spitfun Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 Came acrossed this-I wonder if it runs? https://www.copart.com/lot/81047494/1966-lotus-coupe-fl-punta-gorda-south Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vovchandr Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 2 minutes ago, spitfun said: Came acrossed this-I wonder if it runs? https://www.copart.com/lot/81047494/1966-lotus-coupe-fl-punta-gorda-south Description says runs and drives. If you're interested I'd say go for it. If a McLaren P1 can be rebuild after salt water a car as simple as a 7 certainly can be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfun Posted November 21 Author Share Posted November 21 That was my thoughts also... I don't think I am interested (but you never know) but maybe someone else on the forum may be... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MV8 Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 Parts only. "Certificate of Destruction". The vin cannot be rebuilt. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted November 21 Share Posted November 21 Can potentially be repurposed as a race or track car. FL Cert of Destruction does not require crushing like some states. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfun Posted November 25 Author Share Posted November 25 Was unaware of the inability to re-register. Seems odd,I could see it being in a major crash and too far gone for rebuild,but this one is only a flood vehicle. Too bad,looks to be a nice car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theDreamer Posted November 25 Share Posted November 25 How does one go about finding out the unknowns for a car like this one? It looks to be in great shape with no signs of water stains or damage from debris. I believe there are three types of flood waters, salt water, rain or overland water and sewage back up. If this car did get flooded I’d say it was rain or overland and not submerged. It is possible that it was on a lift and didn’t really get very wet at all. But, how does one know? It’s very low mileage if I’ve broken down the VIN correctly. SDK= Manufacturer code for Caterham L= Left hand drive L= Live axle K= Kit built A= Chassis type NS= Engine not supplied V= Model year 1997 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted November 25 Share Posted November 25 3 hours ago, theDreamer said: How does one go about finding out the unknowns for a car like this one? It looks to be in great shape with no signs of water stains or damage from debris. I believe there are three types of flood waters, salt water, rain or overland water and sewage back up. If this car did get flooded I’d say it was rain or overland and not submerged. It is possible that it was on a lift and didn’t really get very wet at all. But, how does one know? Ideally as we are a small community we would know this car. The last couple of times flooded cars have come up for salvage auction we usually can find out the back story through our little network at USA7s. Has not happened so far. Its not a car I have seen in a photo on this site before. So then....Pull a Carfax on the car and see where it was located. If you have nice friends in law enforcement or the insurance industry then they have access to other databases which help you identify/locate the car. But you really don't need to do that here - a little common sense helps - its a Florida car, there was a hurricane recently with a good sized storm ocean surge in a defined area, its flat topography in FL, so odds on its going to be sea water or brackish water of some kind and not fresh water. Insurers do not write cars off for rain unless it is of the frozen type - not happening here. Betting odds says it was flooded with salt water to earn the write off. If you could confirm it was likely fresh water then I would want to fly in to see this in person to inspect. Some cars are cleaned up prior to making it to Copart - some owners are deluding themselves their precious-to-them car can be saved after immersion and try to recover it themselves. So the fact this looks good is a flag to consider - salt water immersion does leave salt marks as evidence even after cleaning. Expect to have a bunch of corroded electrical connections and have to replace pieces of it. Pump waxoyl through the chassis tube insides to flush out residual water - messy job but the chassis is definitely salvageable if you get to it early enough. Assume engine/gearbox/diff needs a rebuild as water contaminated the oil/lubricant. As with any project like this, if it is cheap enough then the project cost to bring it back is viable. But your title here is always going to be salvage - valuation impaired for ever more. So I would be playing this as a sum of the parts game and bidding accordingly (if it were me). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedwagon Posted November 26 Share Posted November 26 There are many good reasons why "flood " cares are totaled and unless this is unusual the car would have to be striped down to the frame and the rust inside neutralized or a new frame built or purchased. An then every other part not hermetically sealed opened and washed. I just recently looked at a 2016 Silverado and ran home fast because it had been in Florida. I took a s-10 two years old to the beach in Mexico with me and started home with a truck that needed a new top panel because I had just primed it, and not painted it. And fresh water is almost as bad. john PS it is worth 1/2 of what you can buy a slightly abused equivalent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalker LS3 Posted December 5 Share Posted December 5 Thought for flooded cars. Get a large bag to put the car in, yes they make them. Then run an extension cord into the bag along with a BIG dehumidifier and large fan. Monitor the water coming out of the dehumidifier and when next to nothing start the rebuild process. I want to get a fresh water flooded car and this is what I came up with. Also does anyone know if there is a test for salt water residue? Thanks Scott in Chattanooga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastg Posted December 5 Share Posted December 5 Johny Miller, think he was a Trans Am racer. Now runs trackside tires supplying track day and race tires. Great guy has a lot of tire knowledge. His track car is a c7 corvette, nice looking car. It has a yellow line about half way up the driver's door. That was the flood level, it's common for insurance adjusters to mark the cars. Graham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Croc Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 17 hours ago, Stalker LS3 said: Also does anyone know if there is a test for salt water residue? For salt water immersed cars, when you dry them out the water evaporates and the salt is left behind. There will always be salt residue wherever the water got to. Unfortunately you have to wipe/wash/flush the salt out with fresh water so that when the water evaporates there is no salt left. I have never heard of any other solution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalker LS3 Posted December 6 Share Posted December 6 6 hours ago, Croc said: For salt water immersed cars, when you dry them out the water evaporates and the salt is left behind. There will always be salt residue wherever the water got to. Unfortunately you have to wipe/wash/flush the salt out with fresh water so that when the water evaporates there is no salt left. I have never heard of any other solution I would consider a fresh water flood car but definitely not salt water. That is why asking about a salt test. Thanks Scott in Chattanooga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmustang Posted December 7 Share Posted December 7 On 12/5/2024 at 1:20 PM, Stalker LS3 said: Thought for flooded cars. Get a large bag to put the car in, yes they make them. Then run an extension cord into the bag along with a BIG dehumidifier and large fan. Monitor the water coming out of the dehumidifier and when next to nothing start the rebuild process. I want to get a fresh water flooded car and this is what I came up with. Also does anyone know if there is a test for salt water residue? Thanks Scott in Chattanooga Having spent my time in the northeast, also having owned a high production/volume body shop, who on occasion did AACA quality work, I've had more than my fair share of partial and full flood salvage cars in house, fresh and salt water alike. Most, like this, were specialty cars, Lotus, Porsche, vintage Mustangs, MGB's, TR6's Morgans, even a Rolls Royce (1951 if my memory serves me). With that said, there is no such thing as a fresh water flood car, why, simple, because by the time the water level has come up high enough to damage such a car, it has been contaminated with misc chemicals (oils, gas, acids, etc), along with biologicals (IE: think human feces, dead animals, and that is just the tip of that iceberg). So, if you really want to know how to decontaminate follow along here with my basic process: The following is a basic list, simplified as best I can for everyone to understand, there are a ton of small details in between what is listed below. 1: Safety first, heavy gloves, decontamination suit, medical grade respirator-----Why, you don't want to breath in anything in and around the car, nor do you want to cut yourself and potentially risk major infection 2: Large plastic bubble that you can drive the car in to 3: Ozone machine-(I recommend Estate 4000 from odorfree)----To kill all biologicals that want to kill you, it will take running it for 24 hours so that enough Ozone is built up in the space. If the car still smells after 24 hours, another 24 hours, or more may be required. You cannot rush this process 4: Once the car is basically decontaminated, now comes the real fun, disassembly, and cleaning of each part, interior first, followed by mechanicals, then the wiring harness. If the wiring harness has been immersed in water at all, pull it and throw it away. Again why, because water will wick into the harness if submerged longer than 5 minutes. Drying it out in the sun will only prolong the electrical issues for a day, week, few months before it rears it's ugly head in one way shape or form. 5: Now you have the car disassembled, seats and carpet have been pressure washed and ware baking in the sun, did you do the same with the shell of what you are working on, did you get in every nook and crevice, did you remember to put the car on a rotisserie and flip it over in every direction, flush it, drain it, flush it, drain, it, turn it, and start the process over and over, and over again. If you did not do this for at least a full 8-10 hour day, you are doing yourself and the car a disservice. 6: Ok, you've made it this far, are you having fun yet. 7: Now it's time to take inventory of what you still have that can be reused, time to open your wallet and spend money to replace everything that cannot be saved and reused (remember that wiring harness and switches in this equation)........ 8: Assembly time, well, maybe, are you sure you have everything you need, is everything safe to install? 9: reassembly is now under way, again, are you having fun yet. 10: Time to see if your hard work has paid off, attach a battery and turn the key 11: Well, how did you do? Salt water requires all of the same, but once the chassis has been stripped of all parts, requires immersion in a large tank at your local Redi-strip to neutralize the salt attacking the cars metal. Hope you find this helpful Bill S. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedwagon Posted December 7 Share Posted December 7 like I said "run like hel" and don't look back. and don't forget that there has been a lot of flooding in the past year. and snow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitfun Posted December 8 Author Share Posted December 8 Looks like it sold... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedwagon Posted Monday at 01:36 PM Share Posted Monday at 01:36 PM a total should sell for 30% of retail value (at best). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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