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We drove Purple Reign (cracked fender and all) to our first event of the season yesterday and today. This marks the one year anniversary of the infamous "stop sign crash." It was on Sunday morning, May 4, 2025 that it happened. We left our home Saturday morning around 8:20 a.m. and it was very cold, only 1c but with bright sunshine. However, it quickly turned miserable with heavy cloud cover and the odd rain drop or ten. Around 1:00 p.m. that turned to ice pellets so we packed up and drove home. It is only a 12 minute drive. Even though the weather was lousy the show lot filled up quickly. By midmorning the vender areas were packed. Sunday was still cool reaching a high of around 8c but with clear, sunny skies. However, nobody showed up. I mean it was dead. There were never more than 25 cars in the show lot and no lineups to get into the flea market. Oh well, it's the Boot and Bonnet Club's spring Autojumble and Car Show this coming Saturday, May 9. Hopefully the fender will be repaired by then and the weather will be as sunny as today was but much warmer. (That’s my brother’s ’59 Corvette he calls Betty Boop beside us.)

I was filling up my Locost at a gas station one day and a guy came up behind me and said "I bet you get good gas mileage in that thing?". I said , without looking up, "Not the way I drive". I then turned around and it was a cop!!!!! Russ

Saw them again in a video I posted and it reminded me of this thread

Almost done and doing more shake down rides! Question for those of you in California - are there specific regulations for placement of the CHSML? I just installed the set from CaterLED - deciding between placing them on the roll bar vertically or placing them up top horizontally. Also - as I prep for SB100, any recommendations on which DMV and inspection locations? I’m in Fremont but happy to drive around the Bay Area if it simplifies thing. I’m assuming you need to tow the car for the CHP inspection?

No problem at all. And sorry for the delay in responding. We were traveling for a few days. I can wait until you come back. Have a good trip.

I placed an order with Burton Power last week for parts including a dry sump, differential, and some other odds and ends. The total bill with processing, duties and clearance fees with DHL was about 13.5% of the purchase price. Scott

Okay, you have to enlighten me, how did you come to find this thread again after four years?

I will admit, these have grown on me

He won a brand new Caterham! | Bridge Classic Cars

Entry Level Caterham Sevens

My r400 is off 1/4 tank...if it reads 3/4 it is full.... I'm told wonky, poorly adjusted senders are very common. I've never had the fuel overflow unless I didn't place the gas nozzle exactly right. Exactly right means I have to hold it and find a spot where it will run properly. The fuel injected models seem very touchy about that.

Went to a local Cars and Coffee with some fellow Tar Heel Sports Car Club members this morning. Good publicity for the club. Planning to get back into autocross so I joined again after a 25 year break.

Over the years its hard for anybody to follow, including myself. There's no self mapping option on Pectel but there was a major change when I towed it down to NC for TurboFocus to put it on the dyno and tune it. If I recall since last update I did the whole headgasket fix, adjustable cam gears installed and timed by tuner, cat converted removed and maybe a few other changes. Fuel pressure should still be spot on at 40. I'll follow your suggestion and do another health check with compression and leak down test, check for misfires with temperature gun again etc. I'm not expecting any solutions from the crowd but I do enjoy the audience for this adventure. Eventually if the timing is right maybe I'll just throw a towel and swap to another Zetec and new ECU for a fresh start or commit to cutting a hole on other side of the car and throw in the Duratec I have sitting.

I'm having trouble correlating your last two posts. Nearly 6 years ago, you wrote: Now you say: Did you make map changes in those intervening years, or does the Pectel have a self-mapping function that would have altered it without your intervention? If not, and if the supplied data is accurate, then something else has occurred to account for the significant drop in mpg; leaking injectors, fuel pressure has increased, TPS is out of adjustment, O2 sensor feeding the closed-loop mode has failed, compromised cylinder(s), etc. Changing the map to compensate for an unknown issue is just kicking the problem down the road. You need to identify the root cause(s).

Hello, Thank you @TheDreamer for pointing out this calculation error. The UK/US split is 16 cars for the UK and 7 for the US. I only have photos of my car in its garage, so they’re not very appealing, and none of the exhaust, but I’ll try to take some and post them sometime next week. All the best, Patrick

We need to know what zetec you have. Likely a contour one that's vct or similar and it's going to be different than a Ford focus one. I went through this issue when I did my clutch. The car came with a clutch from a focus as a spare but it didn't work with the existing flywheel and after swapping flywheel it didn't work with the existing starter so I had to do a full conversion at that point.

In your next-to last photo, it looks like your hinges might be too low. Photos can deceive. If you slap a yardstick against your trailer ramp and side it forward, does it hit your trailer floor? Put another way, does the yardstick strike the vertical surface at the back of the trailer? I believe if I put such a such a yardstick flat against my trailer ramp and pushed it forward, it would pass over (the beavertail portion of) my trailer floor. I'm not going out at midnight to check it.

I want to replace the starters in my 2 Sevens, but don't know what to ask for at the parts counter. The two starters look interchangeable. Do I need to ask for some sort of Merkur starter?

You beat me to it. I don't really need my Race Ramps for my Sevens, but I believe that's because my trailer has a beavertail. The nose cones of my Sevens easily clear my ramp. It is nicer to use them because it is smoother. The trailer belonging to savagete2860 appears have a flat floor. I originally bought the Race Ramps because my first trailer had a flat floor and I would catch something on the bottom of my wife's TR4. I originally solved this with Rhino Ramps under the back wheels of the tow vehicle, but that's a real pain. For the Elise I needed the Race Ramps not for high-centering but because the front overhang on my Elise would hit the trailer ramp before my front tires reached the ramp. The little flip-up wedge with the piano hinge on the end of the ramp did not help. I took off the wedge and the trailer ramp fits well in the notches in the Race Ramps. This also made my little winch work easier because instead of two planes to get up from street level to trailer level (trailer ramp + beavertail), I have three (Race Ramps + trailer ramp + beavertail). The inclination of the trailer ramp is reduced. Bonus is that the trailer ramp is easier to lift without the weight of the little flip-up wedge. I can toss the trailer ramp up with one hand and then use both hands to shove in a Race Ramp before the trailer ramp falls down again. For savagete2860, Race Ramps should eliminate the need for the little flip-up wedge with the piano hinge and solve the high-centering problem. I don't really need my Race Ramps for my Sevens, but I believe that's because my trailer has a beavertail.

Tank is spoken for. Will update if falls through.

Patrick, I think most of us have corresponded with Martin Phipps and received similar info re: HPC’s. But thank you for taking the time to correlate the EVO info which I did not have. (I’m still waiting to get a copy of Chris Rees’ book ver. 4) I found one error or typo in your post. 5. 16 models were produced for the UK, and 9 for the USA; 12 were built at the factory, and 11 were delivered as kits. 16+9=25 not 23. As to your exhaust system I’d be interested to see photos of it. I’ve seen photos of HPC’s with single, rear exit pipe in both the straight back exit on the left and the across the back exit on the right with added resonator. Photos of your car would be nice to see as well.

Where in the Bay Area. I'll be up in Belmont in two weeks and could be interested. tom

I bought a set of Race Ramps to lessen the angle so my car would not hang up when I loaded/unloaded it. They are light and work just fine.

Just replaced my tank and curious if anyone has a use for this. The baffle is loose in the bottom of the tank. Ran a whole track season like this, but it fuel starves in long left hand corners on track. Fine for street use, or if you have welding skills, you could repair it. Just pay shipping, or come pick it up.

The weather has been cold and wet the last few weeks which has been holding up trying out my new trailer. My Caterham's radiator also decided to spring a leak, as they apparently like to do. Because of that, I have not been able to load up my car on the random decent days. I managed to sort the radiator and figured I'd load up the trailer and see where I could get the tongue weight using a scale I bought. This is important not only to see if I can even get under 15% window for tongue weight but also to see where my payload capacity lands with a loaded trailer. After passengers and fuel, I only have ~970 lbs left for available payload with no trailer, tools, hitch, etc, so I am going to be cutting it close. I put the car on the trailer, near the rear, and lowered it onto the scale. Bam - 250 lbs! I was starting to think the scale they used at the trailer shop was wrong since it ranged from like 700 down to low/mid 600s depending on car position. I was pretty happy because I am aiming for 365-550lbs and with how far back the car was, that should be simple to hit. I pushed the car to the front of the trailer and lowered onto the scale again, not is at 200 lbs. Huh.. turns out MY scale, not the shop's scale, was a dud and wouldn't measure over 200 lbs. I am now waiting on a replacement scale to try this all again and I still don't know exactly how I will load the trailer up or what my available payload will be. Figured I would post some pictures of my almost complete tow setup. Here is the full setup after I bought the trailer. No car loaded. These are all from today... Also discover the bell housing/skid plate gets hung up on the ramp door with me in the car. It just clears when the car is completely unloaded though.