mrmustang

As stated above, classic scam Do not fall for it, simply walk away and do not converse with the scammer further. Bill S.

Was looking at the pics on my phone, sure looked like a crack, but seeing the larger picture on my laptop this AM, it does appear to be a welded tubing. Thanks for the extra set of eyes. As far as price goes, at 15K, without knowing whether the car comes with the convertible top or not, the seller should take the money and run. Bill S.

I've seen scratches like found on the hood before on a friends Cobra replica where he went under a chain-link fence (not intentionally). Looking at the pictures, what scares me the most, is the right front lower control arm, it appears to be cracked (see attached) . Or am I seeing something that only appears to be a crack? Bill S.

Coming along nicely, you'll be on the road before you know it. Bill S.

That would be the one

Skip, I only posted what is currently in the garage, between the two of us, I do not think there is enough bandwidth in the database for what we have both owned. Try to keep this one away from the port-a-johns Bill S.

The final for today is our 1970 Shelby GT 350 convertible, this was a car I've been chasing for many years, restored back in 1992, then sold to the last owner in 1994 and placed on a 4 post lift in his warehouse and left to it's own devices. Finally talked the owner in to selling it last year, with a deposit given in March 2021 and the car finally delivered to me in October of that year. The next 3 months were spent getting the car back on the road. Started by draining the 8 gallons of turpentine (IE: stale gas from 1992) from the tank, then have a shop go through all of the drivetrain and wiring (IE: rats nest of splices, shorts, and melted wiring), after that I spent an additional 3 months to go through the rest of the car to get it safe enough for a potential cross country trip. Have only put 155 miles on it so far this year, not as much as I would have liked, but given it's concourse detailed undercarriage, I've been hesitant to drive it on anything but the nicest of days, when we have had the free time to do so.

Long term, 8+ years of ownership is SWMBO summer toy, a 2006 Miata GT, 6spd, factory Bilstein car, now powered by a 2.5L Ford Duratec Motor when the stock 2.0L Mazda engine let loose in 2013. It too has been meticulously maintained, thought about adding a Harddog rollbar to it and taking it out for some HPDE events, but decided with the other two above, it was not necessary. Sadly, SWMBO didn't drive it at all this year, I felt bad, and added 200 miles of use just so it would not be jealous of the other 3 cars stuffed into our two car (no lift) garage.

Next car to kind of drop in my lap was our 52,000 mile 2001 Porsche "S", originally a track prepped (lots of suspension and brake goodies, 6K worth of receipts for them, all other mechanicals stock and up to date on all maintenance, including RMS and IMS) car for the last two owners, again, not really looking, but kind of found me when a friend pointed it out and asked me to go look at it for him. On my 2 hour drive down to the burbs of Atlanta, my friend called and stated he bought a neighbors car last night, since I was within 10 minutes of the car, I decided not to cancel and ended up bringing it home for under 17K, with an additional 3K in parts which have now been sold off to offset the 2K in parts and services I needed to bring it up to spec. Have only put 150 miles on it so far in the last three weeks, but it will make a fun driver for SWMBO and I. Attached picture is the required first early evening drive out on "date night", where to, for ice cream of course. SWMBO found the heated seat button on the center console and states "she approves".

Oh where to start Only one car per post, well, I guess we will start with the ERA 289 FIA, a car that kind of fell in my lap at 10pm 3 days before the 2nd owner was moving back to Arizona and made me an offer even my wife stated "you would be stupid not to buy it for that". Since SWMBO states a Cobra is much easier to get in and out of then the last 7 (I need a SV next time) we had. Built as a turn key by ERA, every option that was available on the order form was checked off. Small block 351 stroked to 396ci, 9:5:1 compression, 394hp/401ft/lbs torque at the rear wheels. Car weighs in at 2387lbs with half a tank of gas. The first owner put 20,000 miles on the car in the 16 years he owned it, 2nd owner put 300 or so miles on it in the 3.5 years he owned it. I've put roughly 800 miles on it this year, after spending a few months tearing into it to make it track/street safe. Been a fun car so far this year.

I believe that might have been the car I had seen, sorry to hear about Andy's passing, it has been quite some time since I've seen most of that group outside Atlanta. I am surprised I did not know about it from one of the CAT group down in that area. Hope you enjoy it. Bill S.

Congratulations on the new toy. I see the Georgia plates, I know of one in that color combination in the Georgia CAT group, but did not know it was for sale, out of curiosity, where did you find it and what part of Georgia did it come out of? Bill S.

If you live off Pelham RD in the greater Greenville, SC area, I've seen you driving it

Meanwhile, inside the crate:

Congratulations on the kit arrival, look forward to watching your build thread. Bill S. PS: Need an extra hand or two, let me know, as I have "just a little" experience with the Caterhams

Yes, Ford Fiesta here in the US. Parts are readily available

I just pulled an ATX-30HD out of my 289 cobra roadster, replacing it with a larger Yellow top Optima. The lithium batteries are extremely sensitive to voltage coming from your charging system. Mine was right at the 13.8-14V, and I may have fried it, as even after I hit the reset button (built in secondary charge instead of jump starting), I got no voltage to even the clock in the dash. Checked all connections, zip, nothing. Cannot charge it, as lithium batteries take a specific type of charger, made just for them. So, just beware, if you spend the money on the Lithium battery, make sure you spend the extra couple of hundred dollars for the accessories. Bill S.

Perfect, it should all go quite smoothly from here. Bill

Breeze offers quite a bit to the FFR related community. I've built and rebuilt more than my fair share of them. Kool Mat works well, I just don't need the sound deadening properties on the inside of my 7's or my Cobras. If anything, I've used a coat of truck bedliner under the cars and in the wheelwells to deal with road debris type noises. Works far better there, then on the inside of the car. Bill S.

I prefer to do the entire cockpit with Design Engineering 010412 Reflect-A-Cool Heat Reflective Adhesive Backed Sheets, 36" x 48". Ultra thin, will not affect carpet install. I've done both my 7's, and my Cobra replicas with them. As far as sound deadener, I really don't bother with anything heavy like that, as the sound is outgoing, not incoming in both sets of cars. Finally, don't overthink it, keep it simple, and you'll be headed down the road before you know it. Bill

So it's been 6 weeks and not 12 weeks so far, what else do you expect? Did you follow the procedure as listed above? Did you fill out the paperwork correctly? Did they send it back to you? You have to give us all of the details, or we cannot assist you properly. Bill

If you have a MCO/MSO, the VIN is on there from the manufacturer. Is your car already titled in another state? Do you have the MSO/MCO and a simple bill of sale from the dealership you purchased the car from? If so, SC makes it much simpler than just about any other state. You just need to follow the process as it is laid out. Now, with that said, as I stated in a PM to you, perhaps your paperwork was lost in the mail, or perhaps you did not fill out the paperwork properly. Reviewing the state website and forms, the only one needed at this time is 400 and your MCO/MSO. The state will recognize the Caterham VIN format, as it is already in their system with other cars such as my last two. Heck, even the factory Birkin format is is accepted at face value, as that too is already in their database. Again, not trying to be hard on you, just try and figure out where the disconnect is in your case. Bill

To Title Form-400 MCO from DF 15$ (check state website, this may have recently gone up) for new title Receipts for the kit (Some form of receipt, IE DF's invoice(s) and receipts from donor purchase are all I provided) Picture of the Serial# stamped in the frame & of the kit itself (May not be necessary?) Mailed via USPS Express Mail to SC main office SC DMV-Attn New Title Division-10311 Wilson Blvd C, Blythewood, SC 29016 This is required as the kit has an MCO and you need a title to register it. Do not go to the DMV office before you receive an SC title. To Register: Paid property tax receipt Title Roughly $40 for registration/tag

I had it out this AM for a run to the post office . Bill

My 40th anniversary 7 now living in Florida, replaced with a 289 Roadster replica after Rick (Time Machine out of Buffalo, NY) made me an offer I could not refuse. There may still be a SV in my future, but not right now. Bill