down as the supply chain crunch eases and excess cargo space is seeing shippers consolidate their voyages and lay off ships. Overall it should be a modest net saving.

Lovely color!

There is a big distinction between racing events or just a regular track day. That said, you will want to consider safety upgrades on your new Caterham once it arrives. There are a number of good track day operators in the North East to try. Likely next season given the timing of your car arriving.

Hi Charlie, Welcome to USA7s with your first post and congratulations on finding a sweet little Caterham. Having a Dave Andrews engine is a good thing so it should be sorted there. Lots to unpick in your email. I will first off say that a Caterham is better to drive on track than a Lemons car! I notice you are NJ/RI. Strong suggestion is do not try to title/register a Caterham in NJ. It is a pain of a state for sevens and anything imported internationally. They wanted my last (over 25yo) RHD car to be converted to LHD. While I have not checked RI requirements, that state (or any other state) has to be easier than NJ. In upgrading your car to SCCA standards, I am going to assume you are not wanting to fully conform the car to the specific Caterham run class (either F or E) as that involves more indepth changes like engine conversions as I cannot envisage SCCA accepting a Rover K series readily. So sticking with safety, here is an example of a top performing Caterham race car (along with its driver!) - use the photos to get an idea to compare to yours (as it is currently) on the level of changes needed. (9) Marketplace - 2001 Lotus Super 7 | Facebook So the high level changes will be: - cage - seat/harness - fuel system - cell/etc - electrical cut out - tires - up rate brake pads - suspension set up - plus driver safety kit The SCCA experts who should chime in here are @James A and @craig chima For roll cage, there is a guy in NJ/DE who has done a number of compliant cages for a few Caterhams locally. Calling @yellowss7 Tom - who did the cages for Jeff and you? One thing to note is that I am always uneasy when I see full cage sevens driven on the street as you should really wear a helmet in case you whack your head against a cage bar in an incident. Something to consider. @yellowss7 Tom is also your resident K series expert as he has a genuine Rover K series Superlight. So he can tell you how he goes about sourcing parts - mostly direct from the UK like many of us. There are 3 Caterham owners resident at NJMP - myself, Tom and Simon. A new buddy to play track tag with is always welcome! You also have a few owners up in CT area for Thompson @11Budlite @wemtd @Black Hole So a number of folk who would be more than happy to share their local track persepctives. Cheers mike

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Congratulations on your acquisition. I thought you got a good buy. Needs work but price was right. Looks fantastic. Its not unusual to have to fettle a seven to get it reliable. All of mine have seemed to require that - then years of no issue motoring. First thing, you have a neighbor with a Caterham - calling @kayentaskier to the chat. I think Jim calls on Josh at Rocky Mountain if he has major issues. You don't say if you will be doing this or need someone to do it for you. Jim can advise if there is someone local in St George. Nice town by the way - I leaked my way through there last year on my road trip. Given everything has to come out to get to the clutch (and you might as well replace any consumables in there at the same time) this is a bigger job that normal. You won't know what the parts order list is until it is all out. Ask yourself what your goal in for the car? Quiet backroads? Monster straight-line performance? As it is set up there is 300hp on narrow rear wheels with tire rubber that is better suited to a GT car. Not a particularly idea formula as 300hp on skinny wheels gives you all the traction of a cat in a wet bathtub. Not something you want carving a few canyon roads. But the look of the car is sensational - really well presented in the classic style. Following on from MPH above in the time honored "if it were my car" theme, I would play on the cars presentation and go for a classic look but upgrade the handling ability and dial the power back since you are backroad focused. Less is more. So back to naturally aspirated with Webers on the big valve twin cam. Drop off the turbo stuff and EFI. Re rate fuel pump and scale down the oil/water pump flows. Less aggressive clutch. Definitely LSD. I would think long and hard about different tires - a top quality performance rubber on the 13 inch wheels but try to preserve the existing snowflake wheels as they are the original for the 80s. Either way you want to stay on 13 inch wheels for the best handling/performance. Oh and drop some classic looking gauges in the dash instead of the wrong look autometer pro comp ones. Twin Cam may not require any work but clearly there are open questions on fueling, timing, flows, etc. Big thumbs up! More people should take this approach.

Sounds like an extreme kangaroo throttle which is common in Caterham CSRs but the heat connection (i.e. only does it when warm) makes it different. Sticky throttle mechanism in pedal box or at throttle bodies?

Older style in front of radiator Older style SV nose cone Thats too cold. You would not be burning off the moisture/particulates in the oil at that temp. Blanking is essential then. Ok you are measuring at the tank. Mine was tapped at the engine. It will be cooler by the time it gets to the engine. No don't do that. Every time I saw that tried I saw someone rebuilding an engine from oil supply interruption. Looks like you have either a 92 or 102F version. Given year I suspect 102F and the nose cone is keeping it lower. Yes agree. I have the modine on my CSR260 and it works great to get oil up to temp quickly and peg the oil and water temps in sync for road. However, on track in summer the oil temps can be fearsome causing me to come in if I reach red zone.

Well said. Anyone who puts sweat equity into a build should be respected. It may not to be some of our tastes but USA7s is a broad church intended to respect varying individual interpretations of the core Lotus 7 ethos.

There is a reasonable network of Holden owners in the USA - we have a loose connection with each other. I know a guy with a collection of Valiant Chargers and another with a bunch of XD/XE utes. It takes all types. Mine below. Bought long ago before the value run up. The SS (not A9X) is a replica livery although was raced long ago - needs bare metal restoration. Slowly getting into taking the Blue Meanie restoration seriously - the current value of it scared me into it. The Torana and Blue Meanie are road registered here.

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