m wirth

one from the NW, no affiliation. http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/5379865998.html

Well the weather here didn't make for a good drive on new years day so had to wait for today, 40 degrees and sunshine but low angle sunshine and lexan make for compromised vision, still a beautiful drive even my dog wanted to go.

Well....not really a joke but some holiday fun. Type in a Christmas song, a word or a naughty word. best to all this season mike wirth https://www.sundoginteractive.com/carolofthechins/flash/card.swf

when doing my flaps I followed the inside curve of the fender on both sides effectively gusseting them from blowing back, more wind resistance but it is already a brick in cd measurements.

I hope this doesn't look to tacky, but it will give you an idea of what it would look like. I prefer functionality and these do a very good job, they are cut and shaped out of a rubber sheet. The rear covers are semi hard rubber sheets and do the job.

Maurice, thanks for the nice comment. Roman, here is the pattern, I just used some 1/4 mdf and a pattern cutting bit on my router shaper, held the lexan to the pattern with double sided tape. I used a slightly thinner polycarbonate than the existing windscreen. mike

Just finished these up today and went for a 35 degree sunny Blat to Crown Point in the Columbia Gorge, 50mph gusts. I think my left eye was 50 percent less frozen than without these wings so they should be great when I'm not wearing a helmet in more normal driving weather, I use an open face. Just another idea.

Hello, next season we will have to get together for some fun at The Ridge. It is my second favorite track in the NW, Oregon Raceway Park is where most of my track days are, but I have been to the Ridge 6 times since it opened. mike

In regards to no v tech, check out this previous post, in my case it was the blue wire not making proper contact on the ecu board. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?6431-F20c-early-limiter-at-7000rpm mike

One more idea, have you used either the Lisle fill funnel or the Airlift, http://www.uview.com/index.cfm?DSP=ProductDetail&startrow=1&CategoryID=1330&SubCatID=0&ProductID=5120&pagepath=Products/Cooling&id=45700 to purge all air pockets, I had a problem motor that would over heat from air lock and even damaged my heater core, the funnel fixed it, and the Airlift is suppose to be better. mike

Several weeks ago at an HPDE event at Oregon Raceway Park I had the front cv mounting bolts fail, 4 had backed out and the last 2 sheared allowing the driveline to drop in the front and be cradled by the fore aft center frame. Nothing really happened at that time as I just ceased forward motion, from 85 mph, to parking on the side of the track and waited to be flat towed to the pits. Looked up from the rear of the car and yup driveline down. So get home and the next day pull it apart and find the aforementioned bolt situation and then I looked where the cv joint had been rubbing, first when it had come off and then the tow to the pits, right on top of the fuel lines and electrical cord. It had worn through the casing on the cord exposing a white wire and wore a shiny spot on the fuel line probably .005, which at this point I considered my self very lucky. When I purchased the car, 5 years and 8,000 miles(1600 track)ago, the builder said he had not put in the driveline loop yet, so I took it apart installed the loop and checked all the bolts, which were witness marked and tight to torque. Well obviously this needs to be done more often, but until the next inspection I have installed new bolts, Loctite and have safety wired all six forward driveline bolts, made a nifty jig, rear flange has grd 8 bolts with nylok nuts, also I installed a cross bolt on the loop to prevent the driveline from dropping and if it does I made guards for the front and rear, next time I have the diff out I will make a single piece guard. From pics I have seen of other Ultralite drive shaft areas none have protection of the lines, I hope this helps our small community.

You will enjoy your new Ultralite. Here is a pic under mine, it is deceiving from the angle taken but the frame directly across from the pan measures 4.75'' to the ground and the pan is 3.25'' to the ground. Clearance between the pan and the skid plate is just 3/16''. I think there is another pic in my album. mike sorry if the pic isn't there, it said it uploaded

You will enjoy your new Ultralite. Here is a pic under mine, it is deceiving from the angle taken but the frame directly across from the pan measures 4.75'' to the ground and the pan is 3.25'' to the ground. Clearance between the pan and the skid plate is just 3/16''. I think there is another pic in my album. mike

just wondering what the group thinks of the Falken Rt615k for a street tire, I currently use the Nitto NT01 for my track tire. thanks

you might follow this thread for several different ways to solve the problem http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?p=77890#post77890

a tip my dad taught me was to do it cold, if possible, and after the initial break loose turn 1/4 turn then turn back in and repeat with 3/4 turn out then back in, repeat until removed or plug turns easily by hand. It's kind of like when you are tapping a hole only in reverse. This will help prevent any galling if the plugs have been in a long time and haven't been removed to apply anti seize. Sometimes even using a hand impact driver with a plug socket to initially shock the threads will help if you are suspicious of seized threads.

both items are very nice, also where did you obtain the shift knob? thanks mike

mine is a little different, aren't we all, I also added the port for the sender as well as ground but I extented the neck so that it is above the bleed port on the block so as to be able to take the cap off without losing fluid.

you might want to double check the front studs, mine has Wilwood hubs and the threads are 1/2-24, my rear studs are the metric size you stated. Maybe there is a dual threaded stud for these hubs but Brian left them as from Wilwood.

I run the Falken rt615k, 225 front and 245 rear, for the street, and have good luck with them since I don't push them to track speeds. On the track I use the same sizes but use the Nitto nt 01 which are far superior to the falkens on the track and still return reasonable wear. I doubt if my hpde skill level will surpass the stick these tires provide.

Hi Bill, I made it, a "one off custom item". I think there are a couple other pics in my album.

Here is a post from a previous discussion, I think it is important to have a taper fore and aft to protect while backing. The weight issue is minimal since it is so low and this has taken some hits up in the mountains several times, unavoidable, and no harm to anything. http://usa7s.com/vb/showthread.php?p=73869#post73869

Seems like a lot of us think alike. They are great workhorses, this isn't real quick since it is a diesel but it pulls great.

all right!!! track day here we come. That will look great with your Killer Bee Helmet.