Pokey Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) I believe the Seven and grommet were developed synchronously. Followed almost immediately by the plug. Edited February 22, 2022 by Pokey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 I wish there was a thumbs up/ like/ LOL tag. Thanks again @Pokey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted February 22, 2022 Author Share Posted February 22, 2022 Expansion tank bracket does not exactly fit like a glove. Per Josh- either use 3 holes (“plenty” enough to hold) or drill another hole. Only thing that matters- drilling perpendicular and as close to the centerline of the frame tubes as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Mine was off but not quite that much. Rather than drill a new hole I just cheated all the holes a little bit from midline and it worked out. In your case I'd consider just drilling another hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sf4018 Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 I just used the 3 holes that lined up, don't need the 4th there's virtually no load on the plate, unless it's an OCD trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kitcat Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 I like: “OCD trigger”:)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IamScotticus Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 (edited) Fun build. Nice trans tunnel insulation! If it were my build, I wouldn't have installed the heater. Sevens are usually hot enough. I have my doubts that those jack stands are tall enough for the engine install??? I second the tip about waiting to install the radiator till after the engine is in place. Install a master battery cut off switch and crash/inertia fuel cut-off switch Edited February 23, 2022 by IamScotticus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 Okay, grinder, primer, rattle can…. drill new hole and done. added new life skill: riveting. This is the build thread affirming to everyone that anyone can (probably… not done yet) do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted March 27, 2022 Author Share Posted March 27, 2022 Been a long pause: big step- got motor in today (installed diff/drive shaft first). Managed to remember to get transmission mount in place before trying to install. So far, I have spent more time trouble shooting / finding hardware vs actually building. When I’m building, the progress is fast. Can’t possibly overstate how helpful Josh is at Rocky Mountain Caterham. I’m a little freaked out that bell housing doesn’t mate up to transmission cleanly… waiting for response from Josh…. Think there might be a piece that goes in front? Not full panic, yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 the black wedge is the bellhousing guard - that goes right where you're concerned 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted March 27, 2022 Author Share Posted March 27, 2022 13 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said: the black wedge is the bellhousing guard - that goes right where you're concerned Should I use some silicone, or otherwise try to seal it off from the elements? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 I did not, and I don't think you'd want to; you will want to remove it for oil changes - when you take off the cover for the finger filter, the oil will drain and get all in between the guard and the sump. Taking the guard off allows the oil to drain cleanly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted March 28, 2022 Author Share Posted March 28, 2022 (edited) Read that I was supposed to install exhaust headers- prior to- installing dry sump. So, happily I had only set that in place, needing to go find the proper hardware. So, I just fitted them up, barely held in place for now. Seems I should bend the headers a bit to the rear to get more clearance? (for those wondering, the sequence is 4, 3, 2, 1 from back of the engine working forward. There is only one way they will all fit / not labeled). Edited March 28, 2022 by sainthoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 something's not right there... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rosteri Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 Bending headers isn’t an option, it is just not possible with home equipment. I helped this weekend another 7 owner fit some old headers, that were not a pair - we had to cut and reweld. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share Posted March 30, 2022 (edited) Looking for ideas on the headers. I have the engine tightened down with the engine mounts and the transmission mount tight as well. The alignment looks good to me (drive shaft/transmission look evenly spaced/ aligned in tunnel). I consider shimming the left side engine mount, but that seems like an extreme/unwise solution. Here are a few more pics if someone spots a problem… 1 and 2 are pressing hard against 3 and 4 (so I feel like there is something off with 3 and 4?). Suggestions welcome. I feel like I need to sort this before doing anything else with plumbing, etc. Edited March 30, 2022 by sainthoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 Well, your primaries aren't fastened to the engine yet. I would start there? Or does fastening them make the alignment worse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 4 hours ago, KnifeySpoony said: Well, your primaries aren't fastened to the engine yet. I would start there? Or does fastening them make the alignment worse? Tightening would make it worse. As it is now the bolts toward the front are more loose (allowing some backward angulation). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 Hmmmm... I guess we could establish some dimensions. Maybe make sure the cutout in side skin is right location (although I'm not sure how a mistake like that could be made). It seems odd that all 4 primaries would be bent incorrectly about the same amount. I'd look to engine position and exhaust cutout. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sainthoo Posted May 2, 2022 Author Share Posted May 2, 2022 (edited) Had a day off today- so tackled the rear suspension, which is now done. As has become customary - spent as much time finding parts/ figuring out what to do as much as actually doing stuff. Getting handbrake cable onto the second caliper was a bit of a chore. ** for anyone reading/considering a build** roll bar must be installed BEFORE rear suspension (no way to install cage with spring/damper installed) After that, then rear suspension. Edited May 2, 2022 by sainthoo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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