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No Driveshaft Loop!


MightyMike

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Mike,

 

I'm not sure when Birkin started installing driveshaft hoops, but the only cars I've seen them on from the factory were the IRS chassis. Your car would not have had them from the factory. From memory, I ended up bending some 1.5" x 3/16" steel around an old Lucas generator to form a hoop, and had it welded to the frame. Sorry I don't have any photos at work. Check out Dick Brink's website for some detail photos from a later IRS chassis: http://www.texasmotorworks7.com/webtemplate.aspx?IID=575025

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Curious about the Birkin relative to my caterham. Where's the "backbone" vertical bending stiffness of the chassis since it has no structural tunnel down the centerline? I guess its just the elbow-level side frames?

Why not put in a full tunnel while you're at it? Just a few extra tubes, and you're exposed already....

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Curious about the Birkin relative to my caterham. Where's the "backbone" vertical bending stiffness of the chassis since it has no structural tunnel down the centerline? I guess its just the elbow-level side frames?

Why not put in a full tunnel while you're at it? Just a few extra tubes, and you're exposed already....

i agree. every seven I had seen before (granted, not many), have a fully boxed center tunnel.

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Mighty, I'd build two pronto! One for each u-joint. Your probably better off building something VERY strong rather than buying a universal one from summit or elsewhere! Mostly because if these fail on a regular car, theres still lots of hard bits between the driveshaft and your soft bits! Not so on a 7...

 

Build them as close to the shaft as possible, that way if it fails they are contained and can only continue to spin, and not flail around.

 

I had the front u-joint EXPLODE on my R1 powered seven at the redline in 6th on a track! Thankfully no passenger, as it ripped through the 3/4" square tubing cage that surrounded it like nothing was there. Then smashed my fire extinguisher, and mangled my passenger side(left side, car is RHD) kirkey seat. The only thing that saved me was the mounts for my driver seat. I made them out of 1" square tube with 1/8" wall. Its what I had laying around in the garage when building them, and wow was that lucky. The 1" tubing was shaped like a banana, where the shaft hit it, and was then deflected to the other side.

 

On the new 7, the driveshaft loops are 1" round tube with 1/8" wall. Definately not something to take for granted in a 7.

 

Good luck and enjoy!

Paul

Edited by paulmpetrun
more info came to mind
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on mine, i have a 1" square tube .065 wall for the tunnel structure. there are two 3/8" plates with oblong holes near each end of the driveshaft. I'm pretty sure it won't tear through those. All my fuel, battery, brake lines are passed inside a steel channel along the length of the tunnel to protect them as well, and that steel channel sits on top left side of the tunnel, where it would stop any fragments flying up my way. yes, my car is heavy.

Edited by slngsht
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Per my reference books, in 1985 Caterham made extensive modifications with braced longitudinal tubes to the transmission tunnel to increase torsional stiffness. It is a bit more complex than two hoops but essentially serves the same purpose should the drivshaft go flying.

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Per my reference books, in 1985 Caterham made extensive modifications with braced longitudinal tubes to the transmission tunnel to increase torsional stiffness. It is a bit more complex than two hoops but essentially serves the same purpose should the drivshaft go flying.

 

Well,

http://www.californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/attachment.php?attachmentid=434&d=1213062216

 

http://www.californiacaterhamclub.com/chat/attachment.php?attachmentid=436&d=1213062216

 

The Caterham version may help but is obviously not perfect. The driver was lucky that the shaft escaped on the passenger side.

 

However, this is a 260 hp Cosworth engine with sequential transmission and very sticky tires, probably driven without clutch under race conditions.

 

I ended up weding a more substantial cage to my Birkin:

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_242PlvPtVpE/S4NHjiwciMI/AAAAAAAABWc/W93fs9idXFw/PropshaftPrison.jpg

 

Gert

Edited by slomove
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This photo is of the Caterham CSR chassis but the center tunnel is of the same design as the standard chassis. Triangulation is the important difference from a couple simple loops.

 

Any opinions as to whether loops should be added to this frame or would the frame itself would contain a failed driveshaft?

 

I'm wondering if I should loops them to my Caterham SV which is the same chassis except it has deDion rear suspension instead of the CSR's IRS.

 

Edit: I talked to Ben at Caterham USA and asked if any Caterhams came with driveshaft loops. He said the only ones were R400s with sequential transmissions. Those aren't a loop like we have been talking about but rather a steel plate with a hole for the drive shaft which is riveted to the transmission tunnel. Ben said the only Caterham driveshaft failure he had heard of was a 300 hp Cosworth with a sequential transmission. It didn't have the plate or loops and the chassis tunnel contained the driveshaft. It is the shock of clutchless shifts on the sequential transmissions that cause the U-joint failures.

 

I don't think I am too worried about a driveshaft failure on my car. Even with the quickest shifts I can manage, the sprung hub of the clutch disk will cushion the shock. I have an RX7 front U-joint and the stock Caterham rear U-joint connected by a high strength steel shaft.

 

I mentioned MightyMike's Birkin with no chassis tubes around the transmission or driveshaft and Ben said that the Series 2 Lotus 7s were that way and in fact the live axle Birkins were direct copies of the live axle Lotus 7s.

Edited by scannon
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Here is a drive shaft gard that you can have made up or you can make youself out of some scrap plate.

If you need to change the dimensions to fit your trans tunnel it is easy to do.

I would make two of them and place them so they are 2 inches aft and fwd of the universals containing the driveshaft.

Just my thoughts and hope this helps.

If you want a drawing for this to take to a shop and have made e-mail me and I will make one to your dimensions for you.

drive shaft guard.jpg

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FWIW,

 

Caterhams come with boxed in tunnels. That is one of the items that lead to a higher cost. Folis Jones did a really nice job boxing in the tunnel on his Birkin after seeing how well my Caterham is finished off. I would suggest you contact Folis n57fj@earthlink.net I am sure he can provide photos and is usually very willing to share information with another Sevener.

 

I agree with DeanG as to how clean your car seems to be. It must have been cared for.

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Any opinions as to whether loops should be added to this frame or would the frame itself would contain a failed driveshaft?

 

I'm wondering if I should loops them to my Caterham SV which is the same chassis except it has deDion rear suspension instead of the CSR's IRS.

 

Edit: I talked to Ben at Caterham USA and asked if any Caterhams came with driveshaft loops. He said the only ones were R400s with sequential transmissions. Those aren't a loop like we have been talking about but rather a steel plate with a hole for the drive shaft which is riveted to the transmission tunnel. Ben said the only Caterham driveshaft failure he had heard of was a 300 hp Cosworth with a sequential transmission. It didn't have the plate or loops and the chassis tunnel contained the driveshaft. It is the shock of clutchless shifts on the sequential transmissions that cause the U-joint failures.

 

I don't think I am too worried about a driveshaft failure on my car. Even with the quickest shifts I can manage, the sprung hub of the clutch disk will cushion the shock. I have an RX7 front U-joint and the stock Caterham rear U-joint connected by a high strength steel shaft.

 

I mentioned MightyMike's Birkin with no chassis tubes around the transmission or driveshaft and Ben said that the Series 2 Lotus 7s were that way and in fact the live axle Birkins were direct copies of the live axle Lotus 7s.

Skip, the tubes will not protect you. This is what can happen when the driveshaft lets go

 

http://www.gt40s.com/images/jensenfailure/failure4.JPG

 

Part of the problem is our square tubes are very thin gauge. The other problem is that when the driveshaft comes apart, the tunnel allows too much room for the driveshaft to whip around.

 

I think it's alright to not have one, but definitely don't think that the tubes will be adequate in protecting you.

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