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The sources are much appreciated. I especially like your modular design. I am hesitant to over engineer the electrics in my car and going modular would be a good way to modernize yet keep maintenance within reach of a future owner. The Cartek is very simple, highly reliable, and very affordable. I understand the attraction. I've looked at the AiM, Motec, Blink Marine, and MicroPDM PDMs as well. Motec is always a great choice. But with a MicroPDM I could easily afford to carry a spare. Tough choices. The integrated logging of the AiM boxes is interesting as I would like to look at improving the engine and charge cooling in this car and logging would be a big help.

Goodness, I thought I sent a response that I would love to have 2 of these and will send you the fees involved. Thanks again!

Thats a very nice offer! Somebody might take you up on it.

OMG! It went thru! Thanks for the help.

Not as cool as a steel one, but if you don't mind plastic, I'd be happy to print a couple and mail them to you.

Shouldnt be try this https://www.ebay.com/itm/176348066248

If you have access to a 3D printer, the .stl file can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:885858

Guess they are sold out

These? https://www.ebay.com/itm/176348066248

How do I get two of these very cool key chains? Thanks

Wow, I just left everyone hanging. I guess the siren call of the Elan was too strong. That is turning into a real rabbit hole. I have zero information on the seats. I've never seen any like them in any other Caterham. There's also a fiberglass race shell that is even more cramped than these seats. I doubt I'll ever use it, so if you have any interest let me know. I never did look for a spare tire bung. My tendency would be to cut the tire loop off altogether if I'm honest. As for the dry sump, there are more pictures earlier in this thread, plus there's a video on youtube showing everything pretty thoroughly. I'm happy to post specific stuff if you let me know what you are focusing on. Here's a funny story -- I may have accidentally bought a LSD for the Elan. A few years ago when I first got the 7 I was scouring eBay for stuff and came across what was being advertised as a "Cortina limited-slip differential". I bought it, thinking I could put it in the 7, assuming that everything in the 7 was Ford. Ooops. Well, now I have a car with a Ford rear, and the LSD might fit! I'm going to take it with me when I visit Don Butler for the strut tube replacement work. If you are planning a conversion I may have some stuff you can use. I'll put together a list and take some pictures. I assume your oil tank will be on the LH side somewhere, which would leave room on the RH side for the catch can I bought but can't use. I have some other bits too that might work for you.

It looks like this fuel pump, return, and fuel filler combo may bolt on to the existing opening in the tank. You could also add a one inch tall ring or bucket (with a small hole) around the bottom to help keep the return flow at the pump pickup. Hard to beat $110. 3003H14, .080" and rivets would work fine. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/RCI-7080A-Universal-12-Bolt-Fuel-Pump-Hanger,394949.html?utm_matchtype={match_type}&msclkid=1bb64d3ebc12168cbcfd2ab03d0f33fa&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SMI - Shopping (CSE) (Bing) (Brand Hybrid)&utm_term=1100310019383&utm_content=RCI (A7) Also it looks like some sort of vacuum canister in the right rear of the engine bay for the crankcase breather instead of a remote oil filter.

I decided to make some wall swag yesterday by tracing the Caterham font and the lotus logo from the '60s and 3D printing them. For scale, the Caterham letters are 4" tall and the spelled-out word is almost 50", whereas the Lotus logo is a bit smaller, with the ACBC portion 6.5" in diameter. I've included a couple of closeups to show the finish of both logos.

Hi, For material sources, I use the following. Most of my wire, flame retardant shrink sleeve, and environmental splices (expensive butt connectors that require a dedicated tool from Daniel’s), boots, lacing cord, etc comes from Aircraft Spruce. Race Spec has a great cross section of wire, connectors, fuse boxes, tools, etc in stock. Pro Wire USA has been my primary source for Deutsch connectors. Pegasus is a great general source for wire, PDM’s, and other supplies. McMaster-Carr takes a lot of my money too. Bel-Metric is my source for double crimp OEM-type double crimp spade connectors. https://www.aircraftspruce.com https://racespeconline.com https://www.prowireusa.com https://www.milspecwiring.com https://www.mcmaster.com https://belmetric.com/electrical/double-crimp-spade/ I chose to use two Cartek 4-circuit PDM’s for simplicity, sparing, and experience purposes. There’s a spare Cartek unit in my toolbox, if ever needed. I seriously considered using a Motec PDM15 or PDM30, but felt that it was overly complex for such a basic car. In retrospect, a programmable PDM would have simplified some of the more complex hard-wired circuits in the car, such as the interaction and isolation of the flasher and hazard circuits or the fuel pump power circuit that turns on with the ignition, but shuts off if oil pressure is below 4 psi (but can be bypassed for starting and includes a bypass warning lamp). I designed and built the harness as two subassemblies; (1) power distribution and dashboard and (2) chassis harness. With that architecture, it gives me the option to change to a completely different PDM system, by rebuilding the power distribution and dash harness. I first started using the Cartek units, years back, to build a simple power distribution circuit for a vintage race car (ignition, starter solenoid, fuel pump, and electric fan). All of that being said, I should buy a Motec or equivalent unit to play with. One benefit of the 4-circuit Cartek PDM is that they are the same footprint and bolt pattern as a Lucas 7FJ 4-circuit fuse box. Cartek doesn’t mention it in their instruction booklet, but I assume it was originally designed to replace the Lucas 7FJ unit. For fusing and power distribution of circuits in my car, there is a Lucas 7FJ mounted on the opposite side of each Cartek unit (if one looks under the dash, they see two classic style Lucas fuse boxes). As a functional example, one circuit on a Cartek PDM is for ignition and is ground side switch enabled by a dash mounted ignition switch. The Cartek unit acts as an ignition relay and 10A breaker for the circuit. The ignition output from the Cartek unit feeds into a Lucas 7FJ. I have 4 fused ignition circuits that feed from the 7FJ. I hope this helps, Dave

I'd like to put this out for considering by everyone, not pointed at anyone. No forum etiquette here..🫣 A 7 is a very fun car to drive with a <100hp engine, especially if kept light and the wheel widths within 4"-5". The live axle is perfect for this level of power and if not loaded with extra weight, as in a brace, is lighter than a de Dion suspension, and definitely the Standard 10 (I don't know the English axle weight). A good set of dampers, brake proportioning and sway bar can do wonders. Why push these axles to their limits? Why wear them out or risk breakage? Anyone wanting more power and grip should get a deDion car; there are plenty around and parts are still available. To back up my opinion, when I bought my 7, it came with a Zetec. I got rid of it and put in a Xflow partly because I had a live axle. But mostly because I love the old tech which doesn't need a laptop to dial in. Why is this reasoning important? It's to realize that a 7 is a small, light, and adorable car. We get into them for two reasons: to have a fun spirited blat and to get attention. Yes, it's very narcissistic. Also, ths car represents an important part of automobile history. The 7 is a 1%er car. Therefore, driving it, and keeping it within its limitations is very prudent to keep the 7 and you from damage. A live axle 7 should be kept under 100hp. You will enjoy it and it will last. And it probably doesn't require a brace.

My S2 7 was raced and most of the wiring was ripped out and since it was completely apart I figured it was best and easiest to rewire the whole thing. I wanted to stay pretty much original (Positive ground, Generator, Points/Condenser...) but avoid what I felt were some of the common problems. There are several wiring diagrams available, so I looked for the one that seemed to fit my car: no heater, cooling fan switch, mechanical fuel pump... A used MGB wiring harness from eBay cleaned up nicely and provided all the correct colored wire I wanted in adequate length and sizes. No burned or brown spots were found, and cutting off a few inches usually got to nice clean copper. All connectors (bullet and slide on) were replaced and soldered. I don't trust that cut, strip and crimp tool that comes in the box of crimp connectors! I grew up in the Keys and dealt with a lot of corrosion/connection problems, even soldered wires to bulbs a few times! I have never liked the way Lotus ran the headlight power through multiple switches. I planned to use upgraded headlights, so the headlight power was used to control fused relays situated close to the battery and saved adding an additional fuse block. Wiring a 7 is surprisingly simple once you set your mind to it. Particularly the early ones where most of the gauges are mechanical and there are few "accessories". Good Luck - Joe

That’s an interesting approach. Thank you, Ian

Here's how mine was done (likely when it lived in Australia), in the event it helps...

Update regarding the diff just spoke to the previous owner he says that the lsd has been upgraded and that the preload has been also adjusted thats the reason for the noise theres nothing to worry about.

Cant wait to drive it on track hopefully by next week's saturday event if i get it working 100% 1- yes thats the same location as mine what would be the operating temp? Online i saw that 200 is the idle temp but mine goes above and the thermostat is still closed 2- yup i do have the exact same waterline routing which i see is weird having the expansion tank below the the engine. Overflow coolant goes to the tank not sure how it goes back if needed. 3- should be correct 4- its stock didnt change the shims i do have 2 shims on each side. saw a video on youtube that replicates the exact same sound but its not that big i have it only when at the beginning on heavy load not all the time. Fast forward to 1:55

Thanks, Dave, for starting this thread. I am just now sourcing materials for a similar project. Could you share sources? My own experience was a 6 year career detour into professional sportscar racing. I started in data engineering and driver coaching and it later evolved into all manner of car electronics and harnessing. I still have my Daniels crimpers and other tools, but have found my parts sources are out of date. Recently, I've been using prowireusa.com as well as milspecwiring.com. I see you chose CarTek PDMs - I am curious why they were your preference. I don't see a fuse or breaker box in your pictures. What route did you choose for circuit protection? For anyone looking for a good background read, I recommend https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html.

@ianashdown Sending PM

You make a very good point on the safety of that style of reinforcement. I like the tube much better, but then again, safety was never a 7 strong point! I haven’t got to it yet, but I have some thoughts about cutting an access panel in the front of my original tank and fitting a custom made bladder, with foam. I feel the sloshing of fuel can be felt in a car this light. If there is any interest I’d be happy to see if a group buy could be arranged. I have a long term contact in the fuel cell business and years of experience designing fuel cells, pickup systems etc. We could also accommodate an internal collector tank with a high pressure pump for anyone running injection. Ian

It is the rectangular 8 gallon ATL sports cell like we always used for SCCA in other cars. But it is too big to fit in usual 7 place so we mounted it above the axle. Higher center of gravity of course. I think the custom ones can go behind axle but they are even more pricey. I was setting up to go D production racing but it took so long I felt too old for serious racing. Almost 80 now.