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I looked a bit into it and the miata 1.6 has been crammed in a midget. It requires the transmission tunnel and footwells to be remade and a few other things but otherwise fits nicely. The MGB is a nice car too, and I'd settle for one of I could get ine for a good price.

Early pre-litigation Westfield Seven for sale in CT. Wire wheels, 1275cc, no price: https://www.bugeyeguys.com/2025/02/pocket-rocket/

Thanks MV8. Didn't even consider the washer thickness being a potential issue. I will definitely measure them upon dissy and when I'm doing the install. It tracked straight before so I shouldn't have to worry but I'll be aware of the possibility. I had planned on checking bump steer as well as corner-weighting too.

My first car was a Bugeye Sprite, and I had a '72 Midget when the Bugeye got totaled when a lady ran a stop sign. She said she never saw it! Great little cars, but they are tiny (much like a Seven). The 4AGE has been done before, but I think I would go with a 1.6L Miata motor like you said. Much easier to find than the 4AGE, and nobody wants to use the 1.6L in a tuned Miata because the 1.8L has a lot more potential and there's a lot more of them. I have a 1.6L Miata motor sitting in my basement out of '92 Miata with 150k miles. I haven't mic'd it yet but the crank looks like new. Still haven't decided what project car it's going to end up in but maybe I'll replicate my first car but with a modern drivetrain! Now if you go a bit larger to an MGB there is a ton more space for any kind of motor you'd want to put under the hood. Miata, Duratec, Ecotec, V6's, V8's have all been done, with lots of build threads for viewing. The later cars are already modified to take the Rover/Buick alum V8. Also a ton more space in the interior too. I owned a '64 MGB for almost 3 decades and drove it all the time. Check out: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/ http://www.britishv8.org/

I chased the ground wire back when I first saw how it was set up and found a secondary ground on the chassis already. Figured I'd duplicate what I saw, better to have too many grounds then not enough. The one I'll not be reinstalling is the extra ground wire for the daytime running light, which was missing it's bulb and clearly not being used. Hoping to have the new lights here tonight or tomorrow (says today by 7pm, I'm pessimistically optimistic), will fit in the housing to see if they will work, then go from there. Thanks again for your input and guidance Bill

I'm only here for the pretty pictures

I understood what you wanted to do. Don't bump or push the screw as your are tightening and it may work long term. Bad spot for a ground eye. I'd run it out the hole with the other wiring to ground on the chassis. The shell does not need to be grounded.

I can't think of any definite negatives. The toe link moves up and forward with front steer uprights but not much, so ackermann increases slightly and bumpsteer changes slightly. Not necessarily bad changes. washers out of the same bin can vary significantly in thickness, so have enough to stack to the same overall thickness for each side and position. Measure with a dial caliper. Cars are not precise either. If it pulls, try less caster on that side or more on the other.

This one is at my work. Pretty sure driven by a pretty high up person at a very large company.

That's not a bad option. I was more thinking the 1.6 Miata engine. There's tons of wrecked Miatas around I can get for cheap. From everything I've seen the engine is easy to wire up and I can swap to dual Webber carburetors. I really don't mind if I need to do a little bit of a cowel hood or a hood bulge in it either.

4AGE!

I don't want a big engine, just something a little more modern with a bit better power.

Yea, Moss has the stuff for those. https://mossmotors.com/ The AC Cobra and Sunbeam Tiger got big engines squeezed in and they're awesome. I still remember the Tiger I heard fire up years ago. Never forgot it.

I only critique tyre carrier colors

The dream is a MG midget or a Triumph GT6/ MGB GT. Any of them I'll settle for, but I am more interested in the midget. I'd probably settle for an MGB too. Basically the smaller the better. The midget I would likely keep stock for a while with just a webber carb and 5 speed triumph transmission swap until I get all the parts gathered to swap to a modern 4 cylinder and 6 speed transmission (probably a Miata engine still). That's a build I've had brewing in my brain since I discovered the MG midget in the hot wheels bin at the local M&W years ago. I fell in love with those tiny little cars but sadly have never been able to get my hands on one. I get the engine swap is ambitious, but it's doable. But I figured money would be better spent on one of those cars to drive and enjoy. It would be a nice car to put my MAC Tools monster tach in. The tach is probably too big for that car lol

It's a reasonable conclusion. What's the dream car? You're still more than welcome to hang out here and ask questions. Lots of "seasoned" car people here who don't mind shelling out advice. I personally still remember being in highschool with a Jeggs catalog circling all the things I wanted to put on my CRX with no rhyme or reason. My shop teacher at the time was smart and talked some sense into me. It appears I didn't need shiny hoses and an oil cooler (etc) on a stock 1.6 liter single over head cam motor.

Well I put some thought into it. As much as I would love to build a car from scratch, I just don't think a 7 is a good option for me with the assurance that it won't get finished. I'll stick to my original plan of buying my dream car and building it up with the parts I want as that will be a much more satisfying project to spend a few years perfecting. Thanks for the help.

This is plan "B" if the above does not work the way I want it to both are 15" in length, but will require a third hand from SWMBO in order to make it work.

Back last September I put together a photo book with few annotations to have on the coffee table and for occasions like the Euro Auto Festival (which BTW got postponed and now rescheduled). I used Mixbook.com and highly recommend them. As I was mindlessly leafing through it the other day I discovered a serious error: The reported final camber angles were missing the minus signs! Had the car been aligned to those values (1.5 and 1.6 deg) it would have resembled a flattened MG TA with loose wheel bearings. I wasn't going to have the book reprinted so I just added the minus signs with a fine black pen/marker and a ruler. Came out OK... But... what about my other documentation? To my horror, the error was propagated consistently in my build journal, my (manual) alignment data sheet, and in this thread! It's all fixed now (phew...), including in my edited post from Sep 7 2023. Quite surprised that no hawk-eyed member, not even @mrmustang or @IamScotticus, caught this. Or maybe you did but decided to be nice for a change and let it go... Cheers!

He's the real estate agent who listed the house I bought. He likes to use his cars in the photo shoots of his listings. The Delorean behind it was the one used for experior shots of my house. I've seen other listings of his using the Birkin. Definitely looks like a great asking price! I'm in the area if people out of the area want someone to take a look at it. I'm relatively new to 7s, have had my birkin about a year and a half now, but happy to give it a look if someone desires.

Just spotted this here in Portland, OR https://www.facebook.com/share/1JnFBa3u27/ 1991 Birkin with Kent motor, 4 sp and Right Hand Drive Price is right at $12k and looks to be pretty good shape.

This is what I had in mind when I was talking about using an epoxy to hold in place the nut, star washer, and ground wire while I tighten the lower housing screw in place. In theory, the epoxy will hold the nut to the point that the star washer bites into the housing and the nut, then allowing the nut to be tightened to factory specifications. I'm going to give it a shot, worse comes to worse, I did order a 15" needle nose plier set off Amazon in case I need to hold the nut while tightening it down. Bill

I'm going to be installing a wide-track kit and new springs/dampers as soon as my garage warms up a bit. I have recommended starting points for camber, caster, and toe. The recommended caster setting is "as much as possible". The following are the washer combinations that I found from this build thread: https://caterham420detailedbuildblog.co.uk/2019/11/03/front-lower-wishbone/ There are five possible combinations listed from most caster to the least caster. 4-0-4 More steering effort, more self centering / straight line stability 3-1-3 2-2-2 1-3-1 0-4-0 Less steering effort, less self centering / straight line stability I'm presently running the recommended 2-2-2 from the Ikea assy guide. So going to the max caster setting of 4-0-4 will increase steering effort, stability, and will also gain neg camber on the outside wheel during cornering. I've never felt that the steering effort was excessive even with the 260mm leather steering wheel that came stock, and I'm presently running a 280mm suede wheel. My question is, are there any other negative consequences to going to the 4-0-4 caster setting other than increased steering effort?

Bargain. Have you thought of trying to list it on BaT?

Can you post picture of radiator and cooler? I was debating on getting the joined unit for my 620R cone but not seeing anything on parts website for 400, just 420s.