900 miles on the clock, list of items to look at

[hyper7]

So after LOG last weekend, the car now has over 900 miles on it...and I have a list of things to look at.  This thread is really just a collection of what I need to do.

 

Coolant smell - I'm sure there's a leak somewhere, hopefully just some clamps need tightened

 

Clunk when shifting/engaging drivetrain - quick Google give me a list of threads complaining about similar stuff, so maybe "normal"

 

Missing screw on engine cover - looks like it worked itself out and fell out at some point 

 

Buzz at certain rpms - I'm not worried about this one, I'm sure it's just a resonance issue

 

Idle bouncing between 1200 and 1800 rpms, need to do a little digging in that one

 

Handbrake light comes on in hard right turns - probably a wire issue

 

Three right most switches (defog, backfog lights, hazards) don't light up when lights are turned on, but do light up when they are flipped..

 

Lastly my wheel is very slightly off center by one spline.

 

 

 

Anybody got anything else I should once over while looking at stuff? I went through and retorqued a bunch of nuts before I left for the drive, and found a surprising number not quite as tight as I expected.

[hyper7]

Pics for fun 😁 

Edited September 12 by hyper7

[CBuff]

In my 420r new last year. 
radiator bobbin bolt jumped ship

engine cover bolt worked loose and missing. Put new ones in with loctite

 

i have a variety of buzzing and clunking. I think it’s normal.  
 

radiator econo plug came undone (fan didn’t turn on). Made some slack and zip tied together. 
 

900 miles. Oil change ?

 

recently I also caught that the fan belt was rubbing on an oil or coolant line. Zip tied line away from it. 

Edited September 12 by CBuff

[hyper7]

Thanks for adding your experiences! I wasn't planning an oil change until next season - I didn't remember there being any "break-in" notes in the build manual, is it recommended to do it early for the first one?

[IamScotticus]

19 hours ago, hyper7 said:

 

Coolant smell - I'm sure there's a leak somewhere, hopefully just some clamps need tightened

NORMAL

 

Clunk when shifting/engaging drivetrain - quick Google give me a list of threads complaining about similar stuff, so maybe "normal"

NORMAL

Missing screw on engine cover - looks like it worked itself out and fell out at some point 

NORMAL

Buzz at certain rpms - I'm not worried about this one, I'm sure it's just a resonance issue

NORMAL

Idle bouncing between 1200 and 1800 rpms, need to do a little digging in that one

NORMAL

Handbrake light comes on in hard right turns - probably a wire issue

NORMAL

Three right most switches (defog, backfog lights, hazards) don't light up when lights are turned on, but do light up when they are flipped..

NORMAL

Lastly my wheel is very slightly off center by one spline.

NORMAL

Heh, just kidding, sort of.

 

My contributions, FWIW...

 

Tightening hose clamps...

Headed for trouble.  Tightening these often leads to more problems because the ideal clamps are spring types that apply a constant clamping force while allowing the materials to expand and contract with temperatures and don't squish the juices out of the rubber.  Rubber isn't a fruit, but if you think of it as something soft that can dry out and become brittle, like a banana peel,  you can understand.  Get a pressure tester and try to find a leak.   The guage will show a leak down.  You don't always get a puddle on the ground.  Watch your coolant expansion tank levels.  Always suspect a bad tank cap as a culprit as these are cheap plastic parts and prone to fail.  Be careful around the plastic nipples and barbs as they break and consider the hose routing.  Secure hoses from bouncing around and rubbing on other things. 

 

This is not a car. It's an airplane on wheels.  There is no set it and forget it. Everything can vibrate loose.  Everything must be buttoned up, not too tight, and rechecked with use. 

 

Tightening fasteners tighter is not the way.  Using techniques to prevent walk-out is.  Lock washers, safety wire, tabs, and thread lock liquids should be used instead wrenching tighter on a fastener.  

 

Don't tell anyone,  but you have a race car.  Think like a pit crew.  Carroll Smith book here is good info.

https://www.carrollsmith.com/books/nutsbolts.html

Edited September 13 by IamScotticus

[CBuff]

I think it’s recommended to change oil after 500-1000 miles.  I did and had it tested.  Some break in metals were found (normal).  I’ve changed mine 3 times so far since last June.  About every 3k miles. 

[hyper7]

I did the oil analysis in my Evora and they told me 3000 was quicker than necessary - I'll send them my first couple and see what they recommend 

[slowdude]

Clunks, buzzes and rattles are normal. 

Smells are normal too. 

I like to think of it like a house, they settle over time until theyre just right, same with these cars.

 

Unless youre constantly refilling coolant or showing other signs of HGF. Just drive it. I tell myself this too.

[CBuff]

I happen to drive my car at night tonight.  Not sure if it’s correct but my three right switches also don’t light up with headlights.  Only when the function is switched on.  

[hyper7]

Seems incorrect to me. I haven't had a chance, but I'm going to pull some voltage/etc one of these days

[slowdude]

18 minutes ago, CBuff said:

I happen to drive my car at night tonight.  Not sure if it’s correct but my three right switches also don’t light up with headlights.  Only when the function is switched on.  

All of my lights on my dashboard light up with the lights on.

[11Budlite]

12 hours ago, CBuff said:

I happen to drive my car at night tonight.  Not sure if it’s correct but my three right switches also don’t light up with headlights.  Only when the function is switched on.  

 

That's the way mine is too. I looked into that issue when my car was completed and supposedly that's the way it's designed.

[hyper7]

That doesn't make sense...I had to pull out my phone flashlight to find the defogger switch.  Shouldnt be like that.  I'll see if I can figure out how to "fix" it, even if it's by design.  

[Vovchandr]

Yes a number of them stay dark unless on. 

[savagete2860]

Hey nice car! I saw you up at log44 I was there in the orange 420r at the autocross. I only signed up for the autox though so I missed the rest of the event unfortunately. 
 

I changed my oil at 1k miles and plan to change it again soon at a little over 2k miles before settling in to a normal longer interval. I think early changes are a good idea for a new motor, it’s probably going through more wear now than it will the rest of its life. Cheap insurance IMO.

 

I also had bolts disappear on the engine cover. I ended up just removing the cover. There are a lot of reports of that cover rubbing on coils and wires causing damage. My plan is to just put that cover on if I might end up in rain or I am washing the car only. Its worth checking to see of the coils and wires show signs of rubbing.

 

I would go through all the bolts mention in this video and also save it a do this every so often. The torque values are all in the owners manual for any he is missing.

 

[IamScotticus]

2 hours ago, savagete2860 said:

I think early changes are a good idea for a new motor, it’s probably going through more wear now than it will the rest of its life. Cheap insurance IMO

More true for the diff oil.

New engines are built like sewing machines now, not as much break-in as the old days. The diff deserves more attention and has a more restrictive break-in.  

[hyper7]

Thanks for the video @savagete2860 - I went ahead and put the suggestions into a google doc for easier reference - I need to convert Nm to murica freedom units and fill in the missing ones still (might go grab the build manual from the garage during this next work meeting..)

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xVaQPB7p7hupq6vaYoyDKtKSJfh_D52d3PYb4nHmbnA/edit?usp=drivesdk

[hyper7]

Finally up on the lift, found my coolant leak, not sure which connection it's coming from - but went ahead and tightened all 3 clamps in the line where I see yellow crust.  Still at the "min" mark on the tank, so just something to keep an eye on for now

Edited September 17 by hyper7

[MV8]

Use a deep socket and 1/4 drive to snug the clamps. I would expect to see slight indentation on the hose from the clamp band edge. If you need better clamps to fully tighten without stripping the clamp, I recommend Breeze brand clamps with a plated steel screw and stainless band. Order the size based on the outside diameter of the hose.

[Slonie]

Thanks for making the spreadsheet, @hyper7!

I'll wondering which (many? all?) of the fasteners are different on an imperial chassis, I'll let you know when I get around to doing this...