2.0L Duratec Rebuild

[ashyers]

John,

I'm not sure if you're running the rubber coolant tube caps on the car, but if you plan to I'd suggest you don't. The dreaded ones from the "help" section of the parts store are made with rubber that is is very short lived.

 

Andy

[JohnCh]

I am and I treat them as replacement items. If there is something longer lived that can dead end those unused connections when using a water rail, I'd love a pointer. One is 5/8" and the other is 3/4".

 

Thanks,

John

[JohnCh]

Andy, I just answered my own question, but thanks for prompting me to look. HPS makes a silicone heater bypass cap that should last significantly longer. I'll do a little more digging, but I will probably order those tonight.

 

Thanks,

John

[ashyers]

John,

Sounds like a good plan since it doesn't look like a freeze plug would be too easy to install and tapping for a threaded plug looks like a bear too. I've had one to many run ins with those other plugs! You're getting close to done!

 

Andy

[JohnCh]

I toyed with drilling & threading then plugging the port for the elbow after it returned from the machine shop, but didn't want to risk metal shavings getting where they shouldn't. Although not as elegant (nor as light) the silicone caps will work. They are ordered and should be here by the end of next week.

 

Provided the dial indicator holder shows up tomorrow and no other issues arise, I should have the engine buttoned up this weekend.

 

-John

[JohnCh]

The Noga articulated holder for the dial indicator arrived today It's beautifully made and incredibly easy to adjust: turn one knob and all the joints loosen allowing for very easy setup. Just one problem: the magnetic base is broken. The knob won't turn. I've verified there are no special tricks like pushing in or pulling out the switch and even found an online video review that showed the switch flips very easily, but I can't get it to budge by hand. Using a wrench for leverage might be enough to break it free...or just break it. Looks like this is going back for replacement

 

-John

[JohnCh]

After posting the above, I contacted Amazon, explained the switch was stuck and would not turn with hand pressure and asked for my options given my desire to have a replacement quickly. I had suggested cross shipping and offered to pay for the new one now and they could wait to credit my account until they received the return, but was told it wasn't an option because the item was unreturnable. However, I then learned that Amazon's definition of unreturnable in this situation is different than mine. They mean they will send me a refund via gift of Visa card, but they don't want the item back. This seemed a little too good to be true, and somewhat illogical for an $80 part that was likely repairable. But no, the agent was very clear and even sent an email stating the item was mine to do with as I pleased. Apparently the cost to ship, receive, and deal with any kind of warranty or restocking kills the margins more than simply giving it to me gratis and taking the write-off.

 

The replacement was immediately ordered and the gift card arrived about an hour later. Given I now own the Noga, I decided to force the issue with a set of large Channel Locks and a sacrificial bit of rubber to protect the switch from cosmetic damage. If it broke, it broke. Cranking really hard, and just reaching the stage where I was thinking of giving up, there was a loud "crack!" and the switch broke free. It now rotates as expected, but is occasionally sticky at the end of its travel, so not perfect. But certainly good enough.

 

Setting the timing still took a while, but the process was significantly easier with the new equipment and very repeatable. If anyone goes through this process, I can recommend this set up:

 

Mitutoyo"2416S" Dial Indicator

Noga DG61003 Regular Duty Dial Gage Holder

Anytime Tools Dial Indicator Extension Stem Rod Set

 

 

Once TDC and cam timing were confirmed, reconfirmed, and reconfirmed again, cam bolts were torqued, which was followed by a final round of confirmation just to be safe. Next, the front main seal was replaced, and final prep and test fit was completed for the front cover. Only potential snag is that the top of the front cover is no longer flush with the top of the head due to the clean up of the head and block. It's only a 10/1000" difference which I'm hoping the valve cover seal can accommodate. If not, I'll probably just need to apply a little sealant at the step between the two surfaces.

 

-John

[panamericano]

AND you are going to have a new, perfect one arriving from Amazon soon. But you keep one that is serviceable. Not a bad deal. I had a friend with a small business "big computer" from Dell and the same thing happened. Some problem. Dell shipped a new one and didn't want the iffy one back. It still works. $4000 computer twofer. The world of e commerce can be weird.

 

Don't worry. Be happy.

[JohnCh]

panamerico, I am happy about that and am saving my worrying for something that needs it. I'm sure that something will be along soon

 

 

Today I installed the front cover, crank sensor (the alignment tool is still in place in the photo below), water pump pulley, idler pulley, valve cover, torqued the crank pulley bolt, and temporarily installed the alternator, driver's side engine mount, DTHTBs, dipstick, and still-to-be-gapped sparkplugs. With tape on the injector & exhaust ports, and the oil filter take off, the engine is sealed from debris, and no longer requires a cover. And most importantly, it looks like an engine again!

 

 

 

 

One reason for temporarily installing the above parts was to figure out which items I forgot to order and what fixes I missed. First, I can't find the gasket for the Raceline oil filter adapter. I saw a note to ask Peter about it before placing my original order, but didn't write down his response. It's not on the manifest from them, and oddly I can't find the old one (I intentionally didn't throw things away). Hopefully it's a Ford gasket, or I can find the old one. I have a feeling he may have said to reuse it or use sealant which is why it wasn't ordered.

 

I am also missing one of the bolts for an engine mount. Not a big deal, but kind of strange -- it's not in the bag marked "engine mount bolts" or on the tray with the mounts themselves. When previously test fitting the custom dipstick, clearance to the engine mount was feeler gauge tight. What I didn't realize until the alternator mount was in place today is that it is also slightly touching that part. Again, not a big deal and something a die grinder will correct. I also need to fabricate the upper mount for the dipstick now that the DTHTBs are in place.

 

At this point I'm planning a staycation the week prior to the 4th of July, and targeting that week for the first drive. Fingers, and other body parts, crossed.

 

-John

[SENC]

Looks great John! Frustrating when 1 bolt that should be there is not, I sure know that feeling!!!!

[Pokey]

That intake and your custom headers really make a conversation piece!

[JohnCh]

Henry, it's frustrating, but it should be an easy bolt to source at the local hardware store.

 

Thanks Greg, but I'm hoping it's the full throttle experience that will be the conversation piece

 

The gasket for the oil filter adapter is handled. It's a standard Ford part and should arrive in a few days. Of course, that is offset by the realization that I never obtained the O-ring size for the Jenveys (they seal the DTHTBs to the head). Although the current ones appear fine, they are older and could be on the way out. It seems prudent to pop in new ones, which is easier to do now then after the engine is installed. I'll call Jenvey in the morning to see if they'll provide me with the size, then I'll source them here.

 

I spent more time looking at the dipstick this afternoon. I'm beginning to think it might be worthwhile to have that engine mount modified to provide more room for the fitting and avoid headaches down the road. On the surface it seems as simple as cutting out a small section that's interfering and having some material welded back in to seal it off, but I want to ensure that I'm not compromising strength. I'll take some pictures later and ask for feedback.

 

-John

[ashyers]

John,

When I built my motor I ordered a ton of O-rings from from "The O-Ring Store" (oring@theoringstore.com). The O-rings I used for my early SBD/Jenveys, which appear identical to your ITB's, were P/N V75135; AS568-135 V75 FKM. The O-ring Store is even in your neck of the woods.

 

Andy

[JohnCh]

Thanks Andy, that helps. I tried Jenvey this morning but after some hemming and hawing was told I need to go to Raceline for that information. It almost sounded as if they weren't certain they didn't do something specific for Raceline's version back then. Next I tried Peter at Raceline but kept getting voicemail so sent an email. I'll check out that part number, take some measurements from my current ones and go from there.

 

-John

[JohnCh]

Peter just answered my email. The O-ring size is 47.6mm x 2.4mm. Assuming the first number is ID vs. OD, the O-rings you posted above will fit. Ordering them now.

 

Edited: when placing the order, I noticed they have a metric section. Turns out they have the exact size Peter specified, so went with those in a couple of different compounds.

 

Thanks,

John

Edited June 15, 2020 by JohnCh
updated info

[JohnCh]

Here are some photos of the engine mount and the area I'm thinking of cutting away (noted by the black sharpie), then having a local fabricator patch up with steel stock of the same thickness. Any feedback on this approach? It seems to me that the strength wouldn't be unduly compromised, but that area is on the bottom, and my structural expertise is limited to what I've seen on Motor Trend TV. Is there any risk that the heat from the process could slightly warp the mount? Again, it doesn't seem to me like it would based on size and location, but anything that leads to misalignment with existing mounting points would be bad.

 

 

 

 

Thanks,

John

[JohnCh]

I've been having trouble getting in touch with the welder I've previously used, so revisited dipstick placement last night. With a little grinding of material from the alternator mount and re-clocking the fitting at the base of the dipstick where it screws into the sump, I have "just" enough clearance to make this work as-is. With everything torqued, the very top of the fitting and the bottom of the engine mount touch (barely), but there isn't any pressure exerted onto the fitting. I think I'll stick with this for now and see how it works in practice. Next step is to fabricate the mount that holds the top of the dipstick tube in place. I haven't done that kind of work in a while and am looking forward to it. If it turns out ok, I'll post a photo. If not, I'll simply mention it in passing

 

The gasket for the oil filter adapter arrived yesterday, so that's now fitted, and the O-rings for the DTHTBs also arrived and will be test fit tonight.

 

-John

[JohnCh]

My original intent for the oil dipstick's upper mount was to use aluminum sheet and perform a little origami magic to add strength. Unfortunately I didn't have any on hand and was too lazy to make the trek to Home Depot or Lowes, so repurposed an old bracket made years ago from a piece of 1/8" aluminum stock. It's a little dinged up, but after some sanding it's acceptable for a part not easily visible from above. The mount attaches to the engine via one of the thermostat housing bolts. Given that's a low torque fastener, a lock washer was added to (hopefully) counteract any potential loosening stemming from repeated oil level checks. Amazing how much time and effort has been invested to correct an issue resulting from a simple oversight when the engine mounts were fabricated years ago. Fingers crossed this version actually works and is drip free.

 

 

 

I finally settled on how to route the wires for the AEM X-series WBO2 sensor. As mentioned previously, they assume it's going into a car significantly larger than a se7en and install a very long wiring harness on the O2 sensor end. I'm reluctant to introduce a failure point by splicing those wires, so have opted to keep them in tact and route them around the front of the engine bay. They can always be shortened later should I determine that's a better approach.

 

-John

[papak]

I just went through this with my Innovate wideband sensor and controller. The shortest cable they offer is about 48". I had to send my controller and sensor back to them for testing and calibration verification. They couldn't shorten the cable for me. They said that since their proprietary technology produces such a fast response time, the inherent resistance in the cables and connectors is factored into the engineering solution. Whenever I shorten a cable, I use a Weatherpak connector. Yes, they are a bit bulky but the soldered connection is protected within the connector. I have never been able to measure ANY resistance in these connectors when properly assembled and I have never had one fail.

 

I'll have my car running this weekend. Once I verify the validity of the 02 signal, I plan on testing a sensor with a shortened cable. My O2 sensor (a proprietary Bosch unitThe longer cable, from the controller to the sensor cable connector, is the real problem. This I neatly coil, zip tie and position in the bottom of the electrical bay (I have a Birkin). If I can find the weird boxy connector that they use to fabricate the long cable, I may try to put together a shorter one and test it. That would lighten the car another 4 ounces.

Edited June 19, 2020 by papak

[papak]

 

I like your dipstick solution. What type of dipstick is it, blade or wire? I used a similar solution but due to a different motor mount style, I stabilized mine to the firewall next to the steering shaft.

Edited June 19, 2020 by papak