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yellowss7

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Everything posted by yellowss7

  1. Yeah, the 7 was meant to be YELLOW. IMHO http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom
  2. M12 is the size of the stud,1.5 is the thread pitch. Don't know what a Knurl diameter is. yellowss72007-04-18 08:58:53
  3. I don't know about a 94, but on a 2001 with the dedion rear, M12 x 1.5 by 40mm long is what the boys on BlatChat confirm. Tom
  4. Yeah, Street Legal! I bet every cop you pass pulls you over. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/lol.gif An I'm sure that anyone driving behind you will get a windshield full of stones. Would be great on a track though. Real engineering to keep you safe when you smack the wall. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/cryin.gif Tom
  5. The Clams, attach to the wing stay at the side repeater and then bolts into the rivenuts in the side panel. I remember drilling into the wing to mount the repeaters and the wing stay. Measure twice drill once. If you need any photos, Just ask. Tom
  6. $1500 http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/cuss.gif To replace my K series I figure around $16K plus shipping and customs. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/cryin.gif Bike engines are an incredible bargain!!! Rev that little bugger.. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom
  7. Nice race lines! I don't think I have the cahones to do that in traffic. What type of wear and tear on the engine do you anticipate from running at near max rpms for 20 minutes at a time? Tom
  8. Here's a short video clip of my first bullet cam test. Next time I'll wind it out. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom
  9. Andrew7 posted " Towing isn't to be taken lightly" You got that right! I totaled my wife's Durango towing my 7 in an 18 ft enclosed Pace trailer. The trailer started swaying, then it got really bad and caused me to bounce off the left guardrail (from the right lane) and then back to end up on and almost over the right guardrail. Trailer jacknifed. Force was so great it straightend out the metal tie down strap hooks. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/eek6.gif 7 slid forward about 2 feet, with only a slight ding to the left rear wing when it hit the inside fender well of the trailer. This all happend on the NE extention of the PA Turnpike and I was only doing 55 when it started. Someone told me I should have squeezed the trailer brake controller and accelarated. Yeah, that's not as easy as it sounds. Wife won't let me tow anymore. Stay safe Tomyellowss72007-03-31 11:57:18
  10. Yeah, a head on crash and the front hood isn't even dented. That's a carbon fiber body too isn't it? What do you think... 200k to repair?
  11. Boy does that fat pig of car understeer or what! Mazda, I told you you can have too much power in an autox. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Tom
  12. Al, a few years ago I went over to England and went to the Stoneliegh kit car show which is well represented by the Lotus 7 club of GB. There were over 230 Caterhams in attendance and NO TWO are alike!!! From color, wheels, motors, dash layout, you name it. I could not find two alike. And that was just the Caterham area. Each Marque had its own separate area. Westies, Dax, Tiger,Robin Hoods, Locosts, and a few I've never heard of. And that was just the LSIS's. Cobras, Jag replicas, and tonnes of others. It's a great show if you ever get the chance to attend. Usually, the first weekend in May. Tom
  13. Sorry Ed. I miss read the request. They Y you're looking for is the height from the botttom edge of the scuttle to the middle of the bolt hole. That would be 32mm. X1 is still 47mm. from the forward edge of the scuttle indent to the middle of the first bolt. Hope that is what you're after.
  14. Then I the figures I gave are what you want. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/wink5.gif Tom
  15. Ed, If you're looking for the distance from the front of the scuttle to the center of the first bolt on the windscreen stanchion, and then the distance between the two bolts, on my standard sized Catherham X1 is 47mm and Y is 140mm. Tom
  16. Thanks Jeff. I ran the mic across the top of the trans. up under the dash just ahead of the shifter, so i don't think wind was the problem, it just has really low volume, and poor quality. It came with the bullet cam and is part of the wires that connect to the bullet cam. Even in the house the volume is really low even with the video camcoarder volume up. I have seen video's with horrible wind noise so I know what you mean. Off to Radio shack. Tom
  17. Fired up the Beast for the first time since Mid November and took it out for a nice Blat. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gifhttp://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/biggrin5.gif Thought for a moment that Al had jinxed me, it cranked over for about 10 seconds without firing up. Fired up on the next turn of the key. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/hurray.gif Tried out the next Bullet Cam set up. Camera works great. But I'm not at all happy with the Sound quality. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gif Anyone have a mic recommendation. I'm using the one that came with the bullet cam system. But its not loud and sounds really tinny. Not even close to R1's example. Should I just get one that plugs into the Camcorder?? Tom
  18. Al, I don't have a zetec, but I do have the Jenvey Throttle bodies and I find that to start mine up, I do the same with the fuel pump, wait until it stops, then when I turn the key I lighly feather the gas pedal to help it fire up. Has worked well for the past 7 years and I'm still on the orignial banner battery, and with a 12.4:1 compression ratio that's saying something! (I plan to get it out on Thursday or Friday as the weather forcast looks promising. I hope the 2 foot drift in front of my garage bay melts by then) Tom
  19. Thanks for the Pics Al. I just hate drilling holes in my car.
  20. Al, if you get a chance, could you post a photo of where the doors attach to the car? I bought a set of the same doors, but never put them one. Thanks Tom
  21. Engine choice is wide open as long as it fits. You can bring engines into the US as Auto parts. Customs and the EPA are ok with it. However, you may be subject to your local state inspection regs. Tom
  22. Thanks Bart. That's easy enough to test. I got that pressure from Michael Dougherty, he's using the same. I'll switch the springs once it warms up a bit. Anyone have experience with an adjustable front and or rear anti sway bar? I know Freestyle in the UK sells them. Thanks guys for all your suggestions, it gives me somethings to check at the next test and tune. Come on Spring. Tomyellowss72007-02-20 17:12:36
  23. Birkin42, stock springs are 170 front 150 progressive rear. Yes currently stock. Front and rear swaybars are stock. Car handles great other than the roll. I could lower the ride height but since I'm only running 75mm clearance under the sump, I'm hesitant to go too low, since I do drive it on the street too. Tom yellowss72007-02-20 06:01:25
  24. The original tires were Avon CR500's on 13 inch wheels. They are Radial design. The Slicks are 13 inch Bias design, that I run at 12-12.5 PSI. I seem to recall that the overall diameter stayed pretty much the same. Never had the problem with the AVONS, and the tail pipe was always oriented that way. The swaybars are the stock superlight set up. Green bushed 18mm up front and I believe 1/2 in the back on the front most setting.yellowss72007-02-20 05:16:09
  25. I'm currently running stock Caterham springs and shocks with a wide track front end. After having George Alderman at Midlantic Caterham cornerweight it and adjust the toe and camber, the car handled really well, i.e. no understeer, and just a tad of power on oversteer. However, on Slicks, I find that the car does have a significant roll to it on hard turns. So much so that the side exhaust pipe actually scrapes the ground on hard right handers. http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/images/emoticons/ack2.gif (See attached photo) I bought a set of 250 lb front springs to try out, but I know that if I stiffen the front up I will probably get more understeer. I could go to a smaller front anti roll bar but it's the roll I'm trying to limit. Any suggestions? Tom http://www.usa7s.com/forum/uploads/20070219_165859_Copy_of_philly_.jpgyellowss72007-02-20 05:50:09
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