xcarguy

Tom, You read my very thoughts. This is what in looking at. Got my wheels turning: http://www.uflyit.com/streamline_fairings.htm

Kevin, You're also running Brooklands, so you may be interested in this mod (left it out if the previous post). This mod helped tremendously with reducing airflow underneath the Brooklands at speed: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25040 Also, if click on the link in my signature on any of my posts, it will take you to my Gallery file. The last two pages of my file has all the mods from the previous post. Shane

Yep, I wouldn't mind having that to keep the Storker company.

Many of us are now running full roll cages on our Sevens, and for good reason. But just how much drag do these round tubes produce? This is an old video, but the conclusions are just as valid today as when they were first realized: . . . . . . :rofl:

Gale, Do you have photos you can post?

Busa, Average looking? Really? Don't think so. Are those LED's along the bottom of the nose? . . . . Not average.

:iagree: . . . . . . :lurk:

I've always loved the 'look' of the S1. It's the car that got me interested in Sevens to start with (sat in a roller in 2000 at Doug and Ronnnie Reed's Superformance toy store in Chalmette, LA).

jevs, The bolts may very well be included with the covers; call your local GM parts department and verify. However, I cannot stress enough the importance of 'safety first'. A friend of mine owned a 1957 Corvette that he dragged raced regularly during the season. While it has been several years ago now since this happened (and safety standards have changed for some very good and obvious reasons), his clutch blew one night. When the clutch failed, it took the flywheel with it. He somehow (miraculously) escaped any serious harm, but the shrapnel pretty much disintegrated the stock bell housing and the fiberglass trans tunnel as well as cause additional damage to the car . . . as one can imagine. I mean no disrespect, and I'm absolutely not intentionally trying to sound preachy, but you’re building a high performance car designed for high performance driving. I would not let the fact that you ‘already’ own an aluminum bell housing detour you from making a change that’s geared toward your long-term safety and peace of mind. My shop is litered with ‘parts trophies’ (some brand new, unused and still in the box) that have gone by the wayside for whatever reason. Having said that, if you do opt for the aluminum bell housing, please, at the very least, consider using a bell housing safety blanket for that ‘just in case’ moment. Something such as this: http://emracingcorp.com/scripts/prodList.asp Were you to go with a steel bell housing, I believe this is what you may need, but you would want to confirm this with Lakewood: http://lakewoodindustries.com/ls1-to-dodge-viper.html

jevs, The only thing seperating yourself from the clutch is an aluminum bell housing and the the thin aluminum tunnel cover. If the clutch ever decided to 'give it up' the outcome would be dire at best. I would suggest using a Quick Time bell housing, especially if you plan on tracking the car. Here is an article pertaining to a T56/Quick Time/LSx install . . . . food for thought: http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/1109tr_project_novakane_transmission_clutch/photo_21.html

Bringing back memories. :cheers:

MNlotus, The original term is Gurney Flap (you can thank Dan Gurney for their existence). Not sure where they go on the Cat, but a Gurney Flap is typically added to the trailing edge of a wing to create additional lift (in our case, additional down force). My Stalker is in the process of getting Gurney Flaps added to the front and rear wings. Here's a good artical for reference: http://allamericanracers.com/the-gurney-flap/

Justin, A few positive comments in this thread regarding ZZR's: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=9550 :cheers:

. . . . this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesla-TORQ-Carbon-Roadster-Black-Black-2013-torq-100-electric-f-1-inspired-closing-ev-division-/380974381934?forcerrptr=true&hash=item58b3d7bb6e&item=380974381934&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

Seb, PM Croc. He sent these out to all via email.

Kevin, If interested, here are links to the mods I’ve made to Stalker #85 regarding aero/down force. The first two links show how I mounted the wings (at the time, aluminum), both front and rear. Front wing mount: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=20707 Rear wing mount: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=20677 The following link depicts my change from aluminum units to carbon fiber. I used the existing front wing mount for the CF wing as well as the existing rear mounts for the rear CF wing. Front and rear CF wing: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=24683 I enclosed (as much as possible) the underside of the engine bay for improved undercar airflow: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22236 You’ve seen my diffuser, but here it is again. BTW, I think your diffuser is fine as is: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22874 I added louvers to the front fenders to help evacuate high pressure air form between the tire and the fender:: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=20708 I added small tabs to the tops of the front and rear fenders to decrease lift in those areas. Front fender: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=23374 Rear fender: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25162 My latest mod has been to the hood due to excessive lift of the hood at the rear where the lip mates to the cowl. See the hood lift video and the link to my resolve. Hood lift video: Hood mods: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=26697 Once I did the head/cam mods to my engine, it was evident that I had outgrown the small slicks I had been running. I move from a square 15 x 10 setup to a staggered 16x12 rear and 16x10 front: Previous 15” square setup: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=22340 Current 16” staggered setup: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=25146 For an idea of how the car performs with the current mods, see the video in this thread (please excuse the music and the inaccurate tach on the Traqmate—I didn’t have the mic turned on for the run nor did I have the Trqmate tach properly calibrated, however, the GPS speed and G-forces are accurate: http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?t=9745 My next planned mods are to fully enclose the drive shaft as well as add Gurney flaps to both the front and rear wings. :cheers:

Because building is rewarding. Nobody knows your Birkin better than you.

toedrag, Make your tunnel cover removable . . . . You'll thank me later down the road. I ended doing a slight frame mod on #85 for steering shaft position: http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=6981

Great shots all around. :cheers: I think we may have found us a forum photographer.

A few more shots of that car: chassis #66 http://www471.pair.com/stalkerv/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=18069

I'll have to say . . . . once again . . . I've never seen a locost that looks so much like a factory build. :cheers:

I wanted to add to subtle’s comment regarding a good 60' time. When I was a kid in high school, I used to head off the drags nearly every weekend with a buddy of mine whose dad drag raced. We kids were the pit crew, and I have to say that helping out with that car was a huge learning experience, especially when I got to help stage the car (burn out and lineup). At the time, his dad ran a ‘74 Vega with a 327 cid SBC backed by a Lenco transmission, with which he was very competitive and very consistent. This was in the late 70's and on one occasion, I remember him running a 4.90 in the eighth. The reason I remember that time specifically is that on that same night, a jet powered car came in for an exhibition run; the jet car also turned a 4.90. That’s all gee wiz, but getting back to the 60’ time, the majority of drag races are won at the starting line, and a good 60’ time will absolutely (literally) cut tenths off of your E.T. This gets us back to the issue of Storkers :jester: being 'tractionally' challenged (add that to Webster's) at the starting line. As we know, these cars, while not set up for it, can be drag raced. John Meyer turned a sub ten second run with his at 140 plus. And I do indeed look forward to hearing back from MightyMike again once he slaps a set of drag radials on his beautiful car and finds the sweet spot with the go pedal off the starting line; he'll end up shaving an easy two seconds off his time. Having said that, imagine how well these cars would run down the strip if they were truly set up for such a task. :cheers:

Mike, I can't remember if this came up one of our earlier discussions, but when you took the gorgeous green beast to the drag strip, what gear were you using off the line?

subtle, I've never even attempted to acheive a 1.3 60'. As you know, these cars, simply put, just aren't set up for the strip. Rear end geometry would need some tweaking, drag shocks and softer springs would be a must and, of course, drag radials. In all honesty, I've never mashed the go pedal all the way in first gear. A second gear launch is challenging enough as it is. :ack:

Steve, Glad to hear all went well with your surgery! I won't lie, grabbing that John Deere award came with a huge trade off; I think I sucked a big portion of my seat cover up my . . . .well, you know . . . . before I got the car back on track. :smilielol5: As for HP, I'm currently working on a molecular HP tranfer devise, using transfer pods similar to those employed by Jeff Goldblum in The Fly :puke:. But in this case, we stick both our cars in one pod, puch the BIG RED button and see what comes out the other side. However, earlier test results using The Stig and a large grasshopper revealed that further tweaking is needed . . . . . :bs: