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Time to add more here. This is for new guys who may not know the difference between the two types of coolant tanks. This thread uses overflow, recovery, and pressure tank terms frequently without really explaining what is what. Recovery or Overflow tank: an open air vessel that holds coolant that is purged from under a radiator cap when the engine is hot and during pressure surges like hard accelerations. The cap and hose are usually located at the top of a radiator or on the head as part of a thermostat housing or swirl pot. The vessel holds the coolant until it gets pulled back in when the engine cools. There should be enough extra coolant kept in a recovery tank to ensure the hose doesn't pull in air. Expansion tank: a vessel that holds extra coolant in circulation under pressure. The hot coolant flows into it and pulls back when the engine cools. There is not a radiator cap, the radiator is typically sealed. The cap on the expansion tank regulates the pressure, but unlike the radiator cap, coolant does not flow through it, this cap stays above an air gap. Typically, a "closed" system expansion tank should be half full of coolant at all times, expanding with the temperature but not needing an overflow tank. Most road vehicles since the 90's will have this type of system with an input hose at the top of the vessel coming from the thermostat housing hot side, an output hose at the bottom going to the lower radiator hose or the cool side and an overflow hose at the filler neck that drains to the ground, if needed. For sporting applications, the overflow should be captured in a recovery tank to prevent spills and is usually a safety regulations requirement. Location, location, location. For open radiator cap systems, the height doesn't matter as air bubbles are purged out and vacuum pulls coolant back in. For closed expansion tank systems, the tank should be located where the tank cap can be the highest point for efficient air bubble egress. Above the highest coolant level in the engine or radiator. Regardless of which system you use, and why, realize that a failure of the cooling system can destroy your engine. Pressure caps are wear items and should not be expected to last forever. In a 7 where the coolant recovery tank is often located in front under the nose, it's not very visible. And even if you do see coolant in it, are you sure the cap is working? Choose the system that you can watch. I prefer a closed system because the level in the tank is the level in your whole system at all times and temperatures. If there is a loss happening, it will be more visible from an expansion tank mounted on the scuttle than a recovery tank under the nose. Can I use my current thermostat housing from Caterham for a closed sys? Yes, if you can fit a cap that is not an overflow pressure cap. The outlet barb should go to the top inlet barb on the expansion tank (not the overflow barb). On those pressure caps, only the lower seal holds pressure. The top seal has no guarantee of it. It's better to use a housing without a cap so you don't have a failure point. Also be aware of those housings elbows that have the vertical nipple , those nipples are glued in and have been known to come off. Some Formula Ford tracks don't allow them. The nipple can be replaced with a threadded brass barb.

Oatman was amazing. The whole time I was driving it, all I could think about was having a 7. I didn't miss the 7 for that stretch out into california - outside temp was close to 100 degrees. Did you run a half hood?

Would you share the contact info for your JC Taylor broker? i'm currently at $1,356/yr to insure my CSR at $68k and my 2007 Elise at $40k (probably need to raise the value).

I sent Josh my r400 as the Bimmer dif was toast and I just didn't feel like doing the work myself.... I always have but am at the point of let someone else do it if I think they'll do it right. Steve Perks (Tracsport) sent the LSD he built to Josh (40 lb. pre load 3.64 gears) directly whilst I sent the car. I also had the shocks changed back to the original adj. Bilstein's and the height set to fast road, and the toe/camber (when I bought the car both sets of shocks came with).... that is the same set up Josh uses on his 420r. I find the Bilstein's to be as firm on hard corners (round a bouts) as the Nitrons (but they were on their lowest setting...which is firm, can't imagine the high settings/track only). They replaced the accessory Gates belt and I bought 4 new wheels from Beachman Racing (thanks, Bruce, very quick and reasonable shipping). The car came with 4 8x13 wheels with a 185/55 mounted up front.... no bueno... I suspect the seller bunged a wheel and used what was available. Now properly shod. The Tracsport is much quieter and less 'clunky' than the old Bimmer...especially no high pitched whine and strange noises. On the road I'll never really test it at its limits and that's fine. I found Josh to be very helpful/informative and very fair in pricing. Ram Logistics (transport out of Phx, Az.) was also professional and very reasonable and have worked with Josh on numerous occasions. Being close didn't hurt either.

That was my assumption but wanted to ask..... easy to fix with the replacement... the newer ones are supposedly more stout.

From my non-automotive/industrial experience, if these sensors have an LED they typically pulse ON/OFF when triggered. If you're sure a metal object is passing through the viewing area, and you're getting nothing out, it's toast.

Yup that's why I'm feeling like 66k is too low now

$60k - even though it would I think it would take 80k+ to replicate now. Prices have gone way up.

So.... The WCM is moving on to a new owner..... Hopefully it will be as good a car for him as it was for me, just had to choose between wife or car, and since she does most everything around here for me, she won over the car.

I may need to raise the agreed value... 66 feels low now..

Hi, sorry I don’t get notifications for this. Yes 201 481 2635

I dropped Hagerty and went with JC Taylor. They require your other insurance (for normal cars) to have 50k per person and 100k per accident for medical and uninsured motorists (one tier over minimum coverage in CA) JC Taylor $288 a year in California agreed $35k for Xflow car.

Goddamn, what's your agreed value? Not looking forward to renewal next year if it's going to go up by 40%... Although it does seem like California (happened with my regular insurance a while ago)

No speedo ...the speedo has power and both the speedo and tach do the 'sweep' when the car is turned on. It shows the mileage and is lit. However, no speed indicated when driving and no odo change so suspect the sender. Jacked up, wheel off and properly adjusted to .625 mm from the wheel...the power on and the clear portion of the sender lights up where the wire enters the tube. Spin the hub and it remains lit, does not pulse..... I am assuming it should? Yes? If so then toast.

Got the r400 back today...much quieter ...you still hear the unit but no hi pitched whine...had the adj Bilstein's put back on...still very firm...really not that different than the Nitrones (on their softest setting) but more rebound, not as harsh. The speedo sensor died tho...probably from being removed/replaced...I understand the old models are rather prone to that. (2012 Duratec) so I've ordered one.

Well you guys better get your Shit together. 😆The Bosslady and I are planning on moving down to South - North Carolina in the coming year. When we do move I’ll be well up for meeting up with you guys. Really looking forward to the much longer, warmer driving season. The search is on for were exactly, closer to a beach the better…

Well, the saga did not end with the last post. Two weeks ago I went in for lumbar area back surgery and am happy to report that I am recovering well most days. Unfortunately, I have come to realize that at my advancing age that golf, hard-core race cars, astronomy with large equipment, motorcycles and even camping with a trailer are not the most advantageous activities for my old bones. So, up popped a nice fellow who had shown interest in buying the Stalker XL Classic and it went off with him in his 24" Pace trailer this afternoon. It was a bittersweet parting knowing that it was going to someone who is a former HPDE instructor and is used to high-performance driving. OTOH, it is a bit of a sad day because I have come to realize that some aspects of aging are encroaching on longstanding fun activities and I am having to accommodate the realities. I will continue to enjoy the wonderful people on this site but will be moving on to other adventures. I am excited to see what the future brings? Anaximander aka Bob

@Vovchandr is right. I got my insurance way before my title. All they needed was the VIN and asked me how I wanted the make and model written. My car is titled as an Assembled Vehicle in TX while my Insurance has it as a 2024 Caterham 420R. I'm only about halfway thru my 1st year of insurance. I'll let you guys know when I get my renewal notice what's changed.

I don't even understand how NY title makes any difference on it. It can be insured before ever being registered as anything the underlying covered item on agreed value doesn't change regardless of what you call it. Not saying it didn't happen to you but I just can't wrap my mind around the logic there.

I just renewed my hagerty policy. No change in price from the last two years. In NY it's $1130 (plus $70 for the club membership). For agreed value of $80K - 2023 420R. In new york it's titled and insured as a "custom" as when I originally did it with "Caterham" it was $2400. But all the back up was caterham stuff so I was transparent. They said, if NY titles it as a custom then thats what it is. A very rare occurrence that after jumping thru all the hoops, it saved me a little money

Just got my Hagerty renewal - premium went from $1046 to $1406. May have to shop around.

Wanting to buy or borrow spitfire rear hubs & associated brake parts for experimental fitting.

We're all doing a terrible job representing the southeast. The following is a proposal, all of these are editable -- click to sign in (free for life), make copies to change stuff. Overview: Blowing Rock -> Cherokee -> Asheville https://route7.austindavid.com/route/QlYEaMKAeTmv 1 day to gather, 2 days in the mountains, 1 day home. Day 1: go to Blowing Rock. Resorts are cheap during the week... or at least, they were in the "before times" when I used to travel a lot. Wilmington route for SENC: https://route7.austindavid.com/route/fro05kDTO8i6 Charleston route for me: https://route7.austindavid.com/route/DaxxB9cfN1zG Greenville route for uglyfast et al: https://route7.austindavid.com/route/DgsB6zLJjAh8 Day 2: ... is a lot of BRP still closed? https://www.nps.gov/blri/planyourvisit/roadclosures.htm -- seems to be some significant closure between blowing rock -> asheville. Blowing Rock -> Cherokee: https://route7.austindavid.com/route/9vPhadSdsw_U Day 3: Cherokee -> Asheville: https://route7.austindavid.com/route/MmF50JNmMRLf There's room for Deal's Gap in here. I've never driven it, I hear mixed things. Day 4: Asheville -> home Wilmington for SENC: https://route7.austindavid.com/route/-O6uPcRau8GP Charleston for me: https://route7.austindavid.com/route/rJ-0jxW25_N0 Again, just a proposal. I'm tired of working and tired of looking at my garage.

Thanks. But based on my ability to run over stuff that destroys the trailer fenders I don't think I want carbon ones. Maybe if someone is upgrading from fiberglass to carbon I could help them by buying their old ones...

Thanks John, I have Mintex 1144 pads front and rear as installed on the car when I purchased it. (2008 Roadsport S3 very low mileage). Once I get the master cylinder sorted, I intend to visit the front / rear bias as is the thread topic. Cheers!