dallasdude

If you are using the stock fifth gear, I think the 4.11 is better in most cases. I need to look back at the gear charts and I think it makes the 4-5 shift happen about 10mph lower, so when the lose the 1500 rpm (and 20hp) it happens a speed where the it is easier for the car to still accelerate back up to the hp peak. It does make second totally unusable on the track however. I have a lightweight, ISF surface treated 4.11 I'm not using now.

This is what they look like. The ports are CNC'd and my guess is the Ford Racing logo is cut in at the same time.

Free rides at Eagles Canyon?

Yes I had someone who was going to buy it with their tax return money.....but they never came through so it's still for sale. It is brand new never used.

For track use only with the radials, on the front, I would put in about 2.5 degrees negative camber and a just a very small amount of toe out. Caster is not very adjustable but you want the max available and for it be equal sided to side. In the rear, you can shim or replace the dedion ears for additional camber, and you want a very small amount of toe in. I think with the stock old style camber plates, you get less than an degree of negative camber. The theory here is more negative camber is better also for redials, but now sure it adds much speed and it sure wears out the inside of your tires faster.

You may be able to change it in the Haltec software....which would be easier than changing the camshaft I would think. Under the Haltec software, under setup/basic/trigger...there may be a trigger and home setting that matches what you need. The camshaft is giving the home signal.....your main trigger setup should be the same....just home setup number of trigger teeth needs to be changed.

Roger Krause is the guy to buy Avons from....with might be fastest of all but no contingency program in the US. I staggered front to back sizes last year with radial slicks, but probably not worth the trouble. Never did with bias. You probably don't want a taller tire in the back anyway. Gearing. I see you have five choices from Hoosier. People tried the formula car tires several years ago and they are designed for a thousand pound car not a 1500 pound car, although I am not sure what the fast FP seven used at the runoffs at Laguna Seca. Sizes and Hoosier part number P185/60ZR13 46301 P205/60ZR13 46306 These are DOT radials and R7's are approaching the speed of the true racing tires. You can buy from Tire Rack and anyone can mount them. 190/530R13 43548 215/530R13 43549 Radial slicks These are expensive tires and are more difficult to mount. Buy from race tire dealers 20/8/13 43171 Cantilever bias slick. Takes the right machine and tire buster to mount. Buy from race tire dealers. Verify, but I believe all these tires are approved for a 6" wheel. I really think there is only a spread of 1-2 seconds from the fastest to the slowest tire....but fastest being the bias slick but at the end of a 40 minute race that has mostly gone away. The radials will require more camber in the front (simple realignment) and ideally different camber ears in the back. Hoosier has a several distributors in the Midwest, who in turn sell to dealers. If I wanted to just have a good time on track days....I'd buy the DOT radials....do a simple alignment in the front and call it a day. Big tires don't always mean faster lap times.

Should have said the smaller tires (radial slicks) I was talking about are the 190/530/13's. The 215's do benefit from a 7 inch rim vs a 6 with a slightly larger footprint.

I spent quite a bit of time last year talking to the chief engineer at Avon. They know these cars very well as they support six 7 type spec series in England. Seems that the series there use six and eight inch wheels. After all is said and done....they have a straight sidewall bias tire that they feel works best. The chassis has so much flex, at some point you are not accomplishing anything else by going to a wider tire. As I recall, he felt a bias tire with a flexible sidewall helped compensate for the flex. Chip Bond could confirm this, but I believe a lot of the still standing SCCA EP lap records were set on narrow Avon bias slicks over 10 years ago with 6 inch wheels. That said most of us are using a Hoosier radial slick. They have a contingency program for SCCA Majors. I used the Goodyear cantilevered bias slicks, but they quit making them a couple years ago. They did just start making cantilevered slicks again, but only in the 15 inch size. Hosier still makes a cantilevered bias slick that works well on 6 inch wheels. I personally think they are slightly faster than the radial slicks, especially for the first couple laps of a race. They tend to go away more over the course of a 40 minute race. We can now use 7 inch rims in SCCA, but the smaller Hoosier radial slick.....does not benefit from a 7" rim. The larger one maybe a little.

Tom's list of parts that are different is a good one....I might point out as part of the head being different....the variable intake cam pulley and cam followers are different, both of which are from what I know are pretty hard to come by. I think the SVT Focus dual mass clutch and flywheel were never used in a Caterham either.

The SVT head does flow better, especially the intake port which is whats important. The ports on the SVT are offset slightly up (about a half inch as I recall) so they may not match your manifold. Probably hurts flow a little bit and with some manifolds it leaks and hurts idle. You probably need to convert from the variable intake cam pulley too. I have one of the conversion kits but I not ready to sell it yet. Turbowood made them or knows who did. Yes, you will need cams as they don't interchange. Neither do the cam followers. A lot of the thicknesses for the SVT cam followers are NLA from Ford. I have exhaust cams but no intake and a few cam followers. I don't think anyone made aftermarket cams, but the intake is pretty big stock. All other things being equal, you will get quite a bit more compression. The standard head is about 48cc, the SVT about 42cc. SVT head with Focus/Coutour pistons will give you probably 10.5-1 or so. The SVT pistons have a little less volume and the head gasket is thicker. If you can get a regular head to flow what you want...it is less of a pain. The Ford racing head I have for sale I think flows just as much and has none of the drawbacks I mentioned. Unless your are replacing a SVT head it's probably the better deal.

I bought one of the crate engines like this from Gary Yeomans Ford in Daytona Beach several years ago for a real blowout price. I think they sold them all but you might want to check. Since, we have used engines that were used by Ford as test engines in the Focus factory in Mexico. For our use they were just as good as the crate engines. They were run on a test stand and then checked to be sure none of the fasteners had loosened. Never installed in a car.

Yes the invoice has that part number along with Ford Racing CNCed into the exhaust side of the head. Added to the above list I have a long input shaft T-9, freshly rebuilt by Dan Taylor. The rebuild was about $1400 and I provided the transmission and a REMed 5th gear. $1850 I have an additional REMed 5th gear for $125.

I have some parts I have too many of, and some that I just plain need to get out of the way. Pm me if you need additional information. Caterham Minitor (Minilite style) wheels. I have about 30 in various conditions. Mostly silver but I have a few black ones. 13X6. Price is from $90 to $140 depending on condition. Caterham copper stock radiator with SPA fan. $250 Caterham composite seat with rails. Has holes drilled for back support. $400 http://caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=123 Zetec Cylinder heads...not including cams, cam gears or cam followers VCT (Variable Exhaust Cam) I have a half dozen. $150 each SVT (Variable Intake Cam) I have one. $450 Focus (No Variable Cam) Some are cut, some have a fresh valve job. $200-$350 Ford Racing head (brand new Focus style) $850 I have a SVT intake pulley. These sell for stupid money but I will make someone a reasonable deal. Esslinger adjustable pulleys (work except for variable timing cams)$70 each I have a bunch of cams if you need something ask....but I have Comp cams stage 1 and stage 2 for Zetec new, unused for $135 each. These only work for the standard Focus (not VCT). SVT intake manifolds $375 upper and lower. $275 lower. SVT short block. Built from Ford test engine. Even though almost new, the rings and bearings were replaced by a professional engine engine builder and ARP rod bolts installed. Does not include oil pump $1450. MBE ECU $975 Miata Stock 5 speed transmission. Rebuilt and we used it for a couple times. Later style (99 up) shift tower. $400 Tilton Ultra lightweight steel flywheel with Powertrain Tech dual disk clutch.$650 Dry sump setup for 1600cc with Fast Forward pump and pan.$450 Prepared cylinder heads for 1600cc Miata I have a couple. PM if interested. All items are located in Dallas. If I can package it I will ship for the freight cost.

Jeff Sloan with British Auto Specialists in Ft. Worth has a Duratec SV demo and I'm sure will gladly take you for a ride. He's been selling and building Caterhams since 1999 and knows his stuff. Worth the trip I would think.

I bought a 2003 Boxster new and sold it last year...overall it was a pleasant and dependable car. I think about 2003 is when they added the terminal post in the footwell that let you power the battery to open the hood in an emergency. As someone mentioned, the bearing problem is important to get taken care of if the car is one of those affected....the biggest problem I see with Boxters vs a Miata or an S2000, the repair bills are 911 size, not Mazda or Honda size. Not that hard to have a $15,000 car that it costs $12,000 to repair. Boxsters may be the cheaper Porsches, but the parts and repairs costs are the same as the rest even though their residual values are far less.

Yes should be a new thread...but let me update the post I did. This is the link to live timing with hopefully camera feeds or Saturday and Sunday. Group 2 race is 10:30 AM Saturday and 8:55 AM Sunday. http://www.sccahost.com/live/

We're pulling for you George. In fact there should be a live audio and Race Monitor feed from the Majors event. http://www.scca.com/events/index.cfm?eid=6892 My impression of the Majors series overall has been good. They provide a level of standardization across the county, but local regions still have a lot of discretion as far as putting on the non Majors events.

Good advice. The reason everything has be set up when you put in a lsd is the lsd replaces the open carrier...which is what holds the ring gear. The precise position the ring gear had to the pinion gear is lost. There is a certain amount of science to doing this correctly but a little art also, so better to have someone install who had done it before.

SVT pump is exactly the same.... but I'm sure the factory design expects the stock balancer to always be on the engine.

This is from a previous post.....I'm not an engineering type but I stand by what I said. I never had one break but when I was racing a Miata, but I saw some oil pump failures when using an aluminum underdrive front pulley. The vibration without the balancer would even sometimes break the Miata throttle shaft, leading to catastropic engine failure.

Mick at Redline doesn't always respond to e-mail. He probably predates its invention by several decades. Sometimes calling him is sure thing....or send an e-mail and then call. He worked for Caterham I believe when they made the conversion to dedion. I think they always used the Sierra rear calipers on dedion cars, but he would know.

Determine if you have a Mystique/Contour flywheel or a Focus flywheel before purchasing replacement parts. The size of the friction surface and distance inside the towers is different. Bolt pattern of the pressure plates is the same, but again the friction surfaces are a little different. If the car came with a VCT engine, It's probably (although not certainly) the Mystique/Contour variant. If it is a Focus style flywheel....the Ford racing (Centerforce actually I think) package is a pretty nice piece for about 225 bucks. Not the lightest but durable and smooth. Sprung hub with metal surface on one side the the disk...fiber on the other.

The two companies I know that specialize in XR4TI parts are BAT in Sarasota, FL and a company just outside Chicago......can't remember their name. I do not believe any of the XR4TI axle parts will interchange. There was a discussion on this board a few months ago when left side axles were on backorder from Caterham, and I believe the final resolution was there was not an independent source for the CV joints themselves. Caterham sells the replacement boots, but not the joints.

The Dave Bean part # is 059C6040 for the stronger smaller spindle.