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These are 10" wide x 40" long x 26" diameter. They are in good shape, what looks like damaged fiberglass is just stretch wrap that has decomposed. They came off of a Caterham with 13" wheels, mounts are for Caterham/Triumph uprights.

Beautiful car. Can you tell me more about it? Are those 14" wheels? Does it have harnesses or belts? LSD? Is the 6 speed a sequential? S3 or SV? I'm flying up to MI in a couple of weeks. If it hasn't sold, I'd like to stop by and check it out. I'm more in the market for a 360, but this is such a gorgeous car that I'm interested.

Yes, the headlight brackets align under the openings

Hello. My not long ago purchased 2014 360 seems to have a a failed LSD. This is based on louder and louder knocking noises and when I spin the wheels elevated on jack they do not spin together. The other does not move at all. I'm not looking for diagnosis support but what to do next. I've attached an article that states the 2010-2015s were cursed with this LSD. Caterham offers a Titan replacement but I don't want the same unit and the same problems in a few thousand miles. I'd rather replace with something better. I'd appreciate any assistance or knowledge particularly with those who have experienced this issue. Thanks. BMW Limited Slip Differential - A Titan(ic) Problem?.pdf

Do the headlamp brackets align under the openings?

Incidently, about a week after I ordered the nose cone from MSC, I received a message from Chris at Redline that he had a S-2 nosecone that he could send to me! So if anyone is in the market for a nose cone, check with Chris and perhaps his product would need no modifications.

Motorsports Composites nosecone: Thankyou Scott! I ordered a nose cone it from MSC. It fits quite well and the quality is good. I will need to make the following modifications: 1) cutout for the anti-sway bar 2) extend the skirt to fit the lower Dzus fasteners

Great first post; welcome to the forum!

FORD 2.3L T5 TRANSMISSION To PINTO 2.0L BELLHOUSING I’ve been wanting to build a Lotus 7 style car for some years now, but life hasn’t let me get started on the project as much as I would like. I have acquired an engine and transmission for the project, and I am in the process of a rebuild/refresh on both. It’s kind of a backwards way to start with the engine and transmission first but I happened to come across them at good prices. Hopefully in the near future I will be able to get started on a chassis or find one for sale if anyone has or knows of one. Engine. The engine I chose is the Ford OHC 2.0L 4cyl from a 1973 Pinto. Also called the 2.0L EAO engine from Ford of Germany. This engine was only used in the USA from 71-73 in the Ford Pinto. After that Ford only used it in Europe for a few decades more. Why this engine when there a many different and more modern engines to choose from? Its unique, kind of iconic for use in the Lotus 7 type cars, especially in the UK and it rolled off the assembly line the same year I was born. There is lots of info on the internet about this engine, so I won’t go into too much detail. I will however state that the 2.0L OHC is not the same and does not share parts with the later 2.3Lima and 2.0 that was used in ford rangers or mustangs. Particularly the bellhousing bolt pattern. The only manual transmission available for this engine was a 4 speed. Transmission. After 73 Ford went with the 2.3 Lima engines for the go to 4cyl. I believe because there was a big supply of 4spd transmissions, the 2.3 engines were made with a dual bolt pattern on later blocks, so the 4spd that was used in the early 2.0L will bolt up to 2.3 engines. There are differences in flywheels and clutches. I believe there are a few different 4spds used in the Pintos and Mustang IIs. For a transmission I knew I wanted something a little more modern, so I came across a deal for a T5 5spd from an 84 SVO Mustang. It’s a big upgrade from the old 4spds used in Pintos and Mustang IIs plus parts and spare transmissions are everywhere. The T5 from a Foxbody 2.3 will physically bolt up to the 2.0 block but only 4 of the 6 bellhousing bolts line up due to the different pattern. The top 2 bolt holes are much higher on a 2.3 bellhousing. The spacing of the input shaft length and the pilot bearing diameter all are the same and fit perfectly. 2.3l T5 : Uses a 9” clutch disc 1-1/16 x 10t spline. 2.0 Pinto 4spd: Uses 8.5” clutch disc 1” x 23t spline. There is aftermarket 8.5” clutches available with the same spline size as the T5. Throw-out bearing has a smaller I.D. than the T5 but the OD is identical and a T5 throw-out bearing fits the clutch fork of the 4spd. Since the T5 was never mated to the 4spd bellhousings and I wanted to have all 6 bolt holes mate up I looked at what was possible. There are a few different 5spd transmissions available and there are a few companies that make custom bellhousings, but everything must come from Europe and is quite costly. I think there is a company out of Australia that makes an adapter plate, but they do not ship out of Australia or New Zealand. After lots of thinking and searching I decided I would attempt to build my own adapter. After a few measurements I found the T5 bell to be about .440” taller than the 4spd bell. With that measurement I decided to use 12x12x 1/2” thick 6061 aluminum plate purchased from Amazon. This would mean that I’m adding .060 of distance from the engine when the transmission is mounted to the bellhousing. A non-issue The bellhousings are a registered fit from the bearing retainer so this first step is critical and must be held to a perfect tolerance. For this part I had access to a metal lathe and used a boring bar to get a precision fit to the T5 bearing retainer. I mounted the plate to the front of the transmission and used c-clamps to hold it in place. I then used a transfer punch to mark the holes to bolt it to the transmission. After the holes were marked I used a drill press to pilot drill then drill to size and tap for the M16x1.75 bolts used in the transmission. After the plate was mounted to transmission this is the way I came up with to register and mount the 4spd bellhousing. I used a scrap 2” 150#class pipe flange to make a stepped bushing. Again this was made using a metal lathe and the tolerance was held tightly. I turned the bushing to match the bore of the T5 bell and the bore of the 4spd bell. It was also clearanced to fit over the bearing retainer of the T5. This bushing remains in place with the adapter plate. I used the bushing to hold the 4spd bell in alignment with the plate. The T5 trans as installed in a mustang has about a 5deg cant towards the driver side. I chose to orient the 4spd bell to have zero cant in the transmission and then used a transfer punch to mark holes. The holes were drilled and tapped to M16x1.75 After the holes were tapped I mounted the plate back to the transmission and outlined where to cut. I used a jig saw with blades made specifically aluminum. It is helpful to take your time and go slow to prevent the blades from clogging up. Aluminum gets sticky when it gets hot. Also buy at least a 5 pack of blades. I used my oscillating belt sander to dress up the edges after cutting. Finished product with 4spd bell attached to a T5.

measuring the "length" just lay a tape along the center line end to end

wdb- Just received my kit from Newton. When UPS dropped it off (which literally took 3 days from England) they collected $34 which the driver told me were due to tarrifs? I don't know, could've been customs? It's likely to only get worse. Jim

I may have a set. I can send you dimensions tonight. Can you explain what you mean by "not long enough"? Are you measuring diameter?

When my pal Duane Johnson built the mid-engine Johnson-SAAB for us to autocross, i had the frame in my garage for a while. My neighbor came over to look at it. "Must be heavy, all that bar stock." "That's not bar stock. That's rectangular tubing." "Oh."

I'm looking for a new set for the Westfield. The current ones aren't really big enough for a 205/60-13 tire. Does anyone on this side of the pond make any? I looked at the ones from Kit Builders, they are not long enough. I need about 9-9 1/2 wide and 36 long. Not looking for carbon, they will be painted.

I assume Holley built the 5200 for Ford and GM because there was a buck to be made at the time Later on, some oval track groups used it as a spec carb---build what you want, but feed it thru a 5200 I can't see enough volume to justify production now

A pair of period Cosworth Ford PCF Weber intake manifolds - the chrome and intakes are in great condition •Price $250 for the pair •Shipping extra from USA Additionally a period aluminum Ford PCF valve/rocker cover in great shape •$160 shipping extra from USA

I looked at that first thing myself, and I'm going to disagree of your assessment of the bonnet angle. Cat nose heights vary from car to car, but my observation of Cat bonnet angles is they are nearly horizontal, especially on a DeDion. This requires some proof. The front bonnet height on my 96 is 6.25" and the and the scuttle is 9". A Lotus nose height is generally an inch shorter 5.25". The inch difference is more noticeable depending on the rear ride height which I believe S2s & 3s (live axles) ride ride higher in rear. With John's silhouette being perfectly horizontal, and to have the bonnet angle it does, is evident to me this is based on a S2 profile, or an artistic library has been taken. Regardless, I think the lines of the car are very good but the silhouette lines could be thicker or darker to pop better for smaller thumbs, etc. Yes it's a ridiculous argument. But it's fun.

Hi @Timothy Keith-Lucas as per the original post, not all proposals are in this thread, and the intent was to keep it open through April to give people time. There is no rush to reach a decision. If nothing else comes in over the next couple of weeks, or if the people who have privately indicated to me that they are working on something don't need the extra time, then I will consider ending it earlier than planned.

Have we exhausted ideas? If so, I vote for any of the near relatives of the original design proposed by JohnCh, such as this one: A risk in doing a group design is each person having a very specific favorite, such that no consensus is reached. I actually would prefer a slightly lower bonnet and wings, because it looks more Caterham than Lotus, and I own a 1962 S2. Perhaps someone with more investment in the organization than I have developed could propose a model that he/she thinks everyone could live with.

Had an issue with a bit, not much, of muffler/tail pipe, backfiring that is usually a lean condition. I know I am not lean so suspected something in the ignition system. I changed the plugs from the Denso Plats to NGK BCPR 7's and that seemed to fix the issue. Need the cooler plug with the 10.5-1 compression. Cooler day today but we'll see when it is hotter. Looking at the plugs I think # 1 was not working properly.... the residue was not the same as the others and the compression in that cylinder is excellent. I also lightened up that carb throat (idle) a tad that feeds that cylinder. Fun dialing this booger in. Had her up to 90 mph today, pulls great....90 mph in the 7 is like 150 in the Corvette. Same fun.

That R300 is on SLR wheels

Caterham Duratec vs K-Series vs V8 Mercedes DRAG RACES

I have the electronic ignition with a coil pack mounted where the dizzy was...thanks for the starting point.

The red cage needed to be removed. Then I had a very thin Tweezer for vinyl that I was able to disengage the clip, then pushed it out from the front using a piece of Tig filler wire. Put it all back together and it started right up.