Ferrino

That's a pretty extreme comparison: you can have a more modern powertrain and enjoy the benefits of EFI without compromising on aesthetics and sound! By that I mean the massive 15" wheels and my biggest peeve: the lowered headlights. Slap a set of ITBs on a Duratec and I think you'd be hard-pressed to say it sounds crap compared to the X-Flow. I really can't get over the new headlight position. The first time I ever sat in a Seven, it was the original headlights that defined the look of the car. The new location is awful, in my opinion. I would have a X-Flow on skinny tires over a 620 any day of the week.

Thanks awatkins: I was under the impression sequence numbers were issued right at the beginning of the process - it sounds like that changed. I had no idea that "labor" was used in the use tax calculation either! I work really slowly - does that mean it will essentially be zero dollars? :-) Hopefully SB100 will not go away - I always feel like it is in danger of extinction, though, and I will be left with a very expensive ornament in my garage.

Hi all. I have a question which is not directly related to the recent CARB-related issues with completing SB100, but I'm hoping I can get some help, please. A couple of years ago, I bought a used (imperial) chassis from Texas, which was formerly part of a fully assembled and TX-registered car (it also came with a bunch of parts to get me started). For me, it represented a blank canvas, to build my ideal car from scratch. I am very slowly building it back into a complete car (albeit it with my own drivetrain, for which I have maintained receipts). I have always been unclear if I should initiate the SB100 process now (with completion probably still more than 1 year away), or wait until the car is closer to being on the road. I have always been a bit worried about the SB100 process being terminated, so was wondering if I should just present my receipts, pay my fees, get my number, and start the process today. If I did so, is there any disadvantage? If I get a SB100 number now, is there a deadline, before which you must complete the process? Very grateful for any thoughts on this.

Thanks papak!

As someone building an ITB induction Caterham in CA, I am interested to know this too. Sounds like I may need to put a bung in the air filter backplate for the inspection. I'm not familiar with the RBTB intake, but it sounds like a massive pain to have to switch to a plenum intake to pass - do you have ECU maps for both plenum and RBTB?

Sorry if this has been posted before, but I learned that there is a Caterham episode of the UK show "Car SOS", and it is available to stream on Disney+ in the US. It's Season5: Episode 8. A rather touching story.

Hi - I'm converting an older chassis to 2.0 Duratec power and could definitely use these parts! I will drop you a message.

Thank you both for your suggestions on the ferrule and solder methods for the M-Unit sockets!

Steve, what are those terminals that insert into the M-Unit called, please? Do they just crimp onto the wires? Seems a much better solution than just inserting bare stranded wires... For the AUX relays, I believe you can configure them to come on as soon as the M-Unit is unlocked - there is a setting.

I'm looking for a key-operated switch, to serve as a backup for the Bluetooth unlocking system (or it may end up being the primary key). It obviously doesn't need to be a beefy column-mounted affair, since only a tiny current will pass through it and I don't have the column-lock mechanism. Not sure where I will mount it yet. Any ideas, please? How about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Removable-Position-Terminal-30-1086-01/dp/B01MYXBTVZ/ref=psdc_5739466011_t3_B019I12414#customerReviews

The Motogadget manual calls for a 40A fuse between the battery and the M-Unit. they call it the "vehicle main fuse".

I asked Motogadget about this. They suggest you always have a physical switch (as a backup, in case your phone dies). That could be a simply key-operated switch or just a hidden latching switch.

Yes, but that doesn't create more capacity - you are still limited to 1x20A and 1x10A aux outputs. It would be hard to get all EFI outputs on there (fuel pump, fan etc). Then you may need wipers, instrumentation, wideband, ECU...

Congratulations, JR! Can't wait to see/hear it in action! I finally bought my M-Unit Blue, after months of trying to decide between this and a PDM. In the end, I decided that I preferred the simplicity (and price point) of the M-Unit setup and didn't need the hassle of the PDM programming and CAN bus functions. The only downside, as has been mentioned before, is the M-Unit could do with a few more circuits for EFI.

Thanks, but I did mention in my post that none of the off-the-shelf items appeal to me. I do not need any of the logic and I really don't like the button layouts.

I'm thinking about doing my own wireless steering wheel setup, since none of the off-the-shelf items appeal to me. Does anyone see a reason why I couldn't use one of these cheap RF (433 Mhz) setups to control 4 relays? I wouldn't be using these relays to pass high current - I just want to use them to trigger another relay. https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver-Universal-Controller/dp/B08CCVJWL9/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=4+channel+12v+wireless+switch&qid=1605465547&s=electronics&sr=1-2 I'm assuming that I could remove the transmitter from the fob and convert the 4 buttons into proper momentary buttons on the wheel with some soldering. My main question is about RF @ 433 Mhz in a car. Could it cause interference with something? It looks like other wireless steering products use RF, so probably not, but I wonder if the frequency is important. Cheers!

Predictable, low grip and cheap - SOLD!

Very interesting! I have one set of 13s dressed in Toyo 888s and was thinking of getting a second set with a tire more suited to colder and wetter conditions on the road. I'd be very interested to hear how they do in the wet. Thanks.

Curious how the "Bluetooth Keyless Go" works when you have a key switch also? Do you toggle between using either the key or Bluetooth to unlock the system? Or is the Bluetooth always supplementary to having the key switch closed? Curious what happens if you use Bluetooth to unlock and the M-Unit loses pairing with the phone. I like the idea of keyless ignition - I've just always had a bad experience with my phone's intermittent Bluetooth connections with cars!

Thanks. If you moved your coolant fan to a separate relay, what did you end up using the AUX2 output for? Water pump? Does your Cartek module work with the "park" function on your wipers? Where are your injectors and ignition coils getting power from?

Jefferson - great to hear about your progress! I'd love to see your final wiring diagram if you have a chance. I'm curious how many traditional relays you needed to add, outside those catered for by the M-Unit.

I feel the need to warn you lot that there are very different meanings to the adjective (to be chuffed), the verb (to chuff) and the noun (chuff). With very little margin for error, we have covered pleasure, flatulence and the female genitalia :smilielol5:

I also had this issue with Chrome recently. It seems to perceive the site as "not secure" and block the formatting/layout. If you click on that text (on the left of the address bar) and go to Site settings: you can mess around with one of the settings and revert it back to normal. Sorry, I can't remember which one did it for me.

Thanks John. It's confusing because some lithium battery manufacturers have taken it upon themselves to list a "lead equivalent" Ah rating on their batteries. So it makes it hard to compare with, say, an AGM, which has a better discharge profile than SLA. Often they will list the actual capacity in terms of W/Hr, which you can then translate into the actual A/Hr.

Thanks for the feedback and suggestions. LiFePO4 appears to be a bit of a minefield. Despite being known as the safest lithium chemistry, I have seen examples of exploded cells and meltdowns which make me a bit nervous. I'm sure most of this is down to "operator error", but it makes you think. I'm trying to stay in the sub-$200 price range, so the Battery Tender/Deltran offering is interesting ($200, 8Ah, 4 lbs). How about Shorai? They have a unit on Amazon for $172 that weighs in at 3lbs and is also approx 8Ah: https://www.amazon.com/Shorai-Lithium-Power-Sports-Battery/dp/B0088JGV2Q Also: is there a unified definition of "CCA"? For example, the Odyssey PC680 has a CCA of 170. The Deltran is 480. The Shorai is 315. Given the PC680 is the gold standard for lead acid, should I assume that these LiFePO4 choices are as good at starting in cold temps?