IamScotticus Posted July 24 Posted July 24 On 7/22/2025 at 8:09 PM, Ted7 said: When it dies, pushing the clutch pedal all the way restarts the engine (without turning the key in the ignition). In "dies", are you saying the engine has totally stopped, or is at a loss if power but is still running?
Ted7 Posted July 24 Author Posted July 24 1 hour ago, IamScotticus said: In "dies", are you saying the engine has totally stopped, or is at a loss if power but is still running? Completely off but restart without cranking it when depressing the clutch.
Croc Posted July 24 Posted July 24 20 hours ago, Ted7 said: It also happens under acceleration too. The only time it won't happen is if I'm at full stop. Apologies for the delay in responding, work got in the way yesterday. Your facts are slightly different to what was happening with mine. Mine would happen when I lifted off or was trailing the throttle or steady throttle. Engine would just cut but then auto restart itself if you depressed the clutch. It never happened at a full stop or wide open throttle. Car was up to temp. You have a SVT, Ford Oak ECU, T9 and probably the same Rocky Mountain wiring harness. It was only occasionally too - not every drive - so I never found it too annoying. I never truly worked out what was causing it but it went away after I did the following: - I had a wire to ECU that was "activated" by clutch depressing a switch in pedal box. No idea what it was but I removed it. Testing voltage revealed nothing - it was as if it were passive/dead circuit. - New coil - New ignition switch - went all over the wiring under the dash using conductive electrical "glue" on all connections to ensure they were not breaking connection under vibration Because I did it all at once I never knew which one of my actions was the true cure for my issue. 1 1
Davemk1 Posted July 24 Posted July 24 10 hours ago, Ted7 said: Completely off but restart without cranking it when depressing the clutch. I'm sorry to beat this dead horse but I want to be sure I fully understand. The engine will be running and then it will die so that there is no crank rotation at all. It will be completely still. Then you push in the clutch pedal and the starter activates and the engine starts running...and this without your touching the key in the ignition? Is that right? dave 1
FE07 Posted July 24 Posted July 24 I can't respond to the car cutting out and then starting with just the clutch. That's just bizarre! I can however tell you that I also have a Zetec powered Cat that has always idled high since I've had it. Both Chip Bond (the original builder with GT classics) and George Alderman looked at it and tried all kinds of things to figure out the idle issue. Changed the seals for the intake and injectors, swapped injectors, messed with the PCV system. We swapped the stock ECU for another one and it seemed better for a little while but then ultimately returned to idle around 2200. Sometimes it will go down to 800-1000 if the car is warmed up but it's not consistent. I just live with it. The cutoff though could be dangerous.
Vovchandr Posted July 24 Posted July 24 1 hour ago, Davemk1 said: I'm sorry to beat this dead horse but I want to be sure I fully understand. The engine will be running and then it will die so that there is no crank rotation at all. It will be completely still. Then you push in the clutch pedal and the starter activates and the engine starts running...and this without your touching the key in the ignition? Is that right? dave Indeed. It's a major difference. Here's a good partition. Next time this happens don't push the clutch in while youre still moving. Come to compete stop with dead engine and then push clutch in.
CarlB Posted July 24 Posted July 24 Someone already suggested looking at the grounding. I would agree with that and add. The battery ground should attach to the engine, and a comparable to battery cable ground wire should go from the engine to the frame. ECUs are grounded to the engine, and this is generally referred to as star grounding. Components move when the car is moving and something in the wiring is disconnecting.
MV8 Posted July 24 Posted July 24 Save time and your $100 to spend on a professional. They may top up the halogen fluid for free.
Ted7 Posted July 25 Author Posted July 25 3 hours ago, MV8 said: Save time and your $100 to spend on a professional. They may top up the halogen fluid for free. Professionals here don't want to touch this car. I went to a professional once who forgot to add oil and seized my engine.
Vovchandr Posted July 25 Posted July 25 3 hours ago, Ted7 said: Professionals here don't want to touch this car. I went to a professional once who forgot to add oil and seized my engine. Can you answer the question that many have asked. Does the engine starter restart when you push the clutch in or just just resumes running? It's a major difference. Starter restart is pretty crazy so it seems like your engine cuts out and disconnecting drivetrain/load brings it back to life. I'd buy a new crank position sensor or at least wiggle existing one. At idle grab car by roll cage and try shaking it to see if you can get it to fault. Stock ECU might even register fault codes.
MV8 Posted July 25 Posted July 25 (edited) 22 hours ago, Ted7 said: Professionals here don't want to touch this car. I went to a professional once who forgot to add oil and seized my engine. I have sympathy for your situation but I don't have an answer for you. You seem to be out of your element on this. Intermittent electrical can be a nightmare. Plenty of mechs in ATL. Edited July 25 by MV8
MV8 Posted July 26 Posted July 26 Look at the business model. Time is money. Shops that specialize in problems are rare. The most profitable are high volume common service where the techs do the same thing over and over again. Those techs may do side work on the weekend but not be competent to deal with your situation. I suggest a shop that specializes in electrical problems. It is a different skill set and most mechs tend to be good at electronics OR mechanics. Usually not both. Here is a place near you that should be willing and able. Keep in mind that replacing parts (flat rate) is often many times cheaper than rooting out intermittent problems (hourly rate). https://autoelectric-repair.com/
Vovchandr Posted July 26 Posted July 26 (edited) I spend close to $1500 in parts not counting my and friends labor troubleshooting my electrical issue when I reversed terminals on a battery. Turned out to be a well hidden 3.5a fuse. Your results may vary but I'd start by replacing cheap and easy to reach components such as crank/cam sensors and then start collecting more data to help partition it out. Still waiting to hear if it starter restarts from dead or just comes back alive as you're rolling. Edited July 26 by Vovchandr 1
Ted7 Posted July 28 Author Posted July 28 On 7/26/2025 at 4:44 AM, Vovchandr said: Still waiting to hear if it starter restarts from dead or just comes back alive as you're rolling. It restarts as I'm rolling as soon as I'm depressing the clutch. No need to release the clutch or turn the ignition key.
Vovchandr Posted July 28 Posted July 28 (edited) 8 hours ago, Ted7 said: It restarts as I'm rolling as soon as I'm depressing the clutch. No need to release the clutch or turn the ignition key. Can you please specify if it's a starter restart or the engine just coming back to life of sorts? If starter is involved then there's more questions to follow like what stops the starter signal if clutch starts it I have a feeling it's not a completely dead 0 rpm engine and starter is not involved. Can you to a complete stop next time before pressing the clutch? Does it still restart? Edited July 28 by Vovchandr
mrmustang Posted July 28 Posted July 28 (edited) 7 hours ago, Ted7 said: It restarts as I'm rolling as soon as I'm depressing the clutch. No need to release the clutch or turn the ignition key. Since you have not told us what year your Caterham is, whether it is LHD or RHD, and if it was converted from another drivetrain (like my 03 was 1 year after production) Engine recently rebuilt you say, I'm going with a bent, loose, or damaged pin in an electrical connection within your engine compartment while the engine was being reinstalled. Had a similar issue doing a 2.5L Ford Duratec conversion on a 2006 Miata 10 years ago. Ran great, fantastic even, then one day started having issues like you describe in your initial post. Took a month of working backwards in my spare time to come across it. If this is what it turns out to be, you can donate the $100 to a worthy charity of your choice. Bill Edited July 28 by mrmustang
Vovchandr Posted July 28 Posted July 28 (edited) 1 hour ago, mrmustang said: Since you have not told us what year your Caterham is, whether it is LHD or RHD, and if it was converted from another drivetrain (like my 03 was 1 year after production) Bill It appears to be a later 2000's build with new headilght mounts and later wheels but with LHD and left side exhaust. Late Zetec like a 2008? Edited July 28 by Vovchandr
Ted7 Posted July 28 Author Posted July 28 3 hours ago, Vovchandr said: Can you please specify if it's a starter restart or the engine just coming back to life of sorts? If starter is involved then there's more questions to follow like what stops the starter signal if clutch starts it I have a feeling it's not a completely dead 0 rpm engine and starter is not involved. Can you to a complete stop next time before pressing the clutch? Does it still restart? I push the clutch while it still rolling and it restarts. No starter involved. I don't go to a complete stop since I'm in gear. As soon as I press the clutch the engine restart on it's own, no turning the key, no starter noise, it just restarts. Believe me, in years and years of driving many type of different cars, I've never experienced this.
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