Zetec 2.0

[Brightonuk]

Wrecked mine dropped a main bearing and I am sure a rod in in the cylinder from the noise it is making now, so any suggestions on where to source a new/used one

I would prefer another built unit

Any pointers on who rebuilds/Sells Zetec race engines?

[yellowss7]

I think Quicksilver racing in Maryland did Michael D's zetec, and I believe Turbo Tom is currently rebuilding Kitcat's.

[Croc]

Quicksilver in MD has been the long time preference around the east coast for rebuilding Zetecs

http://quicksilverraceengines.com/

[Brightonuk]

Thanks Croc Reached out to them

 

Yellow7 Who is Turbo Tom?

 

An excuse my ignorance regarding this but:

I have been advised that switching to a 1.6 ecoboost (that will drop in) is the way to go rather than building another Zetec.

More power even if stock than a replacement Ford Racing Zetec and a hell of a lot cheaper.

And if I am down on power something I can build over time with HP parts.

I guess I could get a short block Zetec an reuse my heads?

 

Its all about cost now, the Cat is beginning to take a toll on my cashflow, with the $$ I have spent getting her roadworthy and looking pretty I could have imported a new one and still had change for coffee.

 

In addition I am totally confused on what way to go, my Zetec is going to be toast I am sure the noise from the engine was a dropped valve and the drive home after the fact sealed its fate.

Would that damage the head as well?

 

I will pull the plugs and look to see if there is damage to a piston but that noise was not something that was minor.

 

That said I will talk to Quicksilver and see what they suggest

 

Thanks Again for the help

[BlueBDA]

I believe the Ecoboost is a turbo engine, so if you autocross that would put you in a different class.

[Croc]

As someone who has seen a lot of engine rebuilds in the last few years eg BMW CSL Group 4 race engine, Group A Holden, v12 Ferrari (shudders).....just think of the character building you are about to get! [emoji15]

 

I genuinely know the pain you are going through - more than most.

 

If you dropped a valve then figure your piston looks like the one below - in my example there were 6 others.... [emoji22]. It was an epic drive on track before that though! [emoji16]

 

Pull the engine out, get it to a reputable expert to diagnose and work out next steps for a high end rebuild. Quicksilver have a streetable 220hp zetec strong build that a few forum members have bought.

 

Or buy a $800-1000 engine out of a car being salvaged and drop it in as a temporary measure.

 

Don’t try a cheap high hp build - it never works.

 

 

 

 

 

[Brightonuk]

Yep Quicksilver seems to be the way to go a 1.6 eco is just too much work and as I am not doing it $$$$$$ for the labour

QS quoted $3k just to strip and he had a ballpark of $6-8K to repair it.... this is going to be a really hard sell to the wife even if I hide 50% of the cost

I am not looking forward to that conversation

 

Anyone with one of those 220 HP Quicksilver engines?

If so Please reach out to me

[Croc]

Sad thing is that I did not blink at that price. My BMW installation is many multiples...

 

MichaelD had the 220hp Zetec Formula Atlantic streetable spec build done in 2015 but later sold his car to CarlB - both are on this forum.

 

Jcerier (on this thread) is running a BDR build by Quicksilver, that was originally done in 2015 by Sabbot

 

I think FE07 was contemplating work there at some point but don't know where that ended up.

 

You could probably search for others under the key word "Quicksilver"

[Kitcat]

When I contacted Quick Silver a few months ago they said the guy that built MichaelD's 220 hp Zetec was no longer there and that they were doing basically stock rebuilds.

 

Brightonuk: I know what you mean about the (seemingly endless) cost. I try to think of it as a form of mental health therapy. And, in reality, if I had the money back I'd probably just waste it on something more expensive to maintain:).

[FE07]

I'll chime in- I had some engine issues with my Zetec we just couldn't quite figure out until I called George Alderman and he knew right away what the issue was. So my engine work was done by him. New head gasket, head, cams, timing gear etc... Not really more power but more top end. Quicksilver does very nice work and I know the guys there from racing Vees. Great work- reputation for great expense.

 

In regards to all the cost's with our crazy obsession- I guess as long as you're not making yourself broke or screwing up your retirement and you get enjoyment out of your 7 or race car- it's worthwhile. I get a little sick if I go back and look at all the receipts/costs but then I go in the garage and see my toys (even if I can't get em out on street or track yet cause of this freaking weather and the race car frame has been at a shop for the past 2 months and -and -and) it's all good!

 

Coincidentally or perhaps ironically I'm typing this while I'm wearing a shirt I bought from Blipshift that has 3 words on it in the shape of a triangle: race-regret-repair. Been around that triangle more than a couple times but wouldn't give it up. Something special about car people. Doesn't matter if it's sports cars, race cars, muscle cars, old stuff- it's all interesting and there's always something to learn and see and bond over.

 

Oh- and if you can- not a bad idea to NOT have those conversations with the wife!

 

Jim

[Certified Lotus]

Just jumping in on Quicksilver. I have had two Twin Cam engines built by Quicksilver and can confirm they do excellent work. The engines perform as designed to my spec (I have them Dyno after the build while I am there) and don’t leak a drop of oil. They aren’t cheap, but they are the best. The machine shop alone is worth the drive to see.

[Brightonuk]

Thank you

Funny enough just finished writing a PM to Kitkat regarding how much am I spending and trying to justify it

 

If I look at the cost it is not so much the amount of $$$ I have spent just in hindsight how they could of been better spent.

I think with the cost of the car the two resprays (That's another story) the mechanical issues the electrical issue and now a possable $8k bill for a engine rebuild all that cash could of bought me a new car!

[Brightonuk]

Again you have to excuse my ignorance but I looked down the throttle bodies and all four valves are visible and seated

Good News?

Does this mean that the banging is not something in the bore?

[JohnCh]

Don't forget, in addition to the 8 intake valves, you have 8 exhaust valves. If those are visible from the intake, then you have a serious problem :jester:

 

Have you removed the sparkplugs yet to look for damage? If something is banging around the combustion chamber, it can visibly damage the plug. Shining a flashlight down the sparkplug port "could" also reveal a piece of metal on top of the piston, but I'd spend $40 and buy a borescope that you can put down that opening and give it a good once over. Nothing may have broken off, but you could have bent a valve. I have this one that works well and would do the job.

 

-John

[Brightonuk]

as I said excuse my ignorance

Thanks off to Harbor Freight

[JohnCh]

Sorry, being a sarcastic a-hole just comes naturally to me

Pull the plugs (keep them in order so you know which plug came from each cylinder) and look for a bent electrode, flecks of metal, chipped/cracked insulator, oil soaked, or discolored compared to the rest. Post photos if anything looks suspect.

 

-John

[Croc]

Sorry, being a sarcastic a-hole just comes naturally to me

 

Brightonuk: Don't worry about John - he's afflicted living 3 hours behind the civilized world plus its just that time of the month when one of his cars has gone belly up in the garage and oozed some noxious fluid all over his mirror polished white garage floor.

 

John: Was it the Porker or the Lotus this time?

 

 

 

The Harbor Fright borescope option is a good idea - detected 6 holes in pistons for me so far. However, a fundamental truth exists - if it sounds like a bucket of bolts or a mother-in-law then its f*&%ed and you need carefully consider tear down and rebuild options. Running it while it sounds like this is likely just doing more internal damage - so dont until you can confirm what has gone wrong.

 

Given you are worried about the wife...errr....cost then I would seriously consider buying a cheap used crate engine from a reliable source, shipping it to you and just swapping that in. It gets you back up running quicker and longer term you can decide to later have the broken engine rebuilt using the quicksilver or other reputable local solution with a lot more power, or even sell off the broken engine as spares. Allows you the phase in costs over time and tiptoe past the better half. Just make sure you are swapping like for like engine. The advantage of this is you may be able to plug and play without having to buy a new ECU or needing to remap - saves a bit a money there. Find out what ECU you have now - as it will inform your search process.

 

Its not clear from your posts what exact version of Zetec you have (your engine number will help you identify it) but if it is the regular cooking model then some used engine options are on this link:

https://automotix.net/usedengines/2002-ford-focus-inventory.html

 

If it is the SVT then here

https://www.jegs.com/i/ATK-Engines/059/DFDP/10002/-1

 

JEGS also has remanufactured crate engines for other types of Zetec.

 

I did not check but Summit probably has the crate engine option too plus there may be other sellers out there.

[Brightonuk]

Im a britt so we get a "dry sense of humor" and I will take sarcasame if the guy giving it knows more than me so that goes for 95% of people on this forum.

 

The block is a Ford Racing this is the only number I see

 

 

Just found this any thoughts as this option is 50% less than a rebuild and seems like a no brainer

Out of the choices of engine they offer which one?

 

https://focus-power.com/product/zetec-engine/

 

 

 

http://www.usa7s.net/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=15113&stc=1

Edited March 10, 2019 by Brightonuk

[Kitcat]

You will also need to determine why the engine went kaput. Typically, it is oil starvation issues caused by GG-forces generated by sticky tires and pushing the limit, over and over, on the track. Cheapest solution is an Accusump set up, then dry-sump, which is double the cost of the Accusump.

[Croc]

I will take sarcasm if the guy giving it knows more than me

 

 

not in this case - he drives Porshes...porschi...porkers...those things!

 

 

 

 

 

So it was a Ford Racing crate engine to begin with. That helps. Makes a plug and play solution easier.

 

The link you provided is for a short block - so no sump and no head. Not necessarily bad but it explains why it is cheap. We don't know if you have head damage (the engine...not you) although you will probably be able to reuse the old sump without concern albeit it you may want to upgrade if oil surge was the cause of your issue.

 

As Mike notes above you will need to determine why it failed so it does not go boom again. Did it happen on road? (bad luck) Do you autocross? (oil starvation) Are you a track day fan? (oil starvation) Did you over-rev it? (oil pump/valve train) Do you let the wife drive it? (clutch)

 

If you think you like the crate engine approach then will you be pulling the old engine and swapping out or getting a mechanic to do it? You want an old-school mechanic. Race guys have smarts on dealing with out of the ordinary types of installations. The crack head monkeys at dealership service departments cannot take a piss without an OBDII reader.

 

 

Edited to add - there is a long block description there but my failing eyesight failed to see it when reading the page! duh! I would see if I could resurrect the existing head before buying a long block. Looks a good solution otherwise.

Edited March 10, 2019 by Croc