JohnCh

@BruceBe, thanks for sharing this. Very helpful. I suspect the new model will make it easier for some to commit to an order given it removes the moving targets of exchange rates and shipping. Those aspects felt a bit like a lottery when I placed my order in early 2021 (hard to believe it's almost been 5 years). Have the lead times come down now that the new factory is operational?

Raceline doesn't have one. When I purchased my dry sump from them a few years ago, they sent me several pictures so I could figure out what went where.

Very impressive build! How long did it take? BTW a number of us also have rear or mid-engine cars -- or both -- so don't let engine location hold you back from sharing your other cars. Variety in a garage is important

@3-Pedals, I'm sure many here are interested in learning more about the car and seeing additional photos. Perhaps add on to this thread?

Caterham uses the Raceline dry sump here: https://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?categoryID=1 &SectionID=23 Raceline uses a modified internal pump that can both scavenge and pressure feed the engine. I've heard, but don't have irrefutable confirmation, that Ford cast an extra cavity in the pump to accommodate using it in various engine installations. Raceline then repurposes that second cavity to create a two-stage pump.

To avoid confusion for others, let me clarify. Club Members and Registered Users have no such restriction. Only people in the New User group have the limitation:

Thanks for confirming. Your original post, which wasn't approved because of a bad link, used language that made it sound like they weren't yours, hence my question. Good luck with the sale.

It looks like you and the eBay seller live in the same town. Are these yours/a friend's, or just a coincidence?

Sadly, I can't without screwing up all the subscription automation. I can, however, change his username. @Notable Enthusiast, er, I mean @CBuff, let me know if you'd like me to do that.

Don't worry, I saved it for you. I know how important maintaining that theme is to you while driving CatKong.

Hmm... kind of looks like AI to me

It looks like someone needs to update the car list in their signature.

Some of you may have noticed that the original post in this thread felt a bit off even though the link to the web scraper was legit. Croc and I agreed to keep the poster in moderation with PMs disabled while we played along and let things unfold. Given our early suspicions, we also felt it was a good opportunity for the community to see how these newer scams operate. Now that it’s been over a week since sacasajr last logged in, we’re comfortable closing this out, explaining the scam, and banning the account until the person inevitably returns under a new name. Scammers may be sleazy, but they're tenacious. This scam is more subtle than the usual “my friend has the part you want” PM routine that includes an unsolicited email address. Instead, the scammer posts something mildly technical -- interesting enough to spark discussion, but without presenting themselves as an expert. It’s essentially a slow‑play con designed to draw someone into asking questions. Once a PM exchange begins, the scammer positions themselves as helpful and knowledgeable, eventually slipping in a malicious link or some other scam tactic as the endgame. Hopefully this thread will encourage some of you to be more cautious when dealing with folks you don't know. And when in doubt, remember to ping me with your suspicions so I may investigate. -John

Agreed. I have two twin cams sitting in the garage and both oil pumps look like that.

A few months ago, Hagerty sent me an email about two of my cars insured with them, stating that based on current market trends, a valuation review shows they may be undervalued and recommended specific new valuations for each car. It's good marketing on their part as it prompts someone to increase their premiums, but it's nice to see they do stay on top of this aspect.

Other than an SV, what are you looking for? Is the car intended exclusively for track use or will it also see registered road use? Will you import it to Honduras, or do you have a place in the US?

I can tell you're not a wine snob. They wouldn't let glasses of red and white get that close together. It would feel too much like a virtual Rose. Now Croc on the other hand...

As I recall your car has a battery master switch on the side. If no electrical items (e.g. horn, hazards) are working, and you've confirmed your battery is putting out over 12v, then I'd start there given it controls the entire electrical system. You may have inadvertently jostled the switch while doing the other work, and it's no longer on. It's also possible the contacts failed after the key was left in position 2 for a long time, or that it was installed with an inline fuse that's blown. Easy things to test are: Turn the switch on and off a few times, then try starting the car again or check the horn or hazards. If still no luck, then With the switch on, check voltage between the battery and each of the main connections at the back of the switch (should be two studs with thick cables attached). If the voltage at each connection is essentially the same as what you measured across your battery earlier, then the switch is likely fine. But if there is a large difference in the readings, then you've found the issue. If they are different, please report back with the voltage measured across battery terminals, and the voltage measured at each of the two connections at the back of the switch. This will help narrow down if it's the switch itself or the leads between the switch and the battery.

Sorry, this is more of an accessible beer site than a snobby wine site.

Due to a proliferation of scammers registering on the site then sending PMs to other members in an attempt to scam them as outlined in this thread, the PM feature has been disabled for all individuals in the New User group. Previously, they were limited to one PM/day to minimize their reach, but more extreme measures are now required. New Users will continue to have their posts moderated until we are confident they are not here simply to take advantage of the community. If you are in the New User group and have an issue using the site that isn't addressed in the Help Guides, please either start a thread in the Issues & Help forum or use the Contact Us link located at the bottom of each page.

The correct measuring position for the front is the rearward A-am bolt, not the forward bolt. Also, I haven't seen any mention of setting the ride height with fuel and driver's weight in the car. If this was not done, your rear ride heights and rake will be far off. Regarding measured ride heights, keep in mind that people running the 13" wheels will have a different optimal front height due to the smaller tire diameter lowering that number when the A-arm angle is optimal. I have been advised by someone who sets up a lot of Caterhams that he finds a 2 deg downward rake on the lower front A-arm works best. Of course, if that results in too low a ride height for your road conditions, then adjust upwards and maintain that 15mm rake. From the 2015 build manual, when Caterham still used words rather than oversimplified IKEA diagrams: 5.9) Cars fitted with adjustable damper platform Cars fitted with adjustable damper platforms need to be adjusted to achieve the optimum ride height. This is done by lowering or raising the height of the platforms on the threaded sleeve. It is essential that this task is carried out on level ground. NOTE Lowering the platforms will decrease ride height, and raising the platforms will increase ride height. For the best results the ride height should be set with the driver in the car and fuel in the tank. 1. Start by adjusting the front dampers to achieve a minimum distance of 150 mm (this can be increased for road use to a maximum of 190 mm) between the ground and the bottom of the lower chassis rail, where the rear leg of the front lower wishbone exits the side of the car. This measurement should be the same on both sides with the car loaded. 2. Now adjust the rear dampers in the same manner to achieve a height 15 mm higher than the front, measured to the underside of the lower chassis rail immediately in front of the 'A' frame mounting point. NOTE Adjusting the rear may have an effect on the front therefore it is good practice to check between front and rear several times during adjustment 3. Once the desired ride heights have been set ensure that the platforms are locked together to avoid movement.

FYI the original poster attempted to scam several people here and his multiple accounts have been banned.

There's no back story, because it's not true I suspect they meant BlatChat.

I installed the Walbro GSS342.

Thanks. I was in a hurry and didn't pay attention to my typing. Fixed!