dallasdude

I'll take either one (or both is the other sale doesn't work out). Thanks

I have one you can have. It has a little worn place on it where they rub on the belt tensioner, but its not through. You can have just PM me your address if you want it. On our race cars we just used a beaded piece of aluminum tubing and a hose off the rack at NAPA.

yellowss7 is exactly right about the upgrade. The non updated parts are all Spitfire, readily available from Moss Motors. Bearings, seal, rotors. The updated assembly is easily recognizable as it has a large exposed nut on the end of the spindle (no cap). Both the inner and outer bearings with the update have a lip seal, and are very commonly used in Europe on trailers (caravans). Exactly same bearing is common for trailers in the US, but without the lip seal which is necessary for this setup.

Yes, it will affect the toe. You are moving the upper pivot point of the upright out or in to change the camber, so the will affect the relationship if the tie rod ends to the spindle (and wheel).

Looks pretty good to me. For track use lots of negative camber, positive caster, and toe out in the front. Always slightly toed in in the rear. This is a lot of caster however and will increase steering effort. When it says full forward on the wishbones....that should be the lower wishbones. Top wishbones are pretty well fixed. The spring rates are a little light for serious track work but probably a compromise. These tire pressures seem low but I'm not used to using these tires. Two things people miss if the car is lowered very much for track use. You need to put bump steer shims under the steering rack to offset the lowering. You can't use toe plates to accurately set the toe because on most wet sump cars, the rear tape is deflected by the oil pan.

As someone said, one of the weak links of the Zetec is the oil pump. The gear sits around the nose of the crank and it gets hammed by inline 4 secondary vibrations. You install ITBs and long cams, you create a power peak that is outside where you should turn a wet sump Zetec. Duratec has a different oil pump design (and a better crank balancer is available that absorbs some of the vibrations). Oil pump drives off a chain. The Boundary aftermarket pumps for Zetecs.....the conventional wisdom I think is 7500 for short periods. Actually you can reach the levels mentioned with a stock manifold at less then 7000 rpm. With a very broad torque curve.

If you think it might be vapor lock, one way to test is with running a tank of race fuel. It could the pump gas formulation might have changed in your state, based on season, etc. Race fuels almost always have a lower RVP and are more resistant to vapor lock.

This is a filler made with an o2 sensor bung and plug installed (Summit, Jeggs, etc). I have a cut down engine dipstick with a washer to keep it from dropping through for checking level. My transmissions have a drain installed, but this position for the filler allows a suction to go almost to the bottom. The other photo is of a Quaife top cover.....it helps stiffen the transmission and provide a real vent, but the filler is in the wrong place to be able to easily remove in a Caterham from under the scuttle.

I do know the casting number on both is the same. I have been meaning to order one from Moss Motors and see if they do in fact interchange. Most everything else is Spitfire in the braking system....might make sense they used the MC less the reservoir also.

Be sure you transmission/block alignment it correct. If you are using a block saver and the pan bolts to the transmission, then be sure there is an equal thickness spacer between the pan and the transmission. Might not be the problem but it is something to check. I

If you are running ITB's you don't have much choice since you don't have much of a vacuum source. If you have a throttle body, hook it up to intake vacuum, it will reduce fuel pressure slightly at idle and make injector sizing less of an issue. You can be a little large and still have some latitude at idle.

http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16079&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16081&stc=1http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=16080&stc=1

I will defend the guys who did this a little....yes they weren't cheap, but Raychem is all well and good if you are building a series of harnesses. For a one off or something the config might change on....you can very well rip it all back out. What if he installs a knock sensor like 1turbofocus recommends? I will admit I never used micro relays, but you can buy the Bosch style relays for 5 or 10 bucks almost anywhere. If you even suspect on is bad....you throw it away.

I agree with 1turbofocus 100% on the oil pump. I have posted a couple times here about the billet gears....not a problem with stock gears and oil pressure, but the harmonics of a 4 cylinder create a tremendous force that can shatter the powdered metal stock gears that fit around the nose of the Zetec crank in a wetsump configuration. It is something you cannot balance out. You actually have 4 choices. Use a dry sump that has a pump that runs off a belt, use billet gears that can handle the battering (much like being hit with a hammer), stay below the 7400 rpm that 1turbofocus advises, or find a sophisticated balancer like an ATI to absorb the vibrations. ATI make a Duratec/MB6 front crank pulley, but not a Zetec one. Never use a lightweight front pulley. The stock damper at least absorbs some of the vibrations. The billet pumps some people have were from a batch done a number of years ago. Quicksilver and CMF did them. Maybe 1turbofocus had a part in it too. I don't think anyone has any of those left new. A fellow racer mentioned this company started selling a modified complete pump with billet gears. http://www.boundarypumps.com/ford-zetec/ford-zetec-s1 We ordered one and will see how it works. As far as the knock sensor, I use one on the dyno, but don't have it connected to the ECU to make corrections My situation is different however in racing. I do log A/F, rpm and knock to the Traqmate, as we as where knock might have happend on the track. I use a phormula KS-4 which is a standalone knock sensor. Some ECUs can take a feedback signal from it. In a street car I would recommend that, as a 1turbofocus would recommend I think, the stock ECU which has all that built in.

Sold thanks for all the interest

PM sent

I need to clear up some garage space. Caterham "7 America RE" Zetec Race One of the last cars built to race in the Caterham US spec series. Raced there and in SCCA for Several years, then in a NASA based series in SLC. It's been sitting in my garage as a spare since 2012. I intended to build it back into a complete car but other projects got in the way. It does have the original MSO and a Texas title, although it was probably not driven on the street. I am selling as a basic chassis with the following items: Stack 8100 Dash with wheel sensor Revision 5 DeDion tube Wide track front suspension with standard hubs and spindles Factory adjustable coilovers Quick ratio steering rack and wheel Hood, scuttle and tank cover (no fuel cell or tank) Perflex windscreen Caterham racing seat. I can supply for additional cost the following....and many other items Differential (Ratios 3:38, 3:62, 3:92, or 4:11) (Limited slip AP, Lockheed, Titan) Dave Bean spindles Updated front hubs and spindles Transmissions Many engine parts Cycle, race, or classic fenders Wheels, etc This makes sense for especially someone who wants to start small, or wants to build to a particular spec with updated components. PM me for additional information and pictures $8500 as listed for the chassis. I will sell additional parts for reasonable prices. Located in DFW.

The brake calipers have the handbrake mechanism so I think they have to be from the rear of a standard Sierra. They are a single piston caliper, and will need something to screw the piston back in to insert new pads. The little tool that comes with most angle grinders works fine.

Front brakes are Spitfire and pads are easy to find. Rears should be Ford Sierra. Carbotech can make you up a nice street or street/track compound for both.

PM me I have blocks and cranks including some brand new.

The main reason for the billet gears is that the stock gears are made of powdered metal and can shatter. The oil pump on a Zetec (wet sump) is around the nose of the crankshaft and subjected to second order vibrations from the four cylinder. This is especially a problem if a the crank balancer (pulley) is replaced with a lightweight aluminum pulley. The front pulley on a Zetec a fairly crude harmonic balancer, but it does absorb some of the vibration that might transfer to the oil pump gears and cause a catastrophic failure. Interestingly enough...NA and NB Miatas can suffer the same problem....if the engines are run in the upper 7000 rpm range and up and the pulley is replaced. The comment about the oil pressure relief valve bears attention also. As with a lot of engines, it is a steel piston running up and down in an aluminum housing (part of the oil pump in a Zetec). The the piston sticks halfway, it can cause oil pressure to be higher than normal with cold because it doesn't release excess pressure, and lower when hot because it acts like an internal oil leak. It doesn't take much trash or gaulliing of the aluminum to cause the piston not to move up and down as it should.

Hey if you watch this.....go past the first lap. He's just warming up the tires. This is pretty quick, especially considering the number of telephone poles and the real possibility of winding up on someone's porch. Hitting the porta john right on the edge of the course in front of the Walgreens could be special also. He has my respect. No cage, no Hans, probably no fire system, just a lot of fortitude.

No reason not to use a modern, US supported ECU like the Megasquit. I use a Haltech Sprint 500 which is a little more expensive, but when I set this up 6 or 7 years ago Megasquirt had a reputation for not working well with EDIS. That has all changed. In either case you will need to build a custom harness, but these units can be made to work with the stock sensors. I use the Haltech with the stock (or stock type MSD) coil packs which require the Haltech igniter.

I don't have 4 silver wheels that are in perfect condition anymore. I do have some black ones that are pretty good. I will sell the silver ones for $85 each and you should be able to have them refinished for about $90 or so each.

I don't have the plastic spark plug wire covers, should have the other parts. I'll check and e-mail you. I believe the pulley cover you want has a bulge for the VCT pulley on the intake side, which covers the front and top of the pulleys.