JohnCh

The Nodiz is replacing a 123 Ignition in the removed Stromberg engine. Unfortunately, that doesn't do logging, so you would need something dedicated. The data logging on the Nodiz is straightforward. ME makes several ECUs for injected cars, and use the same software across the board, which includes data logging. The big difference with the Nodiz is that a relatively recent update removed the native AFR logging functionality. Previously you could input the calibration chart that correlated output voltage to specific AFR values, and it would store the latter for the data logs. Now, it just logs the voltage. Apparently, the logs are easily exported to Excel and the conversion can be done there. Sadly, I'm probably at least a month away from trying that out.

Thanks for starting this and getting permission from Keith to post the docs. I'll add those to the Library later this week. I joined Keith's forum a couple of months ago and have been casually monitoring the email discussions, but I've been waiting to really dig into this topic until the new engine is finally installed in the Elan. I agree about adding a WBO2 sensor and have already wired in an AEM X-series and a Nodiz 3D ignition module from Motorsport Electronics. The data logging function will allow me to log rpm, throttle position, and AFR (actually the AEM voltage output, which I then need to convert into AFR). I'm hoping this should make things a little easier since it removes the guesswork of where and when it's rich or lean, and by how much.

Caterham's tolerances can make boot floor removal an arduous task on some cars. Count yourself lucky if you got yours out so quickly. As for any detriment to crash worthiness or structural rigidity, I'll defer to a mechanical engineer, but I struggle to see how the floor as fitted -- even after cutting in two -- will make a meaningful difference. It's not exactly a properly stressed panel given it's held in place by just seven #10 sheet metal screws fitted into holes with loose tolerances. I imagine any impact causing sufficient damage to the frame where that panel will help, will easily pop those screws out of the frame, rendering it a piece of floating honeycomb. That may still offer some piercing protection for the tank from above, but the fact it's now two pieces vs. one seems unlikely to make a difference in anything other than an edge case.

When you have the honeycomb removed, cut it into two pieces before refitting. That changes this process from a frustrating headache to a few minutes with a screwdriver the next time the floor needs to come out. Short write up of how I did mine here:

@williamwashere make sure you start a build thread. It becomes an invaluable resource down the road when performing repairs or maintenance and you either want to refresh your memory on how you tackled something or see a photo of what that area looked like when freshly assembled.

The end of an era. Hopefully CatKong will pass its final shakedown runs this summer and make it home to NJMP this year.

My feelings on this thread can best be summarized by this emoji:

@pethier, here's a practical guideline you can apply in the future. If your car was listed on Bring a Trailer, would they apply the "project" descriptor to it, or would it be considered a (completed) car? If the former, it goes in the Build forum, if the latter -- even if you are in a permanent upgrade cycle -- then it belongs here.

Morgan's username here and on CCC was Mopho. This link will take you to all his USA7s posts, and this link will take you to all his posts on CCC. I did find the thread where the car was tuned on Bisimoto's dyno: https://www.californiacaterhamclub.com/forum/caterham/events/1400-dyno-time. He picked up quite a bit of power that day.

I think it's Al's/Morgan's old car. If so, lots of history here and on the old CCC site.

Hmm... Perhaps that's why his car developed rust in that area?

I thought your car looked familiar. Was a former owner's name Morgan? If so, I can point you to some history on the car that you may not know about.

Do you know if you have a Pipercross or ITG? I've had to source my Pipercross sausage filters directly from them in the UK, but Pegasus in the US can supply the ITG filters.

MK also offer the Miata donor version set up to take the Honda K20 or K24 engines for those who want high horsepower without forced induction.

Someone needs to update their signature

They can trip from curb hopping. It's common enough that Caterham even sells a bypass plug. I have read of people relocating them to a more accessible location in the cockpit rather than disable them, which seems a more prudent choice. https://caterhamparts.co.uk/switches/7564-inertia-switch-bypass-plug.html

Did a 130 mile blat today with @Pokey.

Glad to hear you're okay. Hopefully the insurance company treats you well.

@pethier when you get a chance to look through the owners guide I linked to in the other thread, find the sub section under Fuel called Filling Difficulties. As per @Croc's guidance above, they state to fill it slowly and not to fully squeeze the handle. Their advice differs only in that they state not to rotate the nozzle. However, like Croc, I find a slight rotation is helpful when filling my car.

You're missing out on a lot of valuable information. Click the Library link at the top of the page, then look for the list of folders on the right. The number next to each one identifies the number of documents it contains. There are a number of CSR-specific files in both the "Caterham Build & User Guides" and "ECU & Electrical" folders.

I've updated the title to reflect the car is sold. If you've missed it, @Przemek started a thread on the car in the Members Rides section:

Have you checked the owners manual in the Library? The CSR 260 used 12:1 pistons, and doesn't have knock control, so I'd personally be more comfortable with 92 or 93, but it really comes down to how they set the ignition map. Given they sold that model in CA, where 91 is the highest available at normal gas stations, it might be ok. Hopefully an owner can chime in with real-world experience, rather than my speculation.

It's not. The pump is chain driven off the crank

You need to start a thread on how the 420R, 620S, and CSR 260 compare on track. #peerpressure

Both the CSR 200 and 260 used the 2.3L, which has a 13mm taller block than the 2.0L. To get the extra power for the 260, Cosworth used more aggressive cams, higher compression forged pistons, forged rods, head work, and roller barrels. Your comment about the visibly larger ports and throats is puzzling. I've researched this area a lot over the years, and the heads in both cars should be the same. The topic of Duratec heads is a little convoluted, so I'll share what I know based on that research and having had 2.0L, 2.3L, and 2.5L heads in my shop for comparison. If anyone has information that refutes the following, please jump in. The 2.0L and 2.3L heads are the same down to the casting numbers. Each was available in either a low port or a high port version The better flowing high port design, which refers to larger reshaped throats, was used in the 2.3L Focus, and various non-US 2.0L Fords, whereas the low port was used in the 2.3L Ranger, all US 2.0L, and some non-US 2.0L Fords. My understanding is that Caterham has always used the high port in their Duratec-powered cars. The only head that has visibly larger port openings — i.e. the opening that mates to the intake runners — is the 2.5L. They are taller, giving a more squarish shaped appearance than the more rectangular openings of the 2.0/2.3L. The first photo shows a stock 2.0L low port, and the second is the 2.5L.