Questions on propshaft and exhaust when pulling Duratec engine + Mazda transmission

[hahuang65]

First, sorry for the flood of topics recently. Still trying to get my head around having to almost disassemble the entire car right after starting it up for the first time.

 

I've got everything out of the engine bay tonight. There are only 2 things left that I need to tackle before I can pull the engine.

 

1) I need to pull the propshaft out of the transmission. I thought I might be able to do that without having to undo the diff, but it's looking like I might have to. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for me to do it without removing the diff? (See pics)

 

2) Is there some way to pull and replace the engine without having to undo those TERRIBLE spring clamps for the exhaust collector? I've removed the rear of the exhaust, and undid the headers from the block. Currently the headers and the cat are resting on a box that's the correct height. Just pulling them out of the bay as far as I can doesn't seem to be quite enough.

[MV8]

Technique is important. Two, flat blade screwdrivers as long as body clearance allows and as thick as will still fit through the spring end. One enters the spring end/eye/hook with the tip against the exhaust  where the spring bracket attaches to the pipe (about an inch from the spring end along the exhaust in the direction of pull to release). The screwdriver is well placed when the screwdriver is perpendicular to the pipe and the spring is clears the bracket. There needs to be at least an inch between the screwdriver handle and the spring. The longer the screwdriver, the less the effort to pull the spring into this position.

 

The second screwdriver is used to lever off the exhaust to slide the spring along the first screwdriver toward the first screwdriver handle to clear the bracket. Easy-peazy, Bob's your uncle and all that....

 

Also, the newer cars are tighter in the tunnel with cross members that make dropping the shaft out impossible. You can leave it in place and bolted to the pinion, then when installing the drivetrain, position to where the trans is a couple inches too close but swinging on the hoist (lock/chock the wheels) so you can push the trans forward with your hand enough to get the slip yoke aligned. The weight swinging will help you engage. The pinion should be free to rotate to aid alignment.

 

 

Edited August 27 by MV8

[hahuang65]

4 hours ago, MV8 said:

You can leave it in place and bolted to the pinion,

 

Assuming this implies when pulling the engine, it'll just slip out when I inch it away?

[7Westfield]

2 hours ago, hahuang65 said:

Assuming this implies when pulling the engine, it'll just slip out when I inch it away?

yes

 

drain trans first, or you will have a big puddle when you tip the front up

[hahuang65]

11 minutes ago, 7Westfield said:

drain trans first,

How do I do this? I'm guessing right when the propshaft pops, have a pan under? 

 

I've got a drain plug, I can probably also just plug it at this point? 

[7Westfield]

it won't be a problem as long as the engine/trans is still level

issue is when you tilt the front of the assembly up to clear at the front

that yoke is probably about 4" long

 

if you have a drain plug in the trans, just drain it before you lift

no drain plug?  have a pan ready

amazing how far a quart of oil can spread on the floor

Edited August 27 by 7Westfield

[hahuang65]

3 minutes ago, 7Westfield said:

amazing how far a quart of oil can spread on the floor

I am aware...my drain pan didn't fit under the dry sump due to the jack stands...I used a funnel to get it to the drain pan...the funnel tipped on me when I wasn't paying attention. That was sucky.

[CBuff]

420 r with Miata 5 speed trans fluid

fill (there is a grommet into passenger footwell)

Drain

 

[EdWills]

Hi @hahuang65 

Just watched a few of your YouTube videos.

You keep your garage very clean and orderly for the build.  Any chance you can lower the camera (for a close up) when you take the engine out to investigate the fluid leak and show us what happened?    

Cheers Harold.

W.

[hahuang65]

1 minute ago, EdWills said:

Hi @hahuang65 

Just watched a few of your YouTube videos.

You keep your garage very clean and orderly for the build.  Any chance you can lower the camera (for a close up) when you take the engine out to investigate the fluid leak and show us what happened?    

Cheers Harold.

W.

Thank you! 

 

I probably won't take the time-lapse camera down, but I can take some video and photo with my phone. I promise to update you guys here at least

[hahuang65]

3 hours ago, CBuff said:

Drain

I have no idea why it didn't occur to me that there's a drain plug for the transmission. Maybe because there wasn't one for the coolant in the radiator...

 

This makes it so much easier than worrying about it leaking from the propshaft join.

 

I'm just gonna drain it from here into a catch can and then re-fill it when I'm ready.

[CBuff]

You usually want to make sure you can loosen the fill before you open the drain (in case you drain and realize you can’t refill). But if you’re pulling it it’s less than an issue. 

[hahuang65]

@CBuff lol is it actually possible to loosen and fill while the transmission is mounted??

[wemtd]

May not work for Caterham: but I've found best technique in Birkin is to remove all incidentals from engine, elevate the car (on lift, or horses/blocks, etc), place a nylon strap around engine at 4th cylinder(balance point) and using a chain hoist lower the engine/transmission combo down to a dolly. 

After a few times this is an easy one person task. Keeping the gearbox level avoids dumping gear oil out the tail shaft.

Enjoy se7ven ownership !

[hahuang65]

@wemtd thanks for the pointers. Pretty much doing this now. I've just drained the tranny fluid since I'm pulling the transmission anyways. Makes it a bit less messy when pulling. 

[wdb]

On 8/27/2025 at 4:28 AM, MV8 said:

Also, the newer cars are tighter in the tunnel with cross members that make dropping the shaft out impossible. You can leave it in place and bolted to the pinion, then when installing the drivetrain, position to where the trans is a couple inches too close but swinging on the hoist (lock/chock the wheels) so you can push the trans forward with your hand enough to get the slip yoke aligned. The weight swinging will help you engage. The pinion should be free to rotate to aid alignment.

 

Your description makes it sound easy. My brain tells me that it might be easy, or it might be an opportunity to learn new cuss words.

 

9 hours ago, wemtd said:

May not work for Caterham: but I've found best technique in Birkin is to remove all incidentals from engine, elevate the car (on lift, or horses/blocks, etc), place a nylon strap around engine at 4th cylinder(balance point) and using a chain hoist lower the engine/transmission combo down to a dolly. 

After a few times this is an easy one person task. Keeping the gearbox level avoids dumping gear oil out the tail shaft.

Enjoy se7ven ownership !

 

I just want to make sure @hahuang65 understood this. He's saying that you don't lift the engine/transmission, you lift the car and leave the engine/transmission in place. This is a compelling idea. You'd still have to get that driveshaft yoke out though.

[hahuang65]

7 minutes ago, wdb said:

you don't lift the engine/transmission, you lift the car and leave the engine/transmission in place. This is a compelling idea.

Understood. This may end up being an easier way to work on the engine and trans, but I certainly don't have the equipment for it. 

 

You're right that one would still need to figure out how to get the driveway yoke out. May end up needing to pull the diff in order to do so. Or lift the engine a bit anyway.

[MV8]

I always curse a bit, or at least talk to it. Seems to help.

Everything is easy once you've done it a few times. Hopefully not during a single repair.

In the end, Howard will have Popeye forearms and sailor etiquette.

 

[CBuff]

Yes you can drain and fill in place. The new builds have a grommet from the left (driver) footwell. Inside the cockpit.  If you have carpets it should just pull back to expose.  You will need to cut a plug out of the heat insulation but you can stick it back to the grommet to reapply and cover with heat tape for future removal.  Restick the carpet with temp spray stick. 
 

 

[hahuang65]

14 hours ago, wdb said:

you lift the car and leave the engine/transmission in place. This is a compelling idea.

 

Thought about this a bit more and I'm not sure this is possible. There's a crossbar almost right where the bellhousing joins the transmission that makes it impossible to drop through. Also, (at least in my case) the transmission tunnel is V shaped if you look at it straight from the nose of the car. The bottom is not wide enough for the transmission to drop through regardless.

 

This is why when I installed the engine, I had to make sure the transmission didn't go lower than the floor of the car, cuz you just cannot tilt it back up.