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The newer X model may be plug and play on the old harness and connector. Ask and check the installation doc for differences. Can always upgrade, buy a spare, and sell the complete old system. The Ford EDIS had a built-in limp home mode timing curve. Don't know about this one. Might ask them about that as well.

@CatManDo With the ignition off, checking at the dash between green/black and ground, I am seeing 0 V and actually getting 470 Ohms (tank is full now, so that might be right). With the ignition on, I am seeing 0.001 V (its repeatable positive and negative flipping the leads) and am seeing the 1.3 Mohms one way and no resistance with the leads flipped. I undid the zip ties at the back of the car to loosen the harnesses and connector at the tank. Struggling to get the connector apart because it's got a locking tooth on 3 sides So, no readings, but all the wires and colors are correct.

Lubricate all those spherical bearings (8). They all must rotate in the housings. Also make the housings lay flat when torquing the jamb nuts (housings should not be allowed to rotate to touch the nut/bolt head when torquing the jamb nuts), and lubricate the return springs (3, with one on two of the itbs). No need to add extra springs/pedal effort.

I'd like to have a spare...no longer made so would have to change out the wiring (that isn't that bad but...) Chances are slim but I thought I'd ask...thanks

Lotus 7 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1962-lotus-seven-9/?utm_source=Iterable&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=campaign_2648441

Alright. So on this topic,, BY10 and G9 should connect to “free” flat connectors under the dash. I haven’t looked at it yet but I remember seeing a few available zipped tied connectors in the past when attempting to mess around under with wires under the dash. These should be power. Special thanks toJosh from Rocky Mountain for this guidance. the BY3 and BY4 connector is for flat shift. Will need to connect the various pins to the ECU and may have to pull existing pins out and replace with those. Left is the rear switch. Need to connect the chassis rear green wires to that switch through a Deutsch plug. BUT … it will take a bit of time to see if all of this is working. After some regular engine TLC, I decided to upgrade my engine to a 2.3l with a short block from Esslinger, (just because I can’t let Simon win too easily .. although some of this forum would be quick to add that he would still win if he rode an e-bicycle around the track against most of us). Will keep current 2.3l ported head and valves (well enough for what I want to do) and probably change cams to match displacement aiming at 285 hp and 200 to 210 ft-lb of torque. With the Sadev, on a. s3 chassis, this will be mental enough and suspect that anything more than this will be fighting for traction …. More to come on this on a different thread

@Carz01 The first part of the season was great as we had it out once a week or more. I had planned to refresh the wiring harness this winter as it came to me with some damage from running higher current lights than the wiring could support. But my luck ran out and the harness began failing; so the winter project began in August. A few higher priority projects later (like learning how to program a Alfa TCT dual dry clutch gearbox), and the Rotus is still in the garage. But January is looking quiet and the car should be ready with fresh wiring and a fix for the trammeling well before the salt clears in spring. Thanks for asking...encouragement is always good.

I'm gonna try and resolve my throttle hang issue yet again, and find a replacement dipstick as mine broke off in August or September (somehow, it hung on and did not get lost in the bottom of my sump though!)

Not yet. It is winter here and the garage is cold, not a lot of work being done. Hard to get moving on replacing the switches as they all work, I just don't know for how long.

Jealous!! 15* and icey in Iowa🥶🥶🥶

I agree!

Hey @slowdude thanks for that. I’m assuming the heater is 1500w, I’ll have to try that and see how it works. I know it’s undersized, but hey, anything would help.

On its side. Wow I missed that...

sailing dinghy (without its mast obviously)

FOR SALE: WCM (World Class Motorsports) Ultralite Lotus Seven replica kit car. This is a Lotus Seven replica with an S2000 drivetrain. Engine: 240hp F20/22c from an S2000 (dynod at 195whp) Transmission: 6 spd manual from an S2000 ECU: Hondata Pro - dyno tuned to make ~195whp Rear-end: Subaru LSD with 4.11 ratio Brakes: Wilwood on all 4 corners, plus brake bias adjuster Wheels: 17" with 215 up front and 245 in back (Bridgestone RE71s) Suspension: QA1 (have stock shocks as well) Title: Clean California Title, Street Legal SB100 registration with no smog required. Tons of spares including a diff, alternator, original shocks, original ECU, valve cover, etc... Also Includes a lightweight open trailer so you can take it to the track or autocross. The trailer is a former heavy duty wave runner trailer converted with wood planks/ramps. I purchased this car from a fellow user (@rnr), which he and jrankin did a lot of 'sorting'. RNR had a blog series + various videos you can find from when he had it, detailing a lot of it's history. Since I've owned it (~8 years) I have done various maintenance tasks: -Car has been corner weighted for me (155) and alignment last done by Custom Alignment in mountain view -Pedal box was adjustable via slider mechanism, but is now bolted in place for safety. It's setup for somebody at least 5'7 - 6'0. One could easily revert this modification or adjust it for their set height -Head was rebuilt about a year into owning it, along with the baffled oil pan being installed -All spherical rod end links (aka heim joints) have been replaced a couple years back by trackspec in Fremont. If you ever look for a WCM this is one of those things that need major servicing -Fuel pump and filter replaced a couple months ago *Some notable changes from a stock WCM: custom cage, qa1 shocks, diff support, a/f gauge, shift light, baffled oil pan, lithium battery Selling because I don't drive it often and feel somebody else should get to enjoy it. It was originally supposed to be my track car, but haven't taken it to the track in many years. I would guess it's logged 100 miles (at best) in the past year, maybe 500 total since 2020. It does get started on a consistent basis and is put on a battery tender. $25,000 NO TRADES

If you are getting 1.M ohms it is definitely not connected to the tank. Try this: Check voltage between Green/black and ground at gauge connector with the gauge disconnected. Try it with key off and on. Voltage should be zero in both cases. If you read voltage let me know what you get. The Green/Black wire goes from the gauge connector through a large connector up under the dash in about the middle. It then goes straight back to the tank sender. We had one where two of the pins were swapped on the connector in the middle of the dash. The mystery unit by the tank is a fuel pump controller and has nothing to do with the gauge. It is straight out of Ford Focus and can be used to control fuel pressure but Caterham does not use this feature and leaves it at a constant pressure. You can also check continuity between Green/Black at the gauge and Green/Black at the connector under the left rear of the car that goes up to the controller. You should have continuity(zero ohms) there.

It’s really more like maintenance, but my 7 started running like crap all of a sudden. Connecting to the ECU revealed a TPS sensor fault. Once removed, it felt really “crunchy” when the internal disk was rotated with a screwdriver. It took a little sleuthing to find a proper replacement, but once I had on in hand and installed it my 7 fired right up like it used to, and showed no more TPS fault. It runs like a scalded cat again! A small victory, but I’ll gladly take it!

I thought I was a member. Must have missed the notice to renew. Only the two Caterhams I described were/are mine. I sold the yellow one to a gentleman on Cape Cod. It now has been passed on.

So, I checked the green/black to ground at the gauge and got a massive resistance of 1.2 Mohms. When I checked it at the track it was the expected 220 ohms for a partially full tank. I think the wire got mixed up somewhere. Any stops along the way? I know it goes into a mystery unit back by the tank (fuel pump relay?)

You should consider a membership, so you could display your car's image in your signature. Sounds comely. I looked at your album. I have a soft spot for those old TR3's and 4's. Were all those Caterhams yours at some point?

Cheapy oil office heater from a yardsale in the neighboring wealthy town for $10. Keeps the edge off the cold in the garage to work with a jacket on. Not great but a cheaper solution to colder weather.

Buy membership here. Post for 3-6 months here on speciality site. If no luck here revisit your price or post on Bring a Trailer. BaT has a long line of cars in front of you to be listed, so I'd hedge bets and post here while you wait for the queue at BaT.

Got close to 2500 on this year. Down from last but getting close to 50k miles on this thing for being 28 years old.

My first Caterham was a 1979 1600 Kent with twin Dellorto carbs, yellow with green center stripe. Current Caterham came to me all Ford Moonstone Blue. I have had the nose and fenders redone in Caterham Firecracker Yellow. This thread is for non-Sevens, but you can view an album of my Caterham stuff at https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/albums/72177720312826035/

Hey, great memories. I remember, at Watkins Glen, we were able to stand up right against the infield armco near the end of the long straight - no fencing or other barriers. The 1,000 hp Porsche 917's would rocket past so fast, we could not turn our heads quick enough to keep up. Your car is terrific, too. I also owned a Super Sprint with the Kent motor and dual two-throat Webers. The throttle response in that car was amazing. Once, a V8 TVR Tuscan came alongside on a boulevard, and wanted to race. His exhaust rattled my rear view mirror! The road was clear, so we both punched it. I was amazed - my Super Sprint dusted that car by a couple lengths. Mine was green with yellow center stripe - what about yours?