JohnCh

A long shot if you strike out here is to post something on https://www.ozclubbies.com.au/ It's a se7en forum based in that part of the world. Someone there may recognize it.

I've never seen the pleated style that covers both carbs, so can't help with a direct replacement. However, if no one recognizes it and you are open to similar filters that use one per carb, both the Dellorto Shop and Redline have some options that should work: https://www.dellortoshop.com/contents/en-us/d107_Airfilters_Shop.htm http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/air_filter_applications_by_carbu.htm Another, albeit more modern looking option, is the ITG JC40/25. It's the same height as your current filter, about 1/2" longer and 1" wider. They also do a sausage version in that size (JC40S/25) and sell blank baseplates that you can drill to fit: https://www.itgairfilters.com/products/jc40-small-twin-carburettor-filter-black-framed

The steering rack will need to be angled up slightly to create clearance between the steering shaft and alternator. Personally, I wouldn't worry about that now and would wait until the engine is in and you're installing the shaft. This way you can optimize the angle. I'm looking forward to following your progress! -John

Looks like that Weebly functionality is no longer working, which explains the lack of unsolicited stock tips over the past year. PM me here and I'll provide a working email address.

@GLBaxter, PM is fine.

@Geowiz did those links get you sorted, or do you need additional input?

I pondered this many years ago but ended up doing a Duratec swap when I rebuilt the car. After speaking with some knowledgeable crossflow tuners in the UK, the consensus was it's a lot of effort and expense for not much return unless the objective is to build a very high horsepower engine (alloy head, bigger valves, very hot cam, high compression forged pistons, etc). I was told the best upgrade was to move to a 3D timing setup which would make big improvements to drivability, mpg, and make a cam hotter than the Kent 234 not an issue for a street car. Of course, sometimes doing things like this are more for the challenge than the ROI. I believe kits are still available from the UK to do the conversion which will be worth investigating, if for no other reason than to understand all the parts required on the engine side. You will also need to convert the chassis. This I have done. It's not hard but there are a number of things to do. Big ticket items are converting the fuel plumbing to account for the high pressure, a return line, fuel filter, and a surge tank or modified fuel tank, and making changes to the electrical system to support the ECU, fuel pump, and various sensors on the engine. As for the ECU, I recommend going with something where they will either supply a crossflow starter map or you can get your hands on one from someone running that same setup. This will make things much faster and easier. Regarding your Webers, what troubles are you trying to overcome? Are these things that can be more easily addressed with a rebuild or jet changes?

Congratulations @mrwierdwrench! I'm looking forward to hearing how things progress.

It sounds more like Hognose than a Cobra. Those snakes also spread their necks when threatened but their venom isn't harmful to humans. I don't think you should call the car a Cobra if it isn't always trying to kill you.

Congrats @mrmustang! As for the weather, as long as it's dry, 39F is plenty warm for short get acquainted drive. Heck, the car even has a top! BTW moving this to the Members Rides forum.

A quick search in the Build forum returns several results that include pictures and advice on how to handle this: https://usa7s.net/ips/search/?q="heater cable"&quick=1&type=forums_topic&nodes=41&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy You will find a number of things in the manual that are wrong or lack significant clarity. If you haven't seen it, there are some good UK build blogs captured in this post and, of course, there are also a number of very good build threads here on the forum.

@Walshy7, hopefully someone will be along soon with measurements of the pedal box, or better yet, have a car you can try on for size. In addition to the size difference, the two chassis do drive a little differently. The SV has a 3" longer wheelbase and is 4" wider. To me, the S3 feels more like a slalom ski that likes short, quick turns, whereas the SV is more like a GS ski that, while still very agile, is not quite as eager (frenetic?), but is more stable in the higher speed stuff. I think part of that is psychological given the S3 feels far more intimate, but the SV's longer wheelbase and wider track do factor in. Neither approach is wrong; it's really down to personal preference. My preference is the S3 but I went with the SV because I wanted the extra room and bigger fuel tank for touring, and I was doing a number of modifications that would benefit from the extra under-bonnet space. As for the weight difference benefitting from extra power, Caterham claims a 55 lb delta. Assuming the power to weight ratio of 420R with a driver, that's only about an 8hp difference. You can pick up more than that by ordering it with roller barrels. I took a couple of measurements of the SV footbox. Not what you asked for, but they might come in handy if someone can provide the S3 dimensions for comparison. I had to use a tape measure to reach down there so these might be off by ~1/8" Width at the brake and clutch pedals (static): 12.75" Width at the throttle stop: 9.25"

As standard, R pack includes the Sadev, and S gets the 5 speed.

I'm in the garage so just took some measurements. Cars were measured with me in the car. Westfield with wet sump: 85mm Caterham with dry sump: 95mm Caterham at bellhousing (lowest point with a dry sump): 75mm On a Caterham with a wet sump the bottom of the sump is level with the bottom of the bellhousing, so I imagine a wet sump version will have about 75mm clearance at my ride height. Both cars are Duratecs and run 13" wheels and both ride heights were optimized for handling at recommended height settings. Other than speedbumps, I've never had an issue, and the Westfield has done over 14k miles of touring across some pretty vile stretches of tarmac in the middle of nowhere.

It is tapped. That is the access to the finger filter below the pump and can also be used to drain the sump. However, the port in that location on the dry sump pan is the input from the oil cooler and the extraction back to the tank is the port behind it. To use that pan you would still need to add an extra port and as @wdb indicates, you would need to reconfigure the pump to make it all work. Here are photos of the inside of both sumps that have been oriented the same way with the oil pump pickup in the upper right-hand corner (I don't have a good photo of my wet sump and am using a low-res version from Raceline's website.) As you can see from the configuration, there is a lot more to a dry sump pan. Bottom line, that wet sump was not intended to be used for either configuration.

Is there such a thing? The Raceline/Caterham wet sump certainly isn't set up that way. A key factor in a dry sump is that no oil is stored below the crank, hence the word "dry". A Wet sump is much deeper and stores the oil reserve, hence "wet." That sump also has no provisions for the hoses to and from the external tank. The finger filer on both the Raceline wet and dry sump is positioned directly below the oil pump and screens larger particles from entering and destroying it. The Raceline/Caterham dry sump uses only this one pump. 6.5 liters sounds like a lot of oil for that sump. Raceline recommends 5 Liters upon first fill and 4.5 - 4.75 liters on oil changes. They also recommend marking the dipstick upon first fill of 5 liters to calibrate it. I'm assuming (I know, I know) that Caterham provides a calibrated dipstick on a new car, but there is the possibility that your dipstick was replaced at some point with the Ford item, or perhaps it's not seating properly in the tube.

Yes, current Caterhams use a 50.8mm PCD.

I think the "m" word you were looking for is masochist

I finally got around to addressing a couple of issues lingering from the build that required scuttle removal. First was installing the remote button interface for the AiM which includes a shortcut to reset the trip odometer with a single push of a dedicated momentary switch. Without this, resetting involves no fewer than four buttons on the sides of the AiM and a total of eight button pushes: six to reset the odometer, and two to return to the gauges screen. My stops for fuel will now be seven button pushes quicker. The other issue was heated seats that have never worked. Each seat has a dedicated relay controlled by an On-Off-On switch. A master relay controlled by the ECU, then feeds power to both seat relays but only while the engine is running. Caterham told me they do this to prevent someone unintentionally draining the battery while parked. Their instructions were to assign Pin 25 to Shift Light 2, then have it switch on (connect to ground) when the engine is over 800rpm and off when revs fall below 750rpm. Simple. SBD opted to configure this slightly differently on my custom map, assigning Pin 25 to Shift Light (not SL2) and setting the on/off rpm to 800/500. When troubleshooting, my initial assumption was that something in the wiring was wonky. However, there is continuity from Pin 25 to the coil on the master relay and shorting that wire to ground triggers the relay and allows the seats to work. Hmm... Checking the map showed that Pin 25 was assigned to Shift Light and Shift Light set to go on/off at the revised rpm points. I didn't see anything else to tweak, but did contact SBD and sent them screenshots of the relevant screens to ask. With the holidays, however, I don't expect to hear back soon and opted to go a different direction. Given I can't imagine a scenario where I will sit in the car with the key at position 2, the engine off, and the seats on, I decided to simplify and bypass the master relay with a jumper wire. The photo below shows the backs of the three relay sockets bolted to the fire wall, with the master relay in the middle. The jumper connects pins 30 and 87. Now the seats work perfectly.

Thanks for starting the thread. I'm looking forward to following your progress!

"No engine. Pink slip in hand. As is condition. Need restoration." Master of the Understatement?

Looking forward to seeing the progress! Do you have an idea of when the kit will leave the UK? BTW EVO recently did short review of the GBS. It sounds like a lot of car for the money. https://www.evo.co.uk/track-cars/207390/gbs-zero-review-a-convincing-caterham-alternative

The fourth wire is probably for the light. I forgot about that earlier: ground, signal, 12v+ gauge, 12v+ light when side/headlights are on (probably white/red). Is one of the wires green/black? According to my notes, that is the signal wire. As for what you should see at the gauge end, it should be the same ohms reading you took off the sender, but it might require the ignition on to register. I repurposed the signal wire for my setup, but it is a voltage based (0-5v) sender. That signal was not changed along the way. This tells me there isn't any Caterham magic happening between the sender and gauge, but @CatManDo could confirm based on the work he and Bruce did for the fuel gauge fix.

Hi @Randy Flowers, I'm sorry to hear you need to sell your car. This thread asking for advice on how to do so is fine; however, only paid club members may post an ad on the site. A post like this that includes a number of photos of the car strays too close into ad territory, so I have deleted them. As I've explained here many times in the past, allowing people to do end arounds -- even if that is not the intent -- isn't fair to the other individuals who join specifically so they can sell their car. -John

One thing I discovered after removing the sump to reseal a leak is that a fair amount of oil is left over when draining via the ports. I switched to an oil extraction pump which does a better job of removing all the oil. You definitely have a wet sump. The dry sump pan is quite different, and as you note, it would need a separate tank. The initial listing for your car also mentioned it had a catalytic converter, but the pictures show it is fitted with the cat-bypass pipe. I suspect the previous owner didn't really know very much about these cars. There are a lot of very knowledgeable people on the forum; don't hesitate to ask questions as you begin to learn your car. In return, you do need to post photos of the car with the under-body LEDs illuminated. I have never heard of those before on any type of se7en