JohnCh

@Outbound, it's good to hear you like the Zoom. I've been toying with buying that particular mirror and mounting it on the bottom of the windscreen to minimize the shaky view from vibration. Did you buy directly from them, or through one of their US retailers? If direct, do you recall the shipping charge?

Things happen a lot faster these days with the increased capacity of the new factory and supply chains operating normally. It took over 17 months for my kit to arrive after placing the order in 2021, and I know others who waited a few months longer.

I went through the same thing when choosing my color. I was interested in Roulette Green, an old optional Caterham color they could still produce as a custom order. My dealer (Beachman Racing) happened to have a period paint‑sample book with the actual chip. In person, the color was a stunning green with a gold pearl highlight; however, online photos ranged from dull green to almost gold with a green hue. Without seeing the physical sample, I’d never have known which photos were accurate. Doing a little research revealed that image‑compression algorithms can shift colors, especially in complex finishes like pearls and metallics. Because of this, if you have any doubts, I strongly recommend asking Caterham for a physical paint sample—even if they charge for it. It’s the only way to be confident in the final result. Another option: if Caterham will tell you the paint’s source (e.g., “Porsche Tobacco Metallic”), you may be able to buy a touch‑up jar in the U.S. for evaluation.

I wouldn't trust the dipstick unless the previous owner confirmed it's accurate. Raceline's installation instructions for the Zetec wet sump state to scribe the dipstick after the initial oil fill of 5L. However, because not all oil is drained during an oil change, adding 5L now will be too much. On my old Duratec with their wet sump (also 5L upon initial oil fill), a refill was about 4.5L when the oil was drained via the sump plug, and about 4.75L when siphoned out via the dipstick tube. Unless someone has the specifics for the Zetec, it's probably worth a call to Raceline to get their recommendation. -John

A recent dry day in the PNW.

Big shout out to @David Hansen for allowing me to volunteer him to look at the Birkin @Ropey, we need to find you a local S3 you can try on for size to see if that's an option. Any volunteers in the Seattle area?

My understanding is that when copying an image on some platforms (like Facebook), it doesn’t give you the actual image data. Instead, they often give you a tracking‑laden link because the image is wrapped in layers of markup and served through URLs designed for analytics and ad targeting. The workaround is to download the image and save locally. YMMV

I never installed my wipers but just checked them. If your measurements are correct, something is off. The overall length of my SV blades is just 8.25".

1996 Mitsuoka Zero One: https://www.duncanimports.com/used/Mitsuoka/1996-Mitsuoka-Zero-One-b2b69f130a0e09b109756ffaed3c0688.htm

The inconsistency in tariffs on UK sourced items is incredibly frustrating. In early December, FedEx delivered an aluminum radiator. I was never charged any tariffs or processing fees. In early January, UPS delivered an ECU. Again, no tariffs or charges. On January 19th, a package containing a crank pulley, sensor bracket, and distributor hole plug cleared customs, then subsequently went into the ether. After nearly 3 weeks FedEx declared it irretrievably lost, then sent me a bill for tariffs at a 35% rate plus a $15 processing fee. According to my research, the crank pulley (the expensive part) should have only been 2.5%, while the others should have been 25%. Perhaps there is a secret tariff upcharge for items you never receive?

As the former owner, I agree In the flesh, (fiberglass?) the color is a dead ringer for Porsche's Guards Red.

So does the S3 - the 620 engine is available in both versions - or are you positing you can work around the steering shaft interference issue in a LHD SV configuration? The extra bonnet space is the other reason I chose the SV. With all the custom engine installation work I did during my build, it came in handy. Although it may not have been strictly necessary, it undoubtedly made things less frustrating.

Here is a dimensioned comparison from Caterham. The SV wheelbase is also 3.15" longer, and the F&R tracks are 4.33" wider, while the boot and fuel tank are both slightly larger at 130 L versus 120 L and 41 L versus 36 L, respectively. To me, the SV drives bigger, but it is much easier to get in and out thanks to the lengthened door opening, and the footbox is much better for big feet. Although I prefer the dynamics of the S3, I went with the SV to cope with a deteriorating body and make touring a bit easier.

Just edit the title. I did it for you, so nothing else required.

Calling @DemoDan. He's in Tacoma and may be willing to show you his Birkin.

In 2006, I replaced a Spa Instruments combined tach/speedo in my Westfield with the original Motogadget Chronoclassic. Other than a reseal required in 2014 (condensation appeared behind the glass) it was still working flawlessly when I sold the car last June. It's a really nice bit of kit, and the newer Chronoclassic 2 you installed looks even better. I wired the yellow button on the steering wheel to control all the functions and programming, the latter of which was shockingly easy given it's a single button to dig through multiple menus. Surprisingly to me, it's much faster and easier to use than the multi-button interface in the AiM MXS I installed in the Caterham.

Congratulations @Dipdipdoubleflio (you need a shorter nickname ). I'd love to see it some time. I'll let you know if I make it down to Portland in the next few months.

That's a nice combination. And if desired, getting more power out of that engine is not hard. What is the current price for the kit with that drivetrain? Thanks, John

The SV Tillets are wider, but the S3 Tillets fit the SV chassis without mods. It comes down to the width you prefer. The image below shows the differences in width.

Given it's purple, you need to add at least one or two more coughs to that statement.

I am aware of two changes Raceline makes for the Caterham version: it reads Caterham not Raceline, and the front of the Raceline version overhangs the sides by about 1.5 inches, which creates mounting bosses used in some installations. You can see these in the picture I included earlier. These are removed from the Caterham version as they create interference issues with the chassis.

I believe Caterham transitioned from Titan to Raceline by 2010, so a 2012 R400 should be the Raceline unit. A picture of the sump should help us identify what you have, and if I need to suck it up and tell @Croc he was right.

It was fine. There are very few parts, and the torque values I didn't have, they provided on a phone call.

That's a huge improvement!

If your car doesn't have a third brake light added to the top of the roll bar, I strongly suggest adding one. There are several options available, including one produced by @das76 which has great reviews here and on BlatChat. Another worthwhile addition is a flashing module that will quickly flash the brakes upon initial application. I've used a few different brands in my cars and prefer to wire the module only to the third brake light. It's the optimal location for attention, and should the module ever fail, the other brake lights will still work. I have the Signal Dynamics Back Off on the Caterham, but am using this module on the Elise, which I prefer. Lots of programming options, very small form factor, and inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN983DCS?